Brand New CM9

[Blue150]

Picked up my new CM9 today and I am very impressed. There was just a little gunk on the siderails but I stripped the slide and did a little work before I shot it. There was a small burr on the slide at the lockup point of the ejection port so I cleaned it off and polished that portion of the slide that rides on top of the barrel block. I also polished the bottom of the stripper lug so it won't scratch the brass so much. Then I lubed up and went to the range.

100 rounds of 115 Ball and not the slightest indication of any trouble. I didn't rake the litter first at my range but since all the brass was falling three feet to my right perpendicular to the gun in a two foot circle it was easy to find. That was unlike my 1911 that scatters brass all over the place. Recoil was negligible which was surprising, I expected a bit more snap. Now I wish I had gotten the .40 but it will be cheaper to feed the 9MM.

Brought it back home, cleaned it and went to work on the slide flats. They now have a mirror finish after sanding for about an hour. I left the tapers and top matte, it looks pretty good if I say so myself and the slide grooves are almost dangerously sharp.

This tiny little gun shoots so well I might just give my 1911 to my youngest son when he turns 21. Crimson trace will be here in a few days and I expect to love it even more then.

Now I have to (twist my arm) run 100 rounds of my chosen defense ammo, Winchester PDX1 124 grain +P. It's not cheap but it's supposed to perform well from short barrels.

Nothin but grins...:D:);):p

[JFootin]

That's very cool, Blue! :)

Now you know why the symbol of our unorganized organization, the CM9 Owners Club, is :D!

Now, you need to know a club secret: the holster that is so small, so light, so thin and so comfortable that the gun and holster package becomes a part of your body and you cannot feel it there at all! I am talking about the PJ IWB Kydex Holster (http://pjholster.com/?page_id=37) with the over the belt clip. Here are some pics of it on the maker's Walther PPS (he owns a CM9, so molding is perfect).

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee486/John_England/Miscellanious%20Guns%20and%20Holsters/PJIWBBeltHookHolster-1.jpg

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee486/John_England/Miscellanious%20Guns%20and%20Holsters/PJIWBBeltHookHolsterBack.jpg

[Bill K]

Nice range report. Reading your post... though new to the CM9 it is easy to tell you're an experienced hand gunner. Looking forward to learning from your future contributions to KahrTalk.

[air8]

What? No pics of the new purchase? How dare you tease us like that. LoL. I'd like to learn more about the work you did? Did it help smooth the action of the CM9?

[Blue150]

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii482/GreenWenonah/PM9Mirrorslide.jpg

You'll notice that the reflection of the fir trees in the slide is way out of focus but the camera is eight inches from gun and seventy five feet from tree tops. Sure is pretty though (wrenches shoulder patting self on back).

The pre-range work:
I have seen a lot of people posting questions about the nickle plating coming off the front edge of the barrel block; It's not a functional problem but cosmetic. I decided to take some preemptive action to minimize this so was looking for that burr on the slide and found it. A strip of 440 removed the burr and rounded that edge ever so slightly. I followed it up with some 1000 just because... I then wrapped some 220 around a pink pencil eraser and started working on the flat bearing surface inside the slide that contacts the barrel followed by 440 and 1000. Nobody will ever see that nice shine but it should significantly reduce the worn plating issue on the barrel.

Since I had plenty of grit left I did the same routine on the stripper lug. Ammo in a carry gun ends up getting cycled in and out of the chamber a lot before it's fired and the brass can get chewed up. Besides, although powdered brass in the action can't do much harm it certainly isn't doing you any good. It also reduces the drag on the slide.

Post range work:
After the successful range run I did the 220/440/1000 routine on the slide flats for cosmetics and to reduce friction in the draw. I laid a piece of wet/dry (in the wet condition) on a piece of Formica mounted on 1" plywood and worked the slide diagonally one direction for 220, diagonally the other direction for 440 and lengthwise for 1000. This way you can see when you have gotten all the scratches from the previous grit out. I left the slide assembled so the extractor would get polished at the same time, then disassembled it and washed it with water, then dried, oiled and reassembled. If you do this yourself, make sure your sandpaper stays flat. My 440 curled a bit at the edges and my lines on the left side aren't quite as crisp.
I had to take it back apart because the top edge of the extractor had a knife edge that protrudes slightly when the chamber is loaded and would shred a holster. A couple passes with a diamond stone chamfered that edge.

I also did some "tap" tuning on the magazine (using magic marker to locate tight spots, then checking for follower binding) and polished it , straight to 1000 this time. The magazine now pops out almost all the way when ejected from the "gangster" hold but with a proper grip and gravity's help the magazine falls free every time.

Sometime soon I plan to disassemble the lower and polish every contact point in the trigger linkage. This thing already has a very nice trigger but it can always be a little better; since I'll have it apart to polish the trigger flats it would be foolish not to polish everything while it's open. I'm also going to put a mirror finish on the breach face. It's not showing any indications of dragging but since I'll have the stuff out anyway. The way I see it every bit of friction reduced will increase the margin between optimum clean and failure to cycle.

[Blue150]

That's very cool, Blue! :)

Now you know why the symbol of our unorganized organization, the CM9 Owners Club, is :D!

Now, you need to know a club secret: the holster that is so small, so light, so thin and so comfortable that the gun and holster package becomes a part of your body and you cannot feel it there at all! I am talking about the PJ IWB Kydex Holster (http://pjholster.com/?page_id=37) with the over the belt clip. Here are some pics of it on the maker's Walther PPS (he owns a CM9, so molding is perfect).


I've seen you espousing the merits of the JP holsters. I have some Kydex on the way and will be making my own holsters. I've been meaning to do that for my grandpa's Woodsman and Dad's Taurus anyway. Though I do like the JP concept I'll be building mine as a tuckable IWB. I'll post pictures when I've made one I'm happy with.

[jeepster09]

I am not a fan of kydex, I feel they are to rigid and are less concealable than leather. Leather will conform to your body as kydex pushs out and can become more visable when you are looking for maximum concealment.

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv276/jeepster09/IMG-20120205-00116.jpg

[JFootin]

I've seen you espousing the merits of the JP holsters. I have some Kydex on the way and will be making my own holsters. I've been meaning to do that for my grandpa's Woodsman and Dad's Taurus anyway. Though I do like the JP concept I'll be building mine as a tuckable IWB. I'll post pictures when I've made one I'm happy with.

Well, I shoulda known you'd make your own! :2rolleyes: Paul makes them tuckable as an option. Uses a seperate piece of kydex that is screwed/glued at the bottom of the holster, with a thin gap back up to the top, where it is folded over to form the clip. The angle you fold it at determines the cant. I'd go for some cant so you can carry it in 'the sweet spot' just behind the hip. Club salute - :D!

[Blue150]

I went to the range again today and blew through 35 rounds of Winchester PDX1. Ye old hollow point/slide stop demon stopped by to watch. Here are some key points of my experience today.

Seven shot strings from 6 round magazine.

Lock back occurred consistently after third bang and seventh bang (only one was unexpected).

I ran one full load pulling the magazine and inspecting the top two rounds after every shot. Each time there was a scratch on the top round at the slide stop and none on the second round.

When I got home I pulled the slide and reinserted the slide stop in the frame. I then inserted a full magazine, and watched as the slide stop rode that top round for its full travel before the round popped around it. I had to file nearly an eighth inch off the slide stop to get clearance, how was it not locking back after every round?!?

Now cycling the slide feeds ammo through no problem and no scratched jackets. Slide locks back only when it’s supposed to. With the only malfunction identified and fixed, I now get to… I mean have to... go run another 65 rounds of PDX1 to call it good for carry.

[Blue150]

Well, I shoulda known you'd make your own! :2rolleyes: Paul makes them tuckable as an option. Uses a seperate piece of kydex that is screwed/glued at the bottom of the holster, with a thin gap back up to the top, where it is folded over to form the clip. The angle you fold it at determines the cant. I'd go for some cant so you can carry it in 'the sweet spot' just behind the hip. Club salute - :D!

I have what I think is a slick idea for the belt clip. I'm going to attach it to the back of the holster and bend it under the bottom with a slight gap. That should give me an extra inch of tuck space which will be appreciated with the short slide of the CM9. I have a couple other ideas I haven't seen anyone else selling that will be easier to show than explain but they will reduce the bulk and help hide the clips; if they work out I'll post pictures. Hell, I might even start selling them.:D If I actually started making money with guns my wife :hippie: might not object to my hobby so vehemently.

[air8]

Blue....did you do the Kahr prep in the Kahr Tech section of this forum? There is some good pointers in there. The stickies are great information. There is a section in there about fitting the slide stop. But you've already taken care of that one. LoL.

[JFootin]

Won't that kydex folded under the holster close the bottom, not allowing lint and dirt to fall out?

I have a PJ Tuckable with velcro attachment. IMO, the 1.5" gap is plenty to tuck the shirt into. You want it to blouse there a bit to prevent printing. And you don't want it to be very hard to grab and pull out of the way.

[Blue150]

The plan is to attach at the adjustment screw and loop under the empty spot below the trigger guard. I'll get my Kydex soon and then can post pics.


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[JFootin]

That'll work! I hope Paul is reading this. Can he use this idea of yours? :)

[lowroad]

I'm going to try a Pj's, though I do think the kydex right on my skin might bug me, but maybe not. I have a supertuck knock off type holster that I trimmed down and still don't love. It's great at behind the hip carry, but I want to carry at almost 3 o'clock. I don't wear very long t shirts and get very aware that that my piece can poke out when wearing at 4 or 5 o'clock. Short of a galco in the pocket, where I'm not sure I like carrying either, I'm about out of options.

[Blue150]

I'm going to try a Pj's, though I do think the kydex right on my skin might bug me, but maybe not. I have a supertuck knock off type holster that I trimmed down and still don't love. It's great at behind the hip carry, but I want to carry at almost 3 o'clock. I don't wear very long t shirts and get very aware that that my piece can poke out when wearing at 4 or 5 o'clock. Short of a galco in the pocket, where I'm not sure I like carrying either, I'm about out of options.

Lowroad,
You might look into a Sneaky Pete. It looks like a high end smartphone or camera carrier but has a magnetic clasp that lets you swipe the flap up and out of the way quick. It's right there in the open but doesn't draw anyone's attention while keeping the gun out of sight. I like the concept.

http://sneakypeteholsters.com/prod_dtls.php?product_id=97

[JFootin]

I'm going to try a Pj's, though I do think the kydex right on my skin might bug me, but maybe not. I have a supertuck knock off type holster that I trimmed down and still don't love. It's great at behind the hip carry, but I want to carry at almost 3 o'clock. I don't wear very long t shirts and get very aware that that my piece can poke out when wearing at 4 or 5 o'clock. Short of a galco in the pocket, where I'm not sure I like carrying either, I'm about out of options.

Lowroad, you can always glue a piece of cloth or suede to the back of it. Some people say the kydex against the skin is fine. It bothers me a little. Try it and if you need to, line the back.

[lowroad]

Lowroad, you can always glue a piece of cloth or suede to the back of it. Some people say the kydex against the skin is fine. It bothers me a little. Try it and if you need to, line the back.

Yep, good old Dr. Scholl's moleskin I guess if I don't like it. Can't be any less comfortable than a giant hunk of cowhide anyway :) Got a tuckable on the way from Paul. What a great guy to work with. I even asked for a slightly less than 15 degree cant, something more like ten is more to my preference.

3 o'clock is a crappy place to carry IWB, I realize that, but it's where I want it, so my only recourse is the thinnest thing I can get. The tuckable option adds a whopping .080, so I will deal with it for the added option of being able to tuck. I'm really looking for one "do it all" holster.

[lowroad]

That'll work! I hope Paul is reading this. Can he use this idea of yours? :)That is where he is doing it. Myabe he used to do something else...
http://pjholster.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Nano_tuckable_clip.jpg

[JFootin]

Yep, good old Dr. Scholl's moleskin I guess if I don't like it. Can't be any less comfortable than a giant hunk of cowhide anyway :) Got a tuckable on the way from Paul. What a great guy to work with. I even asked for a slightly less than 15 degree cant, something more like ten is more to my preference.

3 o'clock is a crappy place to carry IWB, I realize that, but it's where I want it, so my only recourse is the thinnest thing I can get. The tuckable option adds a whopping .080, so I will deal with it for the added option of being able to tuck. I'm really looking for one "do it all" holster.

What kind of clip did you get?

[lowroad]

What kind of clip did you get?Simple over the belt hook. Ease of putting on is also important to me :o Fumbling around with two steel clips each tilting every which way also bugs me.

[Blue150]

3 o'clock is a crappy place to carry IWB, I realize that, but it's where I want it, so my only recourse is the thinnest thing I can get. The tuckable option adds a whopping .080, so I will deal with it for the added option of being able to tuck. I'm really looking for one "do it all" holster.

I've been carrying a 5" 1911 in both a Blackhawk Serpa and a reinforced leather IWB with inline loop at 3 o'clock for years. Serpa requries cover garment but a loose, untucked polo works for the IWB. Compared to that hiding a CM9 at 3 o'clock will be child's play... not that I would let children play with it.

The biggest advantage to the 3 o'clock position is retention; just clamp your strong arm to your side over the gun and either hit your snatcher with pepper spray or go to work on their arm with your knife from the off-hand. 4 to 6 o'clock are much easier for someone to snatch if they managed to spot it since whatever you do to stop them puts you strait into a behind the back arm hold and they would be coming from behind. If you carry behind the 3 o'clock position it had better be very well hidden.

[Blue150]

Simple over the belt hook. Ease of putting on is also important to me :o Fumbling around with two steel clips each tilting every which way also bugs me.

The clips can be managed. Put a thick rubber washer under them and crank down on the screws to keep 'em where you like 'em. If that's not secure enough for you put a star washer on each side of the washer and it will be locked real good.

[lowroad]

The clips can be managed. Put a thick rubber washer under them and crank down on the screws to keep 'em where you like 'em. If that's not secure enough for you put a star washer on each side of the washer and it will be locked real good.
I know, I have leather washers under tehre, it's still just no where near as nice as one nice big old slip on clip. I completely agree about the 3 o'clock carry. There are a host of reasons I prefer it, some of which you covered. Damn hip bone just gets in the way!! :)

[Blue150]

I know, I have leather washers under tehre, it's still just no where near as nice as one nice big old slip on clip. I completely agree about the 3 o'clock carry. There are a host of reasons I prefer it, some of which you covered. Damn hip bone just gets in the way!! :)

Just do like I did; put on forty pounds and that hipbone will be nicely padded. Now if I could just get around the hammer of my 1911 digging into my love handles.

[Blue150]

Kydex came in and I made a few holsters yesterday. I made a field holster for grandpa's old woodsman. I initially tried to glue leather to the inside before forming and it stuck well but the crisp edges of the trigger guard ate it up. Now I have to use mineral spirits to clean out the glue.

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii482/GreenWenonah/IMG_02651.jpg

I then used the scraps to make a slide holster for the CM9. Doesn't look half bad...

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii482/GreenWenonah/IMG_02631.jpg

I'm glad I used scraps for this because, though I learned a lot from online tutorials, I also learned a few lessons I haven't read anywhere else:

1. Trigger guard mounted LASERs need extra space in the holster so the trigger guard is not an option for retention. There is so much pressure on the LASER during the draw that it's point of aim shifts about six inches at twenty feet from draw to draw.
1.a. The LASER point of aim will shift during the press, adjust it before you go to the range and/or remember your tools.
2. Leave a bit more meat around the gun for fasteners.
3. The ejection port area of a tightly formed holster grabs a Kahr way harder than you can pull, this is because of the knife edge at the top of the port that digs in like an anchor. (As pictured, holster has been reformed without so much detail and has spacers inserted between shells.)
4. The frame of a polymer Kahr is thicker at the front than the rear. Once again, it grips way harder than I want it to.
5. Wrapping hot kydex around a polymer gun and putting it into a rubber press with an empty mag well can cause the grip to collapse slightly making that carefully adjusted magazine/magazine well relationship to become... clingy.
6. If the holster is going to come up past the ejection port, tape a thin section of Popsicle stick to the slide behind the extractor. Otherwise, when loaded, the extractor will catch on the lip and absolutely prevent the gun from entering the already too tight holster.

For my next try I will shim the frame behind the swell so it doesn't continue to grab after the initial release. There will be some thin shims taped to either side of the LASER and trigger guard so the LASER floats free in the holster. The top third of the ejection port will be completely filled and a disassembled magazine stuffed with shims and wrapped with tape will be installed to support the grip during the press. Retention will be provided by the slide stop on both sides of the gun and the lower portion of the ejection port.