CW9 Magazine/Grip Question

[jwr]

Does Kahr, or anyone else, make a flush fit magazine for the CW9?

I notice with all my small pistols, not just the CW9, that the grip is the hardest part to conceal, and after wearing the CW9 for a few days now I'm finding that the magazine protruding from the grip just makes it a little harder.

I've seen the "covert" mod that's been done to CW9's and think it looks pretty cool but I'm not ready to take a bandsaw to my brand new gun yet :-)

[coop]

i second this question :)

[wyntrout]

Not cheap, but parts available at Kahr:
Magazines:
KAHR ARMS ONLINE SHOP (http://www.kahrshop.com/index2.asp?cate=acc&model=mags)
Parts singly:
http://www.kahrshop.com/cgi-bin/parts.asp
Metal baseplate "kit", this is what you need:
KAHR ARMS ONLINE SHOP (http://www.kahrshop.com/index2.asp?cate=acc&model=mags)

The metal baseplate will fit your regular "finger grip" mags, but the reverse is not true. I tried adding a finger grip one to my PM9 flush fitting -- won't insert fully -- not good!

Wynn

[jwr]

Not cheap, but parts available at Kahr:
Magazines:
KAHR ARMS ONLINE SHOP (http://www.kahrshop.com/index2.asp?cate=acc&model=mags)
Parts singly:
http://www.kahrshop.com/cgi-bin/parts.asp
Metal baseplate "kit", this is what you need:
KAHR ARMS ONLINE SHOP (http://www.kahrshop.com/index2.asp?cate=acc&model=mags)

The metal baseplate will fit your regular "finger grip" mags, but the reverse is not true. I tried adding a finger grip one to my PM9 flush fitting -- won't insert fully -- not good!

Wynn
Thanks for the info! Kahr makes it tough to copy links from their site but I think this is the baseplate you're referring to right?
Steel Magazine Base Kit (9 mm and .40 S&W) (http://www.kahrshop.com/cgi-bin/itemdetail.asp?itmid=2066)

Does anyone have a photo of their CW9 with the metal baseplate? I'm just wondering how far it still sticks out or if it does actually make it flush.

Wynn, thanks again for the info!

[wyntrout]

Yes, just make sure you select the correct caliber. You can click on the links in posts to go there and then copy the link from the address window of your browser.
Wynn

[ripley16]

I'm just wondering how far it still sticks out or if it does actually make it flush.

Take the base off of a mag and insert it in your CW9...that's how far it will stick out, plus the thin base plate of course, maybe a mm more. It won't be flush, that's for sure.

[jwr]

Take the base off of a mag and insert it in your CW9...that's how far it will stick out, plus the thin base plate of course, maybe a mm more. It won't be flush, that's for sure.
Yeah, I tried that but without the spring and follower in the mag it's hard to tell how far it will be forced out.

With no spring in the mag you can push it up so it looks almost flush but I imagine the spring will force it back down--at least 3/16" or so. That's why I was wondering if anyone had a photo.

Thanks!

[500KV]

I tried a metal baseplate on my CW9 but the gap that resulted was just enough for part of my pinkie to get in there resulting in a blood blister.
I really didn't gain any grip size advantage with it installed either, but YMMV.
I used a baseplate from my PM9, same size.

[jwr]

I tried a metal baseplate on my CW9 but the gap that resulted was just enough for part of my pinkie to get in there resulting in a blood blister.
I really didn't gain any grip size advantage with it installed either, but YMMV.
I used a baseplate from my PM9, same size.
Thanks for the info! I was afraid it would be something like you described with the magazine protruding just enough to be a pain (in your case literally).

I guess you would have to sacrifice 1 round in capacity and build an entirely new magazine to get a true flush fit. I could be wrong though--it happens with amazing frequency :-)

[jeep45238]

Try rotating the gun slightly forward on your belt - and buy a gun belt and good holster if you're currently using a Walmart leather belt and an Uncle Mike's holster.

The pad makes reloads much more reliable in regards to getting the mag seated into the gun (especially with the gun in battery). It also provides something to grab onto to rip the magazine out of the grip if it doesn't fall out under gravity.

The pad won't give you away without the rest of the grip also giving you away. Also think about this - the only people that will really notice a little bump of a baseplate are ALSO carrying guns - carry on and live with life.

[jwr]

Try rotating the gun slightly forward on your belt - and buy a gun belt and good holster if you're currently using a Walmart leather belt and an Uncle Mike's holster.
I have a good belt and just ordered a Don Hume 715 for it (I've been carrying it in a 715 made for a slightly larger pistol). Unfortunately the forward cant isn't that adjustable with this holster but I can push it forward a bit.

Up to now my small carry gun has been a P238 and when you compare it to a CW9 the CW9's grip is about 1/2" longer and when you factor in the magazine it's about 3/4" longer.

I understand the arguments for the longer magazine--easier to handle, better grip, additional capacity, but I'd still like the option of the flush fit magazine--like the one on my P238. To me it would be a nice compromise between the shorter grip on the PM9 and the *extended* look of the stock CW9.

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn69/jerrywrussell/grip-100.jpg

[jeep45238]

I understand what you're saying - but realize that you must be willing to dress around the gun, and find a proper gear setup for your body and gear.

The adjustability, security, and stability of this holster:

Inside Waistband Holsters - Minotaur Holsters - products new home - Minotaur MTAC Holster (http://www.comp-tac.com/product_info.php?products_id=95&osCsid=b97k5dpjfu8rouu5at7a5n7391)

and the support of this belt:
The Original Instructor Belt? Testing Results | Wilderness Tactical Products, LLC (http://www.thewilderness.com/original-instructor-belt-testing-results)

It's really, really improved what I carry, and how well it carries.

I generally carry a government model 1911, without a single problem by weight or printing - a button up shirt left open (plaid preferably), sure does help, though I definitely don't have an issue with a normal t-shirt. I carry a T40 when I'm in a situation that dictates a smaller pistol, and it's even easier.

Try a high ride holster that gives 1-2 inches between the grip and the top of the belt, it's more comfortable and conceales better - on top of providing a faster draw ;)

[jwr]

Thanks for the additional input Jeep'

I know you're correct about finding the right holster for each gun. I was hoping to get off cheaply on this one by just getting a flush-fit mag but it looks like that's not going to happen.

Today I'm wearing my P238 in a CrossBreed MiniTuck that I've modded slightly by removing one clip. It's very adjustable and comfortable for me so I may end up getting a SuperTuck for the CW9. I was just hoping to avoid the expense for a while anyway :-)

I wish I could compare the Minotaur to the SuperTuck--I've heard great things about the Minotaur.

One of my other favorite holsters is a Bullard Bandit which helps the gun to ride pretty high and in tight. I might order one of these for the Kahr as well.

I'm quite happy with my belt even though I can't remember where I got it. It's very stout and doesn't flex at all under any of my holsters.

(the Bullard--when it was new and shiny)
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn69/jerrywrussell/bullard-100.jpg

[jeep45238]

The Supertuck and the MTAC are very comparable - the benefit of the MTAC is that it's modular, so if you change guns, you're not out $60+ in a holster. Instead you can buy a $30 shell for each gun you'd like to carry, and adjust cant and ride height of the gun as well (don't waste your money on the C clips though, found that out the hard way).

See how with that P238 the grip is very close to the top of the holster? That doesn't provide for a full strong grip on the draw, it's very low to the hip line and isn't up on your body in the curve between the rib cage and your waist.

Try unloading the P238 and tossing in a bit of crumpled paper into the holster where the muzzle goes and rest the P238 in the holster, so it rides high, and see how that rides for comfort/concealment and draw. Put more in there to try different heights. You can very easily guard the trigger and create that gap between the holster/belt with the right setup.

I think you'll be pretty shocked - and the stainless T40 has no wear marks on it, though my 1911 looks like it's been drug behind a truck for a few miles :)


I may be young and have only been carrying for a few years, but I take it extremely seriously (you can google my name and pull up a CNN article), and have helped multiple training courses along the way - I learned quite a bit while doing those, and in my own time.

Just offering some advice that may help you out in the long run :)

[jwr]

See how with that P238 the grip is very close to the top of the holster? That doesn't provide for a full strong grip on the draw, it's very low to the hip line and isn't up on your body in the curve between the rib cage and your waist.

It actually rides pretty high up with the end of the muzzle just slightly below the bottom of my belt.

Looking at all the Minotaur photos from the link you provided shows the guns riding in about the same place as my P238--with the top of the belt just managing to cover to the triggerguards. To me this is a very comfortable position and provides a lot of support for the gun but still plenty of room to grip it.

Are you adjusting yours up higher to ride with the complete triggerguard *above* the belt?

http://www.comp-tac.com/catalog/images/MTAC-Slide.jpg

[jwr]

Here's a photo of a Bullard Bodyguard which rides quite high, but because of the extreme forward cant it needs to be carried behind the hip. Right now I can get away with carrying at 3 o'clock which is more comfortable for me while sitting (which is what I do most of the day).

http://estore.websitepros.com/stores/1565531/images/BG%20Guard%2019911.JPG

[jeep45238]

Take that picture you just posted of the 1911 and rotate it so it only has maybe a 10-20* forward tilt. The trigger is more or less covered by the belt.

Doing this literally allows me to get a complete grip on the gun for a fast, sure draw.

The MTAC is completely wide open and adjustable for this style of shooting/drawing. A holster that has an extreme cant or a straight up/down generally will NOT be good for much for most people, especially when it rides high. Yes, it may conceal - good luck getting it out quickly since you'll be fighting the cant of the holster.

Take your gun and stand in front of the mirror, gun in the strong hand. Move the gun around your waist and pay attention to the angle the gun naturally wants to take - that's the cant you want to replicate. It will offer resistance (hereby known as retention) from everybody but yourself due to the stiff nature of good holsters, and since the cant matches your natural draw, you'll still have a wicked quick draw.

[Pistol Pedro]

Does anyone have a photo of their CW9 with the metal baseplate? I'm just wondering how far it still sticks out or if it does actually make it flush.

Not my gun, but I did the exact same with my P9. I was very surprised at the difference it made in how it concealed. I did get a little pinch on my pinky finger during a range session but nothing too bad. I am glad I did it.

[wyntrout]

I haven't tried anything like this and maybe you have thought of it, but a rubber band just the right size, might fill that gap and not interfere with normal magazine insertion... just enough to stop the pinch. I would kind of flinch in anticipation of a "bite" like that.
Wynn

[jwr]

Not my gun, but I did the exact same with my P9. I was very surprised at the difference it made in how it concealed. I did get a little pinch on my pinky finger during a range session but nothing too bad. I am glad I did it.
Thanks for the photo's! I think I'll give it a shot.

[jwr]

Not my gun, but I did the exact same with my P9. I was very surprised at the difference it made in how it concealed. I did get a little pinch on my pinky finger during a range session but nothing too bad. I am glad I did it.
After giving it some thought I decided to take the baseplate of the stock magazine down even further. Previously I had ground the ridge off the front of the baseplate and smoothed it out so it looked like this:
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn69/jerrywrussell/cw9-mag-100.jpg

A few minutes ago I ground the bottom of the baseplate so that it's flat instead of tapering down towards the front. This took another 1/16" or so off the bottom front of the baseplate. I also round the bottom edge a little more to avoid a pinch. It feels very good--I just need to shoot it now.

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn69/jerrywrussell/mag-100.jpg