Trigger won't "reset" on my new p45

[bcj36287]

I use quotes because since its a striker fired system. Problem is anywhere from one to three times a magazine where I go to squeeze and nothing. It's as crappy of a feeling as putting your foot down on a clutch that lost all its fluid. If I put my finger behind the trigger I can nudge it forward about as much as a computer mouse button would click and then I'm good to go.
Facts:

-it does it with any live rounds I use. -never does it dry firing and racking the slide repeatedly.
-won't do it through a full mag of snap caps either.
-gun was very very clean and not lathered completely up with lube before the range trip. Just a nice application on the important parts.

I posted these pics on another thread asking if this was normal wear and dirt for a new gun. I didn't ask in that thread, but if you look closely you can see a rough file-job on the striker sear thingamajig. I don't see how that could be the source of problem. But it just looks to rough to be factory to me.

Any thoughts new friends?

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[Ikeo74]

First, we all would like to know how many rounds you, yourself have fired in this gun before taking the pictures.

Second, I think the problem is your trigger pull. Watch the next time you are firing this gun, are you shooting and then not releasing the trigger to go forward? The trigger has to have pressure released after each shot fired to "reset" itself. This takes a 1/2" release to reset the trigger. It is common to not release it enough to reset. I have done it myself on occasion. When it happens next time try to immiately release the trigger after shooting a live round.

[bcj36287]

Pics were taken right after I bought it. I do release the trigger all the way. Like I said, I can nudge the trigger forward just a tad bit to make it reset.

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[ripley16]

Try cleaning the tab of the trigger bar that is exposed on the right rear portion of the frame, easily seen with the slide removed. Also clean the interior areas where the trigger bar moves throught the mag cavity. Gunk can cause the trigger bar to not fully move forward after a shot.

[Dirt doc]

Maybe a dumb question but what climate are you in? I had some trigger issues on a very cold day after getting a little agressive with lube the previous cleaning. The problem cleared once the gun warmed up.

[OldLincoln]

Just tossing out a couple things you may have already tried.
1. Is slide fully engaged? Try a good hit with the heel of your hand before anything else next time it doesn't fire.

2. The trigger disconnect is that shiny piece just above the right grip, visible with the slide removed.
a) Put a drop of oil between it and the frame.
b) Pull the trigger (it will move forward) then push it down gently (I use the tip of a metal finger nail file). It will click and lock down. Slowly release the trigger and it will move back and should click and pop up (re-engaging the trigger) when it gets to the rear.

If it doesn't pop up try another drop and work it as above. If it just doesn't pop up you can try flushing it with brake cleaner and start over with oil. I'm guessing there is sludge in there hanging it up. In fact if you are familiar with the brake cleaner you might flush it first then oil and work it. The clicks should be sharp and definite. If it drags, it needs cleaning.

So what could cause that? One is the oil used. I would not use an oil that is thick in those areas. I use Gunzilla because it is lightweight and I clean after every session. I'm sure there are better oils out there but I avoid any that are thick and can gum tight areas with repeated applications and no flushing.

[CJB]

On this forum... we hear a fair number of complaints regarding new or nearly new pistols with triggers that dont reset. The reset point on the Kahr's I've examined is not very close fit - that is - upon trigger forward movement, the trigger still moves forward a good deal before finally stopping. That being the case, I'm convinced that most "reset" problems are really just reset symptoms for which another real problem is the cause. Thinking some on that line of reasoning, I cant help but suspect a bit of loose plastic flashing or debris, as we see on the slide rails and such, getting down into the space that the trigger bar rides in.

I'm wondering what a real good shot of compressed air would do... without any other disassembly other than field stripping.

[TheTman]

My CW45 started doing that and got worse and worse until I sent it back to Kahr. They fixed it and had it back to me in 7 days.
Summary of work performed:

REWORK SIDE PANEL,TRIGGER BAR SPRING.REPLACED SLIDE STOP
SPRING,RECOIL SPRING GUIDE.LUBED TEST FIRE GOOD.

[bcj36287]

Try cleaning the tab of the trigger bar that is exposed on the right rear portion of the frame, easily seen with the slide removed. Also clean the interior areas where the trigger bar moves throught the mag cavity. Gunk can cause the trigger bar to not fully move forward after a shot.

The tab was very clean before firing it as well as the bar.


Maybe a dumb question but what climate are you in? I had some trigger issues on a very cold day after getting a little agressive with lube the previous cleaning. The problem cleared once the gun warmed up.

It was only about 50 degrees in Florida, but it still does it with snap caps here in my bedroom where it's warm.


Just tossing out a couple things you may have already tried.
1. Is slide fully engaged? Try a good hit with the heel of your hand before anything else next time it doesn't fire.

2. The trigger disconnect is that shiny piece just above the right grip, visible with the slide removed.
a) Put a drop of oil between it and the frame.
b) Pull the trigger (it will move forward) then push it down gently (I use the tip of a metal finger nail file). It will click and lock down. Slowly release the trigger and it will move back and should click and pop up (re-engaging the trigger) when it gets to the rear.

If it doesn't pop up try another drop and work it as above. If it just doesn't pop up you can try flushing it with brake cleaner and start over with oil. I'm guessing there is sludge in there hanging it up. In fact if you are familiar with the brake cleaner you might flush it first then oil and work it. The clicks should be sharp and definite. If it drags, it needs cleaning.

So what could cause that? One is the oil used. I would not use an oil that is thick in those areas. I use Gunzilla because it is lightweight and I clean after every session. I'm sure there are better oils out there but I avoid any that are thick and can gum tight areas with repeated applications and no flushing.

The slide is definitely in full battery. I only had a small ammount of CLP on the surfaces of the trigger sear and cam.


On this forum... we hear a fair number of complaints regarding new or nearly new pistols with triggers that dont reset. The reset point on the Kahr's I've examined is not very close fit - that is - upon trigger forward movement, the trigger still moves forward a good deal before finally stopping. That being the case, I'm convinced that most "reset" problems are really just reset symptoms for which another real problem is the cause. Thinking some on that line of reasoning, I cant help but suspect a bit of loose plastic flashing or debris, as we see on the slide rails and such, getting down into the space that the trigger bar rides in.

I'm wondering what a real good shot of compressed air would do... without any other disassembly other than field stripping.

I think there might be something keeping the trigger disconnect tab from returning to normal. Like I said, when I get no "trigger reset", I nudge the trigger forward from behind and it clicks into place. I have now noticed that when that happens, I can watch the trigger reset tab click back to its normal "up" position. Funny thing is that as that tab clicks back up, it also has an outward movement away from the center of the gun. Hard to explain, but if you were looking at the tab from the side, it comes towards you as it travels back up. There is not much room inside that semi-circle shaped cavity for the tab to move side to side, so I wonder how that happens.

I said before that it doesn't do it with the snap-caps, but that was when i was just casually racking the slide and chambering a round. If I rack the hell out of it (which feels like i'm shredding the skin off my hand on the slide serrations), it will do it quite often.

Another thing I've noticed is that with the slide off, I can insert a magazine and the cam that activates the firing pin block rides on it thus changing the neutral position of the cams.

[wyntrout]

I don't have a P45, but I have the P40 and a PM45. I've taken both apart and the one thing that seems out of place is the striker safety block. It's different and seems a bit twisted in position. Both of mine are identical and have a small semicircular bit instead of the large one on the outside of the one in the picture.

The two pictures are of my P40 (SS) and the PM45 DLC.

Wynn:)

[CJB]

I said before that it doesn't do it with the snap-caps, but that was when i was just casually racking the slide and chambering a round. If I rack the hell out of it (which feels like i'm shredding the skin off my hand on the slide serrations), it will do it quite often.

So it sounds like when the slide is pushing down on the "tab" (as you call it), a fast moving slide is driving the trigger bar into something, whereas easy cycling is not. Again... something is rubbing. Whether its the trigger bar being not right, some plastic bit that has shaved out... hard to say unless you lift up the side plate and look.

If the pistol is going back to Kahr... clean it well.. perfectly in fact... see how filthy it looks upon return

[wyntrout]

I'm still concerned with the striker safety block... it being different and looking out of position. Does this pistol have a safety to warrant the different safety block??

Edit: 2 more closeups of the P40 striker safety block

Wynn

[bcj36287]

Maybe my P45 is an older model and has a different type of firing pin block? I know I have the kind with the side plate that has no torx screw but just a flat head pin.

As far as a vigorous slide racking with snapcaps (or actual live fire cycling) goes, Something must be getting forced into a position where there might be some excess polymer or flashing. The only thing I can think of is the magazine creating a cramped environment. The cam rides on it, and also the trigger bar touches the front of it right before its neutral position.

Either way, this thing will be going back to Kahr soon.

[wyntrout]

Be sure and email your concerns along with the pictures to Kahr Customer Service. Unless someone else can compare the back of the striker and the safety block, that's where I see a big difference. I put two more closeups of my P40 in that area.

Oh, my P40 is still dirty from the last trip to the range. it was the only pistol I took that day and I wiped it off and reloaded it for CCW after the range.

Wynn:)

[bcj36287]

Thank you very much for the the advice and pictures :) Lets hope Kahr takes care of it.

[JFootin]

Maybe my P45 is an older model and has a different type of firing pin block? I know I have the kind with the side plate that has no torx screw but just a flat head pin.

As far as a vigorous slide racking with snapcaps (or actual live fire cycling) goes, Something must be getting forced into a position where there might be some excess polymer or flashing. The only thing I can think of is the magazine creating a cramped environment. The cam rides on it, and also the trigger bar touches the front of it right before its neutral position.

Either way, this thing will be going back to Kahr soon.

This begs the question: does it do it with the magazine removed?

[bcj36287]

This begs the question: does it do it with the magazine removed?

Only with a magazine IN.

[JFootin]

Only with a magazine IN.

OK. So it is definite that the magazine is interfering with the trigger mechanism somehow. Kahr CS needs to look at it.

[CJB]

Wasn't there an issue with trigger springs rubbing magazines?

[CJB]

Just checked my three year old PM45.... same as Wyntrouts. Its all I have handy, but I can almost guarantee my 8 month old PM45 is the same way.

Maybe this is new type? Circular hole being simpler?

[BEARDOG]

Have you tried a few different magazines? does it happen with all of them?

[bcj36287]

Yes, the two that it came with.

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[rb288]

Here is a picture of my CW45 compared to yours.
There is an obvious difference in the design. Mine is fairly new, it looks like yours may be an earlier version, maybe?

Not sure what the difference is but there does seem to be quite a bit of wear on your parts. No offense, but I don't think you have a "new" gun.

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