Score - S&W M36

[mr surveyor]

An old friend of the family dropped off a "gun" to my Mom's house last week and asked if I'd take a look at it to figure out what was wrong with it, determine some value for it, make him an offer, or basically whatever.... he didn't care or want the gun. I won't go into details, but I knew more about the history of that gun than he did, and he had lived with the lady that originally owned it for nearly 20 years (she died about 5 years ago).... I knew her since 1957. Her former husband had bought the gun for her in 1978-1979, and I'm sure she had probably only shot 5 "hardball" rounds through it before it was loaded with shotshells and tucked away. That's how it came to me last Saturday morning. The cylinder was totally locked up, the action was immovable, and it was stoked full of plastic capped shotshells.. The nickle finish was pristine, there was no sign of raccoon eyes on the cylinder face, and looking into the barrel you could still see the machining marks in the lands and grooves. That gun had been set back with those same corroded shotshells, and original factory "goo" since 1979. A few shots of GunBlast solvent on Saturday, then again on Sunday, and a bit more this morning and I was finally able to unglue the crane from the frame and use a dowell rod to hammer out the shotshells. I could tell the innards were locked up just about as bad as the crane, so I called him this afternoon and told him what to expect, which would include a trip to a gunsmith to make it "operational". He let me know that he really didn't care about the gun, and I offered him $125, to which he countered with $100:confused:. I told him there would be an envelope with $125 at my Mom's house for him when he stops by to visit her on Friday. So....since it was mine, I knocked the side plate off tonight, stripped it, degunked, re-lubed and re-assembled. SCORE

I had forgotten how stiff the Model 36 trigger was in DA. If this is going into mrs surv's collection, I'm going to have to replace all the springs with reduced power springs. I had breifly considered using it for trade for reloading tools and components, but the "history ties" are probably gonna cause this one to stay around. (and I don't like the fit of j-frames)

surv:)

[Barth]

No pics???
And how long have you been a KahrTalk member???
This is totally unacceptable.

You know I love classic Smith revolvers but I'm a visual guy.
All my pics are from a 7 year old Razr V3 cell phone.
http://www.wirefly.com/core_elements/phones/motorola_v3dt_tmobile_z1.jpg


Come on man...

[JFootin]

I can link you up with the gunsmith who did the trigger job on my S&W 638 Airweight and got the DA trigger pull down to 4.25 lb if you'd like. :)

[MW surveyor]

You got a good deal!

The other/other surveyor :)

[DeaconKC]

I love J frames, well ok, any S&W wheelgun. You do decide to sell or trade for reloading stuff, pm me!

[jocko]

I'm with u on that decon. only thing better than a J frame is maybe two J frames. They have endured like the 1911 has. Oh I can't believe I put the J frame in the same class as the 1911's ..

[mr surveyor]

I don't have anything personal against j-frames since I carried one (several different ones) for several years as a field gun, but when I ran across my current "all time favorite" 3" SP101 .357 mag, the last j-frame I owned had to leave the building. I never could shoot a j-frame worth a crap, and have no need for a single purpose firearm (aka belly gun). This one, whether I like it or not, is a bit special to me.... almost like I inherited it in a strange sort of way, or in repayment for a 20+ year old debt. Unusual circumstances that I figure should be kept private.


Now..... tech help needed. Last night I did remove the crane, the side plate, the hammer block, hammer and (mainly) the bolt assembly (cylinder release mechanism) for detailed cleaning. Still difficult to free up the cylinder to open it up.... maybe need to strip it down again and give those parts a more thorough cleaning, or use some 1200 wet/dry and try to polish the bolt? I have a "business account" with Brownells, so I can order parts/springs at a pretty reduced price if needed.


surv

edit to add.... this gun had been sitting stationary for some 30 years with the original factory lube drying out, and five corroded shot shells in the chambers.

[DeaconKC]

Get some odorless mineral spirits , take the grips off and let it soak overnight. then use a spray cleaner on the internals, and some Kroil on the crane.

[Bawanna]

I was gonna say Kroil. It's amazing stuff for getting into hard places.

[TheTman]

Wow, I'll have to take some Kroil with me next time I go out to a night club. :D

[gb6491]

... Still difficult to free up the cylinder to open it up....
Check that the ejector rod is tightened/turned in completely. The barrel ejector rod detent might also need a shot of lube/penetrating fluid.
Regards,
Greg

[jocko]

nut buster at auto shops might help loosen things up..

[yqtszhj]

nut buster at auto shops might help loosen things up..

Nut buster, brake cleaner, sounds like someone might have worked on a harley and used the same stuff on their guns. :w00t:

Sounds like an efficient use of supplies to me

[jocko]

I work on my bikes and my cars--within reason. done that sh! t all my life in our tire business..

[yqtszhj]

If I can possibly fix it, or I at least think I can, I'm working on it whatever it is. Guns, cars, home air conditioner, old mechanical nickel slot machine, etc...

[mr surveyor]

guys... I detail strip my firearms... I don't just dunk them in solvent and hope for the best. I think there's a burr in the bolt channel that's interfering with the freedom of movement of the bolt.... I'm about to find out.

[Armybrat]

Time to post a pic of a J frame - my Bodyguard Airweight:

http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w349/ScoPro/SWrevolver002.jpg

[DeaconKC]

mr s. I certainly hope i did not offend you. As a fan of S&Ws like you, I always worry about folks damaging the side plate if they don't know the right way to do so. I always recommend the simplest, not the best, way to clean out an old revolver.

[mr surveyor]

mr s. I certainly hope i did not offend you. As a fan of S&Ws like you, I always worry about folks damaging the side plate if they don't know the right way to do so. I always recommend the simplest, not the best, way to clean out an old revolver.



me offended???? naaahhhhh. I know that on the algore-internet-superhighway it's not always easy to determine everyone's knowledge or understanding unless they have credentials and or well known reputation. I have no credentials, but I do have a reputation:eek:

Yep, I for sure know what you mean about the unknowing person wrecking a revolver with a prybar. Never use a prybar when a big old hammer will do the trick;).

After having disassembled/reassembled several times, polishing surfaces and lubing, I've come to the conclusion that the "bolt" is out of spec. When you use normal thumb pressure and push forward on the thumb piece to open the cylinder it has the same type feel that Jocko must experience when he drags them dead horses down the railroad track. Using a small piece of wood to push the thumb piece straight forward (with no pressure inward towards the frame) the bolt moves much, much easier. I called one of my gun shop buddies to check with his gunsmith and considered dropping it off with them. Then decided for less than 25 bucks delivered I could order a new bolt from Brownells and give that a try.

My son and I put 25 rounds (about half 148 gr dewc's and half 125 gr lrn's) through it yesterday for a function test. I'll have to admit, this is the best j-frame I've ever shot. Have to get it up to 100% now.


surv:)

[mr surveyor]

here it is in it overly shiney type glory (I still don't like nickle)

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b345/cowpi/SWM36.jpg

[JFootin]

I don't care who you are, that's purdy right there! :D

[CJB]

Dad carried a 36 every day for over 20 years. It was Dept issue, and he had no option to keep it upon retirement. I was WELL worn on the outside, but not rusty, and it was spankin new inside, having fired perhaps 200 shots total, during the whole time.

[mr surveyor]

the M36 is well made, and obviously from a long line of highly refined design. I'm suspecting the bolt problem with this one may have been caused by a friend of the former owner using a bit of unnecessary force on the thumb piece in an attempt to open the cylinder... and they didn't realize that the crane was completely glued shut with 30 year old dried lube.

CJB..... do you think it could be possible to torque the bolt out of spec by extreme force, like, say, hammering a wood block against the thumb piece?

[Barth]

the M36 is well made, and obviously from a long line of highly refined design. I'm suspecting the bolt problem with this one may have been caused by a friend of the former owner using a bit of unnecessary force on the thumb piece in an attempt to open the cylinder... and they didn't realize that the crane was completely glued shut with 30 year old dried lube.

CJB..... do you think it could be possible to torque the bolt out of spec by extreme force, like, say, hammering a wood block against the thumb piece?

My M65 cylinder was touching the forcing cone.
And the cylinder stuck slightly during opening.
Had my Favorite gunsmith give the gun a once over
and put everything back to factory specs.
Now she just sings!!!

I went ahead and emptied a cylinder of magnums rapid fire.
And was surprised how easy it was to control the 3" heavy barrel gun.
This bad boy was made for shooting and has quickly become my favorite revolver.

Enjoy your new toy she looks sweet.
I'm betting the nickel finish will grow on you - LOL!

[Armybrat]

here it is in it overly shiney type glory (I still don't like nickle)

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b345/cowpi/SWM36.jpg

Really nice lookin' little revolver. Some simulated ivory grips would look great with that nickle finish.

It's definitely worth restoring to shooting condition.

[DeaconKC]

That is sweet! All it needs is a Tyler T grip!

[mr surveyor]

That is sweet! All it needs is a Tyler T grip!



now THAT would be cool..... you have a spare????:D

[melissa5]

Very nice old revolver you got there!

I've been thinking about getting a Tyler T grip for my M37. http://www.t-grips.com/

[espresso]

Man I'm drooling........that's just a fine lil snubbie worthy of fixing up right.

[gb6491]

here it is in it overly shiney type glory (I still don't like nickle)

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b345/cowpi/SWM36.jpg
That sure is a sweet flat latch Model 36:)

That is sweet! All it needs is a Tyler T grip!

Very nice old revolver you got there!

I've been thinking about getting a Tyler T grip for my M37. http://www.t-grips.com/
I have a Tyler "T" on my square butt 36 and like it, especially when shooting double action:
http://i49.tinypic.com/2ntuvec.jpg
Regards,
Greg

[DeaconKC]

It is nice to know that Tyler is shipping again in a reasonable amount of time. Gotta order one for a N frame.

[MW surveyor]

Did you ever wonder why most revolver grips jam your knuckle into the back of the trigger guard? I know that I do (wonder that is).

Is it a hold over from the original design of the things or what. Every revolver that I have, my mid finger knuckle gets jammed and the only way to shoot comfortably is to get a different set of grips that move the knuckle down.

[Barth]

Did you ever wonder why most revolver grips jam your knuckle into the back of the trigger guard? I know that I do (wonder that is).

Is it a hold over from the original design of the things or what. Every revolver that I have, my mid finger knuckle gets jammed and the only way to shoot comfortably is to get a different set of grips that move the knuckle down.

My Hogue Bantams don't do that at all???
http://www.getgrip.com/images/softrubber/revolvers/KBantam%20Grip.jpghttp://www.firinglineguns.com/images/uploads/FLOLD/Hogue_Jframe_61000.jpg

[jocko]

thse are darn nice grips IMO. that looks like a model 342 J frame with prelock. . I had one in non prelock and like a total ass I let it go. Even had the fokker ported. IMO my best J frame ever. Had a complete action job sdone to it and it was totally smooth. U knew u were shootin a lightweight though. but to me there is just so so so much class in that J frame there.

[JFootin]

My Hogue Bantams don't do that at all???
http://www.getgrip.com/images/softrubber/revolvers/KBantam%20Grip.jpghttp://www.firinglineguns.com/images/uploads/FLOLD/Hogue_Jframe_61000.jpg

Yeah, they do it all! I put this one on my 638 and I am not going to take it off. I believe it is the perfect grip for my J-frame!
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee486/John_England/Miscellanious%20Guns%20and%20Holsters/My638-1.jpg

[mr surveyor]

I ordered the bolt this morning, so should have it early next week.

If I put anything on the handle, it will either be a "T" with the factory grip, or "one piece" genuine lumber. I really like the classic look of the "T" though.

Once I get the bolt assembly problem fixed, I may go ahead and stone the action and replace the rebound spring. Mrs surv may actually become fond of it with a slicked up trigger.

surv

[CJB]

CJB..... do you think it could be possible to torque the bolt out of spec by extreme force, like, say, hammering a wood block against the thumb piece?

At first consideration, it seems unlikely. The bolt doesn't protrude all that much from the frame, and doesn't reside all that deeply into the cylinder. I'm wondering if there is actually enough "meat" to force against - that would cause deformation of the parts. Just my gut feeling on that.

More likely, and I've seen.... trying to lighten the trigger on a 36/60. The rebound spring is cut or a light weight one is put in there. Also, a light hammer spring (main spring) is put in...at that point, the wee little spring that runs the operation of the cylinder locking bolt becomes out of balance with the rest of the springs. It is too heavy and must also be lightened, that way the trigger will reset. Problem is, the spring on the bolt needs to be at some proper strength to work. So... our home gunsmith tries to stone, sand, Dremel his way into "smoothness" on the bolt. Particularly, the angled face on the bolt is subject to misfitting, and has a rather rough factor finish (inviting the home smithy to do his work at that spot). Modifying that spot disrupts the timing... etc etc etc.

Thats what I think.

[CJB]

Should also add, a new bolt is cheep. New spring set is cheep... restore it all, and you're good to go again!~

Not saying this is what the gun in question needs, but just in general, that seems to be the way a lot of J frames ended up when I was behind the gunsmith counter at the range.

[mr surveyor]

Should also add, a new bolt is cheep. New spring set is cheep... restore it all, and you're good to go again!~

Not saying this is what the gun in question needs, but just in general, that seems to be the way a lot of J frames ended up when I was behind the gunsmith counter at the range.



Thanks. As could be expected, just getting all the crusty, 30 year old gunk off the action parts made a huge improvement in the trigger. But, trying to push the bolt forward to open the cylinder just ain't working right. I would think that when, during re-assembly, that you drop the bolt into the bolt channel that the "pin" protruding through the frame would actually line up pretty darned close....maybe no more than a couple of thousandths? This one is considerably more than that as you have to pick it up to get it into the cylinder pin lock up hole. I'm even wondered if it may be so far out of spec that it's dragging on the hammer, but couldn't see any tel tale signs of marring on the nickle plated hammer. If I hadn't already ordered a replacement bolt, I suppose I could have "smoked" the hammer, re-assembled, worked to bolt, then dis-assembled to check the hammer for drag marks. If the new bolt doesn't make a drastic improvement, I'll take it to one of my GS buds to work on.

As for the "dremmel"...... not for me. Now, I have been known to fashion hand tools dressed with 1200-1500 grit wet/dry. Never reshape the factory part...just knock down the rough surface a bit.


surv

[JFootin]

Thanks. As could be expected, just getting all the crusty, 30 year old gunk off the action parts made a huge improvement in the trigger. But, trying to push the bolt forward to open the cylinder just ain't working right. I would think that when, during re-assembly, that you drop the bolt into the bolt channel that the "pin" protruding through the frame would actually line up pretty darned close....maybe no more than a couple of thousandths? This one is considerably more than that as you have to pick it up to get it into the cylinder pin lock up hole. I'm even wondered if it may be so far out of spec that it's dragging on the hammer, but couldn't see any tel tale signs of marring on the nickle plated hammer. If I hadn't already ordered a replacement bolt, I suppose I could have "smoked" the hammer, re-assembled, worked to bolt, then dis-assembled to check the hammer for drag marks. If the new bolt doesn't make a drastic improvement, I'll take it to one of my GS buds to work on.

As for the "dremmel"...... not for me. Now, I have been known to fashion hand tools dressed with 1200-1500 grit wet/dry. Never reshape the factory part...just knock down the rough surface a bit.


surv

When I got my 638 back from Ahlman's, I couldn't get the cylinder open without tremendous effort. After I found the local gunsmith to do the trigger job that Ahlman's failed at, I asked him to look at that. He said they didn't get the bolt tightened well enough. He got it secured and Locktighted it. Now, it opens easily as it should.

My gunsmith said Ahlman's had polished everything well, so he didn't have to do any more polishing. And he did not use lightened springs from a spring kit. What he did was to remove a coil or half a coil at a time from both springs (main hammer spring and trigger return spring), test firing it to confirm that it was still producing positive primer strikes, until he got it lightened up to where I needed it with my crippled, partially paralyzed hands: 4.25 lb DA. I can put you in touch with him, or you can talk with a local smith about doing a trigger job this way. I believe this is the way skilled gunsmiths did trigger jobs before there were spring kits for the relatively unskilled. Real gunsmithing is becoming a lost art, and there are a lot of pretenders around anymore.

[mr surveyor]

It's gettin' better all the time....a call to S&W today informed me that this 36 was manufactured in 1963:):):)

[Barth]

It's gettin' better all the time....a call to S&W today informed me that this 36 was manufactured in 1963:):):)

I'm still waiting on S&W to respond to my formal history request on the 65-3.
I think mine was produced around 1982?

Really hope they can identify what LE department the gun came from.

[mr surveyor]

well, my part (bolt) came in the mail today, and as expected it was not the "right" part. S&W must have changed the part sometime since 1963, but only in the way the "thumb piece" attaches to the bolt. My '63 model has a screw that attaches to the bolt through the frame, and the bolt I received has the threaded "pin" that protrudes through the frame that attaches the thumb piece with a nut. I still dropped it in to determine the function part, and could actuate it with the threaded pin protruding through the frame. A new bolt WILL solve the problem. Now, I either have to find a bolt for a 1963 vintage Model 36, or order a current "thumb piece" and "thumb piece nut", if those will actually fit the 1963 frame/slot. That's where I am now.... back to square one, with a tiny head start.

surv

[gb6491]

well, my part (bolt) came in the mail today, and as expected it was not the "right" part. S&W must have changed the part sometime since 1963, but only in the way the "thumb piece" attaches to the bolt. My '63 model has a screw that attaches to the bolt through the frame, and the bolt I received has the threaded "pin" that protrudes through the frame that attaches the thumb piece with a nut. I still dropped it in to determine the function part, and could actuate it with the threaded pin protruding through the frame. A new bolt WILL solve the problem. Now, I either have to find a bolt for a 1963 vintage Model 36, or order a current "thumb piece" and "thumb piece nut", if those will actually fit the 1963 frame/slot. That's where I am now.... back to square one, with a tiny head start.

surv
If Smith doesn't have any of the old "flat latch" bolts on hand you probably going to have to do a lot of 'leg work' to find one. I suggest giving any of these folks a try:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/
http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/
http://www.gun-parts.com/index.html/
Post on the S&W forums: http://smith-wessonforum.com

It appears fitting more modern parts is possible:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/195492-replacing-flat-latch.html

Perhaps a comparison of the old and new part would give you an idea where the old part needs tweaking and if it's something you could do yourself.

Alternatively, contact S&W about repair/retro fit.

Good luck,
Greg

[pineappleshooter]

Wow, I'll have to take some Kroil with me next time I go out to a night club. :D

"I'm here til Thursday, don't forget to try the veal!"

[mr surveyor]

If Smith doesn't have any of the old "flat latch" bolts on hand you probably going to have to do a lot of 'leg work' to find one. I suggest giving any of these folks a try:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/
http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/
http://www.gun-parts.com/index.html/
Post on the S&W forums: http://smith-wessonforum.com

It appears fitting more modern parts is possible:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/195492-replacing-flat-latch.html

Perhaps a comparison of the old and new part would give you an idea where the old part needs tweaking and if it's something you could do yourself.

Alternatively, contact S&W about repair/retro fit.

Good luck,
Greg


Thanks for the links. At this point, I really don't care how "original" this thing is (I will certaily save the original parts-even though the bolt is boogered), but I do plan to make it 100% functional. The new bolt is obviously for a newer model. I didn't mic the cylinder pin intercace stud, but from a quick visual it appears the new bolt has a smaller stud than the original, and it's not quite as tight a fit in the cylinder pin lock-up hole. But, it does fit well in the frame and aligns perfectly with the cylinder pin opening. My original bolt spring and plunger are also fine. If the new model thumb piece and thumb piece nut fit the 1963 frame.... and I would only assume they should .... I'll order those two parts and verify proper "fit" before I sand a thousandth or so off the interface pin as it does extend a bit too far past the recoil face and puts the cylinder pin into a bit of a bind.

If I get the new parts to function properly, I may try to tweak the old bolt to properly align...... any tips on that little chore would be greatly appreciated.

surv

[Barth]

Thanks for the links. At this point, I really don't care how "original" this thing is (I will certaily save the original parts-even though the bolt is boogered), but I do plan to make it 100% functional. The new bolt is obviously for a newer model. I didn't mic the cylinder pin intercace stud, but from a quick visual it appears the new bolt has a smaller stud than the original, and it's not quite as tight a fit in the cylinder pin lock-up hole. But, it does fit well in the frame and aligns perfectly with the cylinder pin opening. My original bolt spring and plunger are also fine. If the new model thumb piece and thumb piece nut fit the 1963 frame.... and I would only assume they should .... I'll order those two parts and verify proper "fit" before I sand a thousandth or so off the interface pin as it does extend a bit too far past the recoil face and puts the cylinder pin into a bit of a bind.

If I get the new parts to function properly, I may try to tweak the old bolt to properly align...... any tips on that little chore would be greatly appreciated.

surv

I like Numrich a lot too for my S&W gun parts.
Sig and lots of other guns too.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/

One more obscure link is;
http://www.hoosiergunworks.com
They don't take internet orders.
You have to call.

[mr surveyor]

The new "modern" thumbpiece and thumbpiece nut came in today. They fit properly, although the MIM thumbpiece being blued, as well as the nut being blued tend to add to what I already consider the trashy look of a mirror finish nickle plate gun. But, the parts will fit. I took a little off the bolt today, but still left some protrusion through the recoil shield/breech face. It still puts too much tension on the center pin when opening the cylinder, as well as causing a bit of hang when closing the cylinder (unless you manually retract the bolt a tiny bit with the thumbpiece. I ran out of play time tonight, but another 10-15 minutes to dis-assemble, then work down another thousandth or so off the bolt with 400-600 paper (and polish with 1200-1500) should take care of it. There's no doubt that the original bolt was either out of spec from day one, or it was damaged by someone trying to open the cylinder when it was glued shut at the crane.

I'll still keep my eye out for an original bolt.....may run across a "parts gun" some day, or one of my gun shop buddies may luck on one. At least the original nickle thumbpiece, or even a stainless one from a Model 60 would help keep that shiney nickle from looking so much like a pimp gun. That silly blued thumpiece really sticks out.

surv

[Standpat]

I'm pretty sure that Kroil should NOT be used on nickel plated guns. Don't be in a rush to use it. On the other hand, if you know anybody with an ultrasonic cleaner it might be a good time to visit them. (Harbor Freight even sells them.)

Personally, I think everyone should have at least one S&W J-Frame in their collection. They are truly a classic American handgun.

[gb6491]

... At least the original nickle thumbpiece, or even a stainless one from a Model 60 would help keep that shiney nickle from looking so much like a pimp gun. That silly blued thumpiece really sticks out.

surv

http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/brush-plating-products/plug-n-plate-kits/plug-n-plate-nickel-kit.html

[mr surveyor]

finally took the time today to finish working the bolt down to size. I left it just a tiny bit long thinking it will wear in after a few hundred open/close cycles. Had hopes that mrs surv would be interested in this one, and had ideas of conning Bawanna into making some custom grips for her, but alas, she just don't care for DA revolvers.

Darn, another excellent small handgun I will have to make use of myself. :)

[JFootin]

finally took the time today to finish working the bolt down to size. I left it just a tiny bit long thinking it will wear in after a few hundred open/close cycles. Had hopes that mrs surv would be interested in this one, and had ideas of conning Bawanna into making some custom grips for her, but alas, she just don't care for DA revolvers.

Darn, another excellent small handgun I will have to make use of myself. :)

Darn! ;):rolleyes: I can still put you in touch with my gunsmith if you want a real trigger job done on it. Like I say, my 638 is 4.25 lb DA and it goes bang every time. It has become my favorite gun! :D

[DeaconKC]

finally took the time today to finish working the bolt down to size. I left it just a tiny bit long thinking it will wear in after a few hundred open/close cycles. Had hopes that mrs surv would be interested in this one, and had ideas of conning Bawanna into making some custom grips for her, but alas, she just don't care for DA revolvers.

Darn, another excellent small handgun I will have to make use of myself. :)

If it is a burden to you, send it to Deacon's Home for Excess Firearms......

[mr surveyor]

darn Deac..... I was about to box it up and drop it off at the post office, then I noticed your address was in Illinois. Now, you know that just ain't gonna work. I'll figure out something useful for it:D

[DeaconKC]

I HATE living in this kommunist state!

[mr surveyor]

I feel for ya, Bud

This afternoon I realized I had given every single piece of .38 spl brass I had collected, either to a friend that started reloading last year, or to my Son that started dabbling a bit this year. So, not having any brass to load up, I considered going to wallyworld (I despise doing business with them....don't like all the chicom crap they sell) and buying one box of whatever decent American made .38 spl they had on the shelf. At the last minute, I called one of my gunshop buddies out in the sticks to ask if he had any new brass available. A few minutes later I was pipcking up his only 100 ct bag of new Starline .38 spl brass for $16.75 OTD:). So, now I don't have to subject my most recently acquired revolver to overpriced factory ammo.

I didn't get to take the day off myself today, but Thursday is my Son's B-day and I'm letting him take off..... I'll be doing a bit of reloading, and maybe a range trip to shoot a few through the M36.... and the SP101....and the SuperRedhawk.......then cleaning brass.......

Nothing like life in the slow lane:D