So has anyone actually installed their own sights on a CM9?

[dirtengineer]

I am considering night sights - I really wish Truglo made TFO sights for the CM9.

I own a rear sight pusher, (one of these - http://www.midwayusa.com/product/163458/b-and-j-machine-model-500-universal-front-and-rear-sight-tool) but reading experiences on this forum leads me to believe it is more challenging that other guns. I can handle glock sights no problem.

So has anyone on here actually attempted it and succeeded or failed? Any lessons learned for the rest of us?

[JFootin]

Someone said putting the slide in the freezer for a while helped loosen the dovetail.

Check out this thread -

http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=10192&highlight=freezer+sights

[dirtengineer]

Interesting technique. I think that I am going to order some night sights and try it with my pusher. I guess if things are really tight I can use the hot and cold technique discussed.

[MikeyKahr]

Someone said putting the slide in the freezer for a while helped loosen the dovetail.

Simple Physics, cousin. Hope those storms didn't knock you around too badly.

Sent using Tapatalk

[Rodenmg]

When pushing the rear be sure and go in the right direction. One side of the dovetail is wider than the other. It's pretty easy to see just looking at it.

[gb6491]

While I haven't done the sights on a CM9, I have done them on a CW45 and a CW9. The rear sight on my CW45 was stubborn to remove. I actually damaged my sight pusher and finished the removal with a brass punch and hammer. On the CW9, I decided to forgo the pusher, sprayed the sight with PB Blaster, let it sit overnight, and removed it the next day with a punch and hammer (came off with relatively little effort). New sights generally require some fitting, so you can do that to the point that they go on with ease. A punch would be fine for installation of non tritium sights, but a pusher is advisable for night sights.
Here's some info about the installs I did:
http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=8585
http://kahrtalk.com/showpost.php?p=15666&postcount=1
http://kahrtalk.com/showpost.php?p=54961&postcount=27
Regards,
Greg

[dirtengineer]

While I haven't done the sights on a CM9, I have done them on a CW45 and a CW9. The rear sight on my CW45 was stubborn to remove. I actually damaged my sight pusher and finished the removal with a brass punch and hammer. On the CW9, I decided to forgo the pusher, sprayed the sight with PB Blaster, let it sit overnight, and removed it the next day with a punch and hammer (came off with relatively little effort). New sights generally require some fitting, so you can do that to the point that they go on with ease. A punch would be fine for installation of non tritium sights, but a pusher is advisable for night sights.
Here's some info about the installs I did:
http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=8585
http://kahrtalk.com/showpost.php?p=15666&postcount=1
http://kahrtalk.com/showpost.php?p=54961&postcount=27
Regards,
Greg

Thanks Greg - all good information.

[cobrasjp]

I've changed sights on a PM9, P9, and a K9 using the PI model 500 sight tool from B & J Machine.

Here's my observations:

Always push the sight out from left to right. Always push the new sight in from right to left.

Put tape over all exterior surfaces of the slide except for the sights. This will protect the finish from scratches.

Soak everything in penetrating oil.

If you don't already have a magnifying visor, buy one or borrow one. It will help you to see if the tip of the screw that pushes the sight is set too low. If it is set too low, it will gouge the bottom of the dovetail in the slide. I found this out the hard way.

The biggest problem with this sight tool is a tendency for the slide to torque sideways when you start pushing on the sight. To combat this, see the next two suggestions.

The movable bar on the sight tool that clamps the slide is plastic. Be careful with it. It's hard to clamp the slide really tight. I made a metal bar that takes the place of the plastic bar. If you can't do this, you may want to sandwich a thick piece of metal between the slide and the plastic clamp bar.

I used a small c-clamp to clamp between the top of the slide and the bottom of the sight tool. It pushes the slide down into the tool and helps prevent it from torqueing sideways when you start pushing on the sight.

Hope this helps.
Let me know if you have any questions.
CobraSJP

[jocko]

can anyone explain to me how they dovetail these sights and end u-p with one side more open than others, I sure am not doubting what people say here, just asking how it is done and WHY EVEN. I have seen some dovetails bits on gun sights and I cannot see hw they can taper them down.

[cobrasjp]

can anyone explain to me how they dovetail these sights and end u-p with one side more open than others, I sure am not doubting what people say here, just asking how it is done and WHY EVEN. I have seen some dovetails bits on gun sights and I cannot see hw they can taper them down.

Maybe they use a broach at the factory when they cut the dovetail instead of a milling cutter. A broach is slightly tapered.
Not really sure though.

[skiflydive]

Uhm, didn't address the method, sorry. With modern CNC (Computer Numerical Control) mills, setting up to cut a slot that is wider at one end than the other is easy.

I would venture to say all of the machining on a Kahr slide is done with CNC tooling. :o

If you look at the company profile on the Kahr site you'll find that the parent company specializes in contract CNC machining and manufacturing CNC tooling.

[cobrasjp]

Uhm, didn't address the method, sorry. With modern CNC (Computer Numerical Control) mills, setting up to cut a slot that is wider at one end than the other is easy.

I would venture to say all of the machining on a Kahr slide is done with CNC tooling. :o

Probably right. I was just taking a guess.

[dirtengineer]

The lessons learned are great. This is one of the main purposes of these forums!