P45 misfires/light primer strike

[Charlie98]

I bought a used P45 (KP4544) some time ago and am having problems with it misfiring. I have torn the slide down and cleaned it, lubing it very lightly with TetraLube. I did not break the frame down.

About 1 of every 3-4 rounds will not fire, the firing pin light-strikes the primer, leaving a small dimple. Most of the time I can cock it (short-stroke the slide) and it will fire on the second try. I've checked that it's into full battery before pulling the trigger. Factory or handloads, either or.

I also own a CW9... and have had nothing but 100% service out of it. Comparing the two actions... the P45 seems to have a lighter trigger pull, the sound of the striker moving forward ('firing' if you will) is not the robust snap! that the CW9 exhibits. It almost sounds like a bad or worn striker spring, but would be interested in your comments before I start jacking with it.

I contacted the original owner and he says he never had a problem with it... I have had nothing but problems with it. I wanted this pistol as my primary carry piece, but right now I don't trust it; I have absolute trust in my CW9 and right now it is my carry piece... but I trust a .45 more than the 9mm. :tongue:

[jocko]

probably why the original owner peddledthegun. Lite strikes is a sign of an out of time gun, could be numerous things, IMO all of which needs to have kahr do the service I would not break the frame down. I would call kahr, ask for Jay,state urissue, .

I willPM u.

[Charlie98]

Update:

I did finally find the 2 previous threads on light strikes with the P45, I'll have to do some more investigation and see what I find.

Again, those posts are a little old, if anyone has anything else add, I'd love to hear it.

[Charlie]

For some unknown reason some people think that reduced power springs make a gun shoot better or improve the trigger pull,reset or length of pull. I think someone may have dropped a reduced power Wolf spring set in it. As stated by jocko, send it to Karh, if it isnt springs they will fix the problem and thank you for buying their product. Folks it don't get any better than that.

[jocko]

well it can't hurt to change um but the reduced power springs are not that weak. Glocks come with 5# But u bought a used gun to, so u just don't know for sure. springs and that is what wolffs reduced power springs are, so IMO that i snot the issue but certainly a place to start to. Who kows maybe someone even cut a coil off the factory springs to get a reduction,. The wolffs 5# striker spring IMO will cause no issues, to date I have yet to ever read of one that did, for for that matter even the kahr factory springs, Being u have torn the slide down, we can now assume also that the striker channelis spiffy clean, so u have eliminated that possability. U can't hurt a thing buy changing that spring either. I would bet a call to kahr would get u one in the mail pronto. One way or the other ur gonna get the gun running right. We have though seen with a new striker spring that the troublesome gun is no longer trouble, so indeed start there first.. Not all springs are created equal either.

Is the striker itself OK. easy way to check thatis to psh inon the strikerblock and then just puch the striker forward and see what protrudes out the front of the breech face. I would think though if the striker was bad u would see alot more light strikes. Just sayin.

[Charlie98]

After reading the other posts I'm going to check the firing pin protrusion (I have my CW9 to compare it to...) I did check that it protruded when I have it stripped down, but didn't think to compare length; I was more checking for fitment and something catching/dragging.

I routinely replace the springs on my Kimber 1911, these Kahrs are the first poly-framed pistols and the first striker fired pistols I've ever owned... both of which I thought I would never own (let alone another 9mm, but that is another post.) I need to get a set for the P45 and the CW9 (I bought both used) and tear them down again.

The intriguing thing is the funky reduced trigger pull (vs the CW9) and the fact that when the striker releases it just feels 'mushy,' (again, vs the CW9.)

I did read on the other posts that Kahr may have introduced a redisgned (lengthened) striker, going off my SN# my pistol is a 2006-2007 so it's fairly old... maybe I got one of the shortys.

I'm going to dig through the brass and see if all the primer strikes are light, maybe there is some information there, too.

[muggsy]

Some things to check for;
1. Check to make sure that the gun is fully going into battery.
2. Check to see if the striker channel is clean and free of lube.
3. Check firing pin protrusion.
4. Check for a broken firing pin.
5. Check the striker spring.

If it were my gun I would replace the recoil and striker spring just as a matter of course.
You did say that the gun was used.

[jocko]

After reading the other posts I'm going to check the firing pin protrusion (I have my CW9 to compare it to...) I did check that it protruded when I have it stripped down, but didn't think to compare length; I was more checking for fitment and something catching/dragging.

I routinely replace the springs on my Kimber 1911, these Kahrs are the first poly-framed pistols and the first striker fired pistols I've ever owned... both of which I thought I would never own (let alone another 9mm, but that is another post.) I need to get a set for the P45 and the CW9 (I bought both used) and tear them down again.

The intriguing thing is the funky reduced trigger pull (vs the CW9) and the fact that when the striker releases it just feels 'mushy,' (again, vs the CW9.)

I did read on the other posts that Kahr may have introduced a redisgned (lengthened) striker, going off my SN# my pistol is a 2006-2007 so it's fairly old... maybe I got one of the shortys.

I'm going to dig through the brass and see if all the primer strikes are light, maybe there is some information there, too.

would be a new one on me with the supposed newly designed striker. I tend to believe that is defi itely not true.Kahr has never had strike rissues, although we have seen a couple here that have had broken striker tips, but that is product material failur, not really design failure

the funkly trigger ur referring to is simply the gun is somehow,some where out of time. do the spring changes as u suggested, eliminate that possability.If that fails. I think u need to call kahr and ask for Jay and discuss it. We have seen a few comeback with total new slides on them, so sometimes we can't trouble shoot all the issues as we don't have the capability of just exchanging parts until it goes bang. KAHR DOES

[Charlie98]

Went back out to the range today... first 2 mags through the pistol (12 rounds,) 4 didn't fire. I did check to make sure the slide was fully into battery before each round.

The 4 that didn't fire...

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x39/Charlie_98/101_3251.jpg

...and the 6 (of 8) that did.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x39/Charlie_98/101_3250.jpg

I won't be able to bring it home until August (I have it in Nevada, I'm going home to Texas for a week before I can come back and take it home,) so I won't be able to break it down and check the parts. In the meantime, I'll order a new spring set.

The pistol itself is dandy... the more I shoot it, the more I like it (minus the misfires ;) ) it's not as handy as the CW9, but fits my hand a little better... and has that .45 cal hole in the end.

[TucsonMTB]

Even where you are visiting, they should have auto parts outlets. Find some brake cleaner and use the hole in the bottom of the slide to spray the heqq out of the striker channel. Hold the striker back to get at good flow out of the breach face for some of the spraying. Then, cover the hole to force the spray out the back. Usually enough spraying will dislodge the cr@p and stop the light strikes you are experiencing. Don't lubricate the channel. It is designed to operate dry and clean.

I suspect you will have more fun during your next outing after the spray cleaning session.

Best of luck!

[jocko]

those primer hits sure look good to me. Just sayin

[n9znd]

I have a CW9 that I purchased 7/9 and shot on 7/13 and had several light strikes. It got worse with more rounds through it. Had already cleaned it with CRC brake clean before shooting it. So I went home and took the upper completly apart and cleaned it and left it dry. The light strikes was way worse. It was a chore to even shoot 25 rounds so I just stopped. Called Kahr Monday morning and they sent me a Fedex Tag. Hopefully things get resolved. I had a CM9 that was flawless but felt it was just a tad to little for what I wanted. When it work it was accurate and I could shoot it as well as my G19. Jim

[jocko]

kahr will just replce parts until the issue goes away. Unfortunatl;ey we dopn'thae that option. They will get u right..

[n9znd]

jacko, I truly believe they will get it right. I knew quite a bit about the Kahr Firearms from having my CM9 which I loved. Had to have another Kahr after going through a couple different guns from a 1911 to a Glock 19. Done very well in IDPA with the G19 but feel that I shoot the CW9 even Better. I love the single stack 9 platform. Hopefully it will come back before my next match here in a couple of weeks so I can shoot it. Jim

[Charlie98]

I love the single stack 9 platform.

For concealment, I think a single-stack 9 makes so much more sense than a double-stack... it defeats the purpose (concealability.) I love my CW9!


those primer hits sure look good to me. Just sayin

The primer strikes on the unfired rounds are obviously light, my other thought is they are off center. If a light strike like that exhibited hit the center of the primer (right on top of the anvil,) maybe ignition would be more positive.

I got my new spring sets Friday, I'll take them with me and replace them when I get back out to Nevada.


Don't lubricate the channel. It is designed to operate dry and clean.


I initially cleaned the bolt with Hoppes and lubed it with Tetra (a very light lube,) but I will pull the bolt apart and hose it with brake cleaner and leave it dry and see where that gets me. I'm really hoping the spring will make a difference.

[Charlie98]

Just an update...

I replaced all 4 springs in my P45 and finally saw some results: 100% with 100rds factory hardball ammo. Still having some misfires with my reloads, though.

I think I'm going to try to polish down the striker shoulder a little and see if I can't get better ignition with my handloads.

[CJB]

If thats the case, then your primers are almost certainly not fully seated. I'd not mess with the striker at all.

[CJB]

..........or........

Your rounds are a little long.

I've seen it where the bullet is touching rifling, but case gets driven in on primer impact.

Make absolutely sure you're not crimping-in. The case walls on a 45 should be straight, not flared out, and not crimped in. A taper crimp will do the job, but... some folks over do it, and end up with undersize cases (diameter). Even with a taper crimp, crimp only enough to straighten the case flare.

Residual case flare can cause a softening impact on the primer

And... as was first stated, primers not seated, or seated on very dirty pockets

[Charlie98]

..........or........

Your rounds are a little long.

I've seen it where the bullet is touching rifling, but case gets driven in on primer impact.

Make absolutely sure you're not crimping-in. The case walls on a 45 should be straight, not flared out, and not crimped in. A taper crimp will do the job, but... some folks over do it, and end up with undersize cases (diameter). Even with a taper crimp, crimp only enough to straighten the case flare.

Residual case flare can cause a softening impact on the primer

And... as was first stated, primers not seated, or seated on very dirty pockets

I appreciate the comments, but I've been reloading for the 45ACP for over 25 years... never had a problem like this through thousands of rounds through 4 other pistols. I do taper crimp, but just enough to knock the case bell back in. I'm also aware of primer seating depth and my primers are seating at flush (you can see them in the photos...)

I will admit, these striker-fired pistols are new to me, but they still operate within the same ammunition parameters as, say, a 1911... or they should. The fact that replacing the springs increased the reliable ignition rate should tell you something. I still think there is something going down with the firing pin protrusion, so that's where I'm headed next.

[CJB]

Seating flush may not be good enough, seating till fully seated is good enough. Mildly compressed primer are not a bad thing. I've found that seated primers are almost always "under flush". If you meant that you don't have any high primers... I understand, just clarifying for newbies to reloading.

[Charlie98]

Seating flush may not be good enough, seating till fully seated is good enough. Mildly compressed primer are not a bad thing. I've found that seated primers are almost always "under flush". If you meant that you don't have any high primers... I understand, just clarifying for newbies to reloading.

Gotcha.... I load my 45's on a Hornady ProJector... I have lots of leverage to seat my primers... :D

You mention one thing, though... an 'under flush' seated primer may result in a light primer strike, a severe case, perhaps, but it's possible. I'll have to look into that, too.

[ajiarcher]

The only time I disassembled the slide, I did find some metal debri in the striker channel, the striker itself was slighty discolored so I cleaned it up with very fine steel wool and simichrome polish. I have never had a failure to fire, but have had failure to feed, primarily with winchester ball ammo. Also there was a definite buildup of carbon at the bottom of the striker channel that in time may keep striker from fully seating.
I'm no expert but I would remove striker and inspect channel for debri and carbon fouling and replace spring, that would be cheapest and easiest way to get a grip on problem, at least it's a good place to start.If that don't fix problem than seek professional advice.
I considered bying a Wolf striker spring, but on their website they caution you not to use it on a carry gun, although many people have bought them and had no problems with their 5lb. spring.

[jocko]

The only time I disassembled the slide, I did find some metal debri in the striker channel, the striker itself was slighty discolored so I cleaned it up with very fine steel wool and simichrome polish. I have never had a failure to fire, but have had failure to feed, primarily with winchester ball ammo. Also there was a definite buildup of carbon at the bottom of the striker channel that in time may keep striker from fully seating.
I'm no expert but I would remove striker and inspect channel for debri and carbon fouling and replace spring, that would be cheapest and easiest way to get a grip on problem, at least it's a good place to start.If that don't fix problem than seek professional advice.
I considered bying a Wolf striker spring, but on their website they caution you not to use it on a carry gun, although many people have bought them and had no problems with their 5lb. spring.

a liability statement, nothing more. My glock came with a 5# swtriker, so the wolffs is certainlyt not hairy. Cou7rse what do I know, I have over 32K thorugh my 54# striker and nairy an issue..

[Charlie98]

What is the factory weight on the striker spring? I thought Wolff made the springs for Kahr?

[dorangolv]

Remove the rear retainer plate from the back of the slide.
Disassemble the slide and check the length of the striker assembly from tip to end. Perhaps the tip is short, mushroomed, chipped or otherwise damaged. If the gun was used, I wouldn't be surprised if somebody had the slide torn down and dropped the striker on the ground.:eek:

[hardluk1]

Reviving an old died tread.

[Charlie98]

Actually, I replaced the striker... Eliminating every variable I can. What I'm convinced of, in my case, is a short chambered barrel.


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