How do you know?

[jimbar]

Which powder chart to believe? I'm just getting started in the reloading business. I've almost got all the equipment, and have been reading, and checking youtube videos on just about everything I can find.
One thing I've found is that so far, on about three different charts, the suggested load for 9mm, 115 gr is different on each one, using the same brand of powder.
Since everywhere I look, it is strongly warned to not use more than the maximum load, how do I know which one to use? The difference between charts sometimes suggest loads that are maximum + on other charts.

[Bawanna]

Welcome to the world of reloading. What I did was get at least 3 loading manuals, I like Hornady's the best cause there's a ton of other good information in it too. Then I got a Speer and a Sierra I think.

I never start anywhere close to max, usually closer to minimum to middle of the road and compare the different manuals.

My books are years old and don't even list some of the new powders. I've looked at more recent books and found some of my years old reloads are over their max.

I think there's a big safety margin built in. You just need to look for pressure signs, flattened primers, that sort of thing. I've never owned a chrono and none of us can probably afford the pressure gauges and stuff the factories have so we just have to use visual cues.

Once you find a load that works all the mystery won't matter.

A few of my rules
Never shoot another guys reloads EVER.
Never accept another persons reload data without consulting a manual.
Never count on memory, I look up my load data every time I set up the powder measure.
Stay consistent in your loading process and avoid distractions.
Haste makes waste and probable hazards too.

It's a lot of fun once you get it sorted out and get going, just always have to be vigilant and cautious.

[Ikeo74]

Another thing to go by. Almost 100% of Powder manufactures supply load data for their powders. Look for the web site of the manufacture of the powder you are using. Load your ammo to their specifications with the same bullet they use in their tests. If you do it that way you will be safe and as Bawanna says, start at the middle of their data. Never go higher and never go lower of the minimum and maximum weight data that the printed information the podwer co supplies.
If you post here what powder and bullet you are using, we can direct you to the manufactures load data information. Use their info, it is safe.

[CJB]

Anudderthing....

When you see a chart, you have to remember <--- read that again

You have to remember that the chart was what they found with THOSE components, and the GUN used for testing.

Change powder (and lots DO vary), primers, cases, bullets, or gun, and everything flies out the window.

They always tell you to approach "max" loads with caution. HEED that warning.

If you try to get to some middle of the road load that functions your pistol and is accurate, you're pretty much good to go. There was a time when I carefully worked up MAX loads... even going beyond the books for my own gun, but they were not as much fun to shoot, and I was not as accurate with them.

Nice easy shootin' stuff... accurate... thats me now.

If you choose a middle of the road load, component changes won't push you over the edge.

And one more thing - if you ever try to load hot loads, and use mixed brass... different brands, and different lots... you may just get an awful surprise like a blown case.

Be sensible, be careful, never trust your noggin.

For that last part - I always did everything in 50's. Fifty primers out, fifty accounted for. Fifty cases ready, fifty charges dropped -- visual inspect for double charge. I'd actually throw the "last one" double, so I'd have a visual clue as to what a double looks like, do the inspection, then rethrow the last charge single. All in one of those nice little loading trays.

Be safe, be happy... be alert... after all, the world needs more lerts.

[Bawanna]

Excellent points CJB. I do the same with trays, accounting for primers, the double charge drop. I have a mirror mounted on my progressive so I can see every charge, 1 to make sure it dropped and 2 to make sure it isn't doubled.

A consistent routine I think is a big plus.

I have a detective that wants to come over and load 308's. I really don't want to do it, told him it's not a quilting party and it's easy to lose focus. I'd rather show him how to do it and go away or just do it myself.

He's obsessive over details too, good for a detective but drives me crazy.

[OldLincoln]

Finally???? You don't need to go past middle loads for target practice. You just want to have enough to get the bullet downrange with accuracy and make the slide do it's thing. I picked a load in the middle range and it worked but the slide felt weak, so I added a 10th grain and fixed that and haven't changed it since. No failures.

If you hear anything odd when you pull the trigger, set the gun on the bench if you have one a take a deep breath. Unload the gun, lock it back, finger the chamber, and look in the barrel for a squib. That usually happens when you get careless reloading and don't get a proper charge in the case. I cut a wood dowel and carry it in my range bag for an easy check.

Yes I admit I had one out of a too large load session and lost my concentration. The squib was enough, but the penance was tough pulling apart 200 rounds and reloading them to make sure I only had the one incorrect charge.

[jocko]

when I reloaded I always did it by myself, I fokk up enough withut someone helping me do it.

[MW surveyor]

Another thing that you have to remember is that bullet designs are "generally" different for each manufacturer. With some you have to set deeper in the case so that it fits into your particular gun. Others you may have to set further out.

I generally load only lead bullets and for some of the ones that I load, the OAL is much shorter than in the books. If you've got to load shorter, you need to be careful to go a bit less on the number of grains. Also, I start at the starting load and work up to the finished round that gives the most consistent accuracy and also operates the slide (for my semi-autos), accuracy for my revolvers.

[jimbar]

for the responses. I'm going to start out with Alliant's Bullseye, and Unique, from what I've read, both seem to be long standing favorites for pistol loads. I've printed out charts from Alliants web site, plus I have Lee's latest book, and am getting Hornady' latest.
I suspect this is a lot like asking "what type of oil do you use? " on a Harley forum,....everybody has a different answer, based on their favorite. I'll do my homework, and get through it, hopefully with no "unexpected" bangs ! I only plan on loading Minimum to medium loads, just for range shooting, no compettive shooting, no exotic loads, not yet anyway.

[muggsy]

You can go wrong with Bullseye or Unique, but I've found Alliant's Power Pistol to be a lot cleaner burning. They only list a max charge in their loading data so reduce it by 10% as a starting load. Make sure that you use the primer specified. Some primers are hotter burning and that can raise pressures. Do not allow any distractions while you are reloading and double check everything that you do if you value your gun and the various parts of your anatomy.