Bought a J frame

[MW surveyor]

S&W 638 today. Some times the CW9 or the SP 101 357 with 3" barrel are just too much. The little J frame with the hammer shroud really just slips in and out of my jeans pocket really easy.

Will take it to the range tomorrow and post obligatory photos. Right now I'm waiting for the fluorescent orange sight paint to dry.

Now I've got to buy a new pocket holster (probably a nemisis) and a good set of gunsmith screw drivers. Just have to get the side plate off and polish up the internals :D

[Bawanna]

Seems to be a run on those lately. You get the 1 7/8" barrel? Jfootin just got one. I finally got my wife and one in the same room last weekend and she liked it so I plan to get one for her as well.
I love being able to thumb the hammer back as an option. It's a might tricky letting it down though if you decide not to shoot. Pretty stiff hammer pull.
I'll condition her DA only.
Waiting to see how Jfootins turns out at Ahlmans after the trigger job. Might help.

[les strat]

Congrats! I think a good j-frame is a good alternative to the small Kahrs some days. YOu just feel like it's going to go bang every time.

If you are not used to sights on a j-frame, it is different. Notice the front sight is way higher than the back groove you line it up with. This means you have to bury that front sight at the very bottom of the back sights, not even at the top, or you'll shoot high. I have to put the target IN the back sight channel groovewith the front sight buried low.

I used to wonder why I couldn't hit at all with mine until I read that and took a look at the front height vs back sights.

[kayl]

I love my J-frame, it's the perfect anytime gun. I prefer the CM9, but when it just won't do, the 442 is great!

Better 5 of .38spec than nothing at all! :)

[MW surveyor]

Bawanna - yes it is the 1 7/8" barrel. Was going to do a trigger job this evening, but I don't have any screw drivers that really fit the side plate screws without taking the chance of buggering up or as we say "bubba up". Been just DA'ing as a poor man's trigger job at the present. Will get the spring kit from Wolff on order and they will be here when I get back from Singapore. Going there next Wednesday and hopefully back on the 19th. There is a very good video on youtube about doing a trigger job on the J frame. Takes you through each step of the process. Putting the hammer back down doesn't seem to be a problem. There's just enough meat on the hammer to get a pretty good friction hold. Pull the trigger with your thumb on the hammer, let it go slowly forward just a tad and take your finger off the trigger. You can actually feel the hammer stop engage.

les - thanks for the tip. My SP 101 has the same type of sights but depending on what type of ammo I am shooting makes the difference in POA and POI. I'll start out with some factory ammo first then move over to my bunny fart reloads using 148 grain wad cutters. Probably finish up with some +P to see how they shoot. I'm about 99.9999% sure that each of the rounds will fire when I pull the trigger in a revolver :)

kayl - yep and a good speed reload insures that you may be able to get another 5 off if necessary.

Well, since most people post some gripe (actually used the "b" word) and to fit in with that crowd.......After they test fired the gun, they did not clean it. WTH :(

[LMT42]

You might want to consider one of these for your trigger job.

https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid49.html

Complete kit, easy to install with their video, takes the trigger from stock 12lb down to 9lbs, cheap too, best money I've spent in a while.

[MW surveyor]

LMT42 - thanks for the tip on the apex. Not sure what the advantage of having to replace the firing pin and its spring.
Since I'm kinda cheap, I'll just go with the Wolff Spring kit for $9.95 and polish up the internals as per the video posted by nutinfancy.

[Barth]

Had a trigger job done on both J-frames.
Guy put reduced power Wilson combat springs in both guns.
The 640-1 was getting light primer strikes regularly with Remington Golden Sabers.
Installed Wolff extra power hammer springs in both 640-1 and 342 ti guns.

Now they are both 100% reliable and still have light pulls.
Apparently the hammer spring has nothing to do with the pull weight?

It sounds bizarre;
but I recommend lighter trigger springs with a plus power hammer spring.

Got real S&W stainless steel, narrow, serrated, triggers off the internet.
Had a gunsmith round, smooth and polish the 640-1 stainless trigger into a custom combat double action trigger.
WOW it's truly amazing.
The combat trigger alone makes the pull feel lighter.

Check the trigger BEFORE/AFTER
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo35/42/de/54699ae86529__1323728985000.jpghttps://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo16/b9/05/16bfac6a616c__1327772141000.jpg

[MW surveyor]

Barth - thanks for the info. Wouldn't mind finding a stainless trigger for this gun. But, got to shoot it first!

Found an old post on the S&W forum where a guy tested just about all of the spring kits and the apex kit. Trigger pull went from about 12 pounds to 9.8 with the Wolff 8 pound main spring and the reduced power trigger rebound spring plus stoned the bearing surfaces. Sounds good to me.

FYI - just fooling around and noted that I was able to load my 357 magnum rounds into this gun. I'm definitely going to have to not keep any of the 357 mag rounds from getting into this gun!

[onegun]

I always fire my Smiths double action so my J-frames are the 640-1 and the 442 Pro. My 442 pro came with a much improved trigger over an earlier 442 I had. They now have a stainless coated cylinder and barrel instead of the carbon they used to use. My 442 rides in my pocket all the time, regardless of what else I carry.

I thought the Apex kit sounded like a good idea but there have been several mentions of the firing pin flaking and concerns of not moving freely. They may have to rework it some.

[Barth]

Almost forgot to mention.
The Speer GDHP 135 +P Short barrel load is widely concidered the Gold Standard for snub nose ammo.
FBI Protocol test from a 2" barrel
http://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullet_tests.htm
Although out of my 11 oz gun they kick like a 357

As for grips,
I must have 6 or more.
For recoil Pachmayr's Compac Grips rule the day on my 640-1/357.
For pocket carry; Hogue Bantam Grips are lighter than anything else,
have no screws and fit perfect on my 342 ti.
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo12/49/48/fbfb9f99de92__1328262741000.jpg

[MW surveyor]

This gun came with the boot type grips with the back strap exposed. I'll have to shoot it first in this configuration before I start looking at other grips. I don't think that this gun will be a range toy in that I'll be shooting it that many rounds through it except for today (I hope).

[JFootin]

As for grips,
I must have 6 or more.
For recoil Pachmayr's Compac Grips rule the day on my 640-1/357.
For pocket carry; Hogue Bantam Grips are lighter than anything else,
have no screws and fit perfect on my 342 ti.


I found rock bottom prices with free shipping on both grips:

http://www.i-martstore.com/servlet/the-71378/Compac-Grip-S%26W-J-dsh-Frame/Detail

http://www.i-martstore.com/servlet/the-31169/Rubber-Grip-dsh-J-Frame-Round/Detail

[JFootin]

This gun came with the boot type grips with the back strap exposed. I'll have to shoot it first in this configuration before I start looking at other grips. I don't think that this gun will be a range toy in that I'll be shooting it that many rounds through it except for today (I hope).

That's my thought once I get mine back from Ahlman's. It doesn't require a breakin period, it is not a range gun and I imagine it is not that pleasant to shoot even with SP range ammo (haven't shot it, yet). I will shoot it enough to be proficient with it at SD distance, and a very little bit with +p SD rounds just to know what to expect. After that, maybe a cylinder or two of SP FMJ when I am at the range.

[les strat]

I like wood. These on the 642 are Hogue batams in wood (pau ferro.) No drag on the pocket, pretty, and comfy controlled grip for same size as the stocks rubbers.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v385/KevinJenne/3revolvers.jpg

[gb6491]

...FYI - just fooling around and noted that I was able to load my 357 magnum rounds into this gun. I'm definitely going to have to not keep any of the 357 mag rounds from getting into this gun!
Congrats on the new revolver:), but I do urge a little caution.
I think a call to S&W might be in order. You should not be able to chamber (and close the cylinder) on a .357 Magnum round in a Smith that is properly chambered for .38 SPL.
Regards,
Greg

[LaP]

For an alternative to the DeSantis Nemesis, take a look at the Galco pocket holster. At $20, it's great deal.

http://www.lapolicegear.com/gapoprinpaho.html

[Bawanna]

I concur whole heartedly. It could be a very bad thing in the future if you ever sell or otherwise get that gun in somebody elses hands.
They apparently got the cylinder mixed up in the staging area.

[MW surveyor]

Well, now you got me worried about the 357 deal. I'll give them a call after lunch or email now and tell you guys what they said.

I do like wood grips but......I bought this gun on the cheap and that's the way it's gonna be......Unless.....

[onegun]

I'm another that likes wood grips. I regularly shoot +P out of mine and it's not too bad. With these little guns the way you hold it is the most important thing. I use a hold promoted by Jerry Miculek (sp?) and it really helps for recoil and accuracy. I think you can probably google and find it. Here's my favorite for pocket carry
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t201/IkenI_photo/008.jpg

I like the Hogue bantams also but, being rubber, they drag a little. I recently tried a Sticky brand pocket holster and, so far, really like it. Good price, too.

[Bawanna]

Well, now you got me worried about the 357 deal. I'll give them a call after lunch or email now and tell you guys what they said.

I do like wood grips but......I bought this gun on the cheap and that's the way it's gonna be......Unless.....

I know a guy that knows a guy, if his wife gets a 638 wood won't be a problem. Cheap is his last name, actually I think his middle name is cheap too. Maybe he's a bird cheap cheap. Watch out for cats.

[JFootin]

I know a guy that knows a guy, if his wife gets a 638 wood won't be a problem. Cheap is his last name, actually I think his middle name is cheap too. Maybe he's a bird cheap cheap. Watch out for cats.

I think I know that guy, too! :yo: I am negotiating with Mike Ahlman about the price to Duracoat my 638 a deep, shiny black like the Classic J-frames while he is doing other stuff to it (porting, trigger and action job, reducing the hammer shield to expose the hammer a bit for easier manipulation). No way I am ever going to get what I'm investing in it back on resale, so I might as well get what I want and tell them to put it (loaded! :D) in the coffin with me when I croak.

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee486/John_England/Miscellanious%20Guns%20and%20Holsters/SWAirweight38Snub.jpg

I am going to paint the ramp front sight day glow orange so I can pick it up more quickly. With the Altamont Super Rosewood Boot Grip it is going to look sharp! :D

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee486/John_England/Miscellanious%20Guns%20and%20Holsters/SWModel638wAltamontGrips.jpg

[Bawanna]

I never give resale a thought. Definitely get what you want. I'm not a big fan of shiny black myself but if that's how you roll, now is the time to get r dun. I'd sure like hold that puppy when you get it all done and feel how it works first hand. I'll have to rely on your report I reckon.

[Garland]

I painted the front ramp on mine and it shows up pretty well.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n568/garlandmeyer/50f58a9b.jpg

[MW surveyor]

Well, I emailed them as hanging on to the phone is a "life's too short" experience. I'll post their reply if and when I receive it.

I'm either going to wait for their reply or just go out and shoot the darn thing if it ever decides to rain or not here in Houston.

Went by the one of the other LGS in my area to pick up the Desantis holster. Tried it out but did not like the way it bulged out from the cylinder which pushed the pocket out. Looks like I'm gonna go cheaper and just get an Uncle Mikes #3.

We may be able to work something out if someone gets a 638 or one of the other flavors with regard to a wood grip :)

Yep, the fluorescent orange on mine really stands out nicely. Can even see it without my glasses!

[DKD]

Guys I just thought I'd chime in a bit here regarding the small Smith "J" frame. I got one about two years ago and as BAWANNA stated was a bit of a bear to lower the hammer on the model 638. I have the same model for the same reason and I went and put a smith & Wesson spring kit in it and the double action was about 30% lighter and smoother, not to mention easy to let the hammer down.
I was also able to shrink my groups by about 50% double action at 7 yards to boot. I would recommend that inexpensive upgrade. I think the kit was only $35.00 and maybe $ 10.00 to install....well worth the money especially if you want to hit anything with that belly gun.

[JFootin]

I never give resale a thought. Definitely get what you want. I'm not a big fan of shiny black myself but if that's how you roll, now is the time to get r dun. I'd sure like hold that puppy when you get it all done and feel how it works first hand. I'll have to rely on your report I reckon.

I'll give a good report with pics.

DKD, the gunsmiths at Ahlman's are going to get mine down close to 7 pounds, silky smooth and guaranteed positive strikes for $70. I think it is worth it to have it worked on by top rate gunsmiths. I have crippled hands, so that is why they are lowering the hammer shield enough for me to get in front of it to c0ck or uncock. The trigger safety is a comfort, too, because if you slip the gun won't go off.

MW surv, I think Greg and Bawanna are right - there is something not right about that cylinder. But who knows. Maybe you are the first one to try some 357 mag ammo in one. It will probably be safe shooting 38 range ammo, but get a resolution from S&W.

The Unce Mike's #3 is very thin and works well. As a matter of fact, I have found that I can insert it AIWB and it will stay put because of the belt tension on the gripper strips on the front and back. A little backward cant and the grip snuggles down right above the belt and doesn't stick out.

LOL, I sit around the apartment without my glasses on all the time. I just put them on when I go out. I'm near sighted, so focusing on the sights isn't a problem. It's the target that gets fuzzy! :nerd:But with the stainless finish, I find it hard to see the sights in just about any light. The black finish on the gun and orange paint like you did on the ramp will be a great improvement.

I remember reading where someone said he had to bury the top of that tall ramp in the rear notch to keep from shooting high. When I was examining my gun after I got it, I used a ruler to compare the height of the sights and, with the ruler parallel to the top of the frame, it looked like the front sight was way too tall. So, I was assuming that you sighted it with a lot of the front sight sticking up above the rear sight. I haven't shot it, yet, so I hope someone with shooting experience with these J-frame snubbies will verify what the correct sight picture is?

[Barth]

I never give resale a thought. Definitely get what you want. I'm not a big fan of shiny black myself but if that's how you roll, now is the time to get r dun. I'd sure like hold that puppy when you get it all done and feel how it works first hand. I'll have to rely on your report I reckon.

I don't understand this whole resale concept - LOL!

Actually I did resell a H&K USP 45 compact....

But other than that one mistake; I've got 7 winners that will NEVER go on the chopping block.

[JFootin]

I don't understand this whole resale concept - LOL!

Actually I did resell a H&K USP 45 compact....

But other than that one mistake; I've got 7 winners that will NEVER go on the chopping block.

Did you put instructions in your will about all those guns? :)

If you want to do like me, I think you'll need a begger coffin!!! :emptybath:

[Bawanna]

I've determined I'll need two boxes at my funeral. Figure I'll stack em, guns on the bottom so they still have to go through me to get to them.

My son is updated with the ones I want on my person when it's time for the river crossing. Who says you can't take em with ya.

Actually that possible 357 cylinder would be great for a reloader. You can download 357's well within 38 special levels and when you got low on 38 brass you could use 357. Would want to make sure you didn't get your 357 Bear loads mixed up with your light target loads though.

Probably better and safer to get the right cylinder.

[jeepster09]

I'll give a good report with pics.

DKD, the gunsmiths at Ahlman's are going to get mine down close to 7 pounds, silky smooth and guaranteed positive strikes for $70. I think it is worth it to have it worked on by top rate gunsmiths. I have crippled hands, so that is why they are lowering the hammer shield enough for me to get in front of it to c0ck or uncock. The trigger safety is a comfort, too, because if you slip the gun won't go off.

MW surv, I think Greg and Bawanna are right - there is something not right about that cylinder. But who knows. Maybe you are the first one to try some 357 mag ammo in one. It will probably be safe shooting 38 range ammo, but get a resolution from S&W.

The Unce Mike's #3 is very thin and works well. As a matter of fact, I have found that I can insert it AIWB and it will stay put because of the belt tension on the gripper strips on the front and back. A little backward cant and the grip snuggles down right above the belt and doesn't stick out.

LOL, I sit around the apartment without my glasses on all the time. I just put them on when I go out. I'm near sighted, so focusing on the sights isn't a problem. It's the target that gets fuzzy! :nerd:But with the stainless finish, I find it hard to see the sights in just about any light. The black finish on the gun and orange paint like you did on the ramp will be a great improvement.

I remember reading where someone said he had to bury the top of that tall ramp in the rear notch to keep from shooting high. When I was examining my gun after I got it, I used a ruler to compare the height of the sights and, with the ruler parallel to the top of the frame, it looked like the front sight was way too tall. So, I was assuming that you sighted it with a lot of the front sight sticking up above the rear sight. I haven't shot it, yet, so I hope someone with shooting experience with these J-frame snubbies will verify what the correct sight picture is?


I was just at Ahlman's....I should of checked on it if it's done....maybe I can test it out for you :D They are installing a flash hider on my new rifle.

[340pd]

The j-frames are sweet little guns.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t320/gnystrom_photos/340pd.jpg

[TriggerMan]

S&W 638 today. Some times the CW9 or the SP 101 357 with 3" barrel are just too much. The little J frame with the hammer shroud really just slips in and out of my jeans pocket really easy.

Will take it to the range tomorrow and post obligatory photos. Right now I'm waiting for the fluorescent orange sight paint to dry.

Now I've got to buy a new pocket holster (probably a nemisis) and a good set of gunsmith screw drivers. Just have to get the side plate off and polish up the internals :DI shot my first ever revolver, a buddy's SW 642. Not as bad on recoil as I expected. WE SHOT 38 SPL IN STANDARD PRESSURE. A little worse trigger than I expected, but it had not been shot before. I'd consider buying one. Would love a good used one. Rare to see around here.

[JFootin]

I was just at Ahlman's....I should of checked on it if it's done....maybe I can test it out for you :D They are installing a flash hider on my new rifle.

Well I talked to a very nice young lady at the gunsmithing extension. I was trying to find out where Mike has been. We (or me anyway) were still negotiating the price of the Duracoat, but he hadn't answered any of my emails in a few days. Turned out he went to Shot Show and took some other time off and will be back in the office Monday. She checked and (thankfully) they hadn't started on my gun, yet. I didn't want to pay for them to try and refinish the hammer shield to sort of match the stock finish if I am going to get it Duracoated. The website says $100-150, even for an AR-15 and magazine. And when I asked, he said the price for me would be the full $150. So I was saying that my little hand sized gun should be a fraction of that. Don't you think so? Can you campaign for me on that price? :p

I would be glad for you to check the gun out for me! :) I'll PM you my real name if you're serious about doing it. And I'll let Mike know you have my approval to do it.

After my call, I sent Mike another email asking him to call me and lets get that price lowered on the Duracoat when he gets to that email. I hope he will not wade through the others I sent and go to that last one. She said his desk is piled with notes and guns, and I'll bet he has 100s of emails to read! Should I call him Tuesday if I don't hear from him on Monday?

[MW surveyor]

Ok, first thing off....no email back from S&W regarding the length of the cylinder. I did find out through some Googling that quite possibly they are making all of the 38 Spl +P cylinders the same length as the 357. This has not been verified through S&W.

Here's the results of my first range trip with the gun.

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l605/MWsurveyor/638firstouting.jpg

This target was the last one fired at, all double action. Some slow and some fast. Fired a total of about 100 rounds through the gun. Not that proud of it but hey, it's the first time I've shot the gun! The "group" measures 4" x 8" on the diagonal. The gun does shoot kinda high and I tried to make a conscious effort to bury the top of the front sight in the rear groove. The orange paint helped quite a bit after they turned the darned lights on at the range! BTW - it was raining like mad. Really glad that the outdoor range put up a roof.

Shooting impressions. Well there were absolutely no failures to feed, fire, revolve or extract, no slide sticking back and no limp wristing. ;)
The trigger is a bear after about 50 rounds in DA. It certainly isn't a Kahr trigger! I'll bet it is at minimum 12 pounds. The single action is really light. I'd say it is less than my 1911 for sure. This thing will surprise you in SA. Didn't have any problems de-C0cking the gun at the range. DA stacks pretty good with a clean break at the end.

I believe that after I do a "trigger job" on the gun the groups will tighten up. Bawanna, if Mrs. Bawanna gets one of these, either have her eat her Weaties or get a trigger job done. I know that she shoots the SP101 in 22 cal but not sure if she practices DA with it that much. I can say that I shot my SP101 in DA using magnum rounds after shooting the 638 and the difference in the triggers is like night and day.

Oh yea, the grips. They are OK for SD situation and this gun is not what I would call a range toy. Shot 130 grain 38 Spl, 148 grain target load wad cutters and 158 grain SWCs at +P loadings. Recoil was just not that bad with any of the rounds. Of course the bunny fart 148s were the most tame.

Triggerman - the day I bought this I went to the evil pawn shop about 15 miles from my house. They had about 3 used J frames. All of them looked to be abused and were more expensive than what I paid for my new one at my nearby LGS.

[Barth]

I'm not saying it isn't so, but holly %$#%!

I thought all S&W 38s had short cylinders as a safety feature to
be sure you didn't accidentally put a hot 357s in your air-weight 38
and blow your hand off!

It's very hard for me to believe S&W would do that on purpose after all these years?

Most importantly why would you do it?
To save money???
I mean they put ridiculous locks on their guns?

I'm very interested in what S&W has to say about this...

[MW surveyor]

No reply from S&W yet regarding the 357 in the 38 Spl +P j frame but here's a photo to show that not only is is possible, but I've already tried it. (not shooting the mag in the j frame but just loading the j frame up and working the cylinder)

Yes, that is a 357 magnum round!

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l605/MWsurveyor/357.jpg

[lkgmadmax]

S&W 638 today. Some times the CW9 or the SP 101 357 with 3" barrel are just too much. The little J frame with the hammer shroud really just slips in and out of my jeans pocket really easy.

Will take it to the range tomorrow and post obligatory photos. Right now I'm waiting for the fluorescent orange sight paint to dry.

Now I've got to buy a new pocket holster (probably a nemisis) and a good set of gunsmith screw drivers. Just have to get the side plate off and polish up the internals :D

Congratulations! I enjoy mine....


http://img.tapatalk.com/4741feab-2867-87b3.jpg

Sent from my ThinkPad Tablet using Tapatalk

[MW surveyor]

Exactly, except for the grips. See photos.

Hey, welcome to the forum!

[lkgmadmax]

Enjoy!

Sent from my ThinkPad Tablet using Tapatalk

[MW surveyor]

Contacted S&W this morning early @0805 their time. Got right through. S&W said send it in and that they would have a box and shipping stuff for me in about three days. Unfortunately, I'm going out of the U.S. tomorrow afternoon and will be gone for about 3 weeks. So, I'll have to go to my LGS tomorrow morning (they are closed on Monday) and have them return it and also receive it back from S&W. SHMBO has plans to visit the grand kids so no one would be at home to receive it.

In any event, for those who may have been skeptical about this. (Whole bunch of people over on the TFL forum.) Here's a photo with a 357 on the left (lead nose) and a 38 Special on the right (copper nose). My middle finger is holding the rounds flush with the cylinder.

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l605/MWsurveyor/357and38.jpg

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek: WTH

[jlottmc]

I'd have just got that style in .357 and not worried about it. Oh wait, I did. I have the blued Taurus version of that in .357 and it ain't bad. I do like to carry it, and may do so more. Don't really know why I don't carry it that much. On the flip side, I would not have fired that thing at all. I do wonder though if S&W is making one frame and cylinder length. That would be something I would be asking them.

[pocket]

Hi everyone,
I had to have just one revolver myself. I bought a S&W Bodyguard with the the crimson trace. It gives off the feeling that it will definitely go "boom" and not "click."
Revolovers are far from outdated. Some of Smith &Wesson's performance center aerodynamic, ultra-light, and cool looking machines will forever be a part of our firearm history.

[MW surveyor]

jlottmc - From what I understand, S&W has been making the j frame cylinder for both the 38 Special +P and 357 magnum the same length for quite a while. The 38 Special +P version of the Airweight is not supposed to be able to chamber the 357 mag round as its cylinder chambers are counterbored to only accept the 38 Special round. If you look real close at the 38 Special round, you can see the counterbore just above the tip of the bullet.:eek:

Updated info from S&W. I about 2 hours after I called I received an answer to my email from S&W this morning from the email that I had sent on Friday morning. Of course they didn't understand what I was saying as it is "impossible to chamber the 357 round and have the cylinder close." In return, I sent the above photo to them with virtually the same info. The reply that I received after they got the photo...."management is waiting to look at your gun".

The story continues.......

[Bawanna]

I'd say there's a very good chance they just stuffed a 357 cylinder in your 38 marked gun. If that's the case and everything else is the same it would be to your benefit to keep it and the 357 versions usually run a couple hundred dollars more than the 38's.

But I would ascertain that the cylinder is the only different component and that your cylinder is in reality an actual 357 cylinder and not a 38 that got bored incorrectly.

I don't know what they do to the 357 to make it more impervious to the higher pressure. Different material, slightly thicker.

If it's all the same you scored a great coup and hopefully they'll just confirm that and offer to send it back. More versatile but I'd probably rarely shoot 357.

[Bawanna]

As an aside my wife texted me this morning and said she'd really like the 638 that she held and wanted to know if I'd ordered it. Of course it's Monday and alot of my resources are closed today. One is open but not getting a response.
I like to move on these occasions before her mind turns over and we come up with a new plan, ya know?

[ltxi]

I "re"discovered something about my old carry J-frames yesterday. In defensive/combat shooting the lack of an easily visible front sight is irrelevant. They're natural pointers....for me anyway....and their DA actions are light and slick.

So why did I go out and spend a gazillion dollars for an M&P 340 mostly for it's tritium front sight a couple/three months ago?

At least I now have a J-frame in my 442's weight class that can handle .357 and a steady .38 +P diet.....like I care about that.

[Barth]

I'd say there's a very good chance they just stuffed a 357 cylinder in your 38 marked gun. If that's the case and everything else is the same it would be to your benefit to keep it and the 357 versions usually run a couple hundred dollars more than the 38's.

But I would ascertain that the cylinder is the only different component and that your cylinder is in reality an actual 357 cylinder and not a 38 that got bored incorrectly.

I don't know what they do to the 357 to make it more impervious to the higher pressure. Different material, slightly thicker.

If it's all the same you scored a great coup and hopefully they'll just confirm that and offer to send it back. More versatile but I'd probably rarely shoot 357.
I agree that it appears they accidentally put a 357 cylinder in a 38.
And I don't know by any means.
But I would be very concerned about the forcing cone and locking mechanism strength.
357 is substantially more pressure than a 38.
I'm very skeptical that the only difference between a 38 and 357 gun is just the cylinder.

Now for the spider sense:
I feel what you really have is a 38 with a 357 ejector!

https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo03/0b/62/54bb5c52871e__1328569409000.jpg

Comparing my 342/640 it looks like the two cylinders are the same size!!!
I measured and they appear to be the same length.
It appears the ejector actually stops the 357 from going all the way into the cylinder and making it impossible to close the cylinder.
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo36/04/43/8a23d7df23e1__1328569765000.jpghttps://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo20/6c/74/99b33dd10359__1328570387000.jpg

[ltxi]

It's not that, it's the depth of the cylinder counterbore that prevents .357s from being chambered in a .38

[Bawanna]

There's usually a rim machined into a 38 that stop the case from going any deeper at the case mouth. The bullet will pass thru easy but not the case. A 357 being longer it would have to stick out the back and not close. Not even close.

[Barth]

Maybe so, i don't know.
Visually I can't see anything?
But my cylinders appear to be exactly the same length.

And my gut tells me that gun is an accident waiting to happen...

[MW surveyor]

Hey Barth! -
Take a look into the 38's cylinder, there is a counterbore that is just a tad longer than a 38 Special round that will allow for any minor differences in case length. It will however stop a 357 round from chambering as it is not deep enough for the 357 round to fit flush with the cylinder face.

Also see first sentence in my post #34.

Bawanna and others - If they want to give me a real j frame 357, I'll take it, but not gonna have one marked 38 S&W +P that will chamber and shoot 357s not really knowing if it will take it or not.

[Barth]

Hey Barth! -
Take a look into the 38's cylinder, there is a counterbore that is just a tad longer than a 38 Special round that will allow for any minor differences in case length. It will however stop a 357 round from chambering as it is not deep enough for the 357 round to fit flush with the cylinder face.

Also see first sentence in my post #34.

Bawanna and others - If they want to give me a real j frame 357, I'll take it, but not gonna have one marked 38 S&W +P that will chamber and shoot 357s not really knowing if it will take it or not.

Thanks for the info and good to hear your plan.
This gun bothers me big time...

[Bawanna]

Hey Barth! -
Take a look into the 38's cylinder, there is a counterbore that is just a tad longer than a 38 Special round that will allow for any minor differences in case length. It will however stop a 357 round from chambering as it is not deep enough for the 357 round to fit flush with the cylinder face.

Also see first sentence in my post #34.

Bawanna and others - If they want to give me a real j frame 357, I'll take it, but not gonna have one marked 38 S&W +P that will chamber and shoot 357s not really knowing if it will take it or not.


Exactly my point.. If they say yes it's a mismarked 357 then your aces. And there shouldn't be an issue down the road, if in fact it's 357 worthy. If as mentioned the forcing cone and other parts are not up to 357 snuff they your absolutely correct also, I wouldn't want that either.

Heck, hang on to it for 60 or 70 years and it'll probably be a rare bird worth millions.

[MW surveyor]

Nah, it's going back to the S&W mothership.

BTW - did you see where S&W sent out a six shooter that was bored and fluted for seven? At least mine still only had five :)

[gb6491]

Nah, it's going back to the S&W mothership.

BTW - did you see where S&W sent out a six shooter that was bored and fluted for seven? At least mine still only had five :)
I haven't seen that, but I did read where they sent a out a six shot .357 with a seven shot cylinder that was incorrectly bored with six chambers:
http://www.texaschlforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=51001
Regards,
Greg

[MW surveyor]

I haven't seen that, but I did read where they sent a out a six shot .357 with a seven shot cylinder that was incorrectly bored with six chambers:
http://www.texaschlforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=51001
Regards,
Greg

Greg
Yeah, that's what I meant. I knew the numbers were 6 and 7 but I got the cylinders wrong. You da man!

[jlottmc]

I'd say there's a very good chance they just stuffed a 357 cylinder in your 38 marked gun. If that's the case and everything else is the same it would be to your benefit to keep it and the 357 versions usually run a couple hundred dollars more than the 38's.

But I would ascertain that the cylinder is the only different component and that your cylinder is in reality an actual 357 cylinder and not a 38 that got bored incorrectly.

I don't know what they do to the 357 to make it more impervious to the higher pressure. Different material, slightly thicker.

If it's all the same you scored a great coup and hopefully they'll just confirm that and offer to send it back. More versatile but I'd probably rarely shoot 357.


That was kind of where I was going with my train of thought.

[JFootin]

All 638 frames and cylinders are the same size. I wonder why they don't make them a little shorter so they will fit a 38 cartridge but not a 357? The way those two rounds are made, that would be the only way to prevent 357s from being loaded because I don't think there is a "chamber" in those cylinders, is there? - Yeah, there is. Here are some interesting pages:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20111116162832AAqBvLt

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100605052929AADDNWb

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100321125720AA1qSd3

[MW surveyor]

Hence this thread. Believe me, it was a real WTH moment when I discoverd the 357s justa fittin in the chamber like they were supposed to be there!

You better check yours out when you get it back. Come to think of it, why don't you get in touch with your gunsmith before he does all that work to yours.

[JFootin]

Hence this thread. Believe me, it was a real WTH moment when I discoverd the 357s justa fittin in the chamber like they were supposed to be there!

You better check yours out when you get it back. Come to think of it, why don't you get in touch with your gunsmith before he does all that work to yours.

Well, none of the work involves the cylinder, but I don't have any 357 ammo so I'll ask them, or Jeepster, to check it out. (He is going to go by there and check out my gun after they are finished with it! With all of his experience with revolvers, and with their work, he'll make sure it is right! :))

[MW surveyor]

Just say'n.

I'll be off the forum for the next few days, traveling to Singapore. Sure hope that where I'm staying that the IP is not banned.

BTW - the gun will be on its way today from my LGS.

[gb6491]

Just say'n.

I'll be off the forum for the next few days, traveling to Singapore. Sure hope that where I'm staying that the IP is not banned.

BTW - the gun will be on its way today from my LGS.
Have a safe trip!
Regards,
Greg

[MW surveyor]

Well made it here and my IP is not banned :)

Thanks Greg

[Barth]

Well made it here and my IP is not banned :)

Thanks Greg

Enjoy some of that killer food my friend.
Wish I was there...

[JFootin]

Interesting bit of info from http://www.snubnose.info/docs/bodyguard.htm:
"In 1996, the 638-2 was reintroduced on the 'J-Magnum' frame. The J-Magnum frame is identical to the original J-frame except for the fact that it is 1/10″ longer, to accept the .357 Magnum cartridge. Even the .38 Special guns produced from this time forward are built on the J-Magnum frame."

[MW surveyor]

JFootin - So now you tell me? LOL, have not heard anything from S&W but I don't think the gun has arrived at their shop.

Will be having some pepper crab tonight!

[onegun]

The J-magnum frame was a move Smith did to standardize the J frames. I have the J-magnum frame on my J frames and .357 will not fit in the cylinder of my .38+P. It will only fit in the .357 cylinder. The cylinders are bored for the caliber. I think they just goofed up on yours.

[jeepster09]

Well I talked to a very nice young lady at the gunsmithing extension. I was trying to find out where Mike has been. We (or me anyway) were still negotiating the price of the Duracoat, but he hadn't answered any of my emails in a few days. Turned out he went to Shot Show and took some other time off and will be back in the office Monday. She checked and (thankfully) they hadn't started on my gun, yet. I didn't want to pay for them to try and refinish the hammer shield to sort of match the stock finish if I am going to get it Duracoated. The website says $100-150, even for an AR-15 and magazine. And when I asked, he said the price for me would be the full $150. So I was saying that my little hand sized gun should be a fraction of that. Don't you think so? Can you campaign for me on that price? :p

I would be glad for you to check the gun out for me! :) I'll PM you my real name if you're serious about doing it. And I'll let Mike know you have my approval to do it.

After my call, I sent Mike another email asking him to call me and lets get that price lowered on the Duracoat when he gets to that email. I hope he will not wade through the others I sent and go to that last one. She said his desk is piled with notes and guns, and I'll bet he has 100s of emails to read! Should I call him Tuesday if I don't hear from him on Monday?


Are you Duracoating entire gun? Mine usually run in the $60-$80 range on J frames. Talk to Nate.

[JFootin]

Are you Duracoating entire gun? Mine usually run in the $60-$80 range on J frames. Talk to Nate.

Nate wouldn't go under $100 but mentioned that they might discount the whole job a little. I told him it would already be disassembled from the other work, but he said they don't do that. Each gunsmith disassembles and reassembles the gun at his station. They don't send the guns around in a tray in pieces like I suggested for when multiple operations are being done. But maybe that is so they don't end up losing any parts. You are such a big repeat customer that they must give you discounts they don't give nobodys like me. :mad:

I am going with the 41 - Gloss Black, which should look somewhat like this, reflecting every other color in the room:

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee486/John_England/Miscellanious%20Guns%20and%20Holsters/SW38Airweight2.jpg

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee486/John_England/Miscellanious%20Guns%20and%20Holsters/SW38Airweight1.jpg

I asked Nate to note on my order that you are going to come by and check it out when they have finished it, that you have my enthusiastic approval to look it over, and even fire it at the range if you want to. Maybe you can lobby for me on the price while you're at it! :p

[Bawanna]

I'll give you both of my sisters for that gun right there with the stag grips. Nothing like nice stag to just blow my dress up around my ears.

That's nice.

[JFootin]

I'll give you both of my sisters for that gun right there with the stag grips. Nothing like nice stag to just blow my dress up around my ears.

That's nice.

LOL! I just found the pics in a Google search. I'm hoping my gun is going to look like that when I get it back! I have some Flitz gun wax. I imagine a coat or 2 of that on top of the new finish would make it look deep like that.

I wish I could afford some stag grips. I've bought a couple of aftermarket grips already, will probably get one or two more. They make fake stag grips that are a lot cheaper. Look like the real thing. Maybe I'll get some and let people believe they are real. :p

[jeepster09]

That is gorgous!!!

[kayl]

Any update from S&W?

[Bawanna]

OK, boys and girls, Bawanna's perplexed? Big surprise right?

As mentioned earlier I got Mrs. Bawanna and a 638 face to face and hand to grip and she liked it. We didn't get it on the spot cause it was a show and they wouldn't deliver there. A few days later she mentioned that she thought she really wanted that 638.
So I'm working it and my real local shop is slow in getting me a price which of course gave me time to ponder. (Not always a good thing)

So here's the cause for my perplexion not to be confused with complexion, mine is perfect incidently. I'm a thumb grabber and will single action any gun that gives me that option. She's shot a bit but not a shooter and its a new ball game for her. Now I'm pondering the 642, a little different look, no hump back, still slick with no hangups from pocket, purse or holster. BUT no ability to single action. Considering it's not a range gun but an up close and personal fast into action defensive piece I'm leaning towards the 642.
A detective here has one and I'm gonna take it home tonight and show Mrs. Bawanna and see what she thinks. I'm a firm believer that she needs to make the choice, not me but I want to give her the right things to consider being she's like me sort of challenged, blonde, left handed and hitched to me.

Pile your thoughts on me unless the blonde left handed thing ticked you off in which case pretend I didn't say that being the PC kind of guy I am.

[jlottmc]

I agree let her make the choice. Then again, I might see about letting her fondle a Taurus that is like the 638 and make sure I bought it in .357, regardless of whether you load them or not.

[JFootin]

Sounds like a good plan. You know, you can buy a spring kit for not a lot of money. Polish the action yourself and try different springs to make the trigger a bit easier on whichever one you buy. Go lighter on the trigger return spring and not too much on the hammer spring.

[Barth]

OK, boys and girls, Bawanna's perplexed? Big surprise right?

As mentioned earlier I got Mrs. Bawanna and a 638 face to face and hand to grip and she liked it. We didn't get it on the spot cause it was a show and they wouldn't deliver there. A few days later she mentioned that she thought she really wanted that 638.
So I'm working it and my real local shop is slow in getting me a price which of course gave me time to ponder. (Not always a good thing)

So here's the cause for my perplexion not to be confused with complexion, mine is perfect incidently. I'm a thumb grabber and will single action any gun that gives me that option. She's shot a bit but not a shooter and its a new ball game for her. Now I'm pondering the 642, a little different look, no hump back, still slick with no hangups from pocket, purse or holster. BUT no ability to single action. Considering it's not a range gun but an up close and personal fast into action defensive piece I'm leaning towards the 642.
A detective here has one and I'm gonna take it home tonight and show Mrs. Bawanna and see what she thinks. I'm a firm believer that she needs to make the choice, not me but I want to give her the right things to consider being she's like me sort of challenged, blonde, left handed and hitched to me.

Pile your thoughts on me unless the blonde left handed thing ticked you off in which case pretend I didn't say that being the PC kind of guy I am.

Everyone knows how I feel about this.
A centennial with and action job just sings.
The only real decision is air weight or all stainless steel.
I, when faced with difficult decision, do the only responsible thing.
I choose both- LOL!

My planned B-day present, an extended ported Isonite finish 357 barrel for my G27, is going to be 2 to 3 weeks late.
Clearly this is unacceptable.
What special can I buy myself and get in days flat?
My Storm Lake 40 barrel arrived today - Woo Hoo.
G27 40 is 3.46" from Midway = $140 and 3 days delivery
G27 extended is 4.16" from Storm Lake = $175 and 4-6 weeks delivery
But...
G23 40 is 4.02" = $140 from Midway and 3 days delivery

I happen to know a G23 barrel will drop right in my G27!
Happy B-day to me (tomorrow actually)
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/view.jsp#idx=1&page=1&album=all&userNs=18134511738http://kahrtalk.com/myalbum/photos/photo26/9f/e0/642241d6d012__1329242011000.jpghttp://kahrtalk.com/myalbum/photos/photo26/9f/e0/642241d6d012__1329242011000.jpghttps://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo26/9f/e0/642241d6d012__1329242011000.jpg
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/view.jsp#idx=1&page=1&album=all&userNs=18134511738

[Bawanna]

That's a new factor in the equation as well. I just got the 642 dropped at my desk and this puppy is light! I asked him about recoil and he kind of stammered and mention magna porting.
I'm perfectly ok with magna porting and will probably do that anyway but I'm thinking maybe all stainless with the little more weight might be a better choice for the wife. Too much recoil and it will turn her off like a light switch. I intend to build some of what I affectionately refer too as my little girl loads for her to practice but want factory standard velocity ammo for her to carry.

I'm gonna go search Smith for stainless options.

[Barth]

That's a new factor in the equation as well. I just got the 642 dropped at my desk and this puppy is light! I asked him about recoil and he kind of stammered and mention magna porting.
I'm perfectly ok with magna porting and will probably do that anyway but I'm thinking maybe all stainless with the little more weight might be a better choice for the wife. Too much recoil and it will turn her off like a light switch. I intend to build some of what I affectionately refer too as my little girl loads for her to practice but want factory standard velocity ammo for her to carry.

I'm gonna go search Smith for stainless options.

S&W 640 Pro with Pachmayr Compac grips.

BTW My 11.1 oz titanium air weight feels very much like an all steel 357 mag with +P 38s.

[jeepster09]

I have both the hammerless and the hammer type. If just for carry go with the hammerless. I also have the steel and the titanium, both are magnaported. I did not like shooting either before the porting. After porting to run 50 rounds through it is no big deal. YOU MUST GET PORTED!

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv276/jeepster09/IMG_0975.jpg


http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv276/jeepster09/IMG_1253.jpg

[kayl]

Who did your front sight installs?

[Bawanna]

Jeepster, did you have Magna Port do yours or Ahlmans? I'm thinking now I'm gonna see what she thinks about the 642 (no key if I can find one). I'll make some light practice loads and get it ported. If I send it to Ahlmans (I gotta try em sooner or later right?) I'll have them work the trigger some.

Just not many stainless options especially hammerless. While Taurus is better than the old days I'm not gonna go that route for her.

[jeepster09]

I have Magnaport do all my porting, not that Ahlman's can't port; it's just that I have been using Magnaport since the early 80's and I feel don't mess with success. Actually, Ahlman's sends my gun to Magnaport and then does other tweaking when they get it back. Before I started going to Ahlman's I would have Magnaport do an action job [they offer full service also].

Stay away from the Taurus Revolvers, horrible actions in them with very stiff trigger that can have little done to improve.

[Bawanna]

I have Magnaport do all my porting, not that Ahlman's can't port; it's just that I have been using Magnaport since the early 80's and I feel don't mess with success. Actually, Ahlman's sends my gun to Magnaport and then does other tweaking when they get it back. Before I started going to Ahlman's I would have Magnaport do an action job [they offer full service also].

Stay away from the Taurus Revolvers, horrible actions in them with very stiff trigger that can have little done to improve.

Didn't know that Magna Port did action jobs too. I like what they did to my K40 so I'd lean towards sending it to them. Might send my PM45 top end too although it really don't need it.
You might have just lost a commission check from Ahlmans for this but thanks for the information anyhow. I suspect I'll have a relationship with Ahlmans before my days are over.

[Bawanna]

Well it appears maybe my dilemma has been solved. I brought home the 642 and she didn't seem impressed. We talked about trigger job, double action only, magna porting yadda yadda yadda........
So I went out to the man cave and brought my Colt Cobra out again. I had it out for her months ago and she didn't seem impressed, said she wanted her SP101 in 22 so I put it away.
She didn't remember that at all. Thought the Colt trigger was nice, (it's really nice) and thought the nickel plating was classy and my own ebony grips.

So it looks like I'm maybe out a Colt Cobra which means I can spend that much on something else.? Am I right or what?

[Bawanna]

http://kahrtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=810&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1317133587

Here's an earlier picture of the Cobra. I miss it already.

[Barth]

http://kahrtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=810&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1317133587

Here's an earlier picture of the Cobra. I miss it already.

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Screen-shot-2011-02-14-at-9.46.34-AM.jpg

[JFootin]

She has good taste, Bawanna. I think that will serve her well.

[Zippo Guy]

Bawanna: What is your opinion of the nickel finish? Any problems? I just picked up a shiney nickeled S & W 36. I was thinking of going with another finish.

[Bawanna]

Bawanna: What is your opinion of the nickel finish? Any problems? I just picked up a shiney nickeled S & W 36. I was thinking of going with another finish.

I bought this Cobra probably about 1975 or so new. I had a blued Agent first but it got stolen so I went Cobra. I carried it for years and the finish has held up very well. It's just starting to kind of get little pin point spots, hardly noticeable. I'd much prefer a stainless but it's worked good for me.
I'm considering trying to find another hammer so it can be bobbed. About the only downfall is the hammer hanging up.

[MW surveyor]

Well, S&W has had the gun now for 10 days and no update from them.

Ordered the Wolff shooters pack yesterday for the j frame and it will be 10 days before they even get to sending it out. They are extremely busy as I can imagine.

When everything comes in, I'll do a trigger job on the 638 and let you know how that goes.

[Maverick64]

So, the smith 642 or 638 rides in your pockets easier than a PM9?

[JFootin]

So, the smith 642 or 638 rides in your pockets easier than a PM9?

I'll give my humble opinion based on limited experience. My 638, while a little longer, rides much better in my pocket thn my CM9 does. Something about the shape of the gun and the grip makes it very easy to draw, and it has a thinner profile overall. Of course, the cylinder is its thickest part, but the frame is just 1/2" wide and the barrel is thinner than that. The boot grips that most come with nowadays are quite thin. And, when you look at the CM9 or any semi-auto, the slide is almost an inch wide and tall all the way from the front to a point well behind where the gun is gripped, whereas the revolver is very thin everywhere except the cylinder, and the top of the frame ends well in front of where the gun is gripped. So, I see a great advantage in pocket carry for the 638 compared to the CM9, which rides perfectly in a good IWB holster.

[MW surveyor]

Can't report on the PM9 as I have a CW9. In that respect, the j frame is better in regular jeans pockets. I believe that if I had a PM9 or CM9 there would not be much difference between them and the j frame. In my cargo pants, it is a wash up. The CW9 rides well in the cargo pants and is easy to draw.

The j frame is or at least "feels" smaller. The major difference is that the j frame is much more rounded with nothing to catch the inside of the pocket. In addition, the grip is much smaller and shorter than the autos not having to hold any rounds.

[JFootin]

Basically the snubbies are intended for use with a 2 handed grip- one hand holds the revolver, other hand holds the shoulder of your target. http://cdn.firearmstalk.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

[jocko]

I like my J frames, I just shot it so bad compared to my PM9 which I don;'t shoot good either but alot better. My best J frame was a Model 342 with CT grips on it, This gun was a real shooter and so so light to, but very unpleasant to shoot for fun.

I think JFootin is dead right though. It's a hand shakin gun, IMO.

[MW surveyor]

Whoa! With this thread back from the dead, just realized that I never gave you guys an update.

Well, there was a slight problem with the return of the gun to my local gun shop and the gun went back to S&W. Got that straightened out and finally got it back to me. In reality, the repair was done within a week.

No real explanation outside of "replaced cylinder" Duh

Did a trigger job on it when it got back and improved the DA quite a bit. Still not as good as the CW9 or my SP101 but is much better.

Have shot it a number of times since the trigger job. Gotta say that it will be good at JFootin's "two hands" range. It is not real fun to shoot but it still gets fired at least for 25 rounds per range visit. My grouping at 7 yards is about 6" or so.

Have to admit, it does carry well.

[JFootin]

I was reading results from a Google search about proper sight picture for a J-frame and found that humerous quote in a forum post. I wanted to know why that front sight blade is so tall, and what the sight picture should look like. As it turns out, the sight picture at 10 yards or less should be with the top of that tall front blade even with the top of the rear sight. The reason is that, with a revolver, the recoil and muzzle rise begin before the bullet is clear of the barrel. So, a snubby such as my S&W 638 Airweight will shoot poa/poi with 158gr ammo and a flat sight picture at that distance. For further distances and with lighter ammo, you should sight with the blade a little above the rear sight. I will practice with it at the range, shooting slowly in SA mode, to know more about how to align the sights when a carefully placed or longer distance shot is needed. But I strongly suspect that I will be point and shooting in a SD situation. And I find this gun to be very naturally pointable when held at belly or chest level, both eyes open and on the BG.

[jocko]

Point and shoot is what I always did, course I never hit anything bu tit felt normal..

[MW surveyor]

When you use the "two hands" method, not much to point at.........more of a shove :)

[Barth]

I have no real explanation for it.
But feel I can draw my J-Frames faster from a pocket than my MK40
or other compact auto.

I can, and have, carried several different autos in my front pocket.
Always end up coming back to the J-Frames.
There's good reason why they are the bar everything else is compared to.
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo39/2e/a7/7cd5937932b7__1337543518000.jpg

[JFootin]

Have to admit, it does carry well.

Me, too. I am finding this gun enjoyable to carry. Something about the weight distribution and the grip angle make it so easy to handle and draw, and it draws easier from a front pocket than even smaller semi-autos. The cylinder is the only part of it that is as wide as most semi-autos are from front to back and top to bottom. The frame is just 1/2" thick and the barrel is even narrower. The Hogue Bantam one piece rubber grip (which I love) has palm swells about an inch wide and is otherwise very compact.

I am really enjoying my 638 since I got the trigger job that reduced the DA trigger pull to 4.25 lb. I can pull that easily without the barrel jerking off target. Of course the SA trigger release is a very light touch. I have learned to keep my finger clear of the trigger entirely until I get the gun on target and am ready to fire. No laying a relaxed finger on that trigger without it going off!

Hey, if a J-frame is good enough for Lenny Briscoe, it'll work for me! :D

[MW surveyor]

Are the Hogue Bantams much longer than the stock rubber grips that came on the 638? If they are not too much bigger may have to go out and get one.

[Barth]

Are the Hogue Bantams much longer than the stock rubber grips that came on the 638? If they are not too much bigger may have to go out and get one.

I don't know about the 638.
Both my 342 ti and 640-1 had Uncle Mikes boot grips.
Now they both have Hogue Bantams.
The bantams are smaller and lighter.
I think they may well be some of the smallest and lightest
J-frame grips available.

With not screws or any hardware it's really an outstanding design.
The fit and feel is pure Hogue.

BTW The Bantams are flush length???
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo32/5a/0a/52fcf84c4c96__1337556087000.jpg

[TheTman]

Bawanna,
Perhaps if the wife likes her .22 so much, maybe a .22 magnum would do the trick?
I know you don't like Taurus, but they have a nifty model DA with a 9 shot cylinder, plus it has cylinders for both .22 and .22 magnum. Only thing is not sure if they have one in a J frame size. I think maybe the smallest they have is in a 4" barrel. Charter Arms has a 6 shot DA with interchangeble cylinders, and I do believe it's available with a 2 inch barrel. I have a Charter Arms .44 snubbie, from the latest incarnation of Charter Arms, and it's not a bad little gun. A friend bought one of those Charter Arms Pathfinders, with .22 and .22 mag cylinders and really likes it. I know Taurus and Charter Arms aren't keepsakes, but they sure beat a rock, and are less expensive than the name brands.

[JFootin]

Are the Hogue Bantams much longer than the stock rubber grips that came on the 638? If they are not too much bigger may have to go out and get one.

With the Bantam, the back and bottom of the frame are exposed just like the stock grips. Overall, they are a little less bulky than the stock Uncle Mike's Boot Grips. They have nice palm swells and perfect tactile rubber feel. Another plus is that they clear speed loaders better than the stock grips.

[MW surveyor]

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll take a look at them. The stock grips are actually OK with regard to concealment but are a bit painful to shoot with.

[les strat]

With the Bantam, the back and bottom of the frame are exposed just like the stock grips. Overall, they are a little less bulky than the stock Uncle Mike's Boot Grips. They have nice palm swells and perfect tactile rubber feel. Another plus is that they clear speed loaders better than the stock grips.

Plus, you can get the bantams in wood, although a little pricey. You can see a pic of my 642 with pao ferro bantams in the "Wheel Guns" thread. One of the latter posts. The definitley do not take up any more real estate than the stockers on most j-frames.

[MW surveyor]

Thanks for the input all.

Will probably stick with rubber or other non-wood since this thing will most likely become a "beater". Not that I'd abuse it just that it will not ever be a safe queen or BBQ gun :)

[les strat]

LOL, I know what you mean. I just thought the Hogue rubber was too "grippy" and hangs on clothing worse than the stock j-frame rubber grips. Those wood bantams come out of pocket like greased lightning!

[Barth]

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll take a look at them. The stock grips are actually OK with regard to concealment but are a bit painful to shoot with.

I just finished shooting my S&W 640-1 with the Bantam grips and
a box of 357 Magnum Golden Sabers.

I was surprised how easy the gun is to handle and shoot.
Plus, with the Big Dot sight, trigger job and smooth combat trigger
the gun is reasonably accurate at close range.

SWEET!
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/photos/photo26/45/9f/c21647c4fd59__1337635572000.jpg