taxifolia
04-30-2012, 02:36 PM
I prefer the sling shot method to rack the slide, but had difficulty racking my K9098 even with my replacement 18# recoil spring.
The slide serrations are not deep, the leading edges are not sharp, and the polished stainless steel is slippery.
I first considered using a triangular file to sharpen the edges, but instead made inserts out of stainless wiper blade inserts and GOOPed them into alternating grooves - they fell out in use.
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/Serrations004.jpg
I next tried skateboard tape, but it "floated" around on the adhesive.
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/P4270001.jpg
I considered milling to deepen grooves, but wall thickness not great enough to risk that. I also considered using a checkering file, but did not want to risk damage.
Here's what I did - I first used 60 grit emery cloth to roughen the serrations. That helped, but not enough, so I next used 60 grit aluminum oxide paper (which feels much coarser) and stapled that to a wood block. Next pic is the slide after emery cloth but before alum ox.
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/P4290002.jpg
Next two pics are after alum ox - masked then after unmasking and cleanup. I ran the block vertically to make striations parallel to the serrations.
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/P4290009.jpg
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/P4290016.jpg
The usual disclaimer - I'm not giving advice, just relating what I did.
It worked for me - serrations no longer slippery - I can now happily slingshot rack.
The slide serrations are not deep, the leading edges are not sharp, and the polished stainless steel is slippery.
I first considered using a triangular file to sharpen the edges, but instead made inserts out of stainless wiper blade inserts and GOOPed them into alternating grooves - they fell out in use.
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/Serrations004.jpg
I next tried skateboard tape, but it "floated" around on the adhesive.
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/P4270001.jpg
I considered milling to deepen grooves, but wall thickness not great enough to risk that. I also considered using a checkering file, but did not want to risk damage.
Here's what I did - I first used 60 grit emery cloth to roughen the serrations. That helped, but not enough, so I next used 60 grit aluminum oxide paper (which feels much coarser) and stapled that to a wood block. Next pic is the slide after emery cloth but before alum ox.
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/P4290002.jpg
Next two pics are after alum ox - masked then after unmasking and cleanup. I ran the block vertically to make striations parallel to the serrations.
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/P4290009.jpg
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af246/taxifolia/P4290016.jpg
The usual disclaimer - I'm not giving advice, just relating what I did.
It worked for me - serrations no longer slippery - I can now happily slingshot rack.