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CJB
02-17-2012, 08:00 PM
Well....

Story goes like this -
I'm taking apart my PM45 to KKote it, and the striker guide flew someplace... its in the room... someplace. No idea where. Searched.

Ok, I wanted to make a stainless one, so now is the opportunity.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/bandersnatchreverb/Firearms/P2170128.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/bandersnatchreverb/Firearms/P2170131.jpg

I couldn't copy the original... lost it. My black PM45 is here... didn't want to take it down (lazy).

So I had to measure and sorta by guess and by golly it. Got it right!

I'll have some KKote pics in a little bit.

mr surveyor
02-17-2012, 08:07 PM
and you did all that starting with a 3x3x3 inch block of stainless steel and a 6 inch rat tail file?:)

very nice work, I hope it proves successful

CJB
02-17-2012, 08:11 PM
I started with a #12 pan head machine screw (stainless).

Held the end of the threads in my drill... ground off the threads with Mr Dremel and a grinding wheel, cleaned it up with a nice little 1/2 inch mill bastard file, ground the head flat with a grinding wheel (still in the drill), ground it to rough size, cleaned up the diameter with the file (still in the drill) and then hit the hole thing with a nice Cratex wheel to get a good surface finish. THEN, cut off the threaded section at the end, chuck up the head of the guide and trim, round and slightly taper the end.

So, to answer the question: "Almost!" :)

Bawanna
02-17-2012, 08:14 PM
You don't anticipate any negative impact on the inertia attributed to the additional weight?

Dang, that's probably the most intelligently worded stupid question I've ever asked.

CJB
02-17-2012, 08:21 PM
Good point... lets think this through.

At firing time, the slide moving backward may allow the rod to become "unseated".

On the other hand, the striker spring is not fully relaxed, there is still a lot of "preload" on it when its at its greatest length in the assembled slide.

Its a valid question Bawanna. I guess I'm gonna have to shoot it some and find out.

The rear plate is held in place by the pin holding the extractor spring (and striker lock). I dont think we could have the plate fall out, but who knows... I'll have to shoot it and see how it goes.

The obligatory 200 rounds should suffice

mr surveyor
02-17-2012, 08:48 PM
if you need to lighten it up, Bawanna can whittle you one out of a broom stick:D

CJB
02-17-2012, 08:51 PM
at least he didn't start with an entire Hickory tree

wyntrout
02-17-2012, 08:52 PM
Dang! He called the file a ba$tard!! How can you permit that, bawanna!:eek:

Wynn:rolleyes:

ripley16
02-17-2012, 08:54 PM
I'm impressed. Really!

wyntrout
02-17-2012, 08:56 PM
OMG! He can probably get $20 to $30 apiece for those who want SS stuff! It's a new must-have like the SS recoil guide! It helps reduce recoil with the added weight... 3-4 grams??

Bravo!

Wynn:D

Krusty
02-17-2012, 09:06 PM
;)I hope that the stainless panhead screw wasn't made in china...

Bawanna
02-17-2012, 09:22 PM
Dang! He called the file a ba$tard!! How can you permit that, bawanna!:eek:

Wynn:rolleyes:

Oh my, I thought he was talking about me. Glad it was the file.

Bawanna
02-17-2012, 09:25 PM
You know it looks cool! That makes it an automatic winner in my book. I don't really see why it won't work but I'm still chewing it in my mind. Anxious to see if it does.

CJB
02-18-2012, 07:31 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/bandersnatchreverb/Firearms/P2180149.jpg

There ya go, all fit (had to trim the head maybe .001" was just a trifle tight.

Doesn't look bad. Hand cycling shows no interference or obvious functional flaws. Shootin' will tell.

Nice KKote on the inside of the slide too :rolleyes:

jocko
02-18-2012, 07:43 PM
just to much damn talent on this forum, we gonna have to make some serious changes between GB, now CJB, WYN and oh yes the great GRIP MAN HIMSELF-- Bawanna
whatta forum..

mr surveyor
02-19-2012, 08:42 PM
where's the range test update???????

surv:)

WI carrier
02-19-2012, 09:36 PM
what size screw do you figure you need to make a spare spring:crazy:?

gb6491
02-19-2012, 09:37 PM
Nice work CJBhttp://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-fc/goodjob.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)
Regards,
Greg

CJB
02-19-2012, 09:46 PM
what size screw do you figure you need to make a spare spring:crazy:?

Not so crazy after all. I got springs, some manufacturing experience, and a business lesson all in one.....back in about 1986 or so.

When Colt came out with the stainless Cobra model .357, there was no Wolff springs for it. I had a Cobra, which I took down to the mold shop, where they EDM'd Colt Python type "vents" in it. Bad ass for its day, but it still had a stiff action. Back at my shop, I played for a few weeks with a new found stash of music wire. I ended up winding Colt Cobra mainsprings, on a screw set in the lathe, and later, I made up a jig to turn 'em out by the scores. Bossman at the time "EdW" said - how much you gonna sell them for? I said... well... lets see, I can make about four a minute, the wire is like two cents...lets sell 'em for about two bucks each. Nope. Ol' smarty Ed says - "we'll sell 'em for the same price as Wolff's other springs", and that was about $10 back then for a kit of two or three. I got two bucks bonus on each one sold in our shop. His reasoning - very sound thinking I might add - it's not the cost of production, but the perceived value in the market that sets the price. We sold a spring kit with every new Cobra, and folks came from other shops to get our springs.

So... screw's and springs... yah... they go together.

TucsonMTB
02-19-2012, 10:48 PM
Nice! I wonder if it would be possible to add a small hole that could be used, along with a pin tool to compress the striker spring when doing a full tear down of the slide. The current technique of holding the striker with a tool while removing the back plate works, but could possibly be improved upon?

Now you've done it. I'll have to make one too, just to test that theory. Good thing you blazed the trail to follow. :)

CJB
02-19-2012, 11:26 PM
I had that idea! There's a post on it here... but I have a better idea!

Cut a tiny slot in the plate, so you can retract it from underneath. That way, no external hole.

CJB
02-21-2012, 12:00 AM
Just put a little bevel on the plastic or metal pin... as shown in red. That way you can grab it easily with a small flat screwdriver, scribe... anything that fits in the bevel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/bandersnatchreverb/Firearms/P2180149b.jpg

TucsonMTB
02-21-2012, 12:06 PM
That makes sense now, thanks! :)

I believe the roughly double thick head of your metal pin helps make a notch practical.

It may be a while before I follow your lead because I so seldom completely disassemble the top end for cleaning.

Thank you again for all the attention to details!

TucsonMTB
02-22-2012, 12:08 AM
Hey, CJB!

Here's what I was trying to describe. That's 1/64" hole in striker spring guide.

http://viewsfromtucson.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/2-Guide-Rod-and-Pin-Cropped.jpg

And here is what it looks like while assembling the slide. The process was a little easier.

http://viewsfromtucson.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/1-Guide-Rod-Cropped.jpg

Might get a chance to test fire tomorrow and then, perhaps, another tear down just to see how it works.

In reality, there's not much to be gained since I found no junk in any part of the slide this evening. :rolleyes:

CJB
02-22-2012, 12:39 AM
What did you use to make that one? Looks nice BTW

TucsonMTB
02-22-2012, 12:54 AM
What did you use to make that one? Looks nice BTW
Thanks for the kind words! :)

I just followed your example except that for my first step, I drilled a 1/64" hole through the side of the shaft of the pan head screw I found in my junk drawer. I have a small Craftsman drill press and a small machinist's vise that made drilling the hole pretty easy.

I also cheated by pulling out the plastic guide rod for dimensions. And, I am more comfortable with a big Nicholson file than a Dremel, so I chucked the drilled screw in the drill press and filed away until it pretty well matched the plastic original. The screw I started with should have been a little larger, so I ended up with an about .002" smaller shaft.

Everything was easy to put back together. Admittedly, it has been so long since my last tear down that I don't really remember how hard it was last time. It was also surprising that there was really no dirt or debris anywhere.

Thank you for mapping out a fun project! :D

TucsonMTB
02-22-2012, 06:58 PM
Total success!

As you certainly would expect, the range session today was just a normal day at the range. Comparing the indent in the primer between spent rounds from the same lot of ammo, before and after replacing the striker spring guide . . . the strikes are now just a little deeper. At a quick glance they look about the same. But, using a loupe it is easy to see that the strike is now deeper.

When I was cleaning, I noticed that the guide had rotated about 40 degress, but it was easy to reach the hole and move it into an accessible position.

I rate the CJB Stainless Striker Guide a complete success! :D

CJB
02-22-2012, 07:30 PM
Hey nice! TY, TY, and TY....

Now about those royalty fees (ahem)!!!!

Glad it worked out. I haven't fired mine yet, probably wont till... couple of weeks, I'm snowed with crap to do.

TucsonMTB
02-23-2012, 11:08 AM
In the off chance you need to make any adjustments, here are the dimensions measured from my original Kahr PM40 part. Hopefully this info will save you from having to retrieve your remaining original from your other gun. This presumes that Kahr uses one molded plastic part across the entire line.
Overall length: 0.900"
Shaft diameter: 0.125"
Head flange thickness 0.050"
Head flange diameter: 0.310"
The position that seems to work reasonably well for an added hole to help with take down and assembly is 0.450" from the flange. A 1/64" drill bit seemed to work well enough.

All of these measurements were made with a cheap, plastic, dial indicating calipers hence the zeros in the least significant digit, but should be very close since they were repeated several times.

gb6491
02-23-2012, 06:40 PM
Hey, CJB!

Here's what I was trying to describe. That's 1/64" hole in striker spring guide.

http://viewsfromtucson.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/2-Guide-Rod-and-Pin-Cropped.jpg

And here is what it looks like while assembling the slide. The process was a little easier.

http://viewsfromtucson.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/1-Guide-Rod-Cropped.jpg

Might get a chance to test fire tomorrow and then, perhaps, another tear down just to see how it works.

In reality, there's not much to be gained since I found no junk in any part of the slide this evening. :rolleyes:
NICE!:cheer2:
You two esteemed gentlemen have done well, please download immediately:
http://i43.tinypic.com/33abeok.jpg
Regards,
Greg

muggsy
02-23-2012, 06:45 PM
Whenever I don't have a flat bastard file to work with I improvise and use one of those little round MFers. :)

gb6491
02-23-2012, 07:59 PM
Thanks, Greg! That means a lot coming from a true master gunsmith! :)
LOL, you're welcome, but I've got the same diploma :D. I have to say I'm more partial to the "Bubba" school of thought in regards to gunsmithinghttp://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-fc/construction.gif (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=515246
Regards,
Greg

CJB
02-23-2012, 09:25 PM
Thanks for the kind words!~

CJB
02-23-2012, 11:52 PM
Innovative, workable... at least semi-spec elevation... whats not to like?