Cleaning/Lubricating internals

[AFDoc]

Happy New Year!
Every once in a while I'll use some non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean the slide internals then spray some RemOil on the moving parts I can see. Is there anything else I should be doing to lubricate the slide internals? I have no intention to take it apart. What do you all do/recommend to keep the internals from rusting? Or do I not need to worry about that? Thanks.

[TucsonMTB]

http://home.mindspring.com/~justsomeguy/KahrLubePoints.jpg

The lube diagram pretty well describes what works for me. I also apply a drop of Weapon Shield at the back of the extractor and work it in by wiggling the extractor with a piece of wood.

There's probably a lubrication thread in the new guys section.

[AFDoc]

Yep, have this and its what I do. However, there is a hole next to the forward "9" arrow in the diagram that leads to the firing pin channel. How do you, or is it necessary, re-lubricate those channels after cleaning out with the cleaner? I currently spray RemOil into the area behind point #7 in the thought that it will work it's way down the channels. Looking to see if there are any better ways to lubricate that area. Thanks.

[sas PM9]

Yep, have this and its what I do. However, there is a hole next to the forward "9" arrow in the diagram that leads to the firing pin channel. How do you, or is it necessary, re-lubricate those channels after cleaning out with the cleaner? I currently spray RemOil into the area behind point #7 in the thought that it will work it's way down the channels. Looking to see if there are any better ways to lubricate that area. Thanks.

AFD:

The consensus of the senior forum members is to not lubricate the striker channel. Any lube there will attract and hold detritus/debris and possibly cause a light striker hit on the primer with the accompanying failure to fire.

HTH

-steve

[Popeye]

Every thousand rounds or so I blow some WD40 down in that hole and in the Firing pin hole and the spring to clean out the firing pin channel. Then blow it out with compressed air. I never lube it though. I do CC mine though everyday either on my hip or in a jacket pocket and get a little concerned about that erea getting lint or other things caught in it. The gun has never failed to fire any rounds since I've owned it so I guess does more good than harm.

[ripley16]

The slide is stainless and the striker parts are nickel plated. Neither of these finishes is self lubricating. IMHO, a little lube on any moving parts is never a bad thing. Personally, I'm a big believer in dry lubes such as Eezox and Militec-1, which is what I use on my guns.

Because I use these treatments on the my guns I don't use de-greasers on my guns as it would remove or reduce their effectiveness. I've been known to let a drop of lube ooze into the striker chamber. I've yet to see any adverse effects of doing so.

[Barth]

I broke my MK40 in on Militec-1.
Which seemed to do real well with the all stainless pistol.
Later I switched to Ballistol with all my handguns.
It's non toxic, seems to lubricate and clean well.
And its good on leather, plastic, rubber...

It does have a rather pungent smell that some find off putting.
But I don't have to wear gloves or worry about toxins being absorbed into
my skin.

Yes,
I'm a clean freak when it comes to my hands and myself in general.

[AFDoc]

Hey guys, thanks all for the advice. I think I'll continue what I've been doing with the cleaner, probably decrease the frequency a little, and start using the Millitec, which as I understand it is a dry lubricant that will not hold the dust/dirt/etc, instead of the RemOil behind point #7. Thanks again!

[getsome]

Found a great gun lube that goes on wet and is a penetrating spray that cleans, loosens stuck parts and dries totally to a super slick synthetic film that lubes and protects metal...

It's made by high performance auto engine oil maker "Royal Purple" The product is a 100% synthetic spray called "Max Film"....This stuff has for me replaced all previous gun lube products like Rem-Oil, Weapon shield (Great stuff but pricy), CLP and any other expensive "gun marketed" products I have used in the past...I see from the Royal Purple web site they have now come out with a gun specific product but I haven't tried it yet but hope to soon, I can only report on the "Max Film" spray and it really works very well....

You can use this stuff in the striker channel without fear since it totally dries to a film and can't attract dirt and crud but still provides lubrication for the firing pin and spring mechanism...It really does a fantastic job on guns or anything else you might use a penetrating lube/rust preventative on and can be found at any O'Reilly auto parts store or ordered on line...One can will last for a long long time and I'm positive you will like it...I use Royal Purple motor oil in all my cars and trucks and they are a state of the art lubricant manufacturer and when I do an oil change I will collect the left over 5w30 synthetic oil from the bottom of the bottles and use it on my semi automatic pistol slides and it works great...

You can pay alot more for gun lube products but I don't think you could do any better at any price than "Max Film"....I don't work for Royal Purple and am only a customer and user of their engine oils and other lubricant products so I have no dog in that fight but I'm only wanting to tell other board members about a product that works great for me...Try some for yourself and see what you think....