Kahr Lube Diagram

[johnh]

Here is the Kahr Lube Diagram from over at Glock Talk:

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a466/btowngeorge/KahrLubePoints.jpg
http://kahrtalk.com/members/johnh-albums-kahr-technical-information-picture48-kahr-lubrication-points.jpg
http://i66.tinypic.com/24njkuu.jpg
Many thanks to the original creator!

John

[at_liberty]

I noted that it says all "points" BUT 2, 3, & 5 without elaborating later. Those look to me to be points where I would use grease like Shooter's Choice in the syringe pack.

The other inference would be that one is using a Q-tip except at 2, 3, & 5. :confused:

[ripley16]

I noted that it says all "points" BUT 2, 3, & 5 without elaborating later. Those look to me to be points where I would use grease like Shooter's Choice in the syringe pack.

The other inference would be that one is using a Q-tip except at 2, 3, & 5. :confused:

I've always taken this to infer that using something larger, say a cleaning patch, works better on the "big" parts. Many people use patches to do the whole job.

I always use a tiny bit of TW25b on the areas where oil is prone to migrate or under higher stresses.

The chart is overall a terrific aide, especially for the novice shooter or new Kahr owner IMHO.

[jocko]

Love TW25, for me just har dto beat that lube, it doesn't run and stay right there..

[kramm]

Great info. Made a copy and I'll keep it with the instruction manual.

[bigmacque]

Has anybody alerted the mod's that the picture has disappeared?

[Riccardo]

Luckily I downloaded it and can repost!

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a466/btowngeorge/KahrLubePoints.jpg

[n11]

Luckily I downloaded it and can repost!
And I'll use my firs post on this forum to say thanks for doing that...very helpful.

[jocko]

n11: stick around we have alot more here to show u~!!!

[Bill K]

The two springs on my guide rod (PM9) appear to be captured. Can/should/must the springs be taken off in order to lube the guide rod?

[Bawanna]

The two springs on my guide rod (PM9) appear to be captured. Can/should/must the springs be taken off in order to lube the guide rod?

I'd say definitely NOT. That inner spring is a pain in the back side to get back on and the retainer nut shouldn't be messed with if it's tight and not working loose. Many have had them fall off at range. The gun still runs but you need to get a new one.

At most I'd just put a drop or two of oil on it thru the spring and let it go.

Most only replace the outer spring when the time comes and just leave the inner spring as is.

[jocko]

exactly what Bawanna says is the proper procedure. The outter spring on ur PM9 should slip right off..

[Iron Worker]

Met a guy out in NV desert that raved about his Kahr. All these sensitive lube points. My sig sauer p-229 doesn't require all those lube points. Its been flawless for 18 years.

[JFootin]

Yes, but your Sig isn't nearly as compact as Kahr guns, with all of the machinery occupying minimum space.

[Ressom]

I oiled parts 7 and 8 and this past weekend I disassembled my slide and there was a ton of oil in the firing pin chamber. I think I am now going to oil the corresponding contact points in the frame. And maybe use grease instead of oil.

How does that sound?

[jocko]

best keep any oil outof the striker channel. it ain't gonna rust, use that clean out hole on the bottom of the slide to clean that channel.

[MBFD]

I have a NEW PM9 and my recoil spring has NO nuts to tighten. It would seem that the inner spring that goes through the guide post should have some oil added - yes or no?

[mywytefeet]

Is it okay to skip oiling spot #7 and #8? I am new to Kahrs and this forum. I am a previous GLOCK owner but got sick of the thickness. That being said, I always stuck to the rule of never getting any oil near the firing pin. Wouldn't oiling #7 and #8 cause oil to get on the firing pin? Are oiling these parts absolutely necessary? Thanks!

[gb6491]

I use a dab of grease on those areas (alternately, you could lube the lobes on the cocking cam where they would come into contact with spots 7 and 8). That said you could probably get by without any lube on those spots, but you increase the rate of wear on three parts critical to firing the pistol.
Regards,
Greg

BTW, welcome to the forums:)

[ripley16]

Met a guy out in NV desert that raved about his Kahr. All these sensitive lube points. My sig sauer p-229 doesn't require all those lube points. Its been flawless for 18 years.

Sig recommends the entire gun be rubbed with a oily patch, so in that respect you are correct... the Kahr has points, the Sig has just one BIG point.:cool:

[deanp1964]

an older post - but I'm glad I found it.
Thank you to the OP!

[Mike1948]

I just took apart my brand new PM9 to clean and lube it. The pickup rail surface, number 9 in the lube diagram, shows a great deal of wear, like I would expect to find on a pistol that is one or two years old. Is this normal on a Kahr pistol fresh from the factory? It was not the case on any of the Glocks I have owned.

[sas PM9]

I just took apart my brand new PM9 to clean and lube it. The pickup rail surface, number 9 in the lube diagram, shows a great deal of wear, like I would expect to find on a pistol that is one or two years old. Is this normal on a Kahr pistol fresh from the factory? It was not the case on any of the Glocks I have owned.

Mike:

A brand new PM9 may have been test fired at the factory, but probably not too many rounds.
Makes me wonder about the "brand new" part.
That rail does rub over every round put through the gun, but shouldn't show much "wear".

I have probably 600 rounds through mine and after a cleaning it shows no "wear".

-steve

PS. Pictures would really help.

[pocket pistol]

Great post... Thanks.

[jocko]

I just took apart my brand new PM9 to clean and lube it. The pickup rail surface, number 9 in the lube diagram, shows a great deal of wear, like I would expect to find on a pistol that is one or two years old. Is this normal on a Kahr pistol fresh from the factory? It was not the case on any of the Glocks I have owned.

what ur seeing is that matted finish kahr puts on thier stainless slides and barrel. Your pickup rail is pure stainless, and all it doe sit move the brass casing forward. There really is no wear tere. Ur just seeing fromn the test firing that outter coating coing off. I just polished the hell out ofmy pickup rail and then I with a finger of some gun grease just rub that complete rail (nhterface bar). Ur gun is OK. My rail on y PM9 is 5 years old and 32K+ rounds thorugh it and there just is virtually no wear as stainless trumps brass as far as durability.

Ur ok, just shoot it like u stole it.

[mspiredm3]

Is it just me or is the diagram/pic in the OP not working?

[crazymailman]

Is it just me or is the diagram/pic in the OP not working?

You're right, it's not working, , but scroll down to post #7 and it's there.

[dlhamil]

I'm happy to report (as of 1/26/2012) that I have my first Kahr firearm (a CM9) and thank you too for posting this. I also checked out the other prep tips so will follow/perform all of this before heading to range.

thanks,
David

[East River Guide]

Is it okay to skip oiling spot #7 and #8? I am new to Kahrs and this forum. I am a previous GLOCK owner but got sick of the thickness. That being said, I always stuck to the rule of never getting any oil near the firing pin. Wouldn't oiling #7 and #8 cause oil to get on the firing pin? Are oiling these parts absolutely necessary? Thanks!

I think that is a good question. Glock says not to introduce any lubricants into the striker channel. In the Lenny Magill video the Kahr striker is clearly lubed and Lenny says that is a good thing. I didn't see any kind of plastic channel liner in the Kahr like the Glocks have but the reason Glock says not to oil the channel is to avoid any gunk buildup (and maybe hydraulic friction) which would seem to be applicable to any striker fired gun.

[OldLincoln]

I forgot #7 was even there, it should not be for oil. I put TW25 grease in all placwes it says "coat" and oil those saying oli EXCEPT #7. I do very lightly coat the front side of the striker tab sticking up as the cam works that. But then I also lightly coat the cams.

[Kal0348]

I just bought a CW40 yesterday, and haven't fired it yet. I want to clean and lube it correctly, and am reading some of the threads and posts in this Kahr-Tech section to learn as much as I can about taking care of this pistol.

I have other pistols by other manufacturers, and I really don't care for the way they feel in my hand. At the LGS yesterday I picked up the CW40, and I knew I had to take it home.

I know this thread is about lubing the pistols, and I've been using Hornady One Shot spray lube on my other guns, after blasting away the crud with Gunscrubbber synthetic safe spray.

Will this Hornady lube work ok on my Kahr? I printed a copy of the lube diagram here, and I want to make sure I use the right stuff on my first Kahr.

By the way, I'm having a bear of a time lining up the witness marks to remove and re-install the slide release, and I'm afraid I'm gonna shoot my eye out with the guide rod/spring when trying to re-install after maintenance. Any hints on how to put the pistol back together? My arthritic hands would be eternally grateful.;)

Thanks for your help here.

[jocko]

try ur hornady one shot spray and if it works OK in the gun then stick with it. lots of good lubes out there, so we each have our own desires but they are all better than no lube at all. I am no tn any positon to tell anyone wha tto use or not to use. If it worked in other guns, then why would it not work in a Kahr.???

The witness mark thinbg, in time u will get used to it. The guide rod spring will after a 200 rounds be alot easier to insert to. Give it some time to take it re designed set and u will be OK with it. Ur doing OK..

[JFootin]

Here's what I do to line up the takedown marks:


put a chop stick, pointed end out, between my teeth.
Using both hands to line the marks up, then lean over there and insert the pointy end between the barrel and the breech face, adjusting it up and down until the marks allign.
Use the plastic handle of a screwdriver to push the end of the slide stop pin in on the right side. (This gets easier as the gun gets broken in.)
Slide the screwdriver carefully under the slide stop to nudge it further out. (Use a piece of cloth if you worry about scratching anything.)
Pull the slide stop the rest of the way out by hand.
Grasp the gun with your finger on the trigger, pull the trigger, remove the chop stick and take the slide off by sliding it forward. (If it sticks, it is usually the cocking cams near the back that are holding it. Move the slide back a little bit and play with the trigger until the cams lay down and get out of the way. Then, it will slide right off.)

I have crippled hands. I use a rag to cushion things and to catch the recoil spring if it tries to go flying. Then, I just keep working at it until it goes in. That spring will take a set and get a little easier to handle after you have put a few boxes of ammo thru the gun.

When you are positioning the recoil spring assembly before putting it in, allign the open front end of the spring toward the barrel.

Also, when reassembling the gun be careful to follow the instructions for positioning the slide stop lever as you insert it so that the slide stop spring gets positioned correctly in the groove on top of the lever. (Hold it at 4:00 until half way in, then 3:00 and shove it the rest of the way in.)

[Kal0348]

Thanks for your help. I'm pretty sure that everything's gonna be just fine with my Kahr. All it needs is a little time and some shooting.

I'm gonna try the chop stick thing to get the witness marks in position, and I'm glad that you reminded me about the insertion of the slide stop lever at 4 o'clock for the beginning of insertion, and then at 3 o'clock to push it home.

I really need to re-read the manual carefully a second time. Some manuals of other makers' pistols have 40 pages of warnings and disclaimers, and only 3 pages of really useful information. I guess I got kind of sick and tired of all that, and just figured that no owner's manual was going to be any different. So I just stopped reading the things until I got into some trouble with something on the gun not working.

Thanks again.

[OldLincoln]

I can push my slide stop pin with my trigger finger, so I put pressure on it while racking the slide and it hangs up in the alignments holes. Then pluck the pin out from the left side with the left hand, while relieving slide pressure with the right.

John has it right about reinserting the slide stop pin. Remember the tiny nub of the spring has to go over a notch in the pin housing. If it's right, the lever will have some tension to keep it down. Also, you can see it with a light between the slide and stop lever if okay.

[Fireman489]

Ok, so Im a booger eat'n moron ......I sprayed OIL in the striker clean out hole instead of spraying cleaner in there...... I didnt realize it till AFTER I got home from the range and shot 100 rounds through it. So whats the best course of action for me now ? Should I just re-spray w the break cleaner (or any gun cleaner)? If I do that can I assume I'm "back on track" ? Gun seemed to run pretty smooth for being new....had 2 FTF's but that's it......I was shooting reloads if that makes a difference also.

Thanks
Erich

[Fireman489]

ohh forgot to mention Im shooting the PM9.....

[U.S. Patriot]

I use Weapon Shiled. It's the best lubricant I have found to date. I broke my down and did a normal clean and lube that I do on all my pistols. I had 0 issues out of the box.

[JFootin]

Yeah, blast it real good with brake cleaner. If you have an air blaster, use it to blow it out after the cleaner.

[ptoemmes]

Ok, so Im a booger eat'n moron ......I sprayed OIL in the striker clean out hole instead of spraying cleaner in there...... I didnt realize it till AFTER I got home from the range and shot 100 rounds through it. So whats the best course of action for me now ? Should I just re-spray w the break cleaner (or any gun cleaner)? If I do that can I assume I'm "back on track" ? Gun seemed to run pretty smooth for being new....had 2 FTF's but that's it......I was shooting reloads if that makes a difference also.

Thanks
Erich

I did similar during the initial prep (did not eat any boogers though) of my P45. I had light strikes in the first 200 that were probably attributed to the resultant gunky striker channel.

Now, you can do as other suggested: non chlorinated brake cleaner blast followed by air blasts, shoot another 100 or so, and if no issues you are good to go.

Or...take a deep breath, read, re-read, then re-read again the posts on stripping out the striker for a major cleaning. That's what I did and it also worked. Plus you learn a bit more about your weapon.

Pete

[Blue150]

Several years ago I couldn't find my gun grease but I had an eight ounce tube of dielectric tune up grease out in the garage so I used that. I frankly love the stuff. The only problem is it is transparent in a thin film so it's difficult to tell if you've lubed enough.

I know it doesn't dry out because that's what they use in intermittent wiper controllers and I've opened them up after thirty years and the grease, where not contaminated with thirty years of copper powder and dust, looks like it just came out of the tube. It holds up to water in my fishing reels and stays where it's put. Great stuff.

[streakpi]

Just bought my first Kahr (I'm a S&W M&P / Glock / XD owner)...looking at all the threads to get prep ideas before I hit the range next week. Thank you for putting this thread out there...easy to find...and populated by good advice. I use CLP to clean my guns and Gun Butr to lube them. I'm not an armorer...but I see plenty of "use grease" messages on here...can I simply use my Gun Butr or is the Kahr "special"? Thank you in advance!

[jocko]

use what every works for u. kahrs are no different than other guns. properlyt lubed with any luvbe is gonna be better than not at all. Nothing wrong witht he two products umentiond either. They are good, enjoy ur kahr. and welcome aboard.

[Tinman507]

Use whatever works for you. I ran my CM9 wet during breakin with grease on the rails and inside the slide where the barrel hood seats. Just avoid the striker channel.

[doc540]

It appears that I can duplicate my SlideGlide/1911 routine on our new Kahrs.
http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html

Run'em wet, shoot'em hot

[david8613]

I'm not new to guns but in these parts i am, im reading all this kahr info. it is great for a new kahr owner like myself, its appreciated. my pm 9 was super tight even though it was used between 200 to 300 rounds, I have done the clean, lubed with just oil and racked the slide a whole bunch of times as suggested on this forum but she still feels tight, so today I broke it down again, cleaned her again but this time I used hoppes grease with oil, much better the slide is moving easier now, it seems to me kahrs like grease... i can't wait to take this puppy out for nice a walk...

[streakpi]

I'm not new to guns but in these parts i am, im reading all this kahr info. it is great for a new kahr owner like myself, its appreciated. my pm 9 was super tight even though it was used between 200 to 300 rounds, I have done the clean, lubed with just oil and racked the slide a whole bunch of times as suggested on this forum but she still feels tight, so today I broke it down again, cleaned her again but this time I used hoppes grease with oil, much better the slide is moving easier now, it seems to me kahrs like grease... i can't wait to take this puppy out for nice a walk...

Did you use the Hoppes #9 Gun Grease or something different by them...gotta get some oil this week.

[OldLincoln]

That's what I keep telling folks but the experts don't always agree. One thing to keep in mind is to ignore lube point 7. You should run the striker assembly dry.

[jocko]

mIL-COMM.COM FOR tw25 GREASE IN A SYRINGE.great stuff. Won'trun and with the syringe u can lay a line of TRW25 right dewoninsid eth slide rails without making anymess.

[pitandkahr]

That's what I keep telling folks but the experts don't always agree. One thing to keep in mind is to ignore lube point 7. You should run the striker assembly dry.

Actually, glad I saw this part...I was doing the drop of oil on point 7...I guess I missed that from the previous ton of posts...LOL :D

[david8613]

Did you use the Hoppes #9 Gun Grease or something different by them...gotta get some oil this week.

yep thats what I used, big difference compared to just oil alone, I use ballistol oil, which is pretty good it's thick, but my pm9 likes grease. it's so much smoother now and easier to rack, less resistance even though you can still feel there is a very powerful spring in there.

[pitandkahr]

Mine like Tetra Gun Grease. Actually all of my guns like that stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dustypuddle]

Johna I want to really thank you for the lubeing of the gun.I'm a new cm9 owner and have 300 plus rounds and this was the first guide to get me to do it right.
Thanks again

[Feeby]

What about using grease instead? I think is better as last longer and did not mess with the ammo.

[Flincher]

Great thread. I'll start using a good grease in lieu of lite Remoil on my little P380 BUG.

[t2ohio]

I forgot #7 was even there, it should not be for oil. I put TW25 grease in all placwes it says "coat" and oil those saying oli EXCEPT #7. I do very lightly coat the front side of the striker tab sticking up as the cam works that. But then I also lightly coat the cams.

Brand new to the forum, brand new to pistols, brand new to Kahr. I just ordered my CM9 the other night from Buds. So forgive my ignorance....

So you only use oil for 5 & 7? Grease for the rest?

[OldLincoln]

First of all, lube point 7 should not be on the chart. You should not oil or lube the striker channel as it can attract debris. That is pretty much true for most striker fired pistols.

Others will disagree about my use of grease over oil but I do. My reasoning is the Kahr is very tight new and generates a lot of friction as the metal parts rub together. I used oil which did what it could but the inside top of the slide was discolored blue from the heat generated by a slight burr on the barrel hood rubbing that spot. Grease stays put longer and adds protection.

Once all is running smooth and no issues, you can use either oil or grease. I use TW25 in the syringe which is easy to apply and continue to grease. I admit I use it in the rails also because the syringe fits nicely and can run a very light bead.

[t2ohio]

Thanks OldLincoln! You buy yours online?

Edit- I found it on Amazon

[Cristofori]

When oiling #7, it says to "put a very small drop of oil in the corner". Which corner? The right or the left? The left corner on the slide has a little hole where the oil will run down. Is this right?

Also, is this the actual recommended lube spots by Kahr? The OP says this was taken off from Glocktalk.

[adamog133]

Just have to say that this is one of the best sticky's going. keep up the Great Work Guys !! Diagram has worked flawlessly !!:o:o:cool::cool:

[Porustypo]

My guide rod flange has a couple of burs on it. Should this be cause for alarm?

[t2ohio]

My guide rod flange has a couple of burs on it. Should this be cause for alarm?

Is it like this?

http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=17417

see solution of sanding with 600 grit auto sandpaper.

[Porustypo]

Thanks a bunch. Good info.

[t2ohio]

No problem. Was that the location you were referring to? I don't even know what a guide rod flange is....? Newbie me, LOL

sent from from Galaxy S3 using tapatalk

[Dino]

As stated in another post I use the Hornady One Shot, it is a teflon based dry lube and cleaner, stuff works great. I am a pretty avid shooter. Two to three times a week for a half hour or so each time out, gun range very close to me, and i get some theropy shooting and cleaning my guns. I spray this stuff all over the striker channel, keeps it cleaned out and lubed. After it sits it drys and leaves the gun feeling slick, but not oily. and wet feeling. Oil attracts dirt and debris, I have had very good luck with this stuff. I ordered some frog lube, gonna try that stuff next.

[Hooper]

Ok, been staring at my new Kahr P9 slide for an hour. Everyone's talking about spraying cleaner down the "clean out hole". I don't know where that is!! Can someone post a pic?

Thanks!!!

[Evan]

Have you read the pre prep yet? Heres the link :

http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=14748

[DavidS]

Does Kahr also have a lubrication diagram or instructions? I have not been able to find one or any discussion of lube points in the manual (somewhat surprised by this). The reason for asking is that the lube diagram in this thread is not quite correct for the MK model. I think I understand the differences between the diagram and my MK but a correct diagram would be nice.

[GunnerJacky]

Thanks for sharing these valuable points. I prefer to do cleaning and oiling of my Kahr myself. These points really help me a lot.

[marshal kane]

Would suggest an 11th and 12th lube point. Along with lubricating the round part of the barrel, put a light coat of oil in the slide hole that supports the barrel. I do this to all of my semi-autos. I also put a light coat of oil on the two steel pads that the slide rides on at the top rear of the receiver. Another suggestion is to never "drown" any part of your pistol with oil, some oils left over long periods of time tend to dry out and/or thicken. Would like to add my thanks to the OP for bringing this subject up and adding the fine photo.

[Jimmy10mm]

I forgot #7 was even there, it should not be for oil. I put TW25 grease in all placwes it says "coat" and oil those saying oli EXCEPT #7. I do very lightly coat the front side of the striker tab sticking up as the cam works that. But then I also lightly coat the cams.

Maybe get a moderator or admin to edit the OP to that effect ? Just sayin ....... :rolleyes:

[johnkhelps]

Hello. First post. I can not see the picture showing the lube points. It appears I can not download the attachments. Only show X where pic/download should be, apparently. I saw the picture in the past but not sure where or how. Thank you and I look forward to adding to my knowledge bank regarding Kahrs and shootin' in general.

[TheLastDaze]

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a466/btowngeorge/KahrLubePoints.jpg

[johnkhelps]

Thank you TheLastDaze for the prompt reply.

I simply see a little box with a red X in it. Nothing more and cannot open or manipulate in any way. Is it, possibly, my antivirus? Or some method I am not seeing to open the picture?

Bear with me as I am a newbie to this site. Thank you for your patience, j

[TheLastDaze]

Thank you TheLastDaze for the prompt reply.

I simply see a little box with a red X in it. Nothing more and cannot open or manipulate in any way. Is it, possibly, my antivirus? Or some method I am not seeing to open the picture?

Bear with me as I am a newbie to this site. Thank you for your patience, j

go to your settings here on the site(top right), click, scroll down and on the left you'll see "my settings tab" scroll down to general settings click on that, in general settings scroll down until you see "thread display option" tab, make sure all three boxes to right are check marked, they will say 'show signatures, show avatars, show images....

[kenm]

Thanks for the lube diagram - a great help.
Also the tips from other posters - much appreciated!!

[b4uqzme]

Around post 10 of this thread a member mentions the captured guide rod. Something was dragging or just not feeling right after I cleaned and lubed my new CM45. It turned out to be the inside of the captured guide rod. I missed it because I only lubed the outer spring before I re-installed it. Just a reminder to lube the inside too. I simply locked the slide back and squirted a little RemOil in there and all is fine.

[manitou4]

I'm a new member. I've owned my CM9 for about two years now, and have run at least 500-600 rounds of range ammo through it almost flawlessly. Today, however, I attempted to load some defensive rounds, and I ran into what appears to be a well-known problem for Kahr pistols - the ammo was jamming up on the ramp and the slide wouldn't go forward. After some research and some time on the phone with Kahr, I learned that the only "approved" method of loading the first round is to lock the slide back and release it with the lever. This worked, but I've never loaded it that way before when using range ammo, and the standard "slingshot" method always worked. In the course of researching my failure-to-feed problem, I was a bit surprised to learn that apparently Kahr pistols have a questionable reputation in this regard. On top of that, when I read Jocko's suggestions of properly prepping a new Kahr, none of which I've ever done, all this info combined has me wondering whether or not the CM9 was the best choice I could have made for a concealed-carry weapon. Am I over-reacting?

[tom.p]

Am I over-reacting?

If your gun has been flawless in the two years you've owned it, other than the one event when you weren't following the manual's chambering instructions, then yes, I'd say you're over reacting. That being said, I'd recommend a couple range trips of "use as directed" with the slide lock to make sure there's not another issue going on. I agree that being able to slingshot the slide is preferable, but that's not the way these guns were designed, so I always lock the slide back. Small compromise for what I believe is an excellent gun IMO. I find that most things work better when you follow the manufacturer's instructions and keep them (mostly) stock.

[b4uqzme]

?... Am I over-reacting?

Yep. :)

You will find that some ammo will work great no matter what you do or don't do...others might not work at all. Find what works best in your pistol and you will be fine.

[SIGWolf]

This was very helpful!

[Vetack]

Awesome instructions!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Baklash]

Looks like the Kahr lube diagram has disappeared again. I needed a new copy but can't find it.

[gb6491]

http://i66.tinypic.com/24njkuu.jpg

[ripley16]

Just because... I thought I'd comment on #5, the rail groove. based on the chart directions I've always done this upside down, as I stand the slide muzzle down, not up, and let a drop ooze down. This way the slide stands by it's self. Seems easier to me. No big deal... just thought I'd comment. Guess I'm just lazy. :yo:

[Bills1873]

Alfonse, of Lakeline, llc, has mag metal followers that members have said aid in performing the "slingshot" slide operation. Might check that out if you need to chamber a round using that method.

[Baklash]

Just because... I thought I'd comment on #5, the rail groove. based on the chart directions I've always done this upside down, as I stand the slide muzzle down, not up, and let a drop ooze down. This way the slide stands by it's self. Seems easier to me. No big deal... just thought I'd comment. Guess I'm just lazy. :yo:
Me too. I always thought the instruction odd.

[Bondsman]

GREAT INFO
Thanks
Jim

[Monadnock]

Awesome diagram..bot my gun used so it didn't come with all the creature comforts, instructions..manuals. I've been using Ballistol for a while..I use it on everything for lube and cleaning..aftershave. I wipe it on, let it set, clean and wipe it off. depending on the gun, sometimes, I'd use something a little heavier on the slide rails. Anyone have any opinions.. is Ballistol viscous enough for K40 maintenance?

[Bawanna]

I switched to Ballistol myself a couple years back. I love the stuff. Never thought about aftershave, that's a great idea.

I do use light grease on the rails and a spot of the same grease the hood and muzzle end of the barrel at the wear points.

Oil is probably plenty adequate but I'm an over oiler sometimes.

[Worn]

Kahr Newbie here. Came into possession of a used PM9 and during my "familiarization" break-down and cleaning, was surprised to find it all oily in the striker channel. This thread has confirmed what I suspected - that it should be clean and dry in there. I'll be going back to rid it of lube once I finish this post.

I've noted all the variations on how to apply lube in this thread and would like to add another that I sometimes use (weapon dependent): In hard to get-at places that require only a light lube to simply protect the surfaces, I apply the oil generously then blow it out with my air compressor. That removes all but a very fine film that will prevent corrosion.

[SgtStone]

...

I've noted all the variations on how to apply lube in this thread and would like to add another that I sometimes use (weapon dependent): In hard to get-at places that require only a light lube to simply protect the surfaces, I apply the oil generously then blow it out with my air compressor.

Interesting technique. I get a similar effect using cans of compressed air intended for computers. The plastic guide tube fits perfectly in the striker opening.

[ct9kahrtoter]

Kahr Newbie here. Came into possession of a used PM9 and during my "familiarization" break-down and cleaning, was surprised to find it all oily in the striker channel. This thread has confirmed what I suspected - that it should be clean and dry in there. I'll be going back to rid it of lube once I finish this post.

I've noted all the variations on how to apply lube in this thread and would like to add another that I sometimes use (weapon dependent): In hard to get-at places that require only a light lube to simply protect the surfaces, I apply the oil generously then blow it out with my air compressor. That removes all but a very fine film that will prevent corrosion.
Hello and welcome! You lube your guns about the same way I do. ;)

[LinemanBob]

Does that mean that the trigger and all moving parts inside the frame require no lube? Does not seem right to me. I lube all moving parts.

[berettabone]

If it rolls, oil it. If it slides, grease it. Neither, leave it alone.:p

[LinemanBob]

If it rolls, oil it. If it slides, grease it. Neither, leave it alone.:p

That is what I learned.

[bigpoet]

Very helpful.

[skiflydive]

If it rolls, oil it. If it slides, grease it. Neither, leave it alone.:p Wheel bearings the world over disagree...