Couple questions if you don't mind??

[pitandkahr]

I'm getting ready to start my first set of 9mm reloads and doing my final research...

Thus, a couple last minute questions come to mind:


What does BC and SD stand for in the Lyman Reloading Handbook?
If I'm reloading 9mm 115gr the overall length is 1.090" OAL (how much longer or shorter is acceptable)?
Any suggestions on the taper crimp part (I have the Hornady Carbide seating die w/taper crimp and trying to dial that in after I get the measurements set)?

Thank you for your patience as I start this journey...

*I'll be using Titegroup 4.0 grain start and Unique 4.3 grain start, with Remington FMJ, CCI Primers and PD used brass*

[MW surveyor]

I'm getting ready to start my first set of 9mm reloads and doing my final research...

Thus, a couple last minute questions come to mind:


What does BC and SD stand for in the Lyman Reloading Handbook?
Ballistic Coefficient and Standard Deviation (don't worry about these until you get a chronograph)
If I'm reloading 9mm 115gr the overall length is 1.090" OAL (how much longer or shorter is acceptable)?
The exact OAL is going to depend on the bullet as some have longer or shorter ogives. The best thing to do is make up some dummy rounds and give them the "plunk test". That is take the barrel out of the gun and use it as your OAL gauge. The round should drop into the barrel with a plunk and be level with the barrel hood.
Any suggestions on the taper crimp part (I have the Hornady Carbide seating die w/taper crimp and trying to dial that in after I get the measurements set)?
Can't help you with this one as I use the Lee 4 die set which has a separate die for taper crimping.



Good luck!

[wyntrout]

I would take a factory loaded FMJ and set the seating depth using that, then load a round and see how that depth compares. You can always set the seating lower. A tight crimp is needed for autos to keep the bullet from being "seated" further as it strikes the feed ramp.

Wynn:)

[pitandkahr]

Good luck!

Thank you...I'm excited to start this journey..Still recovering from the reloading bench endeavor from the weekend...LOL


I would take a factory loaded FMJ and set the seating depth using that, then load a round and see how that depth compares. You can always set the seating lower. A tight crimp is needed for autos to keep the bullet from being "seated" further as it strikes the feed ramp.

Wynn:)

I've been looking at different handbooks and that makes it more confusing sometimes...I'm actually out of 115 grain range rounds to measure, which is crazy, but will be getting some Aquila 124 grain in tomorrow. I know the Max OAL and pretty much figure the 1.090" is probably closer to the other spectrum...I'll keep researching...

From Speer 14 manual:
using 115 gr FMJ
COAL: 1.135"

From Lyman 49 manual:
using 115 gr jacketed HP
COAL: 1.090"


From Hornady manual:
using 115 gr FMJ RN
COAL: 1.10"


Standard Max OAL for a 9mm is 1.169"

[FireMoose]

just remember, the OAL listed in your manuels is the MINIMUM. you can go from there out to SAAMI max.

you can do a push test to find your gun's best OAL by taking 10-15 bullets and unsized brass and putting the bullet slightly in the case and pushing the cartridge in until it stops, repeat the 10-15 times and eventually one number will keep popping up (after measuring) subtract .015 for safety and you got your guns max oal for that bullet shape.

google "wobbly push test" for more details, should bring up the CZ reloading forum.

[MW surveyor]

The reason that there is a different OAL listed in three different manuals is that they are for a specific bullet, each of which has a different profile and since Speer, Hornady and Lyman (makes molds) make bullets, the OAL will be for their bullets. The actual correct OAL for the bullets that you will be using will be determined by the bullet itself.

[dkmatthews]

FWIW, I don't ever crimp pistol ammunition and have never found a need to do so in my Glocks, Kahrs or Browning Hi-Powers. I don't see that it's absolutely necessary, but this is just my experience.

YMMV.

[bapple]

I've been looking at different handbooks and that makes it more confusing sometimes...I'm actually out of 115 grain range rounds to measure, which is crazy, but will be getting some Aquila 124 grain in tomorrow. I know the Max OAL and pretty much figure the 1.090" is probably closer to the other spectrum...I'll keep researching...

From Speer 14 manual:
using 115 gr FMJ
COAL: 1.135"

From Lyman 49 manual:
using 115 gr jacketed HP
COAL: 1.090"


From Hornady manual:
using 115 gr FMJ RN
COAL: 1.10"


Standard Max OAL for a 9mm is 1.169"

Set your dies up with a factory loaded round and adjust the seating depth accordingly.

I load Berry's 124gr Flat Point bullets so my OAL is always shorter than what they list. As long as your round passes the plunk test and spins freely when inserted into your barrel, the OAL is fine. The only time you need to worry about OAL is when your round doesn't pass the plunk test, or when you are loading to absolute max (which isn't listed in reloading manuals anyway). If you want to be able to shoot at any indoor range that doesn't allow cast reloads, the best price on plated bullets I've seen is from PowderValleyinc.com. I strongly suggest ordering Berry's bullets from them because they make them in all different weights and profiles. They have been plenty accurate in my handguns in the 3 common calibers (9, 40, 45).

So, use a factory round to set up the crimp just right...

Put a factory round in the shell holder and bring it to the top of the stroke. Now take your seating/crimping die and be sure the seating depth has been backed out a good bit (this will prevent it from further pushing the bullet into the case). Then spin the entire die into place until you feel tension (this indicates that the outer edges of the case are now pushing on the inside of the die - your crimp is being set). Now retract the bullet from the die and turn it 1/4 more (your crimp has now set! - unless you wish to change it later).

To set up seating depth... (I usually do this on an empty case so that I can have it to set up dies when I change bullet profiles (round nose vs flat point, etc.).)

Take an expanded case and insert your bullet into it. Now run the round to the top of the stroke until you can feel it crimp the case. Now turn the seating depth portion of the die until you feel it pushing on the bullet. Now back the round from the die and turn the seating depth 1/2 turn. Reinsert the round into the die. If it is seated too shallow, slowly procede with 1/2 turns per stroke until you get the desired seating depth.

After getting your seating depth set up, simply check for function in your handgun and you're ready to roll! For your Kahr pistols, the lighter loads may have a bit of trouble cycling since the recoil spring is so stout. I usually load in the mid-to-upper range for my CM9 with success, but you should still start in the low range for your own safety (and for any new powder you try).

Enjoy your new addiction! It's about as addicting as shooting is by itself!