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View Full Version : Figured out why my trigger is gritty



tarheelcm9
06-24-2012, 05:25 PM
Took my gun apart and cleaned it after the 250 rnd. break-in. The Kahrs are supposed to have wonderfully smooth triggers, but mine has been anything but. It has a gritty feeling, and a lot of take-up. Probably 1/2" of take-up until it actually engages. Anyways, the gritty trigger is from the trigger bar spring grinding on the trigger bar. I think you can see from the picture how it rests below the trigger bar. As the bar moves, it rides against the trigger bar spring, and makes the gritty feeling in the trigger pull.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b88/pmurda69/Kahr-1.jpg

Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Oh, and there were brass shavings all on my the underneath of my slide. Why would this be happening?

jdavis
06-24-2012, 05:31 PM
I would suggest that a good and through cleaning might provide a simple solution to your problem. That gun looks filthy!

CJB
06-24-2012, 05:32 PM
Send it for R&R to Kahr

tarheelcm9
06-24-2012, 05:37 PM
cleaned the **** outta it...still didn't work.

jocko
06-24-2012, 05:42 PM
IMO two optionsw. put some grease where that spring ingages the trigger bar ad in time it will smooth out or pull that wside plate andpull that spring out and smooth with some 600+ grip paper that part of the trigger bar.

I would be surprised if kahr would pay to ship it back to fix that, as it will take care of itself in time. Ur bar at that area musthave some ruff spot on it. Put sime gun grease right there and see ifit helps after a hundred ronds etc..

tarheelcm9
06-24-2012, 06:43 PM
jocko, I was thinking that would help. I'll try to polish it a little bit. The side plate looks like its a small torx head, any idea what size it is?

jocko
06-24-2012, 07:00 PM
size 6 harbor freight or sears sells um. harbor freight is the cheapest and u can buy the kit of small torx, as on the kahr P380 their torx size if #5.:banplease:

don';t tryt to take that trigger bar out of the gun, but u can take that little springhy out just pay attention to how it goes backin and then jus tpolish right in that area and then grease and reinstall andu willbe good to go. check to be sure the spring tip is not grabbing on that trigger bar. u can actually polish that spring tip to. I kinda think that some of the grabbing is actually that spring tip grabbingon the trigger bar. very correctable if so..

tarheelcm9
06-24-2012, 07:41 PM
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-mni-star-tamper-proof-key-set-97469.html

Does that look about right? I'm assuming T5 is the smallest torx head size.

Any idea why there were so many brass shavings in the gun?

Tilos
06-24-2012, 08:00 PM
The Brass...here's what's typical, for me

You can see that raised portion in the in center of the middle slide has milling/machining marks that act as a file when sliding over the top round in the magazine when the action cycles.
Tilos

tarheelcm9
06-24-2012, 08:42 PM
Yea, that's about how much was in mine Tilos. I didn't even think about the pickup rail rubbing on the top of the cases. That makes sense now..thanks!

OldLincoln
06-24-2012, 09:01 PM
I think the hex set you showed skips one you need. Here is the set I got dirty cheap but works great. Being so small you have a better chance of not over torquing it.
It's item # 93316 Sizes: 5; 5.5; 6; 7; 8; 9.

http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx269/OldLincoln/Misc/HexSet.jpg

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/pi/mp/4143/1297511501p?src=http%3A%2F%2Fmserv.toolking.com%2F catalog%2Fproduct%2Fw%2F1%2Fw1376_1.jpg&d=352d95bad362b1677d8fa4c6a404772ebfce843f

tarheelcm9
06-24-2012, 09:38 PM
Could you test it on your PM9 to see which size it is? I'd hate to buy the wrong set.

yqtszhj
06-24-2012, 09:39 PM
I think it's a maybe a 5 torx on the new ones maybe. a 6 wouldn't work on mine for the side plate. I ended up using a jeweler's screwdriver that was just the size to fit in the star of the torx.

+1 on what Jocko said about the 600 grip paper. I also ended up taking my cw45 trigger bar out and while I had it out I smoothed it with 600 grit. it made A LOT of difference. Just remove the trigger spring and smooth the bar a bit.

Good luck.

tarheelcm9
06-24-2012, 10:21 PM
I think it's a maybe a 5 torx on the new ones maybe. a 6 wouldn't work on mine for the side plate. I ended up using a jeweler's screwdriver that was just the size to fit in the star of the torx.

+1 on what Jocko said about the 600 grip paper. I also ended up taking my cw45 trigger bar out and while I had it out I smoothed it with 600 grit. it made A LOT of difference. Just remove the trigger spring and smooth the bar a bit.

Good luck.

I found a small jeweler's screwdriver that worked...thanks a lot! I just hit up the bar and the loop in the spring with some 600 grit. A little better, but not quite there yet. I'm going to field strip the gun again, and polish what I can in the trigger assembly.

almalave
06-24-2012, 10:30 PM
It is a Torx 5. Finally found the torx 5 bit and it worked fine. I went ahead and took the whole thing apart. Used a non marring hammer for the trigger pin which was quite stuck. I took the trigger bar out and used a polishing stone that I found in of of those dremel accessory boxes. ( It was a green one) and carefully ran through the the bottom part of the bar (did it by hand) where the spring rides on when you move the trigger ( mine had a couple of ridges that caused the spring to kind of "skip" when it rode that area of the bar). I left the surface pretty smooth and put it all back together. Now it's really smooth when pressing and when letting go of the trigger.Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

yqtszhj
06-24-2012, 10:37 PM
I found a small jeweler's screwdriver that worked...thanks a lot! I just hit up the bar and the loop in the spring with some 600 grit. A little better, but not quite there yet. I'm going to field strip the gun again, and polish what I can in the trigger assembly.

On my CW45 the trigger bar was rough on the side between the bar and the side of the frame in front of the little panel the on the side that you removed. I'm not sure if you can get the paper between the polymer frame and the trigger bar between the panel opening and the trigger to smooth there but if you can it's worth a try.

I had my trigger apart and trigger bar out for another reason and I smoothed it out then but that's not for the faint of heart. I wouldn't recommend that unless it's just really bad. Even then I would suggest sending it back to Kahr unless you just are really into it. I tend to get in over my head frequently so when I gave it a second thought I did it anyway. getting it all back together does require some patience and improvising since 2 hands aren't quite enough.

yqtszhj
06-24-2012, 10:40 PM
It is a Torx 5. Finally found the torx 5 bit and it worked fine. I went ahead and took the whole thing apart. Used a non marring hammer for the trigger pin which was quite stuck. I took the trigger bar out and used a polishing stone that I found in of of those dremel accessory boxes. ( It was a green one) and carefully ran through the the bottom part of the bar (did it by hand) where the spring rides on when you move the trigger ( mine had a couple of ridges that caused the spring to kind of "skip" when it rode that area of the bar). I left the surface pretty smooth and put it all back together. Now it's really smooth when pressing and when letting go of the trigger.Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This sounds just like what I did to the trigger bar. I had to use a punch and hammer to get the pin out because like you said that thing is in there tight. I learned a lot about the Kahr trigger doing it. Pretty interesting actually.

tarheelcm9
06-24-2012, 10:51 PM
How hard is the trigger bar to remove/reassemble?

Bootlegger
06-24-2012, 11:01 PM
I just took mine apart to see any difference and my spring looks to be set back more than yours.

Working on a picture to compare to... (might take a few, stand by)


http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad231/bootlegger1022/IMG_20120625_000431.jpg


still serching how to post pic.. if link dont work... stand by

http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad231/bootlegger1022/IMG_20120625_000431.jpg

jocko
06-25-2012, 06:17 AM
I seriously doubt if those marks effect anything but in doubt get some fine 600+ grit paper and polish it like u stole it. It only touches those rounds when the slide is retracting anyhow. Mine shows those machine marks today yet with 32K rounds thorugh it, so IMO, it is what it is..

yqtszhj
06-25-2012, 11:21 AM
How hard is the trigger bar to remove/reassemble?

Removal is pretty easy. Reassembly... well you have to have a little patience. I had to put mine together twice. The first time I did it something wasn't lined up quite right so the trigger was a bit stiff.

The second time I got all the pieces in and used a punch on one side to keep them in place while I inserted the pin from the other side. I would insert the pin a little, operate the trigger to make sure things moved freely, push the pin in a little more, operate the trigger again, and repeat until the pin was back in all the way.

There are not that many pieces it's just getting everything in place, lined up, and keeping it that way during reassembly.

OldLincoln
06-25-2012, 12:00 PM
Bootlegger, it looks like your trigger bar is riding on top of the spring. The earlier pics show the spring along side of the bar. You might check that out.

jocko
06-25-2012, 12:01 PM
I don;'t recommend taking the trigger section down. Might just be me. I think one can get to the trigger bar without taking the frame down. screw it up and ur warranty is nadda.

Bootlegger
06-25-2012, 12:29 PM
Bootlegger, it looks like your trigger bar is riding on top of the spring. The earlier pics show the spring along side of the bar. You might check that out.

It's the angle of the pic, I have a curved pic that I ran around the trigger bar, nothing is touching. It's hard to get a good picture of that area!

yqtszhj
06-25-2012, 06:56 PM
I don;'t recommend taking the trigger section down. Might just be me. I think one can get to the trigger bar without taking the frame down. screw it up and ur warranty is nadda.

I can agree with that. Proceed at your own risk...

almalave
07-01-2012, 07:03 PM
I took It all apart, but it was because I found rust on the left side of the trigger pin and on the side of the trigger itself where it dissapears inside the frame. I found that the trigger spacer had rust on the entire side. I found this odd, but I live in PR and boy, its hot and humid here. so that's when I went ahead and polished the trigger bar.

saltydog452
07-03-2012, 12:57 PM
If it was mine, I'd be concerned about where the grit came from.

If the gritty stuff is from enviornmental sources, clean it, and the magazines, regular after a trip to the beach.

If the grit is from parts wear, you might want to leave it dirty and let the good folks at Kahr figure out where the grit came from.

Whatever happends, would you continue the thread to bring the rest of us up to speed?

Thanks,
salty (new guy on board)

jocko
07-03-2012, 01:20 PM
I took It all apart, but it was because I found rust on the left side of the trigger pin and on the side of the trigger itself where it dissapears inside the frame. I found that the trigger spacer had rust on the entire side. I found this odd, but I live in PR and boy, its hot and humid here. so that's when I went ahead and polished the trigger bar.

but maybe some of those parts are not stainless. Just sayin.

tarheelcm9
07-03-2012, 04:43 PM
grit was from burrs on the inside portion of the trigger bar. polished the trigger mechanism and all is well now. I plan on doing a writup of how I did everything for people with future issues like mine.

yqtszhj
07-03-2012, 05:33 PM
Mine was the same way with the burrs. I probably could have got that part through the opening on the side with some 600 grit sand paper but I had another issue anyway.