Proper prep of a new kahr

[jocko]

Here are some helpful suggestions to set your new kahr up before heading to the range as compiled by Jocko, with the help of the forum members.



Proper prep of a new Kahr


Here are some helpful suggestions to set your new Kahr up before heading to the range, as compiled by Jocko, with the help of the forum members.

#1. Read and then reread your owner’s manual. There are some real MUST DO's in there that if you don't you will have issues.


#2. Clean your new gun; don’t assume Kahr did it. They don't and there could be crud in places where it should not be. Take that slide off and look for the little hole in the bottom of the slide. That is your striker channel clean out hole. Insert your spray cleaner nozzle in there and spray away. Fluids will come out both ends.

Now, with one finger, pull back on the striker at the back of the slide and continue to spray in that hole and also spray clean from that breech hole also. You have now cleaned that striker channel without disassembly. DO NOT OIL THE STRIKER CHANNEL. Refer to the Kahr Tech section. Look for the sticky marked KAHR LUBE DIAGRAM. Point #9 shows the clean out hole and this is the best lube chart for any semi auto to.


#3. Grease the slide rails, or if you prefer a particular gun oil, fine. Just lube the slide, or, better yet, go to the Kahr Tech section and hit on the Kahr lube section. This will save a lot of explaining. If you have a Dremel, I would suggest a good polishing of the already smooth feed ramp, and inside the chamber also. You can't hurt anything with a nice polish job. The lube chart is the 2nd sticky on this KAHR TECH thread. It is simply the best.


#4. Now, with an empty gun and no magazine, rack the slide numerous times, this will help recoil spring set without the bang thing happening. Hand racking never replaces the actual "bang" thing but it does not hurt a thing either.


#5 Take your magazines apart and recheck to see that they are properly put together right, too. If the spring is in backward the angle of the spring will mess up the magazine follower and u will have issues. Then, if you have some 600+ grit auto sand paper, just roll it up like a pencil and polish the under side of the feed lips on your magazines. Do not oil the magazines, wipe with a silicone cloth at most. Alittle tip to take you magazine apart. Insert a nail in the last hole and then you can slide the floor plate off easier, To install the floor plate, push the magazine spring in as far as u can with your finger and then insert that nail through the last hole. It will then hold the spring in place and you can slide on the magazine floor place easily UPDATE Sept 20, forum member HOGHUNTER just got 3 kahr mags from kahr and all 3 had the springs in backwards.. CHECK ur magazines
The spring angle should point upward towards the front of the mag tube

#6 To check to see if you have any issues with the slide lock lever hitting the rounds in the magazine, take the slide off and insert the slide lock lever, then reinsert a loaded magazine. Check to see if the top round is hitting the slide lock lever and moving it upward. That is a NO-NO.


#7. Break in the gun with FMJ ammo. Forget about the defense stuff until it is running right. Practice close, stay 7 yards and under, get a good grip on the gun, and watch your thumb to see that it is not accidentally hitting the slide lock lever and causing premature slide lock-back. Inadvertently hitting the slide lock lever while shooting is a known cause of premature slide-lock back.If ur having issues of premature slide locking open, try shooting it left handed. If the issue goes away, u know ur thumb is the culprit


#8. Don't worry about the accuracy of the pistol until you have the gun running reliably with both types of ammo. Sometimes the 200 round break-in is necessary, but most of the time, if the gun is properly prepped, it is not.


#9. Be aware that you can limp wrist these little guns far easier than the bigger ones. Keep your shooting at 7 yards and under.


#10 Kahrs have a long but totally smooth trigger system. GET USED TO IT. The more rounds down range the better your groups will be to. Remember you and the gun have to mate up correctly for all things to work right. A very good test of your shooting skills with a Kahr is to buy a half dozen Snap Caps and throw them in with 30 rounds of FMJ range fodder. Let someone load your magazine for you, so you don't know if any Snap Caps are in that magazine. I can assure you, it will show your shooting errors BIG TIME.


#11. Use a good gun cleaner spray. Gunscrubber is good stuff, but very expensive. I will tell you what works for me and harms nothing on the gun, polymer included.

#12. If ur new gun gives some shooting issues, let another good shooter try your gun out, if he can duplicate your issues, then you can assume the issues are gun related and not shooter related. We call that eliminating the POSSABILITIES. Kahr can fix their guns but they cannot fix the SHOOTER.. Do not panic in the first 200 rounds of shooting your new kahr. Give the gun and the shooter both time and rounds down range for both to mate up properly. If u follow the above tips, your kahr will perform perfect, or for that matter any semi you own

Go to Napa and look for NAPA brand BRAKLEEN CRC non cholorinated brake cleaner # 091314CA. or my preference is 3M brand part # 08180 . Good stuff, won't harm anything on your kahr or polymer guns. If u like the gun brand spray cleaners, that is fine. they will all do the same job, some are just alot lower in price.

I would suggest wearing rubber gloves or just use common sense. If it gets on your skin, it will dry your skin out, as this stuff takes the oil out of everything it comes in contact with. Gunscrubber will also be hard on your skin, so use common sense. This stuff will clean in places that you might think needs to be taken apart, but not on a Kahr. Everything is right there in front of you, just spray away, then re-oil where parts were originally oiled.


We will continue to update this section in hopes that later on down the road we can just direct a new owner to this thread and not have to keep repeating ourselves.

Good luck and just shoot it like you stole it, and many thanks to those who have contributed
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Information on the slide lock lever and the slide lock spring that should be helpful to all the Polymer kahr shooters... submitted by WYNTROUT

That slide stop spring shouldn't move. The screw is a T-5 Torx (In the P380) and needs tightening. Use the correct screwdriver and tighten the screw just until you feel resistance. Remember the screw is metal and the frame you're screwing it into is polymer... PLASTIC. Don't overtighten... you'll strip the screw and then you need a NEW FRAME. That little screw never actually tightens, so lightly snugged is best. Best thing is to not mess with that little screw at all. If you strip the threads out of the polymer frame, you have some options. Send it back to kahr and they will fix it somehow. OR take some super glue or finger nail polish and coat those threads on that little screw and reset it in the polymer fram. SNUGGED. andyou willbe good to go. This is a fix that will work.

The torx screw in the Polymer kahrs EXCEPT the P380 is a size T6 The P380 is a size 5 torx. obtainable at sears.. or harbor freight even.

When you insert the slide lock, have the release lever at about 4 o'clock and tilted to the right so that you get the pin just to the left of the spring and push it ASIDE, not bend it inward, as you insert the pin. When it's about halfway in (and going into the peanut-shaped hole on the barrel lug) orient the lever up to go through the cutout in the slide. The slide lock should click into place and the lever should rebound back up when you depress it. If the spring is secure, there should be downward pressure by the free end of the spring on the little shelf for it on the inside of the slide lock lever. This should stop all of your random early slide locks.

MAGAZINE FIX: some have reported that their 2nd or 3rd round tends to nose dive in their kahrs. Here is what is happeing, as the magazine follower is moving upward when it hits that area where about round 2 or 3 is still in the magazine, that follower is now in that magazine slot hole where the magazine button locks into it. That magazine button is actually stopping that follower from sliding past it without any hindrance. Now I can tell you the fix but if you will just go to the sticky by GB6491 on CW fixes, and scroll down, u will see in with a great photo tutorial how to fix this issues. It is a peace of cake. A quick test to see if u have this issue, is unload the magazine, take the floor plate off the magazine and pull the spring and follower out of the magazine. Now insert the empty magazine in the gun until it locks in place. Now with the spring still under the follower insert it slowly in the magazine upward and feel for a stoppage before the follower gets to the top of the magazine. If u feel stoppage, then go to GB 6491 sticky and see how easy this fix is. OR pull the follower out and sand the right side of the follower back alittle where it comes into view in that magazine slot opening, smooth it with 600+ grit paper and retest, It will not take much to get clearance.. I would even recommend one to pre-test this out before going to the range. will take 5 minutes to test out. Get ur gun prepped right and all the little tid bits of information that this forum can supply before that first range trip and it will be a big success... This magazine fix is usually the culprit in 90% of all NOSEDIVE ISSUES.

I hope this will get your P380 and any other Polymer kahr, back into action and stop those early slide locks.

[Vinikahr]

This should be a sticky!

Thanks Oracle!

[Wolfpacker]

thank you for this! Perfect!

[In-Yo-Grill]

This should be a sticky!

Thanks Oracle!

We're not Worthy...We're not Worthy...We're not Worthy...!!!

[jocko]

now if you guys willjust feedme some more helpful tips on Proper preppingof your new kahr, they might just get added to the list. I do think it can save all of us veterans on this forumthe repettion of telling a new owner all that we know. We can just send himto this site and let him read and learn..

again thanks to all the forum people who have contributed to that thread.. I can only take credit for putting all the stuff together. Alot of you guys have postred alot of this stuff in threads that I just correlated into a readable form.

[Rotty37]

This is exactly what I did with my P380 and PM9 and they have been flawless.

Excellent Post!!

[noslolo]

Hey Jocko, just following your directions of reading this post. Do you have any suggestions for a good spray cleaner?

[Wolfpacker]

maybe a picture or two detailing Tip #2 a little better? I am not around my gun at the moment, and since it's brand new am having a hard time picturing this area and where to spray. and what kind of spray cleaner are you suggesting?

[Rotty37]

M-Pro 7 is a great spray cleaner and also safe on polymer parts and frames. I've been using this for my P380 and PM9 and its been great. I do recommend a good can of of air for those nooks and crannies to blow out any left over , excess cleaner. Then I wipe down and use any lubricant grease/oil that you use and your good to go.

M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaning Products (http://www.mpro7.com/index.html)

M-Pro 7 FAQ - Gun Cleaning Products (http://www.mpro7.com/MPro7-Faqs.htmL)

[Bawanna]

M-Pro 7 is a great spray cleaner and also safe on polymer parts and frames. I've been using this for my P380 and PM9 and its been great. I do recommend a good can of of air for those nooks and crannies to blow out any left over , excess cleaner. Then I wipe down and use any lubricant grease/oil that you use and your good to go.

M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaning Products (http://www.mpro7.com/index.html)

M-Pro 7 FAQ - Gun Cleaning Products (http://www.mpro7.com/MPro7-Faqs.htmL)

I like the M-Pro 7 also. Hoppe's Elite is the exact same stuff. Hoppes' agreed to market it for M-Pro. Works good, no smell to earn getting beat up by the missus doesn't burn and it's effective. The little clean out hole we're talking about really requires some sort of aerosol to get the job done, the canned air is a big plus many times also.

[getsome]

Jocko likes the non chlorinated 3M brake cleaner you can pick up at any NAPA auto parts store for under 5 bucks...I tried a can and it works great and has more spray pressure than other products and will not hurt plastic but it has a pretty strong solvent odor and the boss got mad at me for using it in her kitchen....I like to use Electronic spray cleaner which I also get at an auto parts store...It is $5.99 for a big can...it wont hurt any kind of plastic and doesn't have any odor and dries very fast....The little striker clean out hole is on the bottom of the slide and with the muzzle end facing away from you its on the right side close to the breach...Put the little red tube that comes with the spray can into that hole and blast away, if you see liquid coming out of both ends of the striker channel you have found the hole...DO NOT use any oil on the striker or it will attract dirt, carbon and will gunk up and cause light primer strikes....

[jocko]

amen to all of that. All these cleaners are excellent and far better price than the over priced GUN SCRUBBER and some of the other gun sprays, which are almost exactly the same stuff as GETSOME is talking about.

Just like car batteries. Only a few comanies left even making car batterys but you can find a 100 different brand name batteries out there for sale, and they are basically all made by maybe 3 battery companies. I have no doubt GUNS CRUBBER does not make or can fill their sprays, nor hoppe's either..

[Wolfpacker]

Insert your spray cleaner nozzle in there and spray away.

so compressed air cleaner into this hole. NOT gun cleaner spray. That's what i was confused about, but i'm all clear now. Excited about the range tomorrow

[jocko]

so compressed air cleaner into this hole. NOT gun cleaner spray. That's what i was confused about, but i'm all clear now. Excited about the range tomorrow

spray cleaner in the hole, Like the 3M brand I recommend. It has also the pressure behind it like compressed air but has the solvent non cholorinated cleaner in it also to clean that area slicker than a whistle.

Oops sorry about that Wolfpacker. wrong symbol. Jocko's to old to get mad, but never to old to get even...but again damn it, Bawanna is right. I get mad at him but as u see he pays zero attention, by the way he is carving me a solid and I mean sold gold set of grips for my K9, so I have to be nice to him....

[Bawanna]

spray cleaner in the hole, Like the 3M brand I recommend. It has also the pressure behind it like compressed air but has the solvent non cholorinated cleaner in it also to clean that area slicker than a whistle. ...:32:

Wolfpacker, I'm sure Jocko's not really mad, he just loves messing around with the different smiley faces. Just wanted to clarify that. He usually only get really mad at me and I don't think he really means in a hurtful way, course I could be wrong again.

[Wolfpacker]

Didn't even notice. Followed all the directions to a T. Ready for tomorrow :)

[Swat_dude]

I am a little confused on #6. My gun is at Robar right now so I can't check it, but what are you supposed to do if the slide lock lever is hitting the rounds? Does this have to do more with the type of ammo you use or a known flaw?

[jocko]

I am a little confused on #6. My gun is at Robar right now so I can't check it, but what are you supposed to do if the slide lock lever is hitting the rounds? Does this have to do more with the type of ammo you use or a known flaw?

assuming that you have broken in your new kahr before sending it to Robar. tob esure it is totally relaible before spending all that money for refinish work. It if is reliable, then you don't nee dto worry about #6. that was put in there to alert a person who might be having pre mature slide locking open.

If that happens, you can get a new slide lock from kahr to test out, or also file a tad of fon the inside where the round is hitting the slide lock lever. This is done alot on other model guns that have this issue. Or you can go to a different round and test out. One of the 3 will solve that issue,if one has it. Most kahrs do not have this issue, so fear not, your more than likely good to go. Hopefully you have put the normal break in rounds down range to feel confident of its reliability before letting Robar do their thing..

[Tilos]

jocko:
Thanks for the preshooting prep info.

As a new kahr owner, I found it technically spot on, and a great help for me in making my first range visit go smooth and trouble free.

And now the but...could you edit your list and add some breaks/paragraphs to make it easier to read and follow.:o

Thanks again,
Just sayin'
Tilos

[sviking]

And now the but...could you edit your list and add some breaks/paragraphs to make it easier to read and follow.

Stick around long enough (or know jocko/porsche from other gun forums) and you'll see you "gets what you gets" with that one when it comes to grammar. Now "go shot it lik u stole it"... :behindsofa:

He does post good info, though. :D

[Swat_dude]

assuming that you have broken in your new kahr before sending it to Robar. tob esure it is totally relaible before spending all that money for refinish work. It if is reliable, then you don't nee dto worry about #6. that was put in there to alert a person who might be having pre mature slide locking open.

If that happens, you can get a new slide lock from kahr to test out, or also file a tad of fon the inside where the round is hitting the slide lock lever. This is done alot on other model guns that have this issue. Or you can go to a different round and test out. One of the 3 will solve that issue,if one has it. Most kahrs do not have this issue, so fear not, your more than likely good to go. Hopefully you have put the normal break in rounds down range to feel confident of its reliability before letting Robar do their thing..

Yes I did put 200 rounds of Magtech ammo through it to verify functioning. I had NO malfunctions and I even attemted to limp wrist it and also fired 25 rounds with my off hand. It was 100%!

[sviking]

Yes I did put 200 rounds of Magtech ammo through it to verify functioning.

That's hardly a proper break-in. Were those Magtech hollowpoints? Did you so any testing at all with your chosen carry ammo? Then some other types in case that's not available?

[jocko]

In that case you will really enjoy ur robared kahr. Their work is awesome to say the least. Nice to see you tried to limp the gun to. I have tried that many times and I cannot do it, hard to understand how some can do it and not be aware of it. I can limp my G19 easier but I have to try to do it also.

Sure wolud be nice to see some finished photos when u get it back.. I had a kel tec 380 once that I sent to APE Cogkan for a stain finish platign, he also ported that little sucker for me, like shown in his photos and did some action work (which was a wastee of money) anyway, after I got it back I fired about maybe 100 rounds or less out of it and damn if the recoil springws didn't fly right out the front of the slide. Not his fault but just a defective slide. Kel Tec replaced my slide with a blued slide only, and I was out all that custom work money, that why I wanted u to be sure the kahr was totally reliabe before spending good moeny on custom work, only to have a major issue that needs replacement. You seem good to go..

[dademoss]

Jocko,

My thanks, took my new Kahr CW-9 to the range after following your post. 200 flawless rounds. :-D

[Swat_dude]

That's hardly a proper break-in. Were those Magtech hollowpoints? Did you so any testing at all with your chosen carry ammo? Then some other types in case that's not available?

Did you read the previous posts? This was just to eliminate the possibility of any issues prior to sending the gun to Robar. I already have 100 rounds of Gold Dot 124 gr +P's and 40 rounds of Corbon PB awaiting her return.

[Swat_dude]

In that case you will really enjoy ur robared kahr. Their work is awesome to say the least. Nice to see you tried to limp the gun to. I have tried that many times and I cannot do it, hard to understand how some can do it and not be aware of it. I can limp my G19 easier but I have to try to do it also.

Sure wolud be nice to see some finished photos when u get it back.. I had a kel tec 380 once that I sent to APE Cogkan for a stain finish platign, he also ported that little sucker for me, like shown in his photos and did some action work (which was a wastee of money) anyway, after I got it back I fired about maybe 100 rounds or less out of it and damn if the recoil springws didn't fly right out the front of the slide. Not his fault but just a defective slide. Kel Tec replaced my slide with a blued slide only, and I was out all that custom work money, that why I wanted u to be sure the kahr was totally reliabe before spending good moeny on custom work, only to have a major issue that needs replacement. You seem good to go..

Oh believe me I can relate. I had my Ruger LCP coated and then they had the dang recall. Robar was really cool about it and plated the new parts when I got the pistol back for only a $30 disassembly and reassembly fee. I will definitely post up some picks when I get it back.

[Bawanna]

Here ya go Ninja, I had a hard time finding it myself.

[crasha51pan]

Jocko

Bought 2 cans of 3M 08880, worked great. About polishing the metal. my dremmel has two brushes, one is wire and the other is bristle. Which one do I use, or does it matter ? Both are for polishing metal..

[getsome]

Hi crasha51pan, jocko is taking a nap right now....All you need is one of the wool polishing bits....You dont want to take off any metal, just polish it...I don't have a Dremel tool so this is what I did...Went to the auto parts store and bought some super fine 3M 1200 grit black wet or dry sandpaper and lightly polished the feed ramp and chamber by hand with that wrapped tightly around a wood dowel...I then took some Mother's metal polish and since I already had one of their cone shaped foam polishing tools (I use on my truck mag wheels, works great) I used it with the metal polish and a battery drill and made the whole barrel look like a mirror....Remember, easy does it, polish but don't take off any metal...Good luck and jocko will be up in a little while....

[Bawanna]

Hi crasha51pan, jocko is taking a nap right now....All you need is one of the wool polishing bits....You dont want to take off any metal, just polish it...I don't have a Dremel tool so this is what I did...Went to the auto parts store and bought some super fine 3M 1200 grit black wet or dry sandpaper and lightly polished the feed ramp and chamber by hand with that wrapped tightly around a wood dowel...I then took some Mother's metal polish and since I already had one of their cone shaped foam polishing tools (I use on my truck mag wheels, works great) I used it with the metal polish and a battery drill and made the whole barrel look like a mirror....Remember, easy does it, polish but don't take off any metal...Good luck and jocko will be up in a little while....

Precisely correct getsome. Sparks mean moving metal=not good. I use the wet or dry on the dowel prior to the dremel myself. Any polish will help the process (with the dremel, not the wet or dry). I've used Flitz as well as regular polishing compound.
I think Jocko woke up from his nap and went for a ride on his Harley. Suspect he'll be back shortly.

[BroncoAZ]

A couple of things:

First, with spray chemicals safety glasses are a must! I hosed myself in the eyes a few months back while cleaning the firing pin channel on a Sig 229, no fun.

Second, how difficult is it to remove the back plate on the slide to remove the striker? On the outside it looks no worse than a Glock, and I take down my Glocks down all the way with no issues. I'm amazed at how much gunk I can get out of the extractor channel.

I picked up my new PM9 today and will be following the guidelines tomorrow.

Thanks,

Mitch

[jocko]

A couple of things:

First, with spray chemicals safety glasses are a must! I hosed myself in the eyes a few months back while cleaning the firing pin channel on a Sig 229, no fun.

Second, how difficult is it to remove the back plate on the slide to remove the striker? On the outside it looks no worse than a Glock, and I take down my Glocks down all the way with no issues. I'm amazed at how much gunk I can get out of the extractor channel.

I picked up my new PM9 today and will be following the guidelines tomorrow.

Thanks,

Mitch

not any more trouble than a glock to remove that back plate. Just really unnecessary to do so with that little clean out hole. I have never had that back plate off on my glock in over 5000 rounds. as their little clean out hole seems to clean that inside very well. I have never had my extractor out of my PM9 in 28,900 rounds, I just spray behind it and reoil and it has never given one issue. Kahr has a patent on thier extractor, and if one reads up on it, they "claim" their extractor is self cleaning, whether that really holds true our not is ones own opinion. I cna just say that i have never had mine apart, as it seems to spray clean pretty decent also.

[dmdalton]

Jocko,

Thanks for the info. Very helpful.

Dave D

[yoyomeng]

#10 < ... > Let someone load your magazine for u, so u don't know if any snap caps are in that magazine. I can assure u, it will show ur shooting errors BIGTIME..


Just wondering what the rationale is here? How will it show your errors?

[Bawanna]

Just wondering what the rationale is here? How will it show your errors?

Having someone else load your mags keeps you from knowing or anticipating a snap cap or training round. If you move when a snap cap chambers it tells you that you are flinching, anticipating, or making an allowance of some sort prior to the gun firing. Nothing should happen, no movement when you shoot a snap cap. Easier said than done also. Lots of experienced shooters slip now and then and you get a called flier. You knew it was going off target right as you pull the trigger.

[Mudinyeri]

Another tip ... coat the slide rail with Bux Dri-Slide if you can find it. If you can't find the Bux brand, you should be able to find Dri-Slide at most bicycle shops. Just make sure it's labeled Molybdenum Disulfide.

To coat the slide rails:
1. Remove the slide from the frame per the normal field stripping technique
2. Remove the guide rod and barrel from the slide per the normal field stripping technique
3. Turn slide over so you are looking at the under-side of the slide
4. Ensure that the end of the slide with the opening for the barrel and guide rod is tilted up at about a 45 degree angle
5. Place one drop of Dri-Slide at the top of each rail and allow it to run down the rails until it runs out of the slide (it's black and will make a mess so do this over an old towel or something similar)
6. Allow the liquid to dissipate before re-assembling the gun
7. Re-assemble the gun
8. Rack the slide several times and note the smoothness of the movement
9. Re-apply after about every 250-500 cycles of the slide

[jlottmc]

I may need to link to this in my signature...

[mattroach]

Ran through these steps with my brand new p380 today.
Went to the range afterwards with the following results.
1st 100 rds-3 FTF (2 WWB, 1 Rem UMC)
next 150 rds-no problems
1/2 box speer gold dot-no problems
Overall, I am very happy with the gun, and it is very accurate.

[jocko]

nice report, some would have panicked with the 3ftf etc, but no doubt rounds down range is the best break in one can do for any gun, but the propper prepping makes the pain alittle easier also. I love my P380, the most accurate of allmy 3 kahrs, now figure that sh-t out if u can..

[Mudinyeri]

I followed Jocko's (and my) break-in recommendations for my new PM9 and had not a single FTF.

[cptdean]

This should be a sticky!

Thanks Oracle!

+1 on the sticky request.

[Bawanna]

I gotta add a plus 1 also. This is the most visited thread in the whole forum. It should be officially blessed with a sticky.

[wyntrout]

The rails that do the work and need the lubing are the ones embedded in the frame that mate with the two small grooves on the front of the slide, under the barrel and guide rod openings. Those two rails handle most of the recoil... those plastic rails aren't load-bearing but do get chewed up a bit by the contact with metal.
I have been using white lithium grease on those. I just got some Tetra grease and I put a small line of that in the grooves and then mash the grease into the grooves. I put a little bit of the grease along the inner edge of those embedded rails. I put a tiny dab of the grease in the beginning of the rail grooves at the back of the slide. Then I put the gun back together and rack the slide about a dozen times to distribute the grease along the bearing areas.
I got some Tetra lubricant for the other parts of the gun. It's all "gee-whiz space-age" stuff and has a bit more viscosity than most oils used in lubricating guns. It actually "treats" the parts and decreases friction... in the barrel, too.
The 8-oz. Lubricant was $11 and the 1-oz. Grease was $5 at a gun show.
Dang, I just read the instructions... for the first time. Hmmmm....

FTI, Inc. - Tetra Gun Care Products (http://www.tetraproducts.com/tech_info.asp)

Wynn:)

[jlottmc]

Back to the top for you!!!!!!

[wyntrout]

Slide Lock Spring care and insertion:

http://kahrtalk.com/p-cw-series-pistols/3275-new-p380-any-special-fluff-buff-considerations.html#post34206

There are links there and pictures.

Wynn:)

[jlottmc]

Back to the top.

[Kenjs2]

:yell:I need some help.

I bought my new P380 about three weeks ago and I went through the prep as its listed here as best I could (Im new at all this). We then went to the range for the 200 breakin rounds and Im having trouble. In the first 100 rounds I've had 3 slide locks and two failure to eject. After that I cleaned it again and noticed a burr on that thin point on the chamber end of the barrel, it almost looked like that point was being peened over causing the burr. I have no idea where to go from here. Do I go ahead and shoot the second 100 rounds, do I remove the burr first or what?

I was shooting American Eagle 95 gr. FMJ ammo (AE380AP)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I sure like this little pistol.

Thanks,

[midmo]

i have castrol gun stippper and hoppes 9 in one spray...is this ok to use in the striker channel? if it is do i need to put anything in the channel to keep the humidity from fouling any of the internal parts?

[HadEmAll]

Very good stuff Jocko.

Good point on #10 - "get used to it". I might add-don't try to anticipate the letoff point, pull straight through on the trigger, while concentrating on the front sight.

I used to think if you could anticipate the letoff point, it would almost be a single action. I always pulled rounds low doing this. It was never productive.

When I just concentrated on pulling straight through while also concentrating on the front sight, it became apparent to me that these little guns are capable of superb accuracy.

[HadEmAll]

.........The torx screw in the Polymer kahrs EXCEPT the P380 is a size T6...........


My P380 has two T5 Torx, my PM40 has one T5 Torx. No T6.

[earle8888]

wyn--that Tetra is Greaaaaat stuff. I have had great success with the 'metal treatment' I did a very thorough job on Glock 19, P45, PM40, S&W 52-2, as well as many 1911's, prior to shooting LEAD and the clean-up is a breeze! I have found it difficult to find in this area and at local gun shows, nearly always have to order on line. I am trying the Wilson grease in the hyperemic to see how well it works, love the applicator method. Wilson has some propaganda about their grease availaabale from they if you wish.

[My 1st Kahr]

Many thanks to Jocko, got my new K9 yesterday and cleaned it normally, had a very "rough" day shooting it at the range. Came home ready to sell it then browsed the tech section, read and printed out Jocko's tutorial, then spent the morning following it to a tee and all is well now in Kahrland! I'm very pleased with it but have a question. Is that procedure necessary for every cleaning or just occasionally or after every so many rounds? Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Bawanna]

I would consider it just a one time break in procedure. There are parts of it, cleaning the striker channel, etc that carry over with cleaning.
In that same tech area there is a great lube chart diagram that is pretty helpful as well. I've used that same basic criteria for all my autos for years.

Theres some good stuff there. Glad your Kahr woes are over and all is well again.

[My 1st Kahr]

Thanks Bawanna, so I should spray the striker channel every cleaning? Thx, Mike

[jocko]

Thanks Bawanna, so I should spray the striker channel every cleaning? Thx, Mike

me and your gonna clean the gun, then indeed just insert that spray nozzle in that little clean out hole and spray away. Might take 5 seconds longer for over all cleaning but no disassembly is needed now, just keep the channel clean and dry and it will stay that way. That kahr lube chart in the kahr tech section is awesome. I am very fond on TW25 grease i the syringeapplicator.

Mil-comm.com

[My 1st Kahr]

thanks again Jocko! Gotcha on the lube chart and grease too.

[mbaza3]

I have a new P380 and I was following the prepping steps. I was wondering if I should clean the frame with the non-chlorinated brake cleaner spray?

[BroncoAZ]

No. Brake cleaner is not necessary, and as nasty as that stuff is, likely not good for the polymer.

[mbaza3]

Thanks. I used a dry brush on the magazine well and all the frame parts. Then, I oiled the frame as instructed in the lubrication instructions.

[jocko]

No. Brake cleaner is not necessary, and as nasty as that stuff is, likely not good for the polymer.

not nasty stuff and simply willnot harm polymer one bit. doesn't bother me one way or the other what spray cleaner u use, but many many use the 3M brand. It is not nasty and it does not harm polymer one bit.:banplease

If it is non cholorinated, it will not harm polymer, just not very many cleaners left out there that are non cholorinated.. If in doubt go buy the Gun Scrubber brand for about $8. damn near the same stuff.certainly you folks realize that gunscrubber doesnt make the product, They are just ripping off the gun owners with the same stuff as the non cholorinated other sprays out there. If u wanna pay 6-8 bucks for Gun scrubber that is fine, I will stick with my $3 and under 3M brand from Napa. Part #08880

[BroncoAZ]

CRC brand non chlorinated brake clean ate the coating off of the oil pan on my truck last year, I'll pass on using it on my guns. The hazards to the user are not good either. At least use it outside to avoid inhaling the vapors.

Here is the MSDS for that 3M 08880 product:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSuUn_zu8l00xl829Mx_ZPv70k 17zHvu9lxtD7SSSSSS--

[jocko]

Heh, thats fine, I can tell u that I have used it for over 6 years, on my G19, Smith M & P, Kahrs, Rugers and probably hundreds have used it on this forum with not one issue with the polymer or steel. spray guns scrubber, hoppes#9, 3 #m on wood finish grips and it will damage them, painted surfaces are alot different than polymer and steel. That is a no brainer for any gun cleaner. I will continue to recommend 3JM and similar non cholrinated products until someone can show me a melted polymer grip or damage metal. ain't gonna happen, but what ever floats ones boat is fine with me. I don't work for 3M but I know a good savings when I see and use it...

[BroncoAZ]

Jocko,

I have used non chlor brake clean on steel parts, but not polymer. As for the truck, the guy at Cummins told me the oil pans were painted and also had a polymer coating sprayed on top of the paint. I was cleaning the bottom of the engine and transmission to identify the source of an oil seep. Where the brake clean was forming drips on the bottom of the pan near the drain plug the coating bubbled and wiped off with a rag afterwards.

I was reading some interesting related threads on Glocktalk, the concensus over there seems 50/50, but the people supporting their arguement with chemistry agree with you.

[Bawanna]

Chemist agree with Jocko!:eek: I have a whole new respect for this man/biker/legend.

[jocko]

Jocko,

I have used non chlor brake clean on steel parts, but not polymer. As for the truck, the guy at Cummins told me the oil pans were painted and also had a polymer coating sprayed on top of the paint. I was cleaning the bottom of the engine and transmission to identify the source of an oil seep. Where the brake clean was forming drips on the bottom of the pan near the drain plug the coating bubbled and wiped off with a rag afterwards.

I was reading some interesting related threads on Glocktalk, the concensus over there seems 50/50, but the people supporting their arguement with chemistry agree with you.

I should not question those glock talk guys:banplease: please show me a damaged polymer gun with 3M cleaner. It is not worth arguing about IMO. use what u want. I will continue to promote a good prodect and let the owners beware. By the way my son is an engineer at cummins in columbus, Ind. super company gorwing leaps and bounds. I have no idea what they spray their oil pans with but my contention is that a polymer based paint is far different than a total polymer product. I contend that most any spray cleaner will damage paint to a degree, some more than others.

stick with your good stuff, no problem from this fella.

[BroncoAZ]

I guess you didn't read my post. I was saying that the credible people agreed with you.

What is with the ban me smilie crap?

[Bawanna]

Yup, reread Jocko, Bronco AZ conceded that the smart fellas agree with ya.

Now don't make me come down there and cut a switch.

I cant believe chemist agree with Jocko, the man, the myth, the legend.

Can he say crap here? Hmm maybe so, maybe so.

[jocko]

No I understood I was referring to the 50% who disagree with me. no offense on the ban me, but over on the glock forum, those guys are hard on people who knock glocks , they protect their turff, which is understandble.. I have no chemical background, other than spray it on, if it doesn't melt, I give it a A+..

smart?? WTF, my son is a mechanical engineeer from one of the top engineering colleges in the country BUT ASK HIM TO CHANGE OIL IN HIS CAR???

[BroncoAZ]

I have both Glock and Kahr (3 now) and don't participate in the ford vs. chevy style debate. I just want my guns to be clean and last long. I haven't purchased a can of gun scrubber or similar products in 10 years. I clean the polymer with a damp cloth or qtips, usually no solvent required. If I need a solvent I use 70% diluted isopropyl alcohol, but that is usually only used on metal parts. Regular gun oil on a qtip also seems to break up most gunk reasonably well.

[Denny M]

Regarding #4 - Does it matter if the return spring is in the gun?

[jocko]

Regarding #4 - Does it matter if the return spring is in the gun?

indeed, the recoil spring in the break in session of actual shooting will take a pre designed set, by hand racking your speeding up the process somewhat and also by hand racking with spring resistance the slide is working harder to mate itself with the lower section. I state 500 times, u can do what ever number you want, doesn't have to be all in one session. I can tell you it doesn't take long to rack the gun a couple hundred times...:cheer2:

[zhills]

[QUOTE=jocko;14512]Here are some helpful suggestions to set your new kahr up before heading to the range as compiled by Jocko, with the help of the forum members.



Proper prep of a new Kahr



I haven't recieved my CM9 yet, but should be here in the next couple of days. Ouestion I have several cleaning kits, and use them on my other guns, Will Hopps#9 solvent, Rem action spray cleaner, Rem Oil, and Hopps gun oil be acceptable for cleaning my New CM9?

I will follow your other prep suggestions also. Just did not want to have to
go buy more cleaning and lubing products if mine will be fine to use.
Carl

[jocko]

sure ur ok with what you have. use what u have, not a big deal, just getting the gun cleaned andlubed is the most important. enjoy the cm9,k that gun is just amazing..

[SuperGlide]

I read through this thread and wondered if the carb cleaner I have will work. It's made by SuperTech (bought it at Wal*Mart) and says on the can "contains no methylene chloride." Elsewhere, it says it contains toluene, methanol and acetone. Any thoughts?

[zhills]

sure ur ok with what you have. use what u have, not a big deal, just getting the gun cleaned andlubed is the most important. enjoy the cm9,k that gun is just amazing..

How come you do not lube the striker channel after cleanining with the
3M #08880? I usually do the same with my LCP but put a shot of rem oil
very small shot I might add in the top hole over the striker, I haven't had any problems. Should I not lube the LCP striker channel also?

Would emmery paper work in place of the 600 grit sandpaper when working on the magazine?

[k421incubus]

Followed this prep with my new CM9 this weekend, and it shot 200 rounds flawlessly. Thanks for the great info!

[Bawanna]

How come you do not lube the striker channel after cleanining with the
3M #08880? I usually do the same with my LCP but put a shot of rem oil
very small shot I might add in the top hole over the striker, I haven't had any problems. Should I not lube the LCP striker channel also?

Would emmery paper work in place of the 600 grit sandpaper when working on the magazine?

The oil attracts dirt, lint, and stuff you don't want in there. Everything is stainless so it isn't gonna rust. If your putting it in a safe for an extended period of time I might squirt some oil in there. Then clean it out when you bring it back out.

Emery paper should work just fine and dandy on them magazines.

[zhills]

The oil attracts dirt, lint, and stuff you don't want in there. Everything is stainless so it isn't gonna rust. If your putting it in a safe for an extended period of time I might squirt some oil in there. Then clean it out when you bring it back out.

Emery paper should work just fine and dandy on them magazines.


Thanks, I Know I have some emery paper in the shed.

Is there a parts explodeded view of the PM9, or CM9 here on KahrTalk?

[Bawanna]

http://www.kahr.com/Pistols/Kahr-PM9.asp

Try this, if you click on the diagram picture it show up above larger and you can magnify with your cursor. I cursed alot trying to find it I'll tell you that.

Don't lose any sleep over the sandpaper on the feed lips deal. It most likely will work just fine as it comes. If you have an issue you can always drop back measure off 25 yards and do a little sanding.

[Scoundrel]

I recently purchased a CM9. It's all cleaned and broken in. I am having a magazine problem.

I have had no issues whatsoever with the 6-round magazine that came with it. I also ordered a 7-round magazine made by Kahr.

I was having a problem with nose-dive jams when there were three or four bullets left in it. I saw the summary by Jocko and found the detailed instructions with photos by GB6491. I performed the test and found that the follower was getting hung up on the magazine release latch. I shaved and sanded it until it no longer got hung up. Then I took the CM9 back to the range for testing.

Shaving the magazine definitely made a difference. However, it was not what I expected. What happens NOW is that with one round in the chamber and a full 7-round magazine, it jams when I have fired the one in the chamber. The very first round in the magazine jams with a nose-dive. It does this perhaps 6 out of 10 times. I did a lot of load, fire, jam, clear jam, reload, fire, etc. testing. Once it gets past the first round, it never jams at the 3rd or 4th round anymore.

Then something unexpected happened. I ran out of the Federal Champion 115 Grain 9mm Luger ammo I was using, and I bought a box of Sellier & Bellot from the range. Those did not jam. I went through two boxes to be sure. No jams at all with the S&B ammo.

I know that the Federal is not very quality-consistent. Every single bullet has dimples or scratches on it, some worse than others. However, I have had zero jams in the 6-round magazine out of maybe 200 rounds that I have put through it.

The 7-round magazine seems very touchy, and while I intend to do some more testing with the S&B, I'm still not very comfortable with the magazine. I have other 9mm pistols that will eat the Federal ammo all day without issue, and the idea of a jam in my CM9 makes me less inclined to rely on it.

I ordered a Wolff +5% spring for the 7-round magazine, but I am not convinced that 5% extra power is what is needed.

I ordered a couple more 6-round magazines from Kahr, and I will test them with both ammo brands thoroughly. I will also test the 7-round magazine with the Wolff spring when it arrives.

I am not dead set on having a 7-round magazine. If the additional 6-round magazines also don't have any problems, but the 7-round continues to have this problem, should I just throw it out and call it good, or do you have any suggestions on what else might be happening?

I asked my local gunsmith about it, and his answer was: Try a Wolff spring, and it it still happens, throw it away.

[jocko]

your magazine comes with wolff springs. indeed the 7 round magazine in the PM9 and cm9 guns for some give fits. I would just call kahr and ask them if u can send back this 7 round mag in exchange for a 6 round mag. They have done this for alot of people. Tell them what is happening and that u just don't trust the magazine. Odd that the S & B ammo worked 0k and the federal did not.

what u can do is order from wolffs the 7 round 5% more strength magazine spring and see if that does not correct the issue. For some it has been the way a person grips the 7 round magazine being it sticks out and it might be giving that magazine a different angle for that first round. I am at a total loss to tell u exactly what is the issue, other than the 7 round magazines do give some owners fits.

You bought a cm9 becuase if is very concealable, so just get another 6 round magazine and either use the 7 round for range use or send it back for exchange. Shooting a 7 round extended magazine gives u a different feel/hold than the flush 6 round mag, so for me I practice the way I ultimately carry..

gunsprings.com

[Scoundrel]

Thanks. I have sent an e-mail to Kahr about it.

[Rainman48314]

I have both Glock and Kahr (3 now) and don't participate in the ford vs. chevy style debate. I just want my guns to be clean and last long. I haven't purchased a can of gun scrubber or similar products in 10 years. I clean the polymer with a damp cloth or qtips, usually no solvent required. If I need a solvent I use 70% diluted isopropyl alcohol, but that is usually only used on metal parts. Regular gun oil on a qtip also seems to break up most gunk reasonably well.
What is that isoprpyl alcohol diluted with..or do you buy it labeled that way? I use 99% to wipe griping areas as I tend to get oil all over everything.

[Rainman48314]

Thanks. I have sent an e-mail to Kahr about it.I get the sense that there are a set of known problems with a percentage of Kahrs. There are great stickies that almost require you to be a 'smith.

I see you emailed them. Do they listen? Surely they must understand that there are many owners who do not work in machine shops or have calipers, stones, files, dremels at home.

I am looking for a finished product, not a kit or a beta test project when I spend $600-800 on a SD gun. I have great respect for those who choose to do their own repairs and modifications. I would respect Kahr more if they fixed issues from years earlier.

[Denny M]

+1 on everything Rainman said.

[jocko]

I get the sense that there are a set of known problems with a percentage of Kahrs. There are great stickies that almost require you to be a 'smith.

I see you emailed them. Do they listen? Surely they must understand that there are many owners who do not work in machine shops or have calipers, stones, files, dremels at home.

I am looking for a finished product, not a kit or a beta test project when I spend $600-800 on a SD gun. I have great respect for those who choose to do there own repairs and modifications. I would respect Kahr more if they fixed issues from years earlier.

I think ur stretching some of these "known problems". The stickys are there to help, certainly in 90% or more none are needed...

[8th ID]

jocko--

Thanks for the info here! I did take my CM9 out before reading here. I had no problems at all in 120 rounds. But I will be doing some more 'prep' before taking it out again.

Like you said, great info for a Kahr or any other semi-auto.

Thanks,
8th ID

[jocko]

most all kahrs are good to go out of the box, but we have also seen some that come tothe owner with some "crapola" in the striker channel and then it causes issues down the road or sometimes from the git go. Knopw where and how to clean that striker channel has been a big help to most all owners. the factory's don''t clean and relube guns before boxing and shipping, so one should at leat look over the entire gun and make sure it is cleaned, lubed properly and then just shoot it like u stole it.

The kahr lube chart is in my opinion the best I have ever seen... Those damn CM9 are just being so damn good out of the box that in all my years of seeng new products cominbg out, nothing has been as flawless as the cm9. And every owner that I have talked to has told me that after a few hundred rounds the gun just feels totally diffgerent. They just get smoother as things mate up in the gun. The trigger system as smooth as it is gets even better with really no special care other than rounds down range. Trust me, YOU CAN'T SHOOT OUT A KAHR..

[Rainman48314]

I think ur stretching some of these "known problems". The stickys are there to help, certainly in 90% or more none are needed...Jocko, I wrote my comments after reading page after page of repairs and modifications Greg aka GB6491 was forced to do to get a reliable Kahr 45. While his efforts are laudable, and his photos superb, a Self Defense gun isn't an erector set. Its not a kit car, its not an assemble your self Computer. I don't think 90% is a high enough standard when competitors do better.

[jocko]

u might be right, if u really feel that strong, why do u even own a kahr??? Are u stating the other companies don't have issues??. I have owned 3 kel tec , had to send them back atotal of 17 tmes before I could get them running good enough to sell them, and I think I know alittle aobut making some guns work "if it is minor". Owned one Ruger lcp, that had to go back to get right, and Ruger makes good stuff, but are u going to tell me that their total recall of their SR9 and over 50K of the lcp is nothing major??? Every one of those Ruger owners back then was BETA testers as far as I was cncerned... Still over on the elsi pea forum on the main page is two reports of defective lcp, one 3 weeks old with broken peaces, another with a photo showing a cracked polymer frame. None of these guns are fool proof. Ruger turns one out ever 52 seconds, so sh-t is gonna happen, never good when it happens to you the owner but Ruger will take care of it.. Mine now fixed I will swear by it but before it was fixed I swore at it..

What GB did to his gun, he did to HIS GUN, most of the kahr 45 required nothing at all. Ur always gonna find the negatives on a gun forum, that is where pepole come with issues. Kahr is not exempt from that as u well know. Greg could have also done what most would have done with a gun that gives issues. He could have sent it back but he choose to do it his way. Some people can make things work without sending them back but that is their option also. I am not alibing for kahr, I have always felt the P380 is a gun with issues. It is getting better but IMO it is not there yet, but again kahr has over 20K of them out there and we read of a few dozen on this forum with issues so we assume they are all like that.

I have said this before, if u get a kahr with issues and you are not comfortable with their fix or have lost faith in it, then peddle it and find the gun that pleases u,. as there are to many other good guns out there to.. But I don't put my head in the sand thinking that the next brand is going to be better. What we expect is sometimes not what we get.

And to me anyways it does seem the bigger the framed gun the better they seem to work. Kahr K9 comes to mind..

oops: forgot had to send my G19 back once for slide lock issues.Today one of my best guns for accuracy.

[Rainman48314]

u might be right, if u really feel that strong, why do u even own a kahr??? Are u stating the other companies don't have issues??. I have owned 3 kel tec , had to send them back atotal of 17 tmes before I could get them running good enough to sell them, and I think I know alittle aobut making some guns work "if it is minor". Owned one Ruger lcp, that had to go back to get right, and Ruger makes good stuff, but are u going to tell me that their total recall of their SR9 and over 50K of the lcp is nothing major??? Every one of those Ruger owners back then was BETA testers as far as I was cncerned... Still over on the elsi pea forum on the main page is two reports of defective lcp, one 3 weeks old with broken peaces, another with a photo showing a cracked polymer frame. None of these guns are fool proof. Ruger turns one out ever 52 seconds, so sh-t is gonna happen, never good when it happens to you the owner but Ruger will take care of it.. Mine now fixed I will swear by it but before it was fixed I swore at it..

What GB did to his gun, he did to HIS GUN, most of the kahr 45 required nothing at all. Ur always gonna find the negatives on a gun forum, that is where pepole come with issues. Kahr is not exempt from that as u well know. Greg could have also done what most would have done with a gun that gives issues. He could have sent it back but he choose to do it his way. Some people can make things work without sending them back but that is their option also. I am not alibing for kahr, I have always felt the P380 is a gun with issues. It is getting better but IMO it is not there yet, but again kahr has over 20K of them out there and we read of a few dozen on this forum with issues so we assume they are all like that.

I have said this before, if u get a kahr with issues and you are not comfortable with their fix or have lost faith in it, then peddle it and find the gun that pleases u,. as there are to many other good guns out there to.. But I don't put my head in the sand thinking that the next brand is going to be better. What we expect is sometimes not what we get.

And to me anyways it does seem the bigger the framed gun the better they seem to work. Kahr K9 comes to mind..

oops: forgot had to send my G19 back once for slide lock issues.Today one of my best guns for accuracy.Thanks for the response, Jocko. Please don't feel you have to be Kahr's spokesmen. I wish an occasional Kahr employee would chime in on our threads.

I own a Kahr because 1). I could not find a Kimber Solo. Wait lists here are 20 men long. 2.) It met most of my criteria on paper. 3). A friend in another state owns one and strongly recommended it to me.

Why I would only cautiously recommend one to a friend can best be seen in the comparison I did in "My Kahr PM9 versus my Ruger LC9" thread. I'll add that if the choice is between a CM9 and the LC9, its a horserace with Kahr by a nose.

I understand that Greg wrote about his gun and that others could ignore the issues in their gun or send it off to Kahr. You must also have seen the tremendous interest. I think it became a sticky for good reasons.

We can all have valid opinions about guns we own. The Ruger I owned, an SR9c, was a great purchase. Ditto for the Lc9. My Kahr..hard work right out of the box. Am I done with issues? Not quite yet. Am I hopeful, sure. The biggest puzzle is that the Kahr design is very mature, yet there are nagging issues. Its like (dripping) water torture. It suggests Kahr doesn't listen to their customers as voiced in this forum. I would love to be wrong.

addendum:

I would never buy a KelTec.

Ruger's problems are a great example for this discussion.

1. They came very early in the product life cycle
2. They were fixed in the design.

With Kahr, the PM9 was introduced in 2003. A full 8 years later, the problems are still there too often.

[jocko]

RAINMAN; found this on the kimber site. I didn'tknow this , maybeu did.


Firearm Zealot


Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,408 Notes from doing some research.

-The first models out for sale had a couple bugs but they were apparently worked out.

-Its striker fired with a smooth 7lb trigger.

-Due to the small short slide, it was built heavier for its size. You have to shoot at least 124 grain premium loads through it for it to cycle properly. 115 grain loads will not be powerful enough to cycle the slide properly and it will malfunction.

-It like all the other stuff Kimber makes needs a break in period.

-Its a bit bigger than a Ruger LCP but smaller than a Kimber Ultra Carry compact 3" 1911 sized frame.

-MSRP for both the all stainless model and the two tone aluminum model is $725 making it an expensive gun that is expensive to shoot (regarding it needs premium ammo to work right plus the break in)


I did notice line #4 is about no differentr than any kahrs. BREAK IN NEEDED
__________________

[Rainman48314]

RAINMAN; found this on the kimber site. I didn'tknow this , maybeu did.


Firearm Zealot


Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,408 Notes from doing some research.

-The first models out for sale had a couple bugs but they were apparently worked out.

-Its striker fired with a smooth 7lb trigger.

-Due to the small short slide, it was built heavier for its size. You have to shoot at least 124 grain premium loads through it for it to cycle properly. 115 grain loads will not be powerful enough to cycle the slide properly and it will malfunction.

-It like all the other stuff Kimber makes needs a break in period.

-Its a bit bigger than a Ruger LCP but smaller than a Kimber Ultra Carry compact 3" 1911 sized frame.

-MSRP for both the all stainless model and the two tone aluminum model is $725 making it an expensive gun that is expensive to shoot (regarding it needs premium ammo to work right plus the break in)


I did notice line #4 is about no differentr than any kahrs. BREAK IN NEEDED
__________________I've read this and much, much more. The Kimber breakin-in is 24 (twenty-four rounds). It possibly will have an issue before the year is out, that comes with it being year number 1. I would find it inexcusable for the issue(s) to remain after eight years of production a la PM9.

Of the several range reports and magazine shooting reviews I have read, everyone was able to use standard 115 gr FMJ to practice.

List price is now $744 but once the first few are sold, it should level at a street price of $599-639

[jocko]

can u elaborate on the 8 years PM9 issues..

after reading old lincoln post of gun (basically 1911: and issues. iot did show the

kimber with 64 problematic owners out of 148 which is an amazing 43%. Why do u think this solo is going to be any less problematic?. Just asking for you seem to want to show the PM9 yet as a problem gun,,, and today it is a fine gun, sure issues will show up, but we sure haven't read about them like we did a few years back. They today seem to be running really great.

I just seem to read a sense of negativity in your thoughts on kahrs, and I guess my question which has been unanswered, is why own such a gun if u feel so strong about it negatives. I am not knocking the kimber solo, as it is way way to early to say anything positive or negative about it but if it followes the percentages of the 1911's which is definitely kimbers bread and butter gun then now does one defend the solo..

Just askin...

Probably well over 250K++ of PM'9 out on the market, I just think ur way over exagerating kahrs PM9 issues, way over, course just my opinion and I am not a kahr spokesman. I am a kahr owner of 3 of which 2 have been super,one starting to get much better. I have never really beat the tom tom with kahrs. I have stated many times, give any gun u like one shot back to the factory to get right, after that if not right peddle it and move on. I think if u wanna research that comment I have stated that many times...

[Rainman48314]

can u elaborate on the 8 years PM9 issues..

after reading old lincoln post of gun (basically 1911: and issues. iot did show the

kimber with 64 problematic owners out of 148 which is an amazing 43%. Why do u think this solo is going to be any less problematic?. Just asking for you seem to want to show the PM9 yet as a problem gun,,, and today it is a fine gun, sure issues will show up, but we sure haven't read about them like we did a few years back. They today seem to be running really great.

I just seem to read a sense of negativity in your thoughts on kahrs, and I guess my question which has been unanswered, is why own such a gun if u feel so strong about it negatives. I am not knocking the kimber solo, as it is way way to early to say anything positive or negative about it but if it followes the percentages of the 1911's which is definitely kimbers bread and butter gun then now does one defend the solo..

Just askin...

Probably well over 250K++ of PM'9 out on the market, I just think ur way over exagerating kahrs PM9 issues, way over, course just my opinion and I am not a kahr spokesman. I am a kahr owner of 3 of which 2 have been super,one starting to get much better. I have never really beat the tom tom with kahrs. I have stated many times, give any gun u like one shot back to the factory to get right, after that if not right peddle it and move on. I think if u wanna research that comment I have stated that many times...I think we Kahr owners need to push Kahr so that guns made in 2011 are better than the same gun made in 2003.

The ongoing problems are the mags and fit of the slide stop.

In the thread asking owners what they think Kahr should change, 2 of 3 said Quality Control.

IF you were the Manager of QC at a Arms Company selling SD/Carry guns, would you let any out the door with "crappola in the striker channel" or a mag that wouldn't drop?

I'll comment more on the Kimber after I own one. I can tell you that they consider a SOLO (not 1911s) broken-in after just 24 premium rounds.

[jocko]

good for kimber. 24 rounds is fine with me They can say 5 for al lI care, as could Kahr. Kahr is just being realistic. Most kimber owners seem to think their guns need a good break in.. fit of the slide stop has not been an 8 year issue. It isn't today but it has happened. I had 3 replaced on my Para carry 9, . If there is one big issue with 1911's it is in the slide stop area. very common knowledge. It just happens. Might be lack of quality control but certainly not the end of the world. Just IMO kinda hard to brag about kimbers quality control when that one survery showed a 43% return rate of kimbers. I hope ur solo when u get it works perfect, again it is not an indication that "kimber" solo's are right on the money, just that yours is, or might be. If ur referring the some PM9 mags not dropping and u consider that a problem, IMO yuor "petty": picking.

My two cents and I can see u want to argue as much as I seem to what to also. so for me I'm done with this thread, . Just very strange that one would own a kahr and yet hammer it. when that nice survery of guns shows by ol lincoln showed every brand with percentages that no gun maker should be proud of (especially kimber) but is just a fact of gun makers products. I haven't seen the perfect gun yet ..But yet u seem to want to stand in line for a gun that is made by a company showing a 43% rate of return and this being kimbers first entry into the striker world and small ass guns. Ur braver than I am..good luck.

not the first tme I have heard of kimber owners saying the solo must have 124 grain premium ammo through it.It was so stated on the elsie pea forum a few times. Certainly if the manul states premium ammo then one doesn't have alot of leg to stand on with over the counter 115 grain ammo acting up. About like rohrbaugh, They tell you what to shoot in the gun, use anything else and it is ur problem.If one knows that going into the buy then it is the owners fault if he bit-hs afterwards.


quote:In the thread asking owners what they think Kahr should change, 2 of 3 said Quality Control

QC is going to be brought up in any good questionaire for any brand gun. that just kinda makes sense. Every mfg has some areas that need cleaned up or we would not be seeing 43% kimber return rate from such a high dollar precision gun maker. My audi as much as I love the car certainly in some areas lacks QC as far as I am concerned. again I am still waiting on the perfect car. Oh thats right were talking about guns and not cars. QC is different?????

[Rainman48314]

good for kimber. 24 rounds is fine with me They can say 5 for al lI care, as could Kahr. Kahr is just being realistic. Most kimber owners seem to think their guns need a good break in.. fit of the slide stop has not been an 8 year issue. It isn't today but it has happened. I had 3 replaced on my Para carry 9, . If there is one big issue with 1911's it is in the slide stop area. very common knowledge. It just happens. Might be lack of quality control but certainly not the end of the world. Just IMO kinda hard to brag about kimbers quality control when that one survery showed a 43% return rate of kimbers. I hope ur solo when u get it works perfect, again it is not an indication that "kimber" solo's are right on the money, just that yours is, or might be. If ur referring the some PM9 mags not dropping and u consider that a problem, IMO yuor "petty": picking.

My two cents and I can see u want to argue as much as I seem to what to also. so for me I'm done with this thread, . Just very strange that one would own a kahr and yet hammer it. when that nice survery of guns shows by ol lincoln showed every brand with percentages that no gun maker should be proud of (especially kimber) but is just a fact of gun makers products. I haven't seen the perfect gun yet ..But yet u seem to want to stand in line for a gun that is made by a company showing a 43% rate of return and this being kimbers first entry into the striker world and small ass guns. Ur braver than I am..good luck.

not the first tme I have heard of kimber owners saying the solo must have 124 grain premium ammo through it.It was so stated on the elsie pea forum a few times. Certainly if the manul states premium ammo then one doesn't have alot of leg to stand on with over the counter 115 grain ammo acting up. About like rohrbaugh, They tell you what to shoot in the gun, use anything else and it is ur problem.If one knows that going into the buy then it is the owners fault if he bit-hs afterwards.


quote:In the thread asking owners what they think Kahr should change, 2 of 3 said Quality Control

QC is going to be brought up in any good questionaire for any brand gun. that just kinda makes sense. Every mfg has some areas that need cleaned up or we would not be seeing 43% kimber return rate from such a high dollar precision gun maker. My audi as much as I love the car certainly in some areas lacks QC as far as I am concerned. again I am still waiting on the perfect car. Oh thats right were talking about guns and not cars. QC is different?????
Jocko, I'm not here to argue. You love your PM9, I like my PM9. Fair enough?

I have high expectations for expensive products and I will treat Kimber the same way, however, I can not compare a gun in its first year of production with one in its 8th year. I can't compare a Solo to anything until I have lived with it a month or so. The one Kimber I own is a Rimfire Target in .17 Mach 2, also a $700 gun which has been flawless in the first 250 rounds.

My final word, so you may have the last if you choose, is that any survey with a self selected audience has to be suspect. To do it right, you must define what constitutes a "problem" and then sample from all gun sales, not just those volunteering on an internet forum.

Have a good weekend.

[Iron Worker]

Here are some helpful suggestions to set your new kahr up before heading to the range as compiled by Jocko, with the help of the forum members.



Proper prep of a new Kahr


Here are some helpful suggestions to set your new Kahr up before heading to the range, as compiled by Jocko, with the help of the forum members.

#1. Read and then reread your owner’s manual. There are some real MUST DO's in there that if you don't you will have issues.


#2. Clean your new gun; don’t assume Kahr did it. They don't and there could be crud in places where it should not be. Take that slide off and look for the little hole in the bottom of the slide. That is your striker channel clean out hole. Insert your spray cleaner nozzle in there and spray away. Fluids will come out both ends.

Now, with one finger, pull back on the striker at the back of the slide and continue to spray in that hole and also spray clean from that breech hole also. You have now cleaned that striker channel without disassembly. DO NOT OIL THE STRIKER CHANNEL. Refer to the Kahr Tech section. The 2nd sticky down is KAHR LUBE DIAGRAM. Point #9 shows the clean out hole and this is the best lube chart for any semi auto to.


#3. Grease the slide rails, or if you prefer a particular gun oil, fine. Just lube the slide, or, better yet, go to the Kahr Tech section and hit on the Kahr lube section. This will save a lot of explaining. If you have a Dremel, I would suggest a good polishing of the already smooth feed ramp, and inside the chamber also. You can't hurt anything with a nice polish job. The lube chart is the 2nd sticky on this KAHR TECH thread. It is simply the best.


#4. Now, with an empty gun and no magazine, rack the slide about 500 times as fast as you can. This helps break-in the pistol without shooting.


#5 Take your magazines apart and recheck to see that they are properly put together right, too. Then, if you have some 600+ grit auto sand paper, just roll it up like a pencil and polish the under side of the feed lips on your magazines. Do not oil the magazines, wipe with a silicone cloth at most.


#6 To check to see if you have any issues with the slide lock lever hitting the rounds in the magazine, take the slide off and insert the slide lock lever, then reinsert a loaded magazine. Check to see if the top round is hitting the slide lock lever and moving it upward. That is a NO-NO.


#7. Break in the gun with FMJ ammo. Forget about the defense stuff until it is running right. Practice close, stay 7 yards and under, get a good grip on the gun, and watch your thumb to see that it is not accidentally hitting the slide lock lever and causing premature slide lock-back. Inadvertently hitting the slide lock lever while shooting is a known cause of premature slide-lock back.


#8. Don't worry about the accuracy of the pistol until you have the gun running reliably with both types of ammo. Sometimes the 200 round break-in is necessary, but most of the time, if the gun is properly prepped, it is not.


#9. Be aware that you can limp wrist these little guns far easier than the bigger ones. Keep your shooting at 7 yards and under.


#10 Kahrs have a long but totally smooth trigger system. GET USED TO IT. The more rounds down range the better your groups will be to. Remember you and the gun have to mate up correctly for all things to work right. A very good test of your shooting skills with a Kahr is to buy a half dozen Snap Caps and throw them in with 30 rounds of FMJ range fodder. Let someone load your magazine for you, so you don't know if any Snap Caps are in that magazine. I can assure you, it will show your shooting errors BIG TIME.


#11. Use a good gun cleaner spray. Gunscrubber is good stuff, but very expensive. I will tell you what works for me and harms nothing on the gun, polymer included.

#12. If ur new gun gives some shooting issues, let another good shooter try your gun out, if he can duplicate your issues, then you can assume the issues are gun related and not shooter related. We call that eliminating the POSSABILITIES. Kahr can fix their guns but they cannot fix the SHOOTER.. Do not panic in the first 200 rounds of shooting your new kahr. Give the gun and the shooter both time and rounds down range for both to mate up properly. If u follow the above tips, your kahr will perform perfect, or for that matter any semi you own

Go to Napa and look for 3M high pressure NON-CHLORINATED brake cleaner. Part #08880, sells for about $2 a can, about 1/3 the cost of Gunscrubber. This is the most powerful spray cleaner coming out of a can that I have ever used. It cleans thoroughly dries fast. It will not harm your polymer Kahrs period.

I would suggest wearing rubber gloves or just use common sense. If it gets on your skin, it will dry your skin out, as this stuff takes the oil out of everything it comes in contact with. Gunscrubber will also be hard on your skin, so use common sense. This stuff will clean in places that you might think needs to be taken apart, but not on a Kahr. Everything is right there in front of you, just spray away, then re-oil where parts were originally oiled.


We will continue to update this section in hopes that later on down the road we can just direct a new owner to this thread and not have to keep repeating ourselves.

Good luck and just shoot it like you stole it, and many thanks to those who have contributed
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Information on the slide lock lever and the slide lock spring that should be helpful to all the Polymer kahr shooters... submitted by WYNTROUT

That slide stop spring shouldn't move. The screw is a T-5 Torx (In the P380) and needs tightening. Use the correct screwdriver and tighten the screw just until you feel resistance. Remember the screw is metal and the frame you're screwing it into is polymer... PLASTIC. Don't overtighten... you'll strip the screw and then you need a NEW FRAME. That little screw never actually tightens, so lightly snugged is best. Best thing is to not mess with that little screw at all. If you strip the threads out of the polymer frame, you have some options. Send it back to kahr and they will fix it somehow. OR take some super glue or finger nail polish and coat those threads on that little screw and reset it in the polymer fram. SNUGGED. andyou willbe good to go. This is a fix that will work.

The torx screw in the Polymer kahrs EXCEPT the P380 is a size T6 The P380 is a size 5 torx. obtainable at sears.. or harbor freight even.

When you insert the slide lock, have the release lever at about 4 o'clock and tilted to the right so that you get the pin just to the left of the spring and push it ASIDE, not bend it inward, as you insert the pin. When it's about halfway in (and going into the peanut-shaped hole on the barrel lug) orient the lever up to go through the cutout in the slide. The slide lock should click into place and the lever should rebound back up when you depress it. If the spring is secure, there should be downward pressure by the free end of the spring on the little shelf for it on the inside of the slide lock lever. This should stop all of your random early slide locks.

MAGAZINE FIX: some have reported that their 2nd or 3rd round tends to nose dive in their kahrs. Here is what is happeing, as the magazine follower is moving upward when it hits that area where about round 2 or 3 is still in the magazine, that follower is now in that magazine slot hole where the magazine button locks into it. That magazine button is actually stopping that follower from sliding past it without any hindrance. Now I can tell you the fix but if you will just go to the sticky by GB6491 on CW fixes, and scroll down, u will see in with a great photo tutorial how to fix this issues. It is a peace of cake. A quick test to see if u have this issue, is unload the magazine, take the floor plate off the magazine and pull the spring and follower out of the magazine. Now insert the empty magazine in the gun until it locks in place. Now with the spring still under the follower insert it slowly in the magazine upward and feel for a stoppage before the follower gets to the top of the magazine. If u feel stoppage, then go to GB 6491 sticky and see how easy this fix is. OR pull the follower out and sand the right side of the follower back alittle where it comes into view in that magazine slot opening, smooth it with 600+ grit paper and retest, It will not take much to get clearance.. I would even recommend one to pre-test this out before going to the range. will take 5 minutes to test out. Get ur gun prepped right and all the little tid bits of information that this forum can supply before that first range trip and it will be a big success... This magazine fix is usually the culprit in 90% of all NOSEDIVE ISSUES.

I hope this will get your P380 and any other Polymer kahr, back into action and stop those early slide locks.

Well its cool that you took the time and effort to type all this stuff up. I just got off the phone with KAHR and they will be sending me a pre paid box or what ever through Fed Ex. ..... Its just with my fat Sig Sauer P-229 its performed perfectly from the 1st shot till present 19 years later. If they fix it and works flawlessly great. I was going to buy the S&W M&P compact but it was just as fat as my Sig. This CW.40 wouldn't feed the first rnd or 5 and 4th releasing the slid lock or sling shoting it. I told the tech that he asked for cereal # . Now I have a authorization number and away it will go.

[Rainman48314]

I picked up my PM9 with night sights on 4/22. We are about 3 months into the ownership.

In week one, I would have rated it B-. I was unable to rack the slide, load the mag (needed a MagUla), drop a mag, or get 100% reliability. The grip felt like a cheese grater. I used gloves to shoot it. Somewhere along the way, my recoil assembly broke (lost the fitted nut). Only because I knew, or rather, trusted, that things would improve with break-in, was I able to rate it as high as B-

Fast forward to today. I give it an A. I am strictly rating my own gun and ignoring the few who have problems wirth theirs. Hopefuly, those issues disappear soon.

It took about 75-100 rounds for me to be comfortable with the grip, after I added a QwikGrip, the gun became a joy to handle. After about 250 rounds, I was getting 100% reliability with FMJ and JHP ammo. I have shot both 115 gr and 124 gr. I prefer the 115 gr for my SD carry ammo. It is Federal Hi-Shok 9BP which comes in boxes of 50 for only $16.95 plus shipping.

I am able to chamber a round by racking the slide without using the slide stop lever to release the slide. My 6 round mag drops freely, the 7 rounder less so but I haven't used it much. I have gotten familiar with the trigger and gained accuracy in the last 60 days. I have had a chance to compare it to a Ruger LC9 and the Ruger falls short, but only in one area, the trigger. I called it longer than War and Peace.

I have tried several holsters and settled on a Comp-Tac Minotaur MTAC. I got it in Chestnut and my Saturday order ARRIVED today. I have holsters that work pretty well, but none are as professionally finished and NO ONE deliver as fast.

Looks like the PM9 is now my EDC. Hope you newer owners hang in long enough to see how sweet this gun can be once its broken-in. I have a total of 350-400 through mine as of today.

[Jackalope33b]

The "Proper prep of a new kahr" thread worked for me. Had a "few" issues at first. Now my baby purrrrrrrs.. Reading alot of the issues that guys were having on here had me worried. But now Im happy. Take your time, have patience, keep your gun wet like you like your woman, and you should be good to go :)

[Husky44]

Since this isn't a locked thread, I'll add my lesson learned here as well. When performing step 6, make sure you understand the issue with re-inserting the slide lock lever in relation to the spring. If you're going in sequence here, you might not have read the section on reassembly, or watched the video yet. WATCH THE VIDEO BEFORE YOU PUT THE SLIDE LOCK IN!!!! It's very easy to screw this up in step 6, where you're inserting the slide lock without the slide installed on the frame. You will bend the spring and your gun won't cycle properly!

[medic579]

Here's mine on it's first cleaning before even shooting it.

[Bawanna]

Beautiful. Nice orderly fashion. I gotta know, what is that round thing in the lower right corner. Like a fold up screwdriver maybe. Can't quite make it out. Eye strain from looking for Iiiiiiiiiiiiiitts.

[medic579]

That's a CRKT Crimson Trace Range Bag tool. http://www.crkt.com/8970

[medic579]

Its made specifically gor tge laser site it has two Allen wrenches in it.

[wyntrout]

Watch the video for take down and assembly on kahr.com... very informative and especially on the tricky bits like inserting the slide lock pin! Links in the first Sticky here.

That tool could double as a throwing star!:D

Wynn:)

[medic579]

Yea I watched all vids on KAHR site and YouTube. Before i touched it.

[wyntrout]

Very good! I wish that everyone did that... less of the emergency HELP! requests. I keep going back there to find it for people just joining us. It's amazing the trouble that people get into because they didn't read the manual(me, too) or take advantage of all of the data and information available online. Most people are sitting in front of these amazing search engine/audio-visual contraptions called computers, with the whole world at their fingertips.

I use the dining table and have the whole thing covered with all kinds of stuff and lots of Bounty paper towels and magazine-fliers to keep the oil and stuff off the table. My wife really hates me using it as a shop table.:rolleyes:

Wynn:)

[medic579]

I use a tv tray just enough room. I gathered as much knowledge as poss before even though I have had many many diff weapons.

[Cokeman]

Its made specifically gor tge laser site it has two Allen wrenches in it.

What's it good for besides the laser?



Oh. Can we see the Bauer?

[medic579]

Just regular stuff knife blade, flat head and Phillips screwdriver. The Allen wrenches not sonmuch unless you have a laser.

[bitp]

3M brake cleaner from Napa - part #08880 is not available in my state. Napa had 3M High Power Brake Cleaner, # 08180 for $5.xx. "It contains no Chlorinated Solvents. NOTE: Cleaner may instantly damage paint and some plastics." Anyone using 08180?

[Scoundrel]

How about this stuff?

CRC 05101 QD Electronic Cleaner - 4.5 Wt Oz.
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

I can't find anything that says it is chlorinated. It's made for electronic parts so very unlikely it would damage plastic. I've used it on many different plastic parts (including the lower portion of my S&W M&P 15/22 with no ill effect.

The can says it contains Methanol 67-56-1, n-Hexane 110-54-3, Isohexane 107-83-5, Petroleum Distillate 64742-48-9 and Carbon Dioxide 124-38-9.

Sounds scary. Squirt the stuff in there to flush things out, shake off the excess which also gets the last little bit of stuff that didn't flush out, and then ten seconds later it's clean and dry. It smells like alcohol, not like chlorine. I don't use it often, only when the powder residue and stuff is way back in unreachable spots.

P.S. Says on can "Harmless to most plastics and paper tapes."

[jocko]

thatis good stuff, but IMO way to expensive for gun cleaning. The cans are small in size as u stated and very expensive. I do use it on my computer sh-t and my Harley electronics etc. I haveno doubt it will do the job. It also loacks the air pressure behind it, which IMO most of these other cleaning sprays seem to have alot of, which is a real plus for getting crapola out of some tight areas..

Pure cholorinated sparys I think today are a thing of the past. EPA is clamping down on alot of these really harsh spra6ys sold over the counter. I see spray cleaner now marked VOL (i THINK THAT IS RIGHT) which tells me this is an EPA regulation that all compani8es will sooner than later have on thier cans, what the hell it means I dont know. (yet). I am sure some membershere have some insight into what this new labeling says and means..

[Scoundrel]

thatis good stuff, but IMO way to expensive for gun cleaning.

It also loacks the air pressure behind it, which IMO most of these other cleaning sprays seem to have alot of, which is a real plus for getting crapola out of some tight areas..


I suppose that depends on how much/often you use it. I use mine very sparingly.

I kind of like how it sprays more fluid than air, because it rinses the stuff out rather than compressing it down into crevices.

I have been using it less and less since I learned to take it easy on the lube. I'm not getting the gunkus down in the areas I was using the spray to clean anymore, because I'm not putting lube down there to attract the residue. I don't think, for example, that the trigger pin really needs lubing.

[Rubb]

I see spray cleaner now marked VOL (i THINK THAT IS RIGHT) which tells me this is an EPA regulation that all compani8es will sooner than later have on thier cans, what the hell it means I dont know. (yet). I am sure some membershere have some insight into what this new labeling says and means..

Low VOC=Volatile organic compounds

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volatile_organic_compound

4502

[Bawanna]

I guess I better add Volatile Organic Compounds to the list of stuff trying to kill me. Never ends.

Darn near ready to just eat the cryptonite and rest.

Regards,
Superman

[jocko]

thanks RUBB;

yup bawanna , another obama intrustion in our lives. probably made by solyndra to.

[Bawanna]

Well you know me and trees. My slogan is Earth First, We'll log the rest of the planets later.

Low VOC's will definitely help me sleep better at night, that of course along with the medicinal Scotch I prescribed for myself since we got red light and school zone cameras.

I sense a break down coming. I'll keep ya posted.

I tried suicide by cop today, lord knows I got enough of em around here but none would play. Even drew my everyday bone handled damascus knife and made threats. No go. One offered to taze me but I'd rather be shot. Hate electricity.

[jocko]

I heard that the VOC was a brain child of Obama's super committee for cost savings and greenenergy saving. They said in 10 years it would save over 35 bucks. cost our committee and the accountants 18.5 million to come up with this new VOC ruling. Yup gonna save the world. I can see my 3 evergreens in my back yard growing already due to less VOC coming out of spray cans..

[OldLincoln]

But they say the ozone layer that protects earth from the sun is so thin it's tearing with holes on each of the poles. We obviously need more ozone, not less. Why aren't all the spray cans using ozone as propellant? Maybe we can kick start a few more volcanoes.

[jocko]

scoundrel. OK I'l bite, what the hell did u just say?????

[OldLincoln]

I read on the news links yesterday that now there's a bunch of ocean bacteria that have recently begun talking to each other and their bad breath is killing the earth. I'm not kidding, I just would never find it again now.

I think if you listen real carefully you might pick up on their conversation, "So a priest, rabbi and minister walk into this bar...." Couldn't help that one when I read the story.

[Bawanna]

Old spray cans didn't contain ozone. They contained bad stuff that kills ozone. That's why we stopped using them.

Global warming does not necessarily make every part of the globe warmer. It causes a chain of events that changes temperatures everywhere. Some places get warmer, others get colder. And it's bad. That is, if it's not a pile or horse manure concocted by scientists wanting more grant money to research it.

Al Gore promotes it, does that do anything to reinforce the horse manure factor.
I got enough to worry about with my VOC intake, I ain't sweating a little temperature change.

[JFootin]

Fellas, do we really want to be doing this to the most important sticky on the forum? Bawanna, time to do some cleanup just to keep the thread from unraveling at the end. BTW, each of you can delete your off subject posts and save Bawanna the trouble.

[Bawanna]

Good point. Do we just delete or move the chat someplace else. I can do whatever you all think is best.

[bitp]

#2. Clean your new gun;
...
#3. Grease the slide rails, or if you prefer a particular gun oil, fine. Just lube the slide, or, better yet, go to the Kahr Tech section and hit on the Kahr lube section.

If I clean the gun as suggested all oil will be stripped from all of the slide components and the components inside the lower. Following the Kahr lube chart I'll lubricate all of the important spots. However, what about all of the metal inside the lower and upper that is left without any lubricant? For example, the whole outer surface of the slide would be left stripped of all oils. Will this encourage rust? So what is everyone doing to all of the unnumbered spots on the lube chart?

[jocko]

bitp: It ain't rocket science. all the metal parts on a kahr to my knowledge are stainless, barrel is stainless and nickel plated. wipe metal outside parts down with a silicone cloth or a lightly oiled cloth. I seriously doubt if it is gonna rust. Indeed when u clean a gun ur purpose is TO CLEAN THE GUN, so yes oil/greaseis gonna come off when cleaning, the lube chart gives u the important points to lube etc, u can certainly figure out from that what else might needs some TLC. . It ain't gonna fall apart if u oil in places that maybe is not needed and over time u will figure that part out also. a good rule of thumb is when two metal parts interact with each other, LUBE.

If u read the kahr tech section and hit on the propper prepping thread, it will help u alot to..

[Rubb]

If I clean the gun as suggested all oil will be stripped from all of the slide components and the components inside the lower. Following the Kahr lube chart I'll lubricate all of the important spots. However, what about all of the metal inside the lower and upper that is left without any lubricant? For example, the whole outer surface of the slide would be left stripped of all oils. Will this encourage rust? So what is everyone doing to all of the unnumbered spots on the lube chart?

FWIW I only clean the striker channel with the brake cleaner, which ended up being the whole slide by default with the overspray/wash out. I only started this recently after 1250 rounds and it removed A LOT of crud.

The striker channel should be cleaned more often than that IMO.. and mine will be going forward. I never had an issue but, judging by the crud that came out of that striker channel I could’ve….not good! I’ve not shot the PM9 since cleaning the channel but, after I do I’m going to clean the striker channel again…and the slide by default. I look at it this way…clean is good and the brake cleaner makes short work of cleaning up that slide. I do give the slide a CLP wipe on/wipe off afterwards.

For the bore it’s Hoppes with a jag (bronze brush when needed) and patches followed up with lube and patched dry. For the lower it’s Breakfree CLP with patches and Qtips.

All lubrication is CLP as shown in the lube chart, which is exactly how I did it before I even knew the chart existed… because I have a few years of small gun experience under my belt.....:001_huh:

[markrb]

I don't understand exactly what it is I am supposed to be sanding from this statement. "Then, if you have some 600+ grit auto sand paper, just roll it up like a pencil and polish the under side of the feed lips on your magazines."
I am sure it obvious to many here, but I don't understand. Is there a picture that can point it out for me?

Thanks,
Mark

[kahrlover123]

About using non-chlorinated brake cleaner, I have talked to about 20 people (from friends and relatives to strangers), non of them uses that. Some of them even say that those stuffs will "eat your barrel" in the long run. Some of them heard of people use it but all of them do not recommend me to use it.

I agree that it would save us some money using it but if it's a good/expensive guns (like Kahr), I do not think it's wise to save some money on the stuff that will mess up your gun in the long run. I am about to use it but decide not to.

[jocko]

haven't seen an EATEN BARREL YET. certainly some people don'tknow what the hell they are talking about . Kahrlover123, u do what your 20 ill informed friends told u and u will be good to go. I choose to go with what I know is OK also .

I have said before one should use what ever he thinks is right for them. If it was harmful u wold hear it on this forum and WE HAVEN'T

[kahrlover123]

If brake cleaner will “eat your barrel”…why wouldn’t it “eat” drums and rotors :rolleyes:
Think about this:
1) How often do you use brake cleaner to clean your rotor or drum?
2) How often do you use brake cleaner to clean you barrel/gun?

It takes time for this stuff to "eat through"
You probably replace the drum (got eaten by the pads) before brake cleaner has a chance to do anything :D
Your drum/rotor is pretty cheap to replace, not the gun.

This is the way I look at it:
1) I go to the range once a week
2) I clean my gun once a week (sometimes twice depends on the time permitted) => a minimum 50 times a year
3) Personally, I do not want to see what brake cleaner will do to my barrel or gun but maybe it's just me.

[kahrlover123]

haven't seen an EATEN BARREL YET. certainly some people don'tknow what the hell they are talking about . Kahrlover123, u do what your 20 ill informed friends told u and u will be good to go. I choose to go with what I know is OK also .

I have said before one should use what ever he thinks is right for them. If it was harmful u wold hear it on this forum and WE HAVEN'T

If one or two say that, maybe he does not know what he's talking about. But this is a good number of people saying that so I take that into credibility.

Yes, you can do whatever you want and I can do whatever I want.

I just want to point out the possible negativity about brake cleaner on barrel/gun.

There is a REASON they have many GUN CLEANER products.
I even went as far as calling tech support to see what they say and they do NOT recommend using brake cleaner. People can verify that too.

[Bawanna]

If we want to discuss brake cleaner how about somebody start a new thread. We're walking pretty hard on the Proper Prep Thread and turning a useful bit of information into a very large unmanegable expose.

[kahrlover123]

Bawanna,

I'm not trying to discuss about brake cleaner in this thread. The proper prep steps are excellent guides for Kahr noobs. I just want to point out the negative side of brake cleaner (not recommended by Kahr and many other people I know) since it is praised in the first page about using it to replace other gun cleaner products.
Personally, I think it should be updated with "brake cleaner is not recommended by Kahr" in the sentence and we should be clear.

[Bawanna]

I'll see if I can get a definitive positive answer from somebody official.

Near as I can figure the non clorinated brake cleaner is exactly the same as Gun Scrubber. Don't matter to me one way or the other.

If I can get a confirmed official answer we'll add a disclaimer.

[jocko]

wel lI have no doubt that if u ask kahr they will say no brake cleaner, but also IMO they have no clue as to why they are saying that other than it is called brake cleaner and not gun scrubbber or some other gun cleaning spray. If u can sight me the chemical in brake cleaner (non cholorinated) that will eat through a barrel or a polymer grip then ur on to something. I guess from my stand point I will defend the brake clenaers that I have used for the past 5 years on my PM9 kahr and my G19 and to date my barrel is as shinny as the day I polished it and my polymer grip has not melted or disfigured. If u wanna argue the point, I will again say use what you prefer, prove your point and I will be the first to put in a disclaimer. Other than that the kahr prepp thread was not written by kahr but by forum members. I am also sure that kahr will say not to sand their followers either, but we know that in many instances alittle sanding there produces perfect results. They will also tell u not to file the slide stop lever on the insdie to get propper bullet clearance, but we know by doing this, IT WORKS Some have reported that one should not use Hoppe's #9 in cleaning nickel plated barrels and some have stated that kahr has said that to. I think last week I posted a direct message from kahr stating Hoppe's #9 is OK to use but to much will discolor the barrel. but no mention of it eating the nickel plating.

No doubt all thse gun companies are going to recommend using gun related cleaning products. Just makes sense to say that,but surely we know also that these gun cleaning sprays are not the brain child of a company like gun scrubber. Some chemical company that makes most all these cleaning products will put your name on a can if u buy enough of them.

as the Bawanna stated. it doesn't matter to me one way or the other.

so far to my knowledge NO ONE has reported negative results with non cholorinated brake cleaners, or CRC electronic cleaners.

arguing ur point then proving it to me is another thing. I have reported and will stand by it that these non cholornated spray brake cleaners will not harm polymer let along eat a damn barrel up, and hundreds on this forum have used it and none have reported that their barrel just dissappeared or that their polymer grip is now deformed. If anything these cleaners will take ALL the lubrication of where u spray it,course I always thought that was the reason for cleaning a gun to GET IT CLEAN. Now if u don't relube it, that is ur fault, certanly not the fault of the cleaner. It did its job..

For me there will be no disclaimer on my propper prepping thread. I wrote it, I correlated it and I can also delete it entirely.

[jocko]

If one or two say that, maybe he does not know what he's talking about. But this is a good number of people saying that so I take that into credibility.

Yes, you can do whatever you want and I can do whatever I want.

I just want to point out the possible negativity about brake cleaner on barrel/gun.

There is a REASON they have many GUN CLEANER products.
I even went as far as calling tech support to see what they say and they do NOT recommend using brake cleaner. People can verify that too.

IMO u just wasted a phone call, what did u expect them to say. They also don't recommend sanding followers to make them clear the mag release button, but we know it works. They also don't recommend fling off the inside nub on the slide lock lever to allow for some bullet clearance, but we know it works. They also don't recommend the bevelinbg of the kahr 45 feed bar on the bottom of the slides as Wyn has so found a cure for, and we know it works. They will also tell u that the P380 is a great gun and that they are not having any issues with it either but we know that is also not true. There is negativity as u stated. TOTALY UNPROVEN SO FAR..

[Bawanna]

Easy Jocko, deep breathing, in with the good, out with the bad, in with the good, out with the bad. Happy thoughts of Horse Heads floating over your hammock.
We'll not mess with your thread one way or the other and if you try to delete it I'll find my way to Indy and haul all these damn horse heads back and we can start over.
While I'm there I'll tip over your Harley just for spite.

Lord forgive me I'm know I'm going down for this one.

[jocko]

probably right.

[Richardh]

I think the key is to do what you think is best for your equipment.
I just used Napa non-clorinated brake cleaner last week and all is well!

[jocko]

well said!!

[bitp]

Post prep, after every range session how should we clean?

Clean and lube as suggested in the proper prep - spray down the striker channel clean out hole, spray the metal parts in the lower, etc., and then re-lubricate as directed in the Kahr Lube Diagram? I'm thinking that is ideal, but do you always do this or do you clean the barrel and use a solvent and just brush out the slide and lower and every X rounds do a complete spray down and striker channel cleaning?

[jocko]

other than a through barrel cleaning the ol snake is simply the best anf astest to clean up the barrel and also will clean up the feed ramp. I always take the mag out of the gun and come up to the barrel from the bottom, that way I know it is cleaning the feed ramp also. I love those snake tools.

I hve had a tilo snake for my side by side for years. Does a great job..

[wm36]

other than a through barrel cleaning the ol snake is simply the best anf astest to clean up the barrel and also will clean up the feed ramp. I always take the mag out of the gun and come up to the barrel from the bottom, that way I know it is cleaning the feed ramp also. I love those snake tools.

That's a great idea! I always just feed the snake through the ejection port (on my Beretta and now my CM9). Coming up through the mag well is a great idea to get the feed ramp too. I love what you can pick up on this forum!

[bitp]

How many rounds before you do the full cleaning and re-lubrication?

[Rainman48314]

How many rounds before you do the full cleaning and re-lubrication?I am weird in that I enjoy cleaning and knowing my gun is clean, especially since I carry more than one of mine in a rotation or as clothes dictate. I clean anything I shot more than 50 rounds through. I think there isn't any problem going 250 rounds. YMMV

[Scoundrel]

Not all that weird. If I've only fired a few rounds, I don't bother cleaning it, but after a range trip, regardless of how many shots were fired, I clean all of the ones I used. I won't break up a range session because I've reached 250 rounds, I'll fire everything I intended to fire and then go home to clean it out.

I can't remember having fired more than 300 rounds through the CM9 between cleanings, and it wasn't having any trouble firing at the end of it. It was pretty dirty though.

[Bawanna]

My PM45 when new following most of the prep in the tech section went 350 rounds in it's first session. Me and my son both gave it an exorcism and shot the devil out of it.

That was a rare thing and it hasn't happened since with any of my guns.

You can shoot a heck of alot of rounds and some seldom clean at all and they keep going but I clean every session and couple times a year for those that live in the box. Surely can't hurt and I when I have the time enjoy it too.

[deanp1964]

this is good chit

thanks

[kahrinca]

Here are some helpful suggestions to set your new kahr up before heading to the range as compiled by Jocko, with the help of the forum members.



Proper prep of a new Kahr


Here are some helpful suggestions to set your new Kahr up before heading to the range, as compiled by Jocko, with the help of the forum members.

...

#2. ....Take that slide off and look for the little hole in the bottom of the slide. That is your striker channel clean out hole. Insert your spray cleaner nozzle in there and spray away. Fluids will come out both ends.

Now, with one finger, pull back on the striker at the back of the slide and continue to spray in that hole and also spray clean from that breech hole also. You have now cleaned that striker channel without disassembly. DO NOT OIL THE STRIKER CHANNEL. Refer to the Kahr Tech section. The 2nd sticky down is KAHR LUBE DIAGRAM. Point #9 shows the clean out hole and this is the best lube chart for any semi auto to.

...




Jocko-
I have a CW9.

I'm really appreciative for the tip in #2, above, But I'm not quite sure what is meant in the second paragraph of it, starting with "Now, with one finger..."

I've just sprayed cleaner in the little round hole (described as the "striker channel clean out hole") and I've pressed down and forward on the striker channel safety and pushed the adjoining doodad and the little striker 'pin' goes out on the face, I guess, and I've continued to spray the hole that way, too. I then return the striker pin to be flush, which is the way it's supposed to remain for safety purposes, and according to the manual.

Question:But should I spray cleaner in the exposed compartment area containing the tiny spring also?

Question: And what is meant by spray clean in the 'breech hole' also?

regards,
kahrinca

[Bawanna]

Jocko-
I have a CW9.

I'm really appreciative for the tip in #2, above, But I'm not quite sure what is meant in the second paragraph of it, starting with "Now, with one finger..."

I've just sprayed cleaner in the little round hole (described as the "striker channel clean out hole") and I've pressed down and forward on the striker channel safety and pushed the adjoining doodad and the little striker 'pin' goes out on the face, I guess, and I've continued to spray the hole that way, too. I then return the striker pin to be flush, which is the way it's supposed to remain for safety purposes, and according to the manual.

Question:But should I spray cleaner in the exposed compartment area containing the tiny spring also?

Question: And what is meant by spray clean in the 'breech hole' also?

regards,
kahrinca

Jocko's out of country on assignment but to me it sounds like you did it. No need to spray on the spring part that you can see. By pushing down the striker drop safety and moving the striker forward your allowing the cleaner to go back and actually blow stuff out both ends, a more thorough clean job.

[getsome]

Hi kahrinca, Jocko is away for a couple of weeks (probably in jail, who knows) anyway I will try to answer your questions...First if you are not already wearing safety glasses when you do this put some on...That spray cleaner really hurts when you spray it in your eye..(ask me how I know that...:eek:)

Anyway since you found the clean out hole just put the nozzle in there and spray away...If you take your finger and push the striker towards the breach of the slide while spraying it will get into more area...When he said to spray into the breach hole that is the hole in the slide where the striker/firing pin comes out and hits the bullet primer when you pull the trigger...

Basically just spray the crap out of everything on the slide and really spray the clean out hole real good...Jocko likes the 3M brand of non chlorinated brake cleaner from NAPA because it has a very powerful spray pressure but rubber gloves should be worn and safety glasses...I use spray electronic cleaner because it doesn't smell so bad but use whatever you want so long as it's non chlorinated and plastic safe...

DO NOT OIL the striker hole and only use a drop of good gun oil in the areas detailed in the lube chart and you will be good to go...Good luck and welcome to Kahrtalk....

[getsome]

Dang it Bawanna, you got the drop on me again...When will I learn that you are the fastest gun in the west...:D

[kahrinca]

Thanks, Bawanna.

It would never have occurred to me about the 'striker channel cleanout hole' and spraying non-chlor brake cleaner in it, though I have used such in the past for degreasing and cleaning my other guns.

I would never do a detail strip of the slide, because once I downloaded the instructions, I thought, too easy for ME to mess up.

I've shot over 500-700 rounds in my CW9, and have had it for a couple of years-I just added a CT LaserGuard and that's renewed my interest in getting it up to snuff.

I am surprised that even the original lube chart, which I thought was a 'bit much' (but apparently not so) makes no mention of this apparently helpful cleaning tip...

There was quite a bit of dirt and grime that came out the holes last night when I did the spray cleaning procedure...

[kahrinca]

Getsome-
If I understand correctly, the 'breech hole' is that tiny hole where the striker pin protrudes ever so slightly when pushing down on the striker safety and manipulating the adjacent doodad (which extends or retracts the striker, correct)? It only extends a fraction of a bit and should be flush for safety prior to reassembly. I gather to not stick the spray cleaner in that hole, correct, but limit the nozzle to the round 'striker channel cleanout hole', correct?

On lubrication, I've decided to go to grease on various parts. I'm using Tetra gun grease on those areas that slide and are subject to pressure, and when I run out of that, I will go with the Auto Zone high temperature grease, which will last a lifetime. In the past, I used Mobil 1 only to lubricate this firearm.

[Bawanna]

Dang it Bawanna, you got the drop on me again...When will I learn that you are the fastest gun in the west...:D

Yeah but you said it way more better than I did. I just don't like to see folks wait mostly. I'm gonna try to hold back a little and coast some. You done real good, very eloquent.

[Bawanna]

Taking that slide down is really not that difficult. It can be a little intimidating the first time but it's really not tough. Most believe why do it if you don't have to. At the same time it's an excellent way to see what makes thing tick.

There's a thread in the tech section on how to take it down. I'd strongly recommend the little bent coat hanger tool. It's a life saver. If not you might need knee pads to crawl around and look for springs and parts.

If your in doubt work inside a big freezer bag, that way if anything jumps out it won't get away. It's really not tough and if you anticipate the spring and keep it blocked it's a walk in the part. One of those things that once you do it you'll think I was afraid of this simple thing.................

[kahrinca]

Thanks for such prompt responses, guys!

I was beginning to wonder about taking apart the entire slide but would like to avoid it-it now seems with this 'spray cleaning' of the 'striker hole' I can avoid it.

I'm the type who likes to avoid messing with the magazines, also. You know, if it ain't broke, etc. etc.

Indeed, I have done some of my own trigger jobs on S&W firearms, but I attribute that ability to the great Miculek videos. I do see the value in appreciating the 'Zen' in knowing how it all comes together but if there's an easy way such as the spray cleaning I ain't gonna get into messing with the slide internals.

I'm balancing the risks here. I am not in an occupation where I wear a gun all the time, if at all. I ain't gonna worry about it because it is highly unlikely I will ever have to even pull out the weapon, much less fire it. I do know and appreciate that if I knew the internals inside and out it would be more rewarding in owning such a firearm, which I enjoy at the range.

[rogerthedodger]

Just a heads up, I used CRC non-chlorinated brake cleaner on my P380 with LCI(loaded chamber indicater) and it took the red paint off the LCI.:eek: Use CRC contact cleaner instead, wont remove paint. It does not bother me without the red paint, but to someone else it might.
Roger

[getsome]

As a side note to the above....Brake cleaner is pretty potent stuff and I ruined the finish on the wood stock on a Ruger 10/22 rifle using it...Its ok for non painted metal and most plastics but not all, I also ruined the black plastic grips from a Walther PPK/S .380 I used to have, they melted and I had to buy new ones before I was able to sell it....I like the electronic cleaner better for that reason and the fact that it doesn't have any odor and is safe for wood finishes and all plastic and can be used inside without she who must be obeyed getting sore at me...

[kahrinca]

I'll make a note of getsome's remarks, above, but already bought some CRC Brakleen at Wal-Mart today.

I'll only use brake cleaner on metal, non-painted parts, and avoid spraying elsewhere-that's what I've done in the past, anyway.

But I did not know about the 'striker hole' method of cleaning the internals on the slide-that's a new one for me.

I have my CZ-75B in .40 back and will check the slide to see if there's one there, and any other autos that I have, too.

Electronic cleaner will lie in the future, unless I can return the Brakleen, but I did see one beside it but chose the Brakleen because it was cheaper. My 'bad'...Cheers,

[Cokeman]

As a side note to the above....Brake cleaner is pretty potent stuff and I ruined the finish on the wood stock on a Ruger 10/22 rifle using it...Its ok for non painted metal and most plastics but not all, I also ruined the black plastic grips from a Walther PPK/S .380 I used to have, they melted and I had to buy new ones before I was able to sell it....I like the electronic cleaner better for that reason and the fact that it doesn't have any odor and is safe for wood finishes and all plastic and can be used inside without she who must be obeyed getting sore at me...

I'm always afraid that it will take the white paint off of my sights or ruin my night sights. Has anyone had these problems?

[OldLincoln]

I used it liberally on my slide but inside. I'm sure some spray must have gotten on the stock front sight with no damage. I've doctored my front sight now making a Mickey Mouse Big Dot. Probably violated both the Big Dot Patent and the Mickey Mouse Trademark, but I can see the front sight now.

[rogerthedodger]

I decided to repaint my P380 LCI (retired, lots of time on my hands LOL), got some of the wifs fingernail polish, put it on a vice-grips for a test. CRC brake cleaner removed polish, CRC contact cleaner had no effect. I also use CRC contact cleaner on other pistols, Glock and Rugers, I'm afraid I will do damage w/brake cleaner. Just my $0.02.

[kahrinca]

I decided to repaint my P380 LCI (retired, lots of time on my hands LOL), got some of the wifs fingernail polish, put it on a vice-grips for a test. CRC brake cleaner removed polish, CRC contact cleaner had no effect. I also use CRC contact cleaner on other pistols, Glock and Rugers, I'm afraid I will do damage w/brake cleaner. Just my $0.02.

Well, I called Wal-Mart, and FWIW, I was told by the operator they would accept a return for a full refund if I have the receipt, or an exchange or credit on the CRC Brakleen. So, I think I'll make the drive and get some other things while there and I'm glad that I did not touch, use or mess with the bottle. It probably doesn't make a difference, but I'm just glad anyway. It was my poor choice.

I intend to exchange it for the CRC Contact Cleaner if they have it, or some other type of electronic cleaner.

From the post, roger, can I assume the spray force is strong enough to do an adequate job? You seem to be happy with it.

[Ressom]

I use this stuff I got at Wal-mart(CRC Brakleen - the 50 state formula) on the striker path of the slide. Stick the plastic tube in the little hole. Cleans out the area really good. No grease is left at all. Just as it should be. I occasionally use it on the trigger area and sear area of the frame and it doesn't hurt the plastic at all. It's good stuff.

http://http.cdnlayer.com/ec1images/225/products/8/8106452_021609l.jpg

[kahrinca]

Yes, that is the exact bottle that I returned to Wal-Mart. I'm not so concerned about damage to the gun-it's the smell and gases, even if outdoors, that I'd like to avoid.

Based upon prior posts, I ended up getting the CRC QD Electronic Cleaner instead.

This costs more but I don't want the hassle or smell of the brake cleaner, don't want it near my person, and I can apparently use it indoors without or with minimization of ill effect.

The other night, when I sprayed the striker hole, I used an old spray can of the cheapest Wal-Mart non-chlorinated brake cleaner that I had used previously. It is pretty strong, noxious, it seems.

It's all good for the purpose intended, I just don't know how safe-I have allergies, which can trigger mild asthma, and chronic bronchitis.

[rogerthedodger]

I use this stuff I got at Wal-mart(CRC Brakleen - the 50 state formula) on the striker path of the slide. Stick the plastic tube in the little hole. Cleans out the area really good. No grease is left at all. Just as it should be. I occasionally use it on the trigger area and sear area of the frame and it doesn't hurt the plastic at all. It's good stuff.

http://http.cdnlayer.com/ec1images/225/products/8/8106452_021609l.jpg
Yes, this is the stuff that removed the red paint on my LCI.
Roger

[rogerthedodger]

Well, I called Wal-Mart, and FWIW, I was told by the operator they would accept a return for a full refund if I have the receipt, or an exchange or credit on the CRC Brakleen. So, I think I'll make the drive and get some other things while there and I'm glad that I did not touch, use or mess with the bottle. It probably doesn't make a difference, but I'm just glad anyway. It was my poor choice.

I intend to exchange it for the CRC Contact Cleaner if they have it, or some other type of electronic cleaner.

From the post, roger, can I assume the spray force is strong enough to do an adequate job? You seem to be happy with it.
Yes, the CRC contact cleaner has the same pressure as the Brakecleen.
Roger

[kahrinca]

Thanks, Roger.

I used it tonight on all my semi-auto slides, whether they had the hole or not.

(I then oiled and greased the firearms and then added a thin coat of BreakFree CLP [to avoid rust and corrosion] as they are going back into storage in an unheated facility in SoCal).

CRC QD Electronic Cleaner certainly seems less toxic and offensive than the brake cleaner, but I found it less powerful a spray than the cheapo Wal-Mart offering of "Super-Tech" Brake Cleaner, the only one I've tried. I did return the Brakleen without using it.

However, the CRC QD Electronic Cleaner was adequate and did not make me feel ill. Thanks, again.

[skiflydive]

I heard that the VOC was a brain child of Obama's super committee for cost savings and greenenergy saving. They said in 10 years it would save over 35 bucks. cost our committee and the accountants 18.5 million to come up with this new VOC ruling. Yup gonna save the world. I can see my 3 evergreens in my back yard growing already due to less VOC coming out of spray cans..


Low VOC stuff has been around for a long time. It's making its way into more and more products as the Greenies gain momentum. The VOC's are the things that used to make products dry more quickly as I understand it and that made your liver jump up and say "Howdy." I always thought it was the stuff that made those chemicals smell so good.

[Hognutz]

I always thought that it was the Crown Royal that made my liver jump up and say "Howdy''. :p

[jocko]

crc brakclean is non cholorinated and works fine. i have used it also and find it as good as anything I have ever used. Priced right to..

[Hognutz]

Do you use the green can or the red? Don't really know the difference?

[skiflydive]

I sold a few million dollars worth of industrial spray lubricants and cleaners for a company I represented that will remain nameless, but who at one time sold scads of stuff to the military armories. Their stuff was at the time recommended by several gun manufacturers ( It's NOT WD-40). We also sold ultrasonic cleaners and the Michigan State Police and several municipal departments here in Michigan used to break down their firearms and buzz them in bulk brake cleaner in the ultrasonic tanks. OK...that's my credibility statement. :D

Brake cleaner, chlorinated or non, will not in itself harm metal. It is designed to remove grease and/or oil from brake drums and rotors and pads and shoes. It's very effective against grease and oil. It will not eat gun barrels. What it will definitely do is remove all the protective surface oils from metal allowing it to rust in very short order just from humidity (even some series of stainless) and especially from the acids in fingerprints. It will definitely soften paint and some soft plastic components. Try spraying a little in a styrofoam cup. I'm not sure what the "polymer" is that Kahr uses but polymer doesn't necessarily mean plastic per se. It might be worthwhile to soak a q-tip in some brake cleaner and dab it on an inconspicuous place on the frame to see if it has any effect but I'm not going to do it on mine. Brake cleaner is potent stuff.

Contact cleaner is designed to remove carbon and some VERY light surface oils. It's probably sufficient for cleaning out the striker channel because there "shouldn't" be any grease or oil in there. It "should" remove the carbonaceous deposits but may take several applications because it's NOT very powerful. The PD's sometimes used the contact cleaner I sold in their ultrasonic cleaners.

In my mind, if you're going to use brake cleaner in the striker channel hole go ahead but do that first and don't get it on any plastic or paint. It'll dry in short order but plan on a full blown re-lube after you're done with it because it WILL remove any grease or oil it gets on by evaporating it as it dries. If you spray a little on your fingerprints you'll notice they turn sort of white and powdery looking because it removes all the oil from the surface of your skin.

As always, it's your pistol, you do what you think is correct. Your mileage may vary.

[jocko]

Do you use the green can or the red? Don't really know the difference?

seen the green can in wal mart this week, so up until then it was the red can, but I swee the green can says no VOL or what ever. Have no idea WTf that even means and for $2.97 a can at wal mart, I will start buying it. Non cholornated is what must be on any spray cleaner I buy, then price is next..

[jocko]

Humm< I thought that was what "cleaners" were supposed to do CLEAN and to me that means take all the oil, grime, grease out of my gun. If not it is not cleaning but merely surface cleaning at best. Post lubing is a must with any good cleaning, I would think that would be a given. These non cholor8inated spray cleaners won't bother the polymer in guns, been using it on my glock, Smith and kahrs for years, just not gonna happen. Not sure a styrafoam cup is in the same leaque as the polymer in guns. But if one is in doubt pre test it for peace of mind. Cholorinated can harm polymer. Not even sure one ckan find much cholornatred cleaners in store shevles even, Maybe industril stuff is still avalable no doubt..

Hoppe's #9 will soften paint to, I ruined anice set of grips by getting some of it on my J frame smtih grips but thanks to good ol Bawanna he made those Herretts stocks look better than new. I would not recomment getting any spray cleaners on wood grips or u will end up seeing Dr. Bawanna like I did..

[Hognutz]

Thanks for the info, gentlemen..

[fastlaners]

Hi; new member; anxtious to shoot new p380; thanks Jocko for well thought out "Pre Prep Steps" I was wondering on #4 racking gun; would it be wise to remove recoil springs first; were as there is talk of; a possible weak spring to begin with and this 500 more racks would weaken it more? thanks John

[jocko]

I would not, ur not going to hurt that spring by hand racking. Really nothing better than the BANG thing to break in a gun and recoil springs but at home in the living room, kinda hard to do that.

[Avenger]

...ur not going to hurt that spring by hand racking...

Your hand, however, will be plenty sore! :D

[Ikeo74]

Hi; new member; anxtious to shoot new p380; thanks Jocko for well thought out "Pre Prep Steps" I was wondering on #4 racking gun; would it be wise to remove recoil springs first; were as there is talk of; a possible weak spring to begin with and this 500 more racks would weaken it more? thanks John
Removings the springs would be defeating the purpose of racking the slide, which is primarily needed to break in the springs.

[Cougar8000]

New PM9 owner here. Love the gun so far. Just got it last night. Reading this thread I have a question. jocko (http://kahrtalk.com/member.php?u=794) mentions 08880 brake cleaner that is non-chlorinated. Looked at what I have on the shelf and I have couple of cans of CRC Brakleen # 05088 that claims the same. Any issues with this one?

Thank you

[Rubb]

New PM9 owner here. Love the gun so far. Just got it last night. Reading this thread I have a question. jocko (http://kahrtalk.com/member.php?u=794) mentions 08880 brake cleaner that is non-chlorinated. Looked at what I have on the shelf and I have couple of cans of CRC Brakleen # 05088 that claims the same. Any issues with this one?

Thank you

If it’s Non-Chlorinated you should be fine.

[Cougar8000]

thanks Rubb. That is what it says on it :)

[skiflydive]

CRC used to separate their market identities by different color cans and different numbers for different markets. Red cans were industrial market, I think green was retail or marine, etc. 2-36 lubricant was industrial, 3-36 was automotive etc. It's been a while so I don't remember the color or number details exactly. but it was the same stuff in the cans. Rubb and Jocko are right, non-chlorinated brake cleaner should be OK. It doesn't matter the can color or the number. Test a small amount in an inconspicuous place before spraying your gun with abandon.

[Cougar8000]

Can that I have is green.

Excuse my ignorance, but if I understand correctly the only part that can potentially be affected is Polymer frame, correct? Sorry, never had polymer frame gun before.

[skiflydive]

The sights too.

[Cougar8000]

The sights too.

Oh. didn't think of that. I guess I will spray on he inside and see it.

[Cougar8000]

Finally found time to get to it. Cleaned it, lubed it, cycled it 200 times, cleaned, lubed, cycled again, cleaned and final lube. Now I just need to get to the range :)

Was amazing how much dirt was there originally. It sure cycles a smoother now.

Thank you

[soulfixinman]

When you rack the slide 500 times for the break in...I am assuming you are suppose to release and let it sling back by the force of the spring, is that correct? As apposed to guiding it back with hand resistance.
I lubed my rails with Mobil1 synthtic grease, feels smoother with just 100 racks.

[jocko]

When I posted that, I wasmore thinking of just racking and letting it slide back with little or no resistance, but withones hands still on the slide to. Any hand racking is bnetter than none, but nothing beats the BANG thing either. Just isntead of sitting there watching tv and playing with yourself,u can now play with the kahr slide:banplease: Actualy ur still jacking something:third:

[pocket pistol]

Great post... Thanks.

[Cougar8000]

Well, it appears that just racking it back and forth using your hand power works just as well.

A week ago finally got to the range and unloaded 250 rounds. Every one of them left the gun with a bang and no issues what so ever. I FREAKING LOVE THIS GUN. Thank you all for providing the info.

The only thing that I need to do to it is take care of the magazines not coming out all the way. When released it moves about and inch and stops. I am told there is a thread on that as well I just haven't found it yet. I will keep on looking, but if anyone has a finger on the trigger and thread is loaded in the chamber and you want to fire it to my PM or post it here please be my friend and fire away :)

Ohoh. The accuracy of the gun. At 21 feet from the first round fired until the last one I have had them grouped in 2x3 single handed left and right. Two hands all in 1x1. Even when target was mover all the way back I was still able to maintain a dissent grouping one handed. That is fantastic accuracy from the brand new little gun

[Scoundrel]

http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7325

[JFootin]

Another more recent post said to use like 600 to 800 grit sandpaper wrapped around the top of a mag and secured with double stick tape. Slide it in and out of the mag well a few times, try a mag, do it some more, try again until the mag drops free. It just smooths things out in there a little bit; doesn't really remove much plastic. And it will work for every mag you have.

[MO_Soldier]

Another more recent post said to use like 600 to 800 grit sandpaper wrapped around the top of a mag and secured with double stick tape. Slide it in and out of the mag well a few times, try a mag, do it some more, try again until the mag drops free. It just smooths things out in there a little bit; doesn't really remove much plastic. And it will work for every mag you have.

You dirty man...did you PM him for the video of this? :D lol

[hpg]

Good info

[cesande]

Thanks for the post.
In preparation for P380 work over and since I can not source Flitz here locally.
The question would be ...
Flitz Paste... or Liquid...

Any input appreciated..

[jocko]

You dirty man...did you PM him for the video of this? :D lol

u take all the dirty ol men off this forum, only bawanna and ol jocko would be left:der:

[Fireman489]

wow ! it only took me 3.5 hrs to read all 202 posts here.........I think I can now go to sleeep !

[OldLincoln]

Thanks for the post.
In preparation for P380 work over and since I can not source Flitz here locally.
The question would be ...
Flitz Paste... or Liquid...

Any input appreciated..

Paste work best.

[SDGlock23]

I use the paste too, I just slightly polish the rails just enough to smooth them out. I've done that, along with lube ( I like FP10 and Ballistol), I rack the slide about 500 times to help smooth things out more. I've never had an issue out of any of my 3 Kahrs.

[97harley]

I had a few times in the first 250 rounds with it not feeding the 3rd or 4th round with the extended mag but the last 250 or so have been event free. I'm even learning how to aim the little sucker too. I never would have thought after going most of my 45yrs without owning a pistol that I'd have 3 since getting my cc in late May. Now I'm thinking about a 1911 45. Any suggestions?

[Bawanna]

There's a pile of 1911's to choose from in a wide price range.

I suggest inquiring in the 1911 thread or the general discussion area so we can keep this thread on track for maintenance and prepping issues.

Lots of 1911 guys here as well.

[BroncoAZ]

I had a few times in the first 250 rounds with it not feeding the 3rd or 4th round with the extended mag but the last 250 or so have been event free. I'm even learning how to aim the little sucker too. I never would have thought after going most of my 45yrs without owning a pistol that I'd have 3 since getting my cc in late May. Now I'm thinking about a 1911 45. Any suggestions?

Well, you've already got a harley, so you might as well go full mid life crisis and buy a 1911 too. Personally I am a 1911 and harley (or most any motorcycle) dissenter, I can't see a reason to own either. Glad your Kahr is settling in.

[1R26]

Great information here! Taking Joko's advice all the way through. This is a nice forum to be a part of. As posted I have two guns I'm trying for the weekend. LC9 & CM9. Will run a few hundred rounds through both this weekend if the hurricane Sandy doesn't mess up the weather in the Carolinas. Will post decision on Monday. The chosen weapon will be my back up on duty & off-duty carry all. Any opinions from you experienced Kahr owners is appreciated.

[lokin4deer]

WOW Just read all 209 post. Learned alot and laughed a fair amount also. Thanks to all who contributed especially jocko and bawanna you guys rock!

[jocko]

WOW Just read all 209 post. Learned alot and laughed a fair amount also. Thanks to all who contributed especially jocko and bawanna you guys rock!

I just read all 209 posts myself just now. It was very enlightening. I learned some from it again to. Some points about the spray cleaners might not have been clearly made by me and others. But I do hope that my posts tried to eliminate the thoughts of DOES THESE NON CHOLORINATED BRAKE SPRAY CLENAERS HARM POLYMER GUNS. THEY DO NOT that is a fact. Now if u have painted sight which some guns do have or wood grips on ur kahrs which some models do have. Please use common sense ad take the grips off and watch those sights. If they are painted sights then surely they can be repanted if necessary. Most cleaning solvent are not good on wood grips. I can tell you Hoppe"s #9 loves to eat wood grips. again common sense plays a big part.

if u have any doubts, don't do it it. I have said many times buy the gun names brand spray cleaners. They will work perfectly. My only gripe was that they were way over priced for what I feel the over the counter auto spray cleaners will do for a 1/3 of the price. I certainly would never recommend a product that I have not used for awhile either.

always error on the side of caution in anything u do.

[Fredr500]

I did most of the prep contained in these 200+ posts on my new CM9 (using the 1000 grit sandpaper reminded me of clay-barring a car) and the first range trip was 100% flawless for 125 rounds. Thanks for the advice.

For some reason the Kahr seemed much dirtier than my M&P after shooting. Could just be me.

[Cokeman]

Mine is always filthier than any of my other guns. Of course the rest of them are all black. :001_huh:

[CB3]

Mine is always filthier than any of my other guns. Of course the rest of them are all black. :001_huh:

Such large amounts of fouling are often related to ammo choice. Cheap Remington, especially UMC, is the dirtiest I used to shoot. No more.

[DM123]

Just a side note. My favorite brand of non-chlornated brake parts cleaner is, or has been taken off the market in California and other like minded states. I'm not exactly sure of the reasons. The can says "due to its volatile organic compound content", whatever that means.

[Bawanna]

Just a side note. My favorite brand of non-chlornated brake parts cleaner is, or has been taken off the market in California and other like minded states. I'm not exactly sure of the reasons. The can says "due to its volatile organic compound content", whatever that means.

:eek:Oh my gawd, not the volatile organic compound content!:eek::eek:

Do not drink the stuff, you'll probably be ok.

I think that's the very reason people in California are the way they are, lots of gender operations, mano mano girlo girlo, weird bunch down there cept Old Lincoln of course, he seems perfectly normble.

[MW surveyor]

Just a side note. My favorite brand of non-chlornated brake parts cleaner is, or has been taken off the market in California and other like minded states. I'm not exactly sure of the reasons. The can says "due to its volatile organic compound content", whatever that means.

Hey, nothing wrong with "volatile organic compound(s)". Just as long as you
#1. Don't smoke while spraying.
#2. Don't expose to flame.

But then again, if you want a flame thrower, "volatile organic compound(s)" work really well. :target:

[Tinman507]

Sorry, we had burritos last night

http://cdn.motinetwork.net/stupidhumansplus.org/image/stupidhumans/1012/light-a-fart-fart-flame-burn-rerun-stupid-human-1293156011.jpg

[Cokeman]

Look at the goober behind the couch.

[Franko]

I'd like to thank Jocko for his most excellent cleaning instructions. I just purchased my PM9 lci with safety and night sights this weekend. Spent Saturday night prepping as per instructions (except I used Hornady One Shot cleaner and dry lube to blow out the goo from the crevices and little holes.) It is what I had on hand.

I took it to the range Sunday afternoon and ran 100 rounds of Federal white box FMJ range ammo through it. I experienced no problems with the action of the little gun, except it seems to amplify existing glitches in my handgun shooting. I tend to shoot a little right and low. (I know why, I'm working on it.) Even so, I managed to keep my groups inside 6 inches at 7 yards, counting flyers.

I guess proper preparation makes perfect performance, as they say.

I am having a problem that concerns me. When I take down the gun, after removing the slide stop and pulling the trigger, the slide is getting hung on something springy. It is pretty difficult to get the slide to slide forward off the lower. When it releases it sounds like a spring letting go. I can't see what is causing the hang-up. I feel like I'm way too close to snapping something when removing the slide. It didn't do this the first 2-3 times I broke the gun down.

One other little thing. When wracking the slide with an empty magazine, I hear a scraping sound. With the magazine out, the action is smooth as butter.

[jocko]

when I take the slide off my PM9 I pull the trigger and at the sae time pull the slide forward off the frame. It will catch a tad on the cocking cam but that is OK.

the other part ur talkinga bout with the scraping part, Ihave no clue. I am sure in time it will dissappear or cause no issues either. Keep shooting the gun just gets smoother with more rounds..

[MW surveyor]

If you have the empty magazine in the pistol when racking, the scraping sound is the slide hold back/stop. Take the magazine out when just hand racking!

[Franko]

Thanks for the quick replies Jocko, MW.

[pudge]

Franko,

It's my practice to move the slide forward till it stops, then pull the trigger back and hold it and move the slide forward till it stops or hesitates again, then release the trigger, and my slide almost always slips right off after that. If not, I'll pull and release the trigger again while applying slight pressure on the slide as above. Try this and see what happens. ...

[68blackbird]

Wow....that was quite a read. Copy and pasted a bunch of info, not often I have been in a forum that was technically helpful and entertaining at the same, loooong time. I'm gonna like this place :yo:

[mlavelle3]

New CW45 went through the prep. cycled 300 times. locked it open over night. I tooked it to the range and put 50 estate rds through it. alternating with a 7 round wilson combat knock-off i got on ebay. 0 problems. 1ST shot from 12 yards, 5 inches off the red. could'nt believe it. my first .45 ... i'm a big fan now. easy recoil/very loud. thanks to everyone's advice. Mike

[JFootin]

Welcome to the forum, Mike! :) Another successful result from using the Proper Prep thread! Cudos to Jocko! :yo:

[j8048188]

I'm new to the forum and just got a new cm9, and plan on taking it to the range today. I've disassembled, cleaned, and lubed it. I'm not sure if the slide lock spring and lever are going together correctly. Is the spring supposed to be above or below the lip? Is there a good way to check that it's interfacing correctly?

Thanks!

[wyntrout]

Welcome to the forum!

Watch the take down video. The manual covers it as well, but the video really shows it well, starting around 4:30 into the video:

Impatient? Watch one of these videos FIRST! These videos can point out possible problem areas and emphasize correct procedures!
Take down and re-assembly videos:
T, TP, CW, P, & PM/CM Series:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=G2cZgVg_SwA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=G2cZgVg_SwA)

Frequently asked questions: http://www.kahr.com/faq.asp?

There are many helpful members here most of the time who might be able to help you, but as anywhere, there are many opinions and not all are correct. Be mindful of this before doing anything drastic to modify your pistol!

Wynn:)

[jocko]

if u look at that slide lock lever, that lip asu call it has a small groove in it. that is where that spring tip should lie, so it will be above not below. That springs job is to keep the lever down at all times and the only time it should go up is when the magazine follower on the last round actually engages that little lip/nubb and pushes up the slide lock.. I also put a dab of grease on that little nub to let that spring ride over that little lip nicer, and also on the left side of that little springhy where the slide lock pin engages it when re installing it.that little springhy also does anutter thing by design and that is to keep that slide stop lever from backin out to. U should hear a slight snap when u push that slide stop in correctly to.

welcome to a good forum. Hopefully u have visited 3 good stickys

wyns' new member information

Kahr lube chart

Propper prepping of ur kahr

learn all u can before going out that first time.

[wyntrout]

For things to work correctly, your slide lock spring must look like this... not bent in any way. It can be damaged on either side and affect proper operation of the pistol. of course, the coloring is added for emphasis, courtesy of Greg, gb6491.

http://www.kahrtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7773&d=1361815810

Wynn:)

[CJCM9]

I did a through cleaning as described above and headed to the range. I ran multiple brands of FMJ thru it without an issue till round 220, FTF.

When I re-cleaned and reassembled the gun, CM9, I noticed that the firing pin was sticking out. When I touched it with my finger it popped back in. I disassembled the gun just to check things, everything looked right.

Is this something to worry about?
Did I do something wrong when re-assembling the gun?

[yqtszhj]

nothing to worry about at all. Mine does that too sometimes. You can be confident though that when it needs to be in, it will be in, and when you pull the trigger it will strike the primer and go boom. :)

[CJCM9]

nothing to worry about at all. Mine does that too sometimes. You can be confident though that when it needs to be in, it will be in, and when you pull the trigger it will strike the primer and go boom. :)
Looking thru the manual again, I'm wondering if the "striker block" was bumped while cleaning. After cleaning I'll make sure I check the "safety devices" per the manual.

[jocko]

I did a through cleaning as described above and headed to the range. I ran multiple brands of FMJ thru it without an issue till round 220, FTF.

When I re-cleaned and reassembled the gun, CM9, I noticed that the firing pin was sticking out. When I touched it with my finger it popped back in. I disassembled the gun just to check things, everything looked right.

Is this something to worry about?
Did I do something wrong when re-assembling the gun?

it is an enertia firing pin and when the slide cycles, the striker will be then held back by the cocking cam but until then it will look like ur describing.

Just shoot the fokker like u stole it.

[kahrinca]

I find the manual and official Kahr videos very helpful... I can't tell you how many regular people who've done videos on YouTube with the Kahrs don't know how to properly field strip or know about aligning the index marks, or know anything about the slide stop spring, testing of the firing pin safety, etc. This results in some difficulty for them.

It really helps to read the manual with any firearm; applicances also. IMO, most problems are due to people not following manufacturer's instructions.

And most who do reviews seem to think that it is okay to use the 'sling-shot' method of cycling the first round. They obviously have not read the manual. Suggest that you follow the manual and if you are going to use the sling-shot method do not do so until gun is well broken it, if at all.

Enjoy your new Kahr! It's true that it gets better the more rounds you fire through it.

[CJCM9]

The firing pin stays out after the trigger is pulled. When you rack the slide it resets the striker and if you walk the slide (just for a visual check), you can see the tip of the firing pin reset (pop back in) when the slide is closing.

An email to Kahr confirms that this is how the firearm is designed since the firing pin is free floating.

[CB3]

The striker stays out after the trigger is pulled. When you rack the slide it resets the striker and if you walk the slide (just for a visual check), you can see the tip of the striker reset (pop back in) when the slide is closing.

An email to Kahr confirms that this is how the firearm is designed.

In checking my P40, when slowly operating the slide on an unloaded pistol with no mag, the firing pin (not the striker) does indeed protrude during rearward and forward travel until the slide is 3/4 closed when it is mechanically stopped from its forward travel ("retracted") as the slide continues into battery.

However, the firing pin is not being held forward as the slide retracts; it is free floating. It is pushed forward by a hit from the striker, but it has no mechanical means of being retracted. It only remains forward until pushed back into its channel which is very easy to do. There is no resistance if the channel is clean.

The fast rearward travel of the slide in recoil causes the FP to retract as the striker is cocked, and if not, the rim of the round rising out of the magazine will push it back in.

The FP will be back in its channel, not exposed, if you insert an empty mag into an unloaded gun with a closed slide. Dry fire and rack it hard. The slide will stay locked back and the FP will not be protruding. The same thing will happen without the mag inserted if you rack hard and hold the slide fully rearward.

So, to be clear, the gun is not designed to have the FP remain protruding during slide cycling. It is designed so the free floating FP will retract and not interfere with loading the next round. In the artificial circumstance of pulling the trigger and slowly hand cycling the slide, it will stay in its forward position of travel until some force is exerted to get it back into the channel behind the breech face. The FP is never mechanically held in a protruding position unless something is wrong. The fact that there is a mechanical means to retract the striker if it is stuck forward just before the slide goes into battery is a safety plus.

[CraigBos]

Thanks for this. Worked like a charm on a new CW9!

[Fishng]

Some feedback on the suggestions for breaking in your Kahr.
Recently purchased a PM 9. Already own a PM40 and a P 380.
In breaking all three guns, I have followed the suggestions on this forum.
Cycle the action 200 times prior to firing.
Clean and oil the handgun according to the published directions, prior to the first range session.
Fire 200 rounds through the handgun.
I am posting this because I still read complaints about Kahr's jamming.
On the 40 and 380 I polished the feed ramp.
My new PM9 came from the factory with a mirror finish on the feed ramp. Did nothing to it.
On my new PM 9, 300 rounds. Not a single malfunction. Ball ammo and Hornady and Corbon ammo.
On the PM 40, 700 plus rounds. Not a single malfunction, again, same type of ammo.
The P380 I took to a friend's ranch during the break in, might as well let friends enjoy shooting and let me break in the handgun.
When older teenage girls fired the gun, it would occasionally fail to feed the next round. Telling the boys firing to hold the gun tight, prevented any malfunctions. I suspect the girls did not have enough grip pressure on the gun.
When I took it to the range with ball ammo, I did not have any failures to feed.
I now have an additional 200 rounds through the little pistol.
I tried some +P loads in it. The gun did not like the hot loads, I would get one failure to feed per magazine.
Went back to regular loads, no problems.
One man's opinion....
I carry daily. I also own Glocks.
I prefer carrying the Kahr's, easier to conceal, much lighter to carry, easier on your hip at the end of the day.
Yes, I do prefer shooting the Glocks, Heavier, like the trigger better.
As far as reliability and trust in a critical situation, I would use either the Glock or the Kahr.
But for carry, it's tough to beat my Kahr's....



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Amacro]

I have some homework to do I'll need to review the info put forth many times but so far great stuff thanks guys
Al

[rms2324]

Quick question on magazines, is there a pic/video showing the proper way for the magazine to be assembled? The diagram in the manual does not specify which way the spring should go.

Awesome guide

[Bawanna]

The follower should just be parallel to the top of the spring. Lay the spring down on the table, lay the follower above it. If the spring is pointing up to the right, the follower should do the same.

[wyntrout]

Free end to the front pushes up follower correctly.
http://www.kahrtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7743&stc=1&d=1361557557

[Bawanna]

Gallo, I'm gonna move your post to the MK thread. It might get more traffic there. I'll ask a few questions from there.