Bought My Last New Smith Revolver

[ltxi]

Bit of a rant that maybe really shows my age.

I've been smithing my own Smith revolver actions since forever but hadn't done one in over 10 years. Also have probably never worked on anything newer than than 15+ years old.

Despite already having three excellent carry J-frames, I bought an M&P 340 NL a few months ago for it's ability to handle a steady diet of +P if I wanted and it's great front sight. Ran it in a bit then simply changed the main and trigger rebound springs for something lighter that worked for the moment with the intent of doing a decent action job when I had time.

That time came this past weekend. I stripped it, took the lock work apart, took a good look at all internals and fitting, then just put it all back together because I decided it wasn't something I wanted to waste my time and talent(?) on.

I swear.....when looking at some of those bits and the internal wear patterns, the name RG jumped into my brain. I realize that's not at all a fair real comparison and understand all the positive arguments about MIM, competitiveness, and current production realities, but I just can't help it. M&P 340 is now a "yeah, I'll carry it but it's disposable" gun....as opposed to my older carry J-frames that I suddenly find more a lot more appealing/precious.

Just my opinion and flaming graciously accepted.

[scotty_MK9]

I have never gotten into the airweight revolver thing... I just always thought they looked so much better with shiny stainless steel. And i never intended to pocket carry anyways so the extra weight isnt a burden.

The only airweight i ever bought was a model 637 and it kicked hard even with standered pressure loads. Not at all fun. But i guess they arent made to be fun to shoot. I also noticed the finish was very prone to nicks and scratches which sucked too.

[kahrnut1]

i used to do my j frame action jobs back in 60s & 70s and i still have a couple of those guns. i bought the first 340 pd to hit this area and the action sucked and i did not try to fix it i just carried it about a year. i was in lgs talking to owner one day and customer came in & wanted to trade a 340 pd that some shop in nc had done a action job on & the action was as good as any i have tried including some done by smiths custom shop. i encourged my lgs owner to make the trade and i bought it on the spot. i dont know what was done but it is a fine action

[CJB]

Ya know.... fwiw, ruger revolvers were never fit as well as the smith's but you could get a decent action job on them, smooth DA pull (and eliminate the hump in the pull) and clean crisp SA letoffs.

But, I know what ya mean. They just dont make 'em even as well as say... mid 90's

[340pd]

In a "need to use" situation can anyone really tell if a J Frame has a 12# or a 8# trigger? I have played with polishing surfaces and lighter springs and I opted for reliability by going back to stock springs and a few thousand dry fire trigger pulls to let the action smooth out.

[Barth]

In a "need to use" situation can anyone really tell if a J Frame has a 12# or a 8# trigger? I have played with polishing surfaces and lighter springs and I opted for reliability by going back to stock springs and a few thousand dry fire trigger pulls to let the action smooth out.

I think dealing with an adrenalin dump, shaking hands, tunnel vision and fearing for my life - I'm not going to be able to tell the trigger pull weight.

For me having a sweet trigger means more enjoyable practice,
instills confidence and maybe with a little luck my worst shot will still strike home.

[LaP]

No flaming warranted.
If you don't like the innards of the new S&W revolvers, so be it. Like any machine produced, the company usually tries to balance new technology with traditional tastes. Sometimes it doesn't work out.

[JFootin]

Well, I am no DIY expert, so I am paying $70 to have a really high end professional trigger and action job done on my new S&W 638. But I have had several smiths tell me that these pistols are designed to have that super stiff DA trigger and there are limits to what can be done with them.

Interesting because a local pawn shop owner unloaded his old used Model 10 and let me handle and dry fire it. I don't think it had had a trigger job done to it, but the DA trigger was maybe about 8 lb and quite smooth. Model 10s have a rep for their smooth triggers. Just saying, maybe they were made better back then. I am thinking seriously about getting one of those police used Model 10s that Bud's has for $269. Should I get round butt or square butt?

[jeepster09]

The best trigger I have EVER felt is on any of my Para Ordnance LDA pistols!
Outstanding....


http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv276/jeepster09/IMG_0495-1.jpg

[Bawanna]

I'd have to agree with that completely at least as far as double actions go. People not used to them don't like them right off but I sure do. Only downfall is the reset and I try not to dwell on that.

[ltxi]

In a "need to use" situation can anyone really tell if a J Frame has a 12# or a 8# trigger? I have played with polishing surfaces and lighter springs and I opted for reliability by going back to stock springs and a few thousand dry fire trigger pulls to let the action smooth out.

Yes, definitely, in terms of practical accuracy in very lw guns in practiced hands. Smoothness of the action is more important, but properly cleaning that up automatically generates a lighter trigger pull.

It wasn't until I started using the M&P 340 that I appreciated what a treasure my faithful old 442 companion really is/was. Kinda like dumping your wife for a newer, flashier model only to realize you've just shot yourself in the foot.

Also, this is one of the attractions of a Kahr...best out of the box da revolver trigger in the business.

[QuercusMax]

So I'm a bit behind (people keep telling me that - maybe they have a point).

I'm on the opposite end of the spectrum from Itxi, because I just bought my *first* new Smith revolver. In fact, it's my first wheel gun, although not what I expected to be my first (I'm just dying for a Colt SAA, for no real reason other than "cowboy cool").

I like my .22's a lot, so I just got a S&W 617 6". Haven't had time to take it out yet, but it sure is a nice chuck of metal. (Mmmmmm, metal) Sorry, haven't even had time for pictures yet - work and travel keep getting in the way.

[TheTman]

This thread got me to wondering about my 2 S&W revolvers, a mid 90's 629-4 .44 Magnum, and a brand new 686+ 7 shot .357. I haven't shot the 629 double action very much,so I doubt that I smoothed up the action any, I usually shoot it single action, but it's action was a bit smoother, lighter, and less "catchy" than the double action on my new 686, but I shoot it single action most of the time too. Maybe I'll start shooting some double action and see if it smooths out. I also want to get in there and take the lock out, so maybe I can do some honing while I'm in there and eliminate the "catches".

On the other hand, the trigger on my S&W M&P Pro 9mm, is the best double action trigger on a semi-auto I've ever dealt with. You take up about 3/8" of slack, then it breaks very crisply at about 4-5 lbs. The trigger is almost as good as shooting a single action gun, a bit heavier, but very crisp. Granted, the pro shop works these triggers over to get them that smooth. Not sure how a standard M&P feels, I guess they must be a little tougher, as I see a lot of trigger kits for the standard M&P.