Purchased a P9 frame to customize

[Copper&Black]

I just bought a P9 frame on of gunbroker with the intentions of trimming her down into a P9 covert. I’m pretty sure I got it for a good price ($160 shipped). I was thinking about having a little fun with this, and after I cut it down to match my PM9’s grip, I was thinking about duracoating it gunmetal grey along with a CT laser. Now I am in the market for a nice used or new black P9, and I will have interchangeable frames, Custom covert or standard P9.
Any ideas or comments would be appreciated. Yes I know there are some that who say leave it the way it is, and all I have to say to that is… NO :p

*Pictures from gunbroker, won it yesterday...

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/pix220365078.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/pix220366984.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/pix220367109.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/pix220367312.jpg

Found this online, IMO kinda ugly but it is what gave me the idea to Duracoat it gunmetal grey along with the CT to match. With a Black slide I think it will look pretty sweet.
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/sl2.jpg

[jeep45238]

Keep us updated on that, looks like a fun project.

[Bawanna]

I'd like to find a sampling of steel frames to make grips on. A K9, a MK9 would be a good start. Hard on my own and peoples I have to borrow to make em on. I try diligently not to scratch or nick but stuff happens. Plus all the sawdust etc.
Be nice to find one that's been like thru a fire or damaged somehow but with a good frame. Good template.....................

[getsome]

Hi Copper&Black, How do you plan on doing the cut...I want to covert my CW40 but I'm going to have Bowie Tactical do mine...they will do it for $70.00 plus shipping but he needs the whole gun and a shorter magazine to make sure everything goes together right...They said they do it all the time to Smith M&P's and Glocks...It would be cool to have a standard frame and magazine for range shooting and a covert frame for CCW...

[Bawanna]

Hi Copper&Black, How do you plan on doing the cut...I want to covert my CW40 but I'm going to have Bowie Tactical do mine...they will do it for $70.00 plus shipping but he needs the whole gun and a shorter magazine to make sure everything goes together right...They said they do it all the time to Smith M&P's and Glocks...It would be cool to have a standard frame and magazine for range shooting and a covert frame for CCW...

That should be doable. They normally just afix the part of the frame they cut off to the full size mag. The downfall sometimes is it leaves a gap or a seam in the middle of your grip which sometimes can pinch or otherwise be uncomfortable. It they just slide the piece on the magazine you can switch if you ever need to replace the mag, other wise you my have issues.
Kind of a cool option as you say to have both. On the downside just like tools sometimes you make 1 tool do 27 different things, it does them all ok but none of the as well as a dedicated tool if you follow the flow of my personal river.

[getsome]

Yea never have found a multi purpose anything that did everything well...The reason I was wanting the grip chop is so I can pocket carry...The barrel length isn't an issue but the stock grip is too big....Should have bought a PM9 but I didnt know anything about Kahr pistols and what they made but I found the CW40 for a good price and couldnt believe how light it was....At that time I was CCW a Smith 640 .357 mag and it was too heavy....I hope after I get the chop done I will be able to hang on to the little beast.....

[Bawanna]

Yea never have found a multi purpose anything that did everything well...The reason I was wanting the grip chop is so I can pocket carry...The barrel length isn't an issue but the stock grip is too big....Should have bought a PM9 but I didnt know anything about Kahr pistols and what they made but I found the CW40 for a good price and couldnt believe how light it was....At that time I was CCW a Smith 640 .357 mag and it was too heavy....I hope after I get the chop done I will be able to hang on to the little beast.....

You might try to find a PM 40 you could shoot just for trial. I think the 40 will indeed be a little beast after the chop. Course it's not something you'll play with at the range alot but still gotta be maneagable. Why dont ya just get a PM9 for a stable mate so your CW isn't lonely? I know, I know it's the money isn't it, everything in the world has to involve money. Hmmm, I don't have an answer to my own question. I think I need councilling. Maybe electro shock therapy to get me away from my addiction to this site which I enjoy immensely, enough that I'm here when I should be working. WORK!:lie:

[Copper&Black]

I have an industrial turbine machine shop, so I have my choice of mills. I will be using my PM9 for reference and using a fixture and a power feed table. With this I can perfectly position the end mill in line with the base of the PM9 frame, and then replace the PM9 in the fixture with the P9, and machine off the excess.
Like I said I’m having fun with this one, I have a PM9 and a P380 for daily carry (pic below). I just want to see what I can create. But if she proves to be as reliable as my others, I’ll gladly put it in the rotation. Good thing is my crossbreed minituck for my PM9 will work perfectly. I have always been about personalizing and tinkering with things. My name Copper and Black refers to my other passion (pic below). I can’t help but to tinker, but I’m not going to cut a brand new frame, so I bought this to serve as my customizing release…
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P2120625.jpg

Copper&Black
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/11221.jpg

[Bawanna]

I see copper colored Kahr slides maybe Roguard in your future.

[getsome]

Real nice rides there C&B...Is your bike a Victory? Whatever it is it looks way cool....I don't think I have ever seen that color combo before but it works great....:cool:

[Copper&Black]

Thanks, It's a 105th Anni '08 Harley V-Rod 1250cc, 240mm rear tire, numbered 1-1200, this is 851.

[jocko]

I have an industrial turbine machine shop, so I have my choice of mills. I will be using my PM9 for reference and using a fixture and a power feed table. With this I can perfectly position the end mill in line with the base of the PM9 frame, and then replace the PM9 in the fixture with the P9, and machine off the excess.
Like I said I’m having fun with this one, I have a PM9 and a P380 for daily carry (pic below). I just want to see what I can create. But if she proves to be as reliable as my others, I’ll gladly put it in the rotation. Good thing is my crossbreed minituck for my PM9 will work perfectly. I have always been about personalizing and tinkering with things. My name Copper and Black refers to my other passion (pic below). I can’t help but to tinker, but I’m not going to cut a brand new frame, so I bought this to serve as my customizing release…
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P2120625.jpg

Copper&Black
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/11221.jpg

v-rod, I had a 105th street glid (#243). Great bike also. Now own a 2010 CVO streetglide, even better bike.

oh and the guns are nice to:33:

[jocko]

Real nice rides there C&B...Is your bike a Victory? Whatever it is it looks way cool....I don't think I have ever seen that color combo before but it works great....:cool:

on you, calling a HARLEY a fu--ing Victory:(

[Bawanna]

on you, calling a HARLEY a fu--ing Victory:(

Glad you said that, I wanted to but I'm kind of shy and introverted. That's like a sin isn't it. Go ahead and use the profanity, I can take it in this case.:typing:

[rjmcw9]

Can't hide money!!!!!!:D:D:D

[Bawanna]

Can't hide money!!!!!!:D:D:D

Must be able too. I bring home money all the time and my wife tells me we don't have any. What do ya suppose is up with that?
Sometimes if I'm a really good boy, she'll give me like 100 or 150 for a gunshow. I ask ya, what can a guy do with 150 bucks at a gun show but go nuts over stuff he can't have?????? I got six each of all the little stuff.
Still a dang pretty motorcycle, I don't care who you are, that's pretty.:cool:

[Copper&Black]

v-rod, I had a 105th street glid (#243). Great bike also. Now own a 2010 CVO streetglide, even better bike.

oh and the guns are nice to:33:

Sweet, My dad had an all black Street Glide I loved it, and my girl loved riding on the back of it. He sold it and went crazy buying, two Bourget Choppers, and 2 Big Bear Choppers. Both are an absolute blast to ride.

Both Big Bears
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/270.jpg

Back on topic...
Are there any differences between the CW9 Frame and the P9 Frame? or are all differences in the slide assy?

[swampman]

Sweet, My dad had an all black Street Glide I loved it, and my girl loved riding on the back of it. He sold it and went crazy buying, two Bourget Choppers, and 2 Big Bear Choppers. Both are an absolute blast to ride.

Both Big Bears
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/270.jpg

Back on topic...
Are there any differences between the CW9 Frame and the P9 Frame? or are all differences in the slide assy?
yes there are dimensional differents,Look at the comparision chart on the kahr web site. :D

[Copper&Black]

Thanks for the reply but all I see is a difference of a tenth of an inch, and that difference is most likely the portion of the side that extends past the frame....

KAHR KP9093 / Specifications (http://kahr.com/dtlspec_kp9093.html)

I think I will be going to the P9 anyways, the slide seems to have a better fit and finish, and I want night sights which the CW doesn't offer.

[jbaker]

You might try to find a PM 40 you could shoot just for trial. I think the 40 will indeed be a little beast after the chop. Course it's not something you'll play with at the range alot but still gotta be maneagable. Why dont ya just get a PM9 for a stable mate so your CW isn't lonely? I know, I know it's the money isn't it, everything in the world has to involve money. Hmmm, I don't have an answer to my own question. I think I need councilling. Maybe electro shock therapy to get me away from my addiction to this site which I enjoy immensely, enough that I'm here when I should be working. WORK!:lie:
I ABSOUTELY HATE MONEY,probable bc i have none lol.

[a.squibload]

Copper&Black: nice driveway. Oh, and the bikes are cool too.

Bawanna45cal: trial-shoot a PM40 without earplugs, about the same effect
but cheaper than electroshock therapy.

jbaker: I am a Money Aversion Therapist, next time you run into some, send me
half. It will help you take the pressure off, and you will still have a little cash to buy
lead, powder, etc. (essentials).

[Copper&Black]

I just picked up the P9 frame at my FFL Dealer today. So far there seems to be a couple good points and bad points. I think it might be from a factory blem. I notice there is a small amount of polymer missing just below the embedded rails at the front left. I don't think this will hurt the guns function at all and will be completely hidden from view when assembled. The only other thing it needs is a new slide stop spring, along with a solid cleaning and lubing after all work is done it should be a great performer.


P9, PM9, P380
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P3190674.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P3190675.jpg

Here is the portion lacking polymer... Hey for around 150 what can you do...

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P3190676.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P3190680.jpg

[a.squibload]

What the ??? You made me open mine to look. Casting defect?
(Are polymer frames cast? More like injection-molded?)
If you hadn't shown us nobody but you would know! Only issue I can think of
would be strength, and it looks like the rail has an angle going down from there.
Without further research my instinct would be to fill it in with JB Weld,
let it settle in real smooth, and leave it somewhere slightly more than warm.
Don't wanna melt the rest of the frame, but heat helps cure epoxy.
And the color would be just about right.
For $150, shoot it like you stole it!

Disclaimer: My technical knowledge is at a sufficient level to ensure that I point the
pistol in the right direction most of the time.
Disclaimer: most of my JB Weld experience is due to Jeep ownership.

[Copper&Black]

I was able to find a stainless slide assy on gunbroker for a decent price so it appears my plans have changed a bit. Total price was far less than a used P9. I've assemble it and everything seems to be functioning beautifully and chambers a round perfectly. Here is a picture of it assembled after removing the standard sights and the very beginning of a polish job. After a few hours of work I have the slide to nearly a mirror finish and will update the finished pictures tomorrow. Now I need to order some night sights, or I might just send it into Kahr to get them installed.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012088.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012089.jpg

[paintwerk]

Lookin sweet!

[Copper&Black]

Almost there, need to hit it a little tomorrow for it to be perfect. I'll take some good pics.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5070728.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5070729.jpg

[paintwerk]

If you havent done so already. I recommend detail stripping the slide for a good cleaning. While you have it apart, there are quite a few small parts that could benefit from a good polish as well.

Glock Talk - View Single Post - Detail Stripping the Kahr's Upper (http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13604349&postcount=52)

YouTube - Kahr Action Job (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1cDRE0mYdY)

Are you still going to chop the frame?

[jocko]

I did no tknow that kahr sold only the lower frames for their guns. Look for a stamped U on the front of the trigger guard, if one is there, it is a refurbished fame, if not, then it should be factory. I don't think that missing polymer will hurt one thing but also that would have never passed kahr inspection either. Does this frame come with any warranty from the dealer???

Those front slide rails are all one peace inbedded in the polymer, so I would think you should be fine...

[Copper&Black]

I very much plan on doing a detailed strip as soon as I'm done polishing today. Everything will be cleaned and inspected well before any rounds start flying. About the chop, I am still debating. With my previous plan I would have had it as an interchangeable frame, one covert, one full size had I bought a complete gun. However now that it is a one complete P9 with no other frame, I might keep it full size. What internal parts other then the barrel, feed ramps etc, do you think should get a polishing?

Jocko there is no U stamp on the trigger guard, and it was purchased from a gun dealer on Gunbroker. I agree with you that I don't think the missing polymer will hurt anything. I would imagine that it was a whole gun at one point and got split up. No warranty, As Is, but for 150 I think I did alright.

[Copper&Black]

Here is what came with the slide assy. So I have some decent spare parts...

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/pix712442343.jpg

[jocko]

that is a fair price for sure. I assume your talking about the detail strip and cleaning of the slide and not the lower portion, which I highly advise to spray clean and leave alone. You can reach everything by this method and risk no chance of screwing something up. removing the trigger pin can at times be one P. I A. and there is just no need to try to take out the cocking cam parts. spray, and oil and u are good to go.

Your gonna come out with one hell of a gun whether u covert it or not. U can always go to covert, so shoot it awhile at a P9 and see what yoiu think. The covert is nice "to talk" about but IMO not a real carry package over ur P9 anyways. and once coverted, it's gone as a P9...

If u ever decide to do it and don't want to tackle the chop job, get ahold of me, I have the ideal person who has done many and is super..

[Bawanna]

Here is what came with the slide assy. So I have some decent spare parts...

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/pix712442343.jpg

Wow, that's way cool. I think you are the king of finding good deals. I nominate you for vice president in charge of acquisitions.
I'm kind of with you wanting to leave it the way it is now that you only got the one frame. You found one, maybe you could find another? I didn't think it was possible. A slide, a frame and sack full of spare parts, what's not to love about that?

[Copper&Black]

Thanks 45
My next project might be sooner then expected, found this P40 frame w/ ns for cheap, $98 shipped. So now I guess I will be keeping my eyes peeled for a P40 frame.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/pix1349103859.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/pix1349103687.jpg

Here is what the P9 slide looks like now. I still have some work to be done, that final little bit to get that mirror shine is a PITA!

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5070730.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5070734.jpg

[Bawanna]

I'm attempting to do the same slide polish on my K40 with apparently much slower success than you. Did you find that some areas of the slide polished up nicer and faster than other? I just using a dremel with the cotton wheels and polishing compound. On mine the area between the rear sight and the chamber polished easy, from the chamber forward not near as nice. Sides aren't shining up to easy either. Have to get more aggressive I guess. I'm still pondering on jeweling the whole slide too, just sounds kind of slick to me but I better jewel some other stuff to practice before I go sacrificing my K40 slide.

[jocko]

no serial numbers ever on kahr slides, only on the lower frame.. Nice find..

[Copper&Black]

that is a fair price for sure. I assume your talking about the detail strip and cleaning of the slide and not the lower portion, which I highly advise to spray clean and leave alone. You can reach everything by this method and risk no chance of screwing something up. removing the trigger pin can at times be one P. I A. and there is just no need to try to take out the cocking cam parts. spray, and oil and u are good to go.

Your gonna come out with one hell of a gun whether u covert it or not. U can always go to covert, so shoot it awhile at a P9 and see what yoiu think. The covert is nice "to talk" about but IMO not a real carry package over ur P9 anyways. and once coverted, it's gone as a P9...

If u ever decide to do it and don't want to tackle the chop job, get ahold of me, I have the ideal person who has done many and is super..

Exactly what I had in mind, everything in the frame for the most part can be visually inspected with the frame assembled. I have already cleaned and oiled the frame and everything seems good. Thanks for the tip on the chop, I'll let you know if I go that route.

[Copper&Black]

I'm attempting to do the same slide polish on my K40 with apparently much slower success than you. Did you find that some areas of the slide polished up nicer and faster than other? I just using a dremel with the cotton wheels and polishing compound. On mine the area between the rear sight and the chamber polished easy, from the chamber forward not near as nice. Sides aren't shining up to easy either. Have to get more aggressive I guess. I'm still pondering on jeweling the whole slide too, just sounds kind of slick to me but I better jewel some other stuff to practice before I go sacrificing my K40 slide.

Sand Paper! 1000 then 1500 on a flat surface and rubbing the slide back and forth forever, fliping it to get all sides. Then with a cotton wheel mounted to a tabletop grinder and polishing compound. Of course with sights still installed the top will be difficult.

[Bawanna]

Sand Paper! 1000 then 1500 on a flat surface and rubbing the slide back and forth forever, fliping it to get all sides. Then with a cotton wheel mounted to a tabletop grinder and polishing compound. Of course with sights still installed the top will be difficult.

Mein Got! You are aggressive! I guess being stainless if you scratch or get rough you just keep going till it's pretty. I guess I'm gonna have to man up and get rougher. Mines looking ok just going slow. I was hoping not to knock the sights off but I've knocked off a few in the past so I'll do it if I have to. Got a bench grinder, guess I could be me a cotton wheel for that too.

[Copper&Black]

Mein Got! You are aggressive! I guess being stainless if you scratch or get rough you just keep going till it's pretty. I guess I'm gonna have to man up and get rougher. Mines looking ok just going slow. I was hoping not to knock the sights off but I've knocked off a few in the past so I'll do it if I have to. Got a bench grinder, guess I could be me a cotton wheel for that too.

You have to be this stainless is hard! Infact now that I have done it I would start with 800 then move to 1000, 1500 and then 2000. After 2000 you would only need to hit it lightly with the cotton wheel with polishing compound and you should be looking at yourself. The flat surface is key, levels everything off so it polishes up nice.

[jlottmc]

I may do that to my P45, just gonna take some time. Of course that is one of the things that I really lack right now.

[Copper&Black]

Done with the polish! There are some very small pores in certain areas that can't be polished away without really digging into it, and I don't want to go that far. You can't notice them unless you are focusing in on the object in the reflection. Also finished up the barrel, feed ramp, barrel hood etc.
Here is how she looks!

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5090746.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5090745.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5090744.jpg

[Bawanna]

That is really looking fine! I had some reservations about trying it on mine but you've removed any doubt I had about doing it. I seriously doubt I'm gonna come close the quality of polishing that you've accomplished but it gives me something to aim for. Hope I don't get labeled a copy cat. I suspect there's alot of that around these parts anyhow and I'm thinking that's OK. Kind of what we do around here.
Very nice job! You've set the bar way high.

[jocko]

indeed a nice job, as good as any I have seen..

[jlottmc]

Wow, that's pretty. I was thinking my P45 would look good like that, but I'm not taking sand paper or any other rough stuff to it. Though I grew up in a machine shop, I'd find a way to screw it up. Well done.

[Copper&Black]

Thanks Guys


Wow, that's pretty. I was thinking my P45 would look good like that, but I'm not taking sand paper or any other rough stuff to it. Though I grew up in a machine shop, I'd find a way to screw it up. Well done.

Thanks, I understand being apprehensive about taking sand paper to your slide. But 800 grit is the roughest I would use and it will leave it brighter then the rough texture your slide already has. Step it up slowly from 800 1000 1500 2000 then you almost won't even need to use the wheel with compound. You are essentially doing the same thing when polishing with just a wheel; you are removing material until you get down far enough removing any irregularity in the surface. Only with sand paper you can have more control of the specific areas and can sand it all down to one plain, not to mention worlds faster. With just a wheel it would be like trying to get a mirror finish in a car's paint job with a palm sander. Sure it might shine, but it will be wavy. For a mirror finish you need long blocks of not so coarse sand paper to get everything on the same level. The slide may look flat but when it comes to a reflection it is not.

[jlottmc]

I know how to do it, I just don't have the time and materials anymore to do it. And by hand I tend to get rather impatient and end up leaving swirl marks and scratches. I am the worlds worst in that respect. Now if I was back in my shop, and some one had brought one in to do, well for some reason I was always more particular with their stuff than I ever was with mine. Besides, where I work now, a mirror through this thin uniform shirt would be beyond bad things and trouble. I'll leave it alone, when I change jobs maybe then I'll do something about it. That's still a couple of years away though.

[Bawanna]

I know how to do it, I just don't have the time and materials anymore to do it. And by hand I tend to get rather impatient and end up leaving swirl marks and scratches. I am the worlds worst in that respect. Now if I was back in my shop, and some one had brought one in to do, well for some reason I was always more particular with their stuff than I ever was with mine. Besides, where I work now, a mirror through this thin uniform shirt would be beyond bad things and trouble. I'll leave it alone, when I change jobs maybe then I'll do something about it. That's still a couple of years away though.

I can relate to that, I've never screwed up anyone elses gun that I've done stuff too but sometimes my own are questionable. For some reason I'm usually not afraid, always cautious but not as afraid to do stuff for others that I'm hesitant to do to my own. I'm trying this though. That's just gorgeous to me. I already started a week ago and looks decent but not no where near nice as this. Kind of chilled my jeweling idea too, this just looks sharp. We'll see how it goes.

[Copper&Black]

Some sun pictures...There are still a couple areas I might give a little more love.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5090747.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5090748.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5090749.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5090750.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5090751.jpg

[jlottmc]

You know the trigger needs love too. I'm just sayin...

[Bawanna]

We can rename that a survival gun now. You can signal aircraft if your ever lost, no longer have to carry a mirror. Dang that thing is looking just prime. You've set a way way high standard my friend. I sure don't see any spots that need more love myself but as every stroke of the polishing was done with our hand you will know more than anyone.

[Copper&Black]

Thanks! The trigger and the slide stop are getting polished. Luckly the slide assy came with a spare trigger so I'm already set. Also I will be putting a polished stainless guide rod in.

[Bawanna]

Thanks Guys



Thanks, I understand being apprehensive about taking sand paper to your slide. But 800 grit is the roughest I would use and it will leave it brighter then the rough texture your slide already has. Step it up slowly from 800 1000 1500 2000 then you almost won't even need to use the wheel with compound. You are essentially doing the same thing when polishing with just a wheel; you are removing material until you get down far enough removing any irregularity in the surface. Only with sand paper you can have more control of the specific areas and can sand it all down to one plain, not to mention worlds faster. With just a wheel it would be like trying to get a mirror finish in a car's paint job with a palm sander. Sure it might shine, but it will be wavy. For a mirror finish you need long blocks of not so coarse sand paper to get everything on the same level. The slide may look flat but when it comes to a reflection it is not.

Ok, I'm already stuck. Where do I go to get paper that fine. Brownells has 1200 and then it drops to 600. I already got the stainless guide rod a couple weeks ago so we're good to go there.

[jocko]

bawanna, if you go to any of those auto paint shops that sell to dealers they have that 3M paper in any gradeyou want. U can also go to walmart or to auto zone or O'Rileys and find that type of auto sand papers... No need to order that stuff, it is all around..

[Copper&Black]

Yup what Jocko said, the paper at the auto paint suppliers will most likely be better quality then the brands at a major auto parts store but won't make that big of a difference.

[Bawanna]

I came up with a better idea, why don't I just send my slide and stuff to Copper&Blacks house? He's already got it all figured out and that way I don't have to reinvent the wheel.
I thought about body shop supplies but didn't think even they went that fine, I figured they would laugh at me when I asked for some 1500 grit. I've spent most of my life looking dumb but I still hate it ya know.
I shall go in search of fine paper soon.

[jlottmc]

I had other second thoughts about doing that to my P45 now as well. They go something like this: Bright top+sights, sights get lost in light very easily with out something to break the reflection (serrated top), I sure don't have the capability to mill those into the top of my slide so I don't loose the sights. (Noticed when I was looking at my GP100, and it has them, and is shiny too.) I really like how it looks on yours, but I like the way mine shoots too. Let us know if you have any problems with that.

[Copper&Black]

I thought of this also, and if once it's complete and I'm not comfortable with the glare I'll simply mask off the area in between the sights and give it a quick glass bead blast, no milling needed, and it will give me a cool clear glass/etched glass look.

[jlottmc]

Now that would look cool. I wish I still had my shop, and the bead blasting cabinet. That was where my old man started me, then I moved to the boring block, and then to valve grinding. Gotta say though I DO NOT miss the boring block. We did a lot of automotive stuff and some prototyping as well. The prototyping was fun, but the boring block... that's what hell looks like, endless days on the boring block.

[Frankhenrylee]

One thing I've thought about is making the PM mag so that it does not show at all. This would give you a little more grip than the PM grip and a true flush mount. You would need some of those half moon cutouts in the sides though and probably have to smooth out a bit of a magwell to make it fit. Another benefit to duracoating the frame is you could go with a color that blends with your normal attire, camouflaging the gun so that it doesn't scream gun if someone sees it by accident. I've have heard that duracoat will chip though. Considering your taste in colors why not copper and black?

[Copper&Black]

As a matter a fact I've already pulled the trigger on what color duracoat the frame will get (pic below). And I also shortened up the 7 rd mag I had so that it now sits flush with the base. Took about 3mm out of the bottom and bent new tabs accordingly. She still holds a full 7 just looks a lot nicer.

Pics...
Duracoat color
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/DIAMOND_PLATE_GRAY_C.jpg

Mag
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012090-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012092-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012093-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012094.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012097-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012098-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012100-1.jpg

[Copper&Black]

Full 7

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012101.jpg

[Frankhenrylee]

Nice work. I always thought it would be cool to work at a machine shop cause you would have access to all sorts of cool machinery that you could do engine work or custom body work or whatever else. When I was younger I worked at the largest sheet metal shop around here and it had a lot of CNC stuff but not much of anything besides sheet metal working equipment. Pay wasn't that great either so I moved on. I guess you could probably make your own silencer, I mean flash suppressor. Or do just about anything else. Are you hiring inexperienced people that mainly want to work on there own projects right now? I usually can make it to work by 10 or so and leave about 3. Unless its hunting season, I'm good for a few hours a week in November.

[Bawanna]

Nice work. I always thought it would be cool to work at a machine shop cause you would have access to all sorts of cool machinery that you could do engine work or custom body work or whatever else. When I was younger I worked at the largest sheet metal shop around here and it had a lot of CNC stuff but not much of anything besides sheet metal working equipment. Pay wasn't that great either so I moved on. I guess you could probably make your own silencer, I mean flash suppressor. Or do just about anything else. Are you hiring inexperienced people that mainly want to work on there own projects right now? I usually can make it to work by 10 or so and leave about 3. Unless its hunting season, I'm good for a few hours a week in November.

Sign me up on this same program also if possible. As long as the benefits are above average. I assume vacations are industry standard and of course allowed to wear my Kahr to work. Lastly a window office would be nice.
Thank you.:w00t:

[Copper&Black]

Nice work. I always thought it would be cool to work at a machine shop cause you would have access to all sorts of cool machinery that you could do engine work or custom body work or whatever else. When I was younger I worked at the largest sheet metal shop around here and it had a lot of CNC stuff but not much of anything besides sheet metal working equipment. Pay wasn't that great either so I moved on. I guess you could probably make your own silencer, I mean flash suppressor. Or do just about anything else. Are you hiring inexperienced people that mainly want to work on there own projects right now? I usually can make it to work by 10 or so and leave about 3. Unless its hunting season, I'm good for a few hours a week in November.

Engine work? like this?

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012096.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012100.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1011850.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1011876.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1011857.jpg

Sorry couldn't resist....And No, I'm sorry we have no positions available at this time.
:D

[Bawanna]

Well maybe we could get put on a list or something. I'm hell in a solvent tank. Might want to put me in a less complex area, not so technical, not so many pieces and stuff.

[jlottmc]

Those pictures sure do bring back memories... Sometimes I kinda even miss it.

[Frankhenrylee]

Whatcha got going there CB?

[MattTheKnife]

I had a buddy chop the grip of my CW9 and it works great. I still have the portion that was cut off for times where I want the full-sized grip. To counteract the gap, I have a piece of para-cord that I slip onto the magazine before I add the original piece. It doesn't look good, but it works great.

If I ever learn how to attach a picture (meaning, I just need to try), I will do so as I'm sure my explanation made no sense.

[Copper&Black]

Whatcha got going there CB?

My Yukon has 160k on the 5.3L V8. That is the 6.0L I am building to replace it. Painted to match, Magna Charged, Forged Pistons/Rods, Cam Etc... Should be 600+ HP when it's complete.

[Frankhenrylee]

Very nice. I've got an old 98' Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 that may need an engine soon. I've been eyeballing the 383 crate engine Chevy's come out with, but I could just about buy a whole truck for what it would cost me to get one of those. Looking forward to seeing some dyno charts when its all said and done. From what I here the 6.0 is a beast already so this one should be hard to keep tires on. Oh yeah, looking forward to seeing the gun as well.

[speedweapon]

What did you do to polish the slide? Jewelers rouge

[Copper&Black]

Very nice. I've got an old 98' Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 that may need an engine soon. I've been eyeballing the 383 crate engine Chevy's come out with, but I could just about buy a whole truck for what it would cost me to get one of those. Looking forward to seeing some dyno charts when its all said and done. From what I here the 6.0 is a beast already so this one should be hard to keep tires on. Oh yeah, looking forward to seeing the gun as well.

Yeah the 6L is a beast already, add 10psi on top of that and I should be able to take vettes off the line.


What did you do to polish the slide? Jewelers rouge
Jewelers rouge wouldn't be the best, it is designed for softer precious metals like gold and platinum. You would be better off using a rouge made for stainless, chrome etc. Also a harder polishing wheel would be good to have on the other side of the bench grinder.

[Copper&Black]

Finished up the final polish on the P9 and she looks great. I did a little mini photo shoot so I grabed my girl's furry blanket, I did my best to find some pimp zebra print but I'm afraid I don't have any...haha
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140754.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140755.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140760.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140761.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140762.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140763.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140767.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140772.jpg

[Copper&Black]

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140775.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140776.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5140779.jpg

[Bawanna]

That is a proverbial thing of beauty my friend. Never give the magazines a thought but it turned out might pretty as well.
I'm getting mine dirty this weekend and hopefully putting 2 or 3 hundred perfect break in rounds thru my PM45, then that K40 is going on the bench and hopefully will end up somewhere between where it is now and what you got there. I found some of the fine paper you mentioned, haven't got down to pick it up yet but it will happen.
Might even have to buy a bench polish wheel but what price looking cool?:yo:

[Copper&Black]

Sunlight pics...

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5150780.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5150781.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5150782.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5150783.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5150784.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5150785.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P5150787.jpg

[Roadblock]

You should get one of those stainless guide rods from Steve Bedair Steve Bedair Stainless Guide Rods for Handguns (http://www.guiderod.com) and polish that up too!

Really nice looking piece though!

[Bawanna]

You should get one of those stainless guide rods from Steve Bedair Steve Bedair Stainless Guide Rods for Handguns (http://www.guiderod.com) and polish that up too!

Really nice looking piece though!

Yup, they are already pretty polished but I'm sure you could make it even shinier. Would fit right in there well.

[Copper&Black]

I plan on adding a stainless guiderod, I was going to go with the Kahr version when i send it in for sights. Is this Steve Bedair any better? Also is there a better recoil spring I could pick up?

[Bawanna]

I plan on adding a stainless guiderod, I was going to go with the Kahr version when i send it in for sights. Is this Steve Bedair any better? Also is there a better recoil spring I could pick up?

I don't know that its any better but it is cheaper cost wise than the Kahr. 25 bucks shipped for the smooth, which is probably your choice, can't polish the meat tenderizer as well. Shiney is good. He might even make the Kahr ones for all we know. If your sending it in for sights getting it from kahr would be now loss.
I don't recall the answer on the spring, where's Jocko when we need him.

[Copper&Black]

I ran 200 rounds through the P9 this afternoon, Flawless!!!! Better then new as far as I'm concerned. Everything was so fluid, it chambered a round so smooth, I questioned if had actually chambered a round at all. I'm happier than a pig in ****, and now she's up for some night sights. I also keeping the frame black instead of duracoating just b/c I'm so happy with the way it is now I don't want to change it.

[jocko]

I ran 200 rounds through the P9 this afternoon, Flawless!!!! Better then new as far as I'm concerned. Everything was so fluid, it chambered a round so smooth, I questioned if had actually chambered a round at all. I'm happier than a pig in ****, and now she's up for some night sights. I also keeping the frame black instead of duracoating just b/c I'm so happy with the way it is now I don't want to change it.

totally agree, If it ain't broke don't fix it....... Just so nice to have a gun that goes out and does its part every time to. Just makes range time so enjoyable.. Not sure I would every dura-=coat a kahr frame, they are attractive IMO, why take a chance of messing things up..

[copterdrvr]

Well, did you finally put it all together?

[Copper&Black]

I sent the slide to Kahr to get the Meprolight sights installed, and I'm hopeing to get it back tomorrow. I will post pics when I have it all together again.

On a side note I picked up a PM9 Slide Assy that will be getting the same full polish this P9 has. So my PM9 will have 2 slide assy to choose from, also should I ever come accross a PM9 frame I'll be ready. I'm hopeing to get it in tomorrow as well.

PM9 Slide Assy, for $150 I think I stole it.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/PM9SlideAssy.jpg

[wyntrout]

Wow! Where do you find these deals!??
Wynn:)

[copterdrvr]

I'm going to follow your lead but I'm just going to do the sides-for two reasons. First, I don't have to remove my sights and second, I won't have to worry about any reflection or whatever from the top of the slide.

Thanks for the sandpaper recommendations-I hadn't thought of that. It'll work on keeping the sides "flat" as well.

[copterdrvr]

One other question-did you ever do anything to your trigger? I'm afraid to remove mine, but I used my Dremel tool to polish and bevel the trigger edges. It feels alot better-problem is that I can't get too close to the frame for fear of damaging it so I have a "nonpolished" area near the very top of the trigger. Don't really care (that much) on how it looks but I sure like the way the trigger "feels" when pulled now.

[Copper&Black]

The slide assy I bought came with a spare trigger. I will be doing pretty much the same you did and soften up the edges, and maybe take off a bit of material untill I feel it's perfect, then polish it. I will have my local gunsmith swap them out.

[Copper&Black]

Wow! Where do you find these deals!??
Wynn:)

I keep my ear to the ground :D

[Copper&Black]

The PM9 Slide has arrived!

Looks goods, everything looks in great shape.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/DSCN1162.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/DSCN1160.jpg

[jocko]

One other question-did you ever do anything to your trigger? I'm afraid to remove mine, but I used my Dremel tool to polish and bevel the trigger edges. It feels alot better-problem is that I can't get too close to the frame for fear of damaging it so I have a "nonpolished" area near the very top of the trigger. Don't really care (that much) on how it looks but I sure like the way the trigger "feels" when pulled now.

very wise in leaving the trigger where it is at. You realy can't do any better to it off the gun than on. They are smooth, the trigger really doesn't have any hang ups designed in it. Takeing apart and reinstalling does require a good press to punch the trigger pin out and it is easy to reinstall incorrectly.

Just ask cylinder and slide. they put my PM9 lower back together wrong TWICE. Youcan contour the trigger without taking it off, although it is easier to do off the gun but again kahr triggers IMO are not badly designed either..:blah:

[copterdrvr]

I started working on the sides of my CW9 and P380 slides and it already looks awesome! I actually started out with 320 and then went 400, 600, 800 and then finally 1000 which is the finest I can find. Just doing the sides is REALLY easy and the 320 cut the sides flat pretty darned quick.

I was amazed at how quickly it worked AND how smooth the 320 left the metal. I probably could have gone straight to the 600 and then the 1000 with no problem, but what the heck, I had the paper so I used it. Sure shows fingerprints-I think I'm going to apply some Flitz gun polish to see if that takes care of the prints.

Does it look as totally smooth as yours-no, not yet but it looks WAAAAAY better than it did before and it is pretty damned shiny with just the very teany, tiniest few "iimperfections". I'll take some pics tonight when I get home.

I did these two slides last night while watching TV-doesn't take that much time to get as far as I did.

[Copper&Black]

Sounds good Copter. Stop by an autoparts store (autozone, discount auto etc) to find finer grit then 1000, they have all the way up to 2000.

[Bawanna]

I found up to 1200 in my local auto parts store. When I asked for finer they asked what the heck I was doin?

[Copper&Black]

I found up to 1200 in my local auto parts store. When I asked for finer they asked what the heck I was doin?

They must have not known what they were talking about. 2000 is actually used to begin to polish the car on a top notch paint job to get rid of any orange peel. Followed by a series of polishing compounds and buffers. If some of those auto parts people didn't have their computer they would be as useful as a Gap employee.

[copterdrvr]

Well, it's not a great picture but here's one nights effort. I'll have to find something finer than 1000 to get the best effect. Napa didn't have it!!!

Also a crappy picture but it's late and I have to go to work tomorrow!
http://i754.photobucket.com/albums/xx186/copterdrvr/PICT0255.jpg

[Copper&Black]

Looking good copter!

Got my P9 slide back from Kahr with fresh Meprolight sights installed today. Can’t wait to take her to the range this week and see if she’ll go another 200 flawless rounds so I can put it in the rotation. Also I was messing around with a lathe at my shop and turned out a stainless guide rod for the p9 but after polishing the hell out of it she is now just a touch short, haha. I’ll make another one of these days…
Pics…
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/f9733950.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/843505ad.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/7992cd99.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/d46dc289.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/14782443.jpg

[Bawanna]

I can see myself in the shine even on my crystal ball. How do you make that happen? That's one shiney Kahr and fine looking too.

[bigmacque]

C&B, you're having way too much fun, lots more fun than any man should be allowed. You need to spread that around a bit .... can I just come 'apprentice' for a week or so?

[jeep45238]

They must have not known what they were talking about. 2000 is actually used to begin to polish the car on a top notch paint job to get rid of any orange peel. Followed by a series of polishing compounds and buffers. If some of those auto parts people didn't have their computer they would be as useful as a Gap employee.


Having worked wholesale, retail, automotive (both parts and refinishing) - this is so true it's not even funny.

I had a fellow employee trying to tell a customer to be careful working on his Camaro, the water pump was on the side of the engine according to him (an LT1). :faint2: It's honestly pathetic. I became known as a mechanic for some reason (I'm not) to the customers, because I had a clue, but would also tell them if I didn't know.

I'd like to think that 5 years in the auto parts, and building a F1 style tube frame race car gives me a step or two above your average parts whore though :)

[wyntrout]

Dang! Nice work! It's very beautiful until you stuck those after-market thingies on it. Those are for "working guns". :) That's like sticking a backpack and boots on a beautiful girl in a bikini!
:boink:
Wynn:D

[jlottmc]

I hate to bust a bubble or two, but I found 2000 grit at Wally World of all places. I too hate going to a parts store and trying to get something specific. I got to the point where I take the busted one in and say give me a new one of these. Most of the folks that work there still look at me like a monkey doing a math problem.

[jocko]

ur right our mega center wal-mart has one hel lof a section of fine grip paper. Far better IMO than my NAPA or Auto zone.

WYN; I would have no issues with pulling over on the highway on my Harley to pickup a great looking blonde in a bikina with a backpack and wearing boots. Actually sounds damn exciting to an ol man.

[wyntrout]

Dang! You haven't watched enough of those horror movies where the guys do that and she's a serial killer... or a decoy for her buds who rush up and attack you. Those are the ones to avoid... unless you're maybe just LOOKING for an ADVENTURE.:eek:
Wynn:D

[jlottmc]

Wynn I used to stop and help some on the side of the road. I had two incidents and since stopped doing it altogether. I just scan and keep rolling these days. One incident I had a broken wrist, and was packing a Springfield 1911 that I had built. The littl girl was a decoy, fortunately for me, I caught on about the second time the bushes rustled. I cleared leather about the same time two guys were coming out of the bushes. The close one had a tire iron, and the other one had a rather large looking Buck knife. I kept them at bay with that pistol until I could back into my ride and disappear.

[wyntrout]

For real? Dang! My wife and I have always talked about this, and the only person we would consider, would be an armed forces member in uniform... and I'm not so sure of that anymore. I would stop to help any LE or EMT if it looked like I could help them. I always watch police at work as I go by to see if they are meeting any resistance and might need help. I wouldn't hesitate at all in helping them, but I wouldn't want to be perceived as another threat.
I realize that LEO's have a stressful job and need to react quickly... and I've seen all kinds of examples of how that can go badly for good Samaritans... we have lots of local examples of the GS becoming the victim to a "Decoy" or just a victim of opportunity. Also, the GS can get run over by inattentive or drunk drivers... we have a LOT of those... 24/7/365.25!
Decoy Example (These are actual TV commercials):

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=43438263

Jocko might have stopped for that one, expecting something like this:
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=41246815

Wynn:D

[jeep45238]

I helped out a few when I was naive and in high school. No longer. Call non-emergency police lines, they'll send help.

[frank_drebin]

As a matter a fact I've already pulled the trigger on what color duracoat the frame will get (pic below). And I also shortened up the 7 rd mag I had so that it now sits flush with the base. Took about 3mm out of the bottom and bent new tabs accordingly. She still holds a full 7 just looks a lot nicer.

Pics...
Duracoat color
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/DIAMOND_PLATE_GRAY_C.jpg

Mag
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012090-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012092-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012093-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012094.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012097-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012098-1.jpg

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo180/CopperAndBlack/P1012100-1.jpg

What would you charge to modify magazines? I would love to have 2 flush fit CW/P magazines. Have you considered selling these?

[Copper&Black]

I actually have considered selling shorten mags, but I wouldn't be comfortable selling them until I've tested the hell out of the couple I've made. There were a couple details I didn't mention before. Now the 7rd mag won't take a full 7 rounds with a 7rd spring (too much spring tension). However with a 6rd mag spring installed it handles 7rds no sweat and so far shoots perfect. I have been looking into buying a couple lots of kahr mags, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Unfortunately I flattened out the bottom of my P9, so I can't really use that as reference to make a perfect mag for stock frames. My friend has a CW9 so I guess I will have to borrow his. I could make a jig block for mass production, I would have to start a thread to see what kind of demand there is.

Edit: it does take 7 rounds in the clip with a 7rd spring but it won't snap into the frame with the slide closed (too much tension), but it will with the slide open. So the 7+1 is not an option with the 7rd mag spring.

[frank_drebin]

The only thing I would consider doing (as I am for mine) is adding some small cutouts to the poly to allow for the magazine to be grasped. Something like this.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc81/jbabbler/pistols/P1012097-1.jpg

[Copper&Black]

Had an issue with the shorten mag today at the range. Of the 10 or so clips I put through my P9 on 2 of them it failed to lock open when empty; obviously lack of mag spring length. I need to find a spring in between a 6rd spring and a 7rd mag spring. I think I might order a 6rd spring from wolf, they claim 5% extra power maybe that will do the trick.

[frank_drebin]

Can you take a 7rd spring and remover one coil?

[lamppa]

yes, remover one coil!

[wyntrout]

Dang! This thread is over 2 1/2 years old! Are you sampling your home brew again!??

Wynn:D