View Full Version : Say Bawanna,
Armybrat
01-18-2012, 11:29 AM
...saw in another thread that you were a wood guy (the stuff from trees, that is).
About a month ago I had a little problem with this sweet Winchester 9422XTR. Apparently it had shifted a bit in my safe, and when I opened it the rifle fell out. The muzzle hit the carpet and the buttstock bounced up and back down on the safe threshold, inflicting the terrible damage pictured here.
When I remove the stock, what type of glue do you recommend? This little .22 safe queen is pretty sentimental, as my Dad gave it to me about 30 years ago and was unfired & 100% perfect. The finish is the original glossy varnish.
Any suggestions would very much be appreciated, except for beating myself with a stick. I already did that.
Thanks in advance.
http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w349/ScoPro/Armybrat%20Album1/Guns056.jpg
muggsy
01-18-2012, 12:30 PM
I'm not Bawanna and I don't even play him on this MB, but my father was a custom stockmaker and gunsmith, so I'll offer you this. High shear strength Epoxy will afford you the strongest joint, but you might want to consider a replacement stock. The 9422 is an excellent gun.
Longitude Zero
01-18-2012, 12:33 PM
but you might want to consider a replacement stock.
Oh yeah agree with muggsy, replace that busted boy. The last thing you want is a failure when it is up against your face.
jocko
01-18-2012, 12:42 PM
indeed a super lever action. When it was first introludeced do most of u guy know it msrp for 99 bucks. We sold dozens of them.
Popeye
01-18-2012, 01:02 PM
I made my own living room furniture. Cabinet and trim work was part of the carpenter trade in which I worked for over 35 years. If that were my rifle and I wanted to keep that stock. I'd see if I could open that crack up a bit and put some Tooth picks in the crack to hold it open.Then I fill that crack with Elmers Carpenters Wood Glue Max. Stock and glue must be 60* or better.Then remove the tooth picks clamp and let the excees run out and clean up with a wet cloth. Clamp must be on for at least one hr. 24 hours at room temperature and she'll be good as new. I have done laps joints in oak with this stuff and did acouple extra joints to check it's strenth. I tried to break the joint but broke the wood instead.
http://ts2.mm.bing.net/images/thumbnail.aspx?q=1565262161849&id=e81e85fd1f0d569f3f28cb69121e1d14&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.elmers.com%2fimages%2fproduct s%2fmedium%2fE7300.jpg
Armybrat
01-18-2012, 01:04 PM
Already considered replacing it, but the suppliers for new ones don't have the fancier matching burl walnut (can't see it in my crappy photo).
Plus the replacements are $200.
I just wanna fix it best as possible & start using it as a shooter, or give it to my grandkids.
Being a .22 LR, I'm not worried about excessive recoil crackin' any repair. ;)
jocko
01-18-2012, 01:04 PM
elmers, my old time carpenter, that is all he ever used EVER.
Armybrat
01-18-2012, 01:07 PM
I made my own living room furniture. Cabinet and trim work was part of the carpenter trade in which I worked for over 35 years. If that were my rifle and I wanted to keep that stock. I'd see if I could open that crack up a bit and put some Tooth picks in the crack to hold it open.Then I fill that crack with Elmers Carpenters Wood Glue Max. Stock and glue must be 60* or better.Then remove the tooth picks clamp and let the excees run out and clean up with a wet cloth. Clamp must be on for at least one hr. 24 hours at room temperature and she'll be good as new. I have done laps joints in oak with this stuff and did acouple extra joints to check it's strenth. I tried to break the joint but broke the wood instead.
http://ts2.mm.bing.net/images/thumbnail.aspx?q=1565262161849&id=e81e85fd1f0d569f3f28cb69121e1d14&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.elmers.com%2fimages%2fproduct s%2fmedium%2fE7300.jpg
Thanks, that sounds like the wway to go.
There is also a 1" long shallow dent behind the comb. Would "steaming" it with a damp cloth & hot iron mess up the varnish much?
TucsonMTB
01-18-2012, 01:09 PM
Already considered replacing it, but the suppliers for new ones don't have the fancier matching burl walnut (can't see it in my crappy photo).
Plus the replacements are $200.
I just wanna fix it best as possible & start using it as a shooter, or give it to my grandkids.
Being a .22 LR, I'm not worried about excessive recoil crackin' any repair. ;)
Popeye already gave you the best advice. The repair with white glue will be stronger than the original wood in that area. :)
BEARDOG
01-18-2012, 01:20 PM
I made my own living room furniture. Cabinet and trim work was part of the carpenter trade in which I worked for over 35 years. If that were my rifle and I wanted to keep that stock. I'd see if I could open that crack up a bit and put some Tooth picks in the crack to hold it open.Then I fill that crack with Elmers Carpenters Wood Glue Max. Stock and glue must be 60* or better.Then remove the tooth picks clamp and let the excees run out and clean up with a wet cloth. Clamp must be on for at least one hr. 24 hours at room temperature and she'll be good as new. I have done laps joints in oak with this stuff and did acouple extra joints to check it's strenth. I tried to break the joint but broke the wood instead.
http://ts2.mm.bing.net/images/thumbnail.aspx?q=1565262161849&id=e81e85fd1f0d569f3f28cb69121e1d14&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww.elmers.com%2fimages%2fproduct s%2fmedium%2fE7300.jpg
+1 That's what I would use on it.
I just used it on a project, it worked very well, it makes a stronger bond then the wood itself, good stuff!
jeepster09
01-18-2012, 01:21 PM
They can fix it if you don't want to.....Great Shop, great work.
http://www.ahlmans.com/gunrepair.html
getsome
01-18-2012, 01:38 PM
+1 on Elmers Max wood glue which I have used before and works really well and if you glue and clamp it good it will be a permanent repair...
As for the dent I would remove the stock and when the glue sets after 24 hours you could strip the old finish with some Formby's furniture stripper and try and sand out the dent and then refinish the stock in a nice walnut stain with 4-5 coats of Tung Oil for a final finish...Since you plan for it to be a shooter if it ever gets dinged up again a little steel wool and a couple coats of Tung Oil will bring it right back to good as new...
I had to refinish the stock on my sons Ruger 10/22 after brake cleaner bubbled up the cheap factory finish and after doing as described above it looks better than new and will always be easy to touch up any little dings....
I had a rifle like yours when I was a youngster and that little 22 mag Winchester was a real tack driver and squirrels feared me for miles around... That rifle was stolen in a break in and I have always missed it...Good luck with your repair...
Popeye
01-18-2012, 01:42 PM
Thanks, that sounds like the wway to go.
There is also a 1" long shallow dent behind the comb. Would "steaming" it with a damp cloth & hot iron mess up the varnish much?
Armybrat That I really could not say if it would or wouldn't however if it did you could make a nice little refinishing project for yourself. IMO it would be a shame not to leave that gun in it's original condition. A little bump here or there only adds to it's beauty. That's just me being me though. Good luck
Bawanna
01-18-2012, 02:00 PM
Sorry I'm late to the party, I've been without internet sporadically for a few days, like the North Pole around here lately.
That's a major league crack you got there and it almost looks like it's completely broke off.
I use Acra glas for most everything anymore. It's incredibly tough. The glue mentioned would certainly work in the area of that break if you get a good bond. You have the support of the back of the frame to help. Funny it broke there actually.
Steaming won't do you any good unless you remove the varnish. The steam won't penetrate. You'll most likely have to remove all the varnish, steam the dent and glue it up. No doubt have to touch up or re do the checkering as well. It's imperative that you get it all lined up perfectly or the checkering part would be a night mare.
Personally I'd fix the stock for the sentimental value but continue to search for a replacement as well.
I'd need a beach towel if that was mine, I'm tearing up just looking at it.
If you tackle it yourself I'm happy to help anyway I can.
Bawanna
01-18-2012, 02:04 PM
+1 on Elmers Max wood glue which I have used before and works really well and if you glue and clamp it good it will be a permanent repair...
As for the dent I would remove the stock and when the glue sets after 24 hours you could strip the old finish with some Formby's furniture stripper and try and sand out the dent and then refinish the stock in a nice walnut stain with 4-5 coats of Tung Oil for a final finish...Since you plan for it to be a shooter if it ever gets dinged up again a little steel wool and a couple coats of Tung Oil will bring it right back to good as new...
I had to refinish the stock on my sons Ruger 10/22 after brake cleaner bubbled up the cheap factory finish and after doing as described above it looks better than new and will always be easy to touch up any little dings....
I had a rifle like yours when I was a youngster and that little 22 mag Winchester was a real tack driver and squirrels feared me for miles around... That rifle was stolen in a break in and I have always missed it...Good luck with your repair...
This is what I would do if it was mine. You would have to give the forearm the same treatment. I don't like stain much unless the wood is just too blonde or plain, to risky if it don't turn out right. I do love tung oil and linseed oil and as getsome said, if you get a ding down the road it's easy to touch it up.
jocko
01-18-2012, 02:26 PM
I do think though u have a "fetish" for pink.. not that thats a bad thing nless u wear a susan b. komen pink bra:banplease:
muggsy
01-18-2012, 05:55 PM
This is what I would do if it was mine. You would have to give the forearm the same treatment. I don't like stain much unless the wood is just too blonde or plain, to risky if it don't turn out right. I do love tung oil and linseed oil and as getsome said, if you get a ding down the road it's easy to touch it up.
For a small dent he could remove the finish with 0000 steel wool and steam it. Birchwood Casey Tru-oil should handle the touch up of the finish. I've used it with good results.
repairing cracked off headstocks of guitars is something I've dabbled with. There we use hide glue. However.... HOWEVER... hide glue is neither water proof nor heat resistant. When used properly, it will be stronger than the wood - under its set climatic restraints.
Me... having repaired a few broken off headstocks... I'd do that one in a very light epoxy. Something runny. Mask all areas that need not get glue on them! Use a "caul" (a form) to conform to the woods profile and clamp the cauls to make the crack go away... it should line up perfectly. Do this all as a few - not one, but a few - dry runs. When you have it down like walking and chewing gum at the same time, THEN do a glue run. Epoxy should be better environmentally.... although we dont use that in the guitar world since they dont need the environmental sturdiness, and because hide glue SOUNDS better, better resonance.
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