CREAK! Goes my water heater

[Scoundrel]

OK, here's one for you folks that are experienced in house plumbing issues:

I replaced the sacrificial anode in a water heater, and flushed the heck out of the thing during that process.

Now, the thing creaks eerily sometimes. It sounds just like an old rusty screen door spring. I keep forgetting what it is, and thinking someone's opening the screen door outside my office.

I'm just about ready to go in there and perforate it with my CM9.

Any idea why the heck it's doing this, and how to stop it, short of replacing the heater?

[Tinman507]

Gas? Electric? Oil fired?
All you did was replace the anode and clean the mud & scale out of it?

[Longitude Zero]

Like Tinman posted, especially did you back flush and clean the tank out?

[Scoundrel]

Electric, 120V, 30 gallon. I flushed the hell out of it, water going both directions, until no more white crusty stuff could be found and the water was running clear.

[Tinman507]

I'm thinking you're now getting enough heat on the vessel to start cracking some scale and stuff loose. Likely also cracking it loose of the heating elements.

Might consider letting it run a few days and flush it again.

[Scoundrel]

Oh, I forgot to mention, I did this a couple months ago. Did not re-flush.

I guess what I want to know first is, will the damn thing explode?

And secondarily, how to make it stop creaking.

[Tinman507]

If the T&P relief valve is ok it won't explode. It's not dripping or anything is it?
I suppose the noise could be the valve with some crap under the seat.
Aside from that I don't know what else it could be. There's nothing in there except 2 elements and an anode.

http://www.fixingwaterheater.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/electric-water-heater-problems.jpg

[Scoundrel]

Relief valve seems to work fine.
No dripping.

[Tinman507]

http://www.fixingwaterheater.com/water-heater-makes-noises/

[Alfonse]

There is a date code on your water heater. It is usually the week (2 digits) and year of manufacture. If it is over 5 years old, replace it. Particularly a good idea of it is located in a place where leaking might cause other damage.

[Bawanna]

I recently went through this water heater business myself. If I ever build a house I'm gonna put the stupid thing in the center of a room where a man can get at the stupid thing.

I used to try and fix em, replace elements etc, anymore I just toss em and get a new one. They are like TV's, VCR's and all other appliances, not worth messing with. Junk when they leave the factory and junk when they leave your house.

If I had to work on water heaters for a living I'd be talking like Jocko all the time.

[jocko]

I "think" I might have to resemble that remark, I will let u know as soon as I figure out WTf u actually said. Just sayin

alittle info> I had my 5year wareranted waterheater go out at 3 years, so they gave me a new one nocharge. I had to pay to install it etc. anyway I commented to the technician putting it in that well at least I have a new one again with 5 year wareranty. He said oh nosir, u only have a 2 year warranty on this new one as u was given a new one in 3 years and that goes towards ur replacement warranty. They are gonna fokk u one way or the utter...Just sayin

[ltxi]

What bawanna said....at least about the water heater. Fixing/trying to fix these damn things no longer seems to make sense.

I opted for a permanent fix this spring when I replaced my 39 year old grossly oversize and inefficient gas boiler with a high efficiency unit. Went to a side arm water heater.

[tv_racin_fan]

I recently moved. House I now live in has one of those tankless water heaters. I can not believe the difference in my electric bill. Now I love it because I can have all the hot water I want.. three four showers in a row.. wash two loads of clothes the dishes and have a couple showers... and I hate it because the maximum temp is 125 and to get HOT water you can only use the HOT tap and even then it aint all that hot. Oh and the water heater is at one end of the house kitchen is in the middle back and the bathrooms are almost at the other end of the house.. got to run the hot water for a couple minutes before it gets hot.

[Bawanna]

Tankless water heater? Is that kind of like a lineless fishing pole.

Oh crap, I gave away my new invention. I was gonna call it my no more tangles fishing system, great for woman and kids and a lot of guys I know too.

I'm still working the bugs out of it, actually a lot of bugs. Actually all there is so far is bugs.

[Scoundrel]

This is an older unit, and out of warranty by some stretch. I considered replacing it, but a new one is several hundred dollars plus some soldering work because the bozo who installed it made it so that the drain screwed into the relief valve and routing the overflow outside cannot be unscrewed without cutting it. So if I cut it, then I have to make myself a new runoff for the relief valve.

Anyway, replacement for several hundred dollars plus soldering work vs. $25 for a new sacrifical anode and a bit of flushing. I removed the old anode and saw that while it was mostly gone, it did have a bit of stuff left on it, so the rest of the unit probably had not started getting eaten away.

The new anode is in there and it's working fine, and showing no signs of leaking or any other problem except that occasonal weird creaking.

So you can see why I might be loathe to go ahead and replace it now, after putting that work into it, with just one tiny little weirdness.

Anyway, the main reason these things fail and then explode all over the place is because people run them long past their warranty period without replacing the anode, which is designed to rust first. So then their anode is gone and their tank rusts away, and then BOOM when it gets weak.

If you take a good look at the heaters that have 12 year warranties instead of the usual 6 years, you'll find that those heaters have two anodes instead of just one. They are otherwise identical.

[JFootin]

I think you might be able to get a tax break by installing a tankless or high efficiency water heater.

[Scoundrel]

That might actually be a good idea in the small space that this one is in (my office). The 30-gallon model is taking a big chunk out of the bathroom. The shower/tub in there is rarely used.

[Ikeo74]

If the T&P relief valve is ok it won't explode. It's not dripping or anything is it?
I suppose the noise could be the valve with some crap under the seat.
Aside from that I don't know what else it could be. There's nothing in there except 2 elements and an anode.

http://www.fixingwaterheater.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/electric-water-heater-problems.jpg

OK, look at this picture. You said you replaced the Anode Rod. Did you also replace the Dip Tube next to the anode rod? It can be made of metal or plastic. The purpose of this tube is to direct the new cold water down to the center (or lower) of the tank before it enters the hot water. The reason for that is because if you just let the cold water flow on top of the hot water it creats steam and makes noise. So every time you use water from the tank, like a shower or running the dishwasher or washing up, and several new gollons of cold water enter it will make noise if the old tube is rusted out or missing. The fix is a new tube either plastic or copper. It is flared at the top. The flare keeps it in place. Next time it starts making noise check to see if you just used hot water from the tink. It will creak until the new water gets heated and then will stop. The tubes in old tanks corrode away and fall into the tank. The flared part is probably still there. If you replace it check for the old tube at the flare and remove it and any old remmants of it. You can make one out of copper or ABS if you can't buy one at a plumbing store. They used to sell them and maybe still do.

[les strat]

Mine (30 gal electric) started leaking a couple years ago, so I ran to Lowe's and bought another one. I was going to install it myself, but the way my wife and I were working opposite, there was no way I could do it and manage the kiddos while I installed it (multiple trips to Lowes, etc). I've done it before, and it would have been easy if I had the time.

So I told her to call a plumber to slap it in.
She sent me a text saying it was $800!!! And I almost passed out!!! It was a <$200 job!!!! They put a $40 expansion tank (by code), no overflow pan. That's it. I ALREADY HAD BOUGTH THE TANK! Pretty much a drop in and go. Found out later this plumber has a habit of ripping women and elderly people off. :84:

Lesson learned. Next time, I will do it myself.

I bought the 10 year warranty with my heater. Complete replacement if it craps out in that time, which I am sure it will as they are ALL POS's. But *I* will be the one installing it next time.

[ltxi]

My last stand alone was $600 installed from a trusted plumber. That was 2005 and it was still good when I replaced it.

The side arm, which required a goodly amount of re plumbing, was $2100. An expensive but elegant. permanent, and efficient solution that works well and freed up floor space.

[Scoundrel]

I did not replace the dip tube. I'm not sure it's possible to replace that in this model. I was not supposed to replace the anode rod, but I used a drill and some tin snips to locate and cut a hole to access it. This is a "non user serviceable" model that Sears designed to be used for 6 years and thrown out.

It creaks periodically all day whether I've just used hot water or not.

It doesn't have an expansion tank, and the creaking might be pressure, or it could be the dip tube thing.

I guess I'll start planning to replace it in the next couple of years.

[Ikeo74]

I did not replace the dip tube. I'm not sure it's possible to replace that in this model. I was not supposed to replace the anode rod, but I used a drill and some tin snips to locate and cut a hole to access it. This is a "non user serviceable" model that Sears designed to be used for 6 years and thrown out.

It creaks periodically all day whether I've just used hot water or not.

It doesn't have an expansion tank, and the creaking might be pressure, or it could be the dip tube thing.

I guess I'll start planning to replace it in the next couple of years.
On most water heaters all you have to do is disconnect the cold water inlet line from the heater, lift out the tube and drop another one into the tank. Re-attach the inlet line and you are done. Look up parts on their service page and see if they offer parts for your model.

[Scoundrel]

On most water heaters all you have to do is disconnect the cold water inlet line from the heater, lift out the tube and drop another one into the tank. Re-attach the inlet line and you are done. Look up parts on their service page and see if they offer parts for your model.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Water-heater-Parts/Model-153317332/0582/1081000/P9020200/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

They do not list a dip tube or an anode rod in the parts list. I bought a generic anode rod that was too long and cut it off with a hacksaw. I might be able to do the same with a dip tube, I suppose, if it is accessible from the cold water inlet as you say.

But like I said, not very user-serviceable. I had to employ a drill and tin-snips to uncover the anode rod.

Interesting, in the manual it says:

Strange Sounds
Possible noises due to expansion and contraction of some metal parts during periods of heat-up and cool-down do not represent harmful or dangerous conditions.

It just never made them before.

[Scoundrel]

Update: I don't think this thing HAS a dip tube. The connections are on the side. Cold water goes in the bottom, hot water comes out the top.

[nmkahrshooter]

Seems like a good idea to replace. Mine likes to crap out about every 6 years like clockwork!

[Ikeo74]

In that case you may be right. That is an unusual setup. How old is it?
Anyway, maybe someone other than me can suggest a remedy, good luck

[melissa5]

I had to have someone work on my water heater last week. It kept tripping the circuit breaker. So, I googled the problem and decided that a part was bad in the water heater and called a plumber. He comes out and says that everything checks out fine, but the expansion tank is rusting and needs to be replaced....$225. So then I call an electrician. He checks he circuit breaker and replaces one of the modules. The breaker still won't stay on. He checks the water heater and says that the bottom element is shorting out. He replaces the bottom element (without draining the tank...I was very impressed) and the water heater works...$107. All that for a water heater that is 8 yrs old and 3 years out of warranty. Plus, I had just replaced both elements about 6 months ago (did it myself!).

[40cw]

This is an older unit, and out of warranty by some stretch. I considered replacing it, but a new one is several hundred dollars plus some soldering work because the bozo who installed it made it so that the drain screwed into the relief valve and routing the overflow outside cannot be unscrewed without cutting it. So if I cut it, then I have to make myself a new runoff for the relief valve.

Anyway, replacement for several hundred dollars plus soldering work vs. $25 for a new sacrifical anode and a bit of flushing. I removed the old anode and saw that while it was mostly gone, it did have a bit of stuff left on it, so the rest of the unit probably had not started getting eaten away.

The new anode is in there and it's working fine, and showing no signs of leaking or any other problem except that occasonal weird creaking.

So you can see why I might be loathe to go ahead and replace it now, after putting that work into it, with just one tiny little weirdness.

Anyway, the main reason these things fail and then explode all over the place is because people run them long past their warranty period without replacing the anode, which is designed to rust first. So then their anode is gone and their tank rusts away, and then BOOM when it gets weak.

If you take a good look at the heaters that have 12 year warranties instead of the usual 6 years, you'll find that those heaters have two anodes instead of just one. They are otherwise identical.
just cut it and put it back together with a "Shark-Bite" or a "Gator-Bite) available at any Lowes or Home Depot, they are GREAT!