CW9 Striker not working

[Diocoles]

Firing at the range and went to pull the trigger and .... nothing.
Waited.

Dropped the mag, was able to cycle the action and drop out a round.

Verified it was cleared and cycle the slide and tried the trigger again and nothing.
Goes back not releasing the striker.

Couldn't get it field stripped. No fire no slide move. :31:

Had to mount it in a vise, all cautions taken.
Got the back of the slide disassembled. Ya really need four hands and a vise to do it that way. Managed, but what a pain the arse.

Removed everything, complete slide tear down.
Nothing.

Checked the frame, slide and looked under the magnifying glasses at each part and nothing.

Reassembled it and again, no release of striker.
Disassembled it the back door way again... :31:

Everything appears to be working.
I did notice only one possible clue.

Pulling the trigger and watching the bar and then the cams...
The cam on the right that lifts the trigger block is going level with the frame, but not higher. There's still at least an 1/8" more upward movement if I do it with my finger on the cam.

I don't have a small enough hex key to fit the right side frame piece to take that plate off and look at that part...

Ideas, suggestions?????
I'd take pics, but they don't show anything... looks normal, checked the alignment of the springs and no apparent damage to anything other than what I can't see under that little outside cover...

[Diocoles]

p.s.

sniffle... :(

[espresso]

That sucks I'm hurtin for you.
Cw9 is usually like the energizer bunny.

That's above my head, hope you get it going.
Keep us posted

[JFootin]

p.s.

sniffle... :(

Tissue?
http://www.manorhg.com/store/images/MT_Toscana_Rec_Tissue.jpg

[Diocoles]

^ thanks.. sniffle..

[gb6491]

When you say:
"Reassembled it and again, no release of striker.
Disassembled it the back door way again... :31:"
are you testing with ammo or can't field strip after dry firing?
Regards,
Greg

[Diocoles]

No ammo.

Rack the slide and the trigger just pulls all the way back.
No longer able to remove slide.

Striker is not being engaged or is blocked.

Having to depress the extractor pin, hold the slide back with a wood block, nice little square piece of wood comes in handy for a lot of things. :)
pull back the striker pin and lift out the back plate all at the same time and gotta be sure not to let anything fly.
Remove the striker, extractor and the slide just comes right off.
No damage to any visible parts. No missing pieces, corners or anything.

The striker retainer is in fine shape, removed it, verified spring tension, cleaned it replaced it reassemled the slide, everything works fine.

Checked the frame verified when I pull the trigger, the trigger bar actually moves, is still inserted in the spring on the right side and the cams move as stated above. It'll get level with the top of the slide and no higher.
Put pressure on it while pulling the trigger and it pushes properly.

with the trigger depressed all the way, the cam comes up to the top of the slide. I can then press on the other cam an the right side one goes up about 1/8" more. Suspect the lack of movement...something in the upper back right hand corner of the trigger mechanism.

Unable to locate a nice ... diagram on how the parts should completely interface.

A moving internal of the trigger group would be nice...can't find one though.

Just got back from the range, 22LR and RIA TAC 9mm day. Ruger SR22 is nice.

Dinner time. I'll be back in a while.

I'll try to get some pics of the inside just in case I'm looking right at the problem and don't see it....:blushing:

I'll get a comlete pic layout of the parts for visual verification and try to take a flash pic of the innerds. I'll post in a bit.

[kerby9mm]

The striker block cam is supposed to come up only to even with the frame rail. My mk9 was sent back because it came up higher than the frame and put more than optimal pressure on the striker block. Kahr fixed that on Dec. Just 2 weeks ago my striker assembly broke and was stuck back. Kahr put in a new assembly and it works fine now. Put 100 rounds thru it today. IMO let Kahr fix it.

[LampShadeActual]

First Most) Its not an Allen head but a mini-Torx on the side plate.

Second Most) Very likely your trigger bar is not rising to engage the rotating sear and drop safety combination. It isn't that it doesn't release the striker, it never engages/tensions it. The striker is PROBABLY not retracted sometimes when you are cycling live ammo. Think the firing pin tip sticks out while you drop the slide. Bad ju ju.

Third Most) The damn thing is going to go off if you keep putting ammo into it.

Forth Most) What you are doing fooling with the slide and striker while mounted is not user servicable activity and beyond the pale of good sense. Safety trumps niceness here.

[Diocoles]

First Most) Its not an Allen head but a mini-Torx on the side plate.

I know that, just don't have one that small. I can only tell with my magnifying glasses on.



Second Most) Very likely your trigger bar is not rising to engage the rotating sear and drop safety combination. It isn't that it doesn't release the striker, it never engages/tensions it. The striker is PROBABLY not retracted sometimes when you are cycling live ammo. Think the firing pin tip sticks out while you drop the slide. Bad ju ju.

Pin doesn't come out till I apply forward pressure on the striker.

(QUOTE]
Third Most) The damn thing is going to go off if you keep putting ammo into it.[/QUOTE]

I like that about it.



Forth Most) What you are doing fooling with the slide and striker while mounted is not user servicable activity and beyond the pale of good sense. Safety trumps niceness here.

Disassembly of the slide is simple. It's just when you have to do it while the slide is stuck on that makes it difficult.
If you can't detail strip your pistol safely, it's time to learn. :rolleyes:


I'm going to post some pics, some are worthless. Others may give a clue.
I have to see if I can get better shots of the inside of the frame.

[Diocoles]

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts18.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts17.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts16.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts15.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts14.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts13.jpg

[Diocoles]

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts12.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts11.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts10.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts5.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts4.jpg

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/Diocoles/Kahrallparts.jpg

[LampShadeActual]

Interesting pictures of a disassembled slide, but not relevant. The problem is almost certainly, 99:1, in the bottom half which remains assembled.

If the rotating cam assembly that retracts the striker, depresses the drop safety, and then releases the now energized striker is all in one piece, i.e., not physically broken or fallen off a broken pin, then the trigger drawbar operating as a disconnector is the problem. That's in the bottom half.

One of the fluff and buff the partially finished gun kit problems my CW9 had related to the drawbar having sharp burrs all over it chewing up the inside of the plastic recess inside the side plate of which you mention needs the right screw driver tip. By the way, operate the tip with your fingers, not with some big handle to avoid damage.

Additionally my slide was beating up the top of the disconnector feature on the trigger bar which was causing some of the problems. The burrs on the drawbar, the damage by the slide, and the "feathers" of plastic casting inside the frame made a mess.

I am glad you think you know where the striker is when you are playing with live ammo and a FUBAR gun. I am not so sure the striker will always be to the rear when going into lockup.

Since I am sure you will disassemble the side plate, do it gingerly. It is a small screw and thin plastic. Before disassembly, you should be able to tell exactly what is going on wrong with the BOTTOM half. The drawbar is apparently going to the rear, but not rising to catch the cam system. If it is rising, then the engagement surface of the drawbar is bent or broken off. If it is intact, then the cam segment the corresponds is missing or broken. There isn't much else to that design.

It should have been obvious looking at the bottom half without the slide.

[Diocoles]

Interesting pictures of a disassembled slide, but not relevant. The problem is almost certainly, 99:1, in the bottom half which remains assembled.

If the rotating cam assembly that retracts the striker, depresses the drop safety, and then releases the now energized striker is all in one piece, i.e., not physically broken or fallen off a broken pin, then the trigger drawbar operating as a disconnector is the problem. That's in the bottom half.

One of the fluff and buff the partially finished gun kit problems my CW9 had related to the drawbar having sharp burrs all over it chewing up the inside of the plastic recess inside the side plate of which you mention needs the right screw driver tip. By the way, operate the tip with your fingers, not with some big handle to avoid damage.

Additionally my slide was beating up the top of the disconnector feature on the trigger bar which was causing some of the problems. The burrs on the drawbar, the damage by the slide, and the "feathers" of plastic casting inside the frame made a mess.

I am glad you think you know where the striker is when you are playing with live ammo and a FUBAR gun. I am not so sure the striker will always be to the rear when going into lockup.

Since I am sure you will disassemble the side plate, do it gingerly. It is a small screw and thin plastic. Before disassembly, you should be able to tell exactly what is going on wrong with the BOTTOM half. The drawbar is apparently going to the rear, but not rising to catch the cam system. If it is rising, then the engagement surface of the drawbar is bent or broken off. If it is intact, then the cam segment the corresponds is missing or broken. There isn't much else to that design.

It should have been obvious looking at the bottom half without the slide.

Again, no ammo. Empty. Nada.

Thanks, your viewpoint was able to give me a better visual and also the area I've kinda isolated it to. Better idea what to expect and look for. ;)

I'm gonna take a trip to Harbor Freight tomorrow to find some nice tiny malnourished torq wrenchs...

another P.S.

Took a better look inside. It's a new replacement frame. I am seeing quite a bit of plastic ... threads and Klingons.... :p

I'll have to clean this up a bit to see if that's adding to the issue.

[LampShadeActual]

Harbor Freight tomorrow to find some nice tiny malnourished torq wrenchs...


An auto parts store with the "100" piece screwdriver set or a Lowe's kit of the same variety will be a lot higher quality.

[Sweaty Bullitts]

It sounds like your problem is basically the same as mine. Kahr did email me a pre-paid shipping label, and I sent it in on August 3rd. I have not received it back yet. I gave them (Jay) the link to my post:

http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=13973

but in his reply email to me Jay said he didn't think a broken cocking cam spring was the problem. In the note describing the problem that I sent in with the gun, I asked him to explain what the problem actually was. If he does so, I'll post the information here.

Sweaty

UPDATE: I was right!! Kahr replaced the cocking cam spring, and now it is all better!! I sent it in on 8/3, and received it back on 8/23.

[muggsy]

This may help to diagnose your problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYRHpolEC_Y&playnext=1&list=PL9C885DAED1AA2EC2&feature=results_main

[Diocoles]

^ nice video. Thanks, I'm going to view that in slow mo to watch the internals. I love visual illustrations. :popcorn:

This was a replacement frame. The right front guide rail had snapped in half on the last one. It still went bang....So they kindly replaced the frame.
Since the frame was new, less than 100 rounds, I sent it in, waiting for it to come back. Yes, they sent a prepaid shipping label. Nice. Been gone almost 2 weeks.

Oh look, a bunnie... seriously, just saw the notice on the door a few minutes ago.
Fedex has it and I'll get it tomorrow on the way home. :D

See what the note with it had to say.

[MW surveyor]

Probably "problem fixed, returned to sender".

Sorry, just couldn't resist. Hope that all is well.

[Diocoles]

Trigger bar was replaced.
No other info... :(

[TucsonMTB]

A faulty trigger bar would do it. http://home.mindspring.com/%7Ejustsomeguy/thumbsup.gif

[Diocoles]

after about 150 rounds, it's still shooting like a champ.

Don't quite think the tech reassembled the right side panel as well as it was before.
I can feel the screw and the plate is visibly obvious, not like before.
Sure does kick though, and a bit of a bite on the right hand web.
Glad I'm used to a 1911 GI model.
Fellow shooter in lane next to me was asking what I was shooting cause it was so loud.
Just 9mm 115gr FMJ WWB. That 3" barrel...hmm

There's a lot more slop in the trigger pull though. Interesting.

I'm gonna have to look into tuning the trigger group...

Just thought I'd post a follow up after some range time.