Going to be busy for a little while

[jeep45238]

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/Range%20Time/DSCN0804.jpg

About 80 pounds of wheel weights, 55 pounds of boolits was the yeild.

Split them 50/50 with my buddy who helped me make these. All are sized, all of the round nose are lubed - lubing the semi-wadcutters tomorrow, and starting the loading of the round nose.

Going to give the new press a nice workout!

[Steve-$]

Now that what I call recycling!
Hope you have a progressive loader, otherwise your going to be busy for quite a while.
How long did it take to make them?
:yo:

[jeep45238]

Hornady L-N-L AP :)

Took about 7 hours total cast time (3 hours = making ignots and getting rid of steel clips), 2 hours to size, and 1/2 hour to lube about half of them.

[Steve-$]

Nice press!
I have been looking at getting into reloading one of these days.
From what I am reading it will be worth the investment and looks like fun too!
:)

[jeep45238]

Nice press!
I have been looking at getting into reloading one of these days.
From what I am reading it will be worth the investment and looks like fun too!
:)

Well, put in 2 hours earlier in the week learning the press a little better vs. the old loadmaster, made 200 rounds during those 2 hours. Finished up the rest of the loading of the boolits last night - it's amazing how fast this new press versus my old method with the Lee Loadmaster. 12 boxes of LSWC, 4 boxes of LRN, 1 mixed, and 1 partial of LRN - about 775 rounds total was my share of the yeild. Corey got a few hundred more than I did, I wanted to make sure that he had plenty of ammo when he took his family to the range. Teaching his family is more important to me than a few boxes of ammo in my own supply.

I'm now out of .45 projectiles to load. Onto .40 S&W while I wait for 1,000 .451" 185grain SWC bullets from Hornady to show up in the mail :D

Note: There are those that would say that the Lee Loadmaster and the Hornady L-N-L AP have the same speed potential, which is true (this is assuming that both presses can be fed brass and bullets at the same pace). However, I had the plastic primer tray detonate and turn into a small hand gernade on the Loadmaster. It primes brass on the upstroke in station #2, while it cold works 4-5 pieces of brass, which makes it impossible to feel if there's any problems. Lee sells a $5 bolt on blast shield to protect the operator if the tray detonates - they do not include it with the press. Instead, they rely on plastic and less than 1/2 of an inch to protect 99 primers from one detonating as it's getting forced into the primer pocket. The Hornady uses a feed system similar to the Dillon presses, made entirely out of steel with over 1 inch of distance between the primed brass and the 99 other primers. It also has a threaded steel blast tube that would direct all force at the ceiling instead of at the reloader if something happens, in addition to priming on the downstroke with little mechanical advantage - which allows the reloader to feel if there are any issues in the priming process. After feeling like somebody hit my hand with a sledgehammer, and having to dig plastic shrapnel out of my buddy's face, I can not trust the priming system on the Lee Loadmaster.

Compare my system of cleaning, depriming, hand priming, then loading on the Loadmaster (there were 8 hour sections I did nothing but deprime and clean) to the Hornady system, where it goes straight from the tumbler into the press - it's an amazing difference in time. I do not have a case feeder or bullet feeder at this time either. I make a cartridge every 5 seconds or so, stopping every 100 to fill up the primers. I could easily have this down to 3 or so seconds with a case feeder, and 1 or 2 if I had a bullet feeder. I'll just have to find child labor to fill primer tubes if I get both of those and get into the ammo making business :)



I think it's worth it. I do not recommend a progressive for somebody starting out, I would reccomend a single stage press or a turret though. That way there's only 1 operation going on a time to keep track of and see if there's any problems, and how to rectify it.

You can run one piece at a time with a progressive, which would more or less mimic a turret press. I don't reccomend doing this due to the temptation of running the progressive to capacity and making a cartridge every 5 seconds vs every 60 seconds - which will make it plain old dangerous for a new reloader who isn't devoting 250% of their attention to the process.

I spend about 7% of the cost of factory ammo in .45ACP, and about 20% in .40S&W. I make match grade .223 for the price of Wolf .223.

If you're looking to get into it for cost savings, it's not for you. That's why I originally got into it, but I'm shooting 200% more often, plus the cost of equipment.

[Bawanna]

I'm about ready to take the progressive plunge myself. I've been using a Rockchucker, actually 3 rockchuckers for 30 years but feel the need for speed. (without a loss of precision) I was all set to get a Dillon 550 when my research led me to the Hornady Lock and load. Reading about it, everyone seems to prefer the Hornady. Sounds like yours works well for you? Anybody have experience with both the Dillon and the Hornady. The Hornady is a few bucks cheaper and looks quality. Both companies are A+ on service I'm told.
I'll still use my good ole Rockchuckers for rifles and probably pistols I don't fee so much.
Any thoughts. What's Ms Zena have in her combination reloading room/gym.

[jeep45238]

I wouldn't compare the Dillon 550 to the Hornady LnL AP - the 550 does NOT have auto indexing, so you must manually rotate the shell plate. The Hornady LnL AP is comparable to the Dillon 650.

I've got experiance with the Dillon 550, and there's no way I'd take one of a LnL AP after seeing the primer feed issues on the 550 I was using, and what was needed to fix it. The LnL AP primer feed is similar, but can not go out of adjustment like the 550 did.

When my primer tube is full, I can put out a cartridge every 5 seconds while taking my time, taking my time to verify that I'm putting in a .45 ACP with a large pistol primer, no defects in the brass, and manually putting on the bullet. As stated, I do not have a case feeder or bullet feeder.

http://www.comrace.ca/cmfiles/dillonLeeHornadyComparison.pdf

You may find that to be of use to you.

[Steve-$]

That Hornady is one sweet press.
Nice comparison article on the machines.

[Bawanna]

Thanks guys, you confirmed all my research, I'm ordering a Hornady. Let the games begin.:music:

[jfrey]

In my personal experience, I compared the L-N-L to the Dillon SDB and went with the Dillon. I just liked that set up better. In fact, I have 2 of them, one for 9mm and one for .45 ACP. I don't have to change anything over and I just sit down in front of what caliber press I need at the time. I didn't like the 550 because of the manual indexing feature. It's too easy to forget the index if you get distracted. The SDB moves every time like the 650. The cost savings on ammo easily paid for both presses the first year.

[jeep45238]

Thanks guys, you confirmed all my research, I'm ordering a Hornady. Let the games begin.:music:


Long as you have a press that you like and can run, that's all that matters.

It's nice having $2.50 or so invested per box of 50 .45ACP's :D

[Bawanna]

Long as you have a press that you like and can run, that's all that matters.

It's nice having $2.50 or so invested per box of 50 .45ACP's :D

I'll never make $2.50 a box unless I cast my own bullets like you and I don't think I'm gonna go there. I like a jacket on my bullets (even in summertime). I just been thinking one progressive would make way more sense than 3 Rockchuckers lined up forming my own little assembly line. A cartridge with each pull of the handle sounds kind of nice.Like you mentioned, probably won't save anyhow. The more you got the more you shoot. I do hate to see the component inventory gone all the time.

[jeep45238]

I never thought I'd cast my own either, but the cost savings when sticking with low velocity cartridges (and using the proper alloy/size/lube means no leading) just couldn't be ignored.

Even if you prefer jackets, you can make your own with a strong press. You can make 40 FMJ/JHP out of a cast 9mm bullet and 9mm casing, .45 FMJ/JHP out of a cast .40S&W and .40S&W casing.

It's a fun, addicting hobby - I just picked up over 240 pounds of wheel weights this morning :D

[jeep45238]

246 pounds of wheel weights, this should yield about 5,500 .45 cal 200 grain semi wad cutters.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/Range%20Time/Reloading/Photo48.jpg

Total cost : 2 hours of driving (round trip - about 1.5 gallons of gas) and $50 cash, including the buckets. Well under $7 for a box of 50 .45ACP's :D

[Bawanna]

Definitely has it's benefits for sure. Would be a challenge for me to keep control on the velocities but I do it with my cowboy guns and rifles. Mostly I'm feeding my 45's. Been using Rainier 200's and they seem to work well and shoot the same as my carry ammo. Buying bulk, it's still way cheaper than factory if you can even find it sometimes.

[jeep45238]

Use the same data for lead as the Rainers and you won't have a single bit of problems ;)

[jeep45238]

Just to give an idea of the time involved, I timed myself today and ran a cartridge every 6 seconds when the press has primers in it (my longest downtime). This boils down to 10 rounds a minute, or 2 boxes of 50 every 10 minutes before I have to refill supplies.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/Range%20Time/Reloading/Photo49.jpg
That's 99 .40S&W sitting in the red box (goobered up one seating the bullet). 10 minutes total investment time.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s127/jeep45238/Range%20Time/Reloading/Photo50.jpg
That's the .45 and .40 that I've loaded so far with this press - 190 minutes total time, or a little over 3 hours of running the press, not counting filling the primers. If you've got all of your stuff lined up, especially if you have a primer tube filler, it's easy to hit 600 rounds an hour without a case feeder, and verifying case caliber/condition in the process.

[a.squibload]

(New guy buttin' in again.)

Would like to hear more about swaging 40s out of 9s, if you get a min. Or please
recommend source of info?
Is 380 brass useful? I know a couple of guys who don't save their 9 or 380 brass.


Glad to hear no serious injuries with the primer thing. Glasses are good for reloading
as well as shooting. Freind of mine somehow dropped a primer in the lead pot long ago.
I think he did it on purpose. He had to replace his carpet. Got a splash of lead on the
bill of his cap, that would have hurt.

I clean and lube the pivot points on my Rockchucker, figure to save my elbow. Suppose
that makes a difference? Also between the ram and the press frame, seems to get
dirty.

Thanks...A.

PS: wheelweights getting harder to find, for free anyway. Recyclers pick 'em up from the tire shops.
Suggest sources?

[jeep45238]

.40 swage tool learning curve - Cast Boolits (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=75670)

I haven't gotten into the swagging yet. When I retrofit my press to be automated, I'll look into making a log splitter into an automated swagging machine.

Single stages kill me, I hate using the one I have for sizing bullets, just takes forever. I'm glad loading ammo on it are days long gone.

I grease my press everytime I use it. I can always feel a difference. Preventative maintenence = longer lasting investment :)

I haven't had any luck in finding free weights, but I have had some luck in cheap ones. I really can't give any advise except offer what the recycler gives plus a little extra. My cost per box went from $2.50 to $2.99 paying $50 for 240 pounds of lead, I can't complain.

[a.squibload]

Thanks for the link, looks good. I'll read more when I get back.

[a.squibload]

Checked that link, looks good! From the pic it looks like the cast slug goes in
the case nose-first? I imagine it takes a lot of pressure but they say a
Rockchucker will do it. Saw your post from 2-26 was the last one in the thread,
let us know (or I'll check over there once in a while). Didn't notice how to
order dies, or prices, maybe I'll register over there and snoop around.
I had considered using cast slugs but the lead vs polygon thing worried me,
this might be just the thing for a cheap handloader like me. And they seem to
expand nicely although he didn't say what he dug 'em out of, most likely dirt.

One more thing: it was mentioned that the jacket would be as hard as the case
you're loading it into, and crimp might not be as good, but if the jacket-cases
are annealed before swaging they should be slightly softer, I guess?

[jeep45238]

From what I understand of the process, the weight is primarily determined by the lead core, which could be up to 150ish for 9mm. Cases will have some variation, and different weight slugs will have different amount of air in them, which would limit accuracy a fair amount.

Even hardened brass is softer than a standard copper jacket. You're correct that the cases are annealed, but they are then work hardened which makes them harder. Both copper and brass (hardened or annealed) are softer than the barrel steel, so no worries there.

I was able to talk to a few folks on there and have some lee tumble lube 175 grain LSWC that I'm going to try loading for the T40. If they work successfully without leading, which I dearly hope they will, time for me to invest in a mold.

[a.squibload]

Jeep45238:
How could you do this to me? Thanks to you I've ordered so much "stuff" I'm
gonna have to use the ol' lady's PU truck to pick it up. Along with a couple of
BT's dies I've bought molds, handles, lead, brass (a lot), a thermometer (which
I never used for casting before but should help make better boolits), a
hollow-nose drill jig and bits, boolit lube, stickers, and a chance at the
Castboolits.gunloads.com official flag with the lady ridin' the boolit.

What did I ever do to you? :)

[jeep45238]

Jeep45238:
How could you do this to me? Thanks to you I've ordered so much "stuff" I'm
gonna have to use the ol' lady's PU truck to pick it up. Along with a couple of
BT's dies I've bought molds, handles, lead, brass (a lot), a thermometer (which
I never used for casting before but should help make better boolits), a
hollow-nose drill jig and bits, boolit lube, stickers, and a chance at the
Castboolits.gunloads.com official flag with the lady ridin' the boolit.

What did I ever do to you? :)


Wait till I get you into 4MOA rifle shooting at 500+ yards and pistol shooting at 100+ yards :D

[a.squibload]

Been spending most of my online time over there, thought I'd check Kahrtalk tonight.
My best long range rifle is a 7mag, not exactly a combat rifle with it's 26" barrel!
It is kinda flat shooting but I don't even have dies for it.
I have a 303 Enfield, already thinking about the gas-check dies being offered.
No dies for it either. I imagine it would reach 500 yards!
Have shot IHMSA at 200 meters, but with a 7½" SBH it was almost cheating.
(200 meter target is as big as a big dog.)
Bought a $10 hotplate for casting, and a bunch of Lee case trimmer/gauges.
Also some WWs, got mostly lead, about 200# for $20. Tried that at the same chain tire store,
different location, was told they can't sell 'em. Hope they don't dry up my connection at the other store.
Got that HP drill jig, kinda neat, will make some of my moulds dual-purpose.
Dang, almost forgot, I ordered a NOE 358 Keith-style HP mold too, group buy.
Oh well, it's only money...