Gun with a threaded barrel selection

[JustinN]

Been thinking if picking up a handgun with a threaded barrel, to later tax stamp and suppress. What are people's recommendations for factory guns that you can purchase with the threaded barrel. Looking for something that will be 100% even when suppressed (if that's even an issue).

Looked at the Renington 1911 that comes with the threaded barrel the other day and it got me really thinking about doing it again (assuming they put a stop to them).

Or would I be better of just getting a threaded barrel for whatever gun I choose? I suppose a quiet K9 could be pretty cool....

[wyntrout]

I've been thinking about a .22LR for that "niche". The Ruger 22/45 Lite in black with threaded barrel was $419 at the gun show last weekend, but I didn't want to wait an hour or more to be "processed". $419+tax isn't too bad for a $499 MRSP pistol.

I DID buy a lot of sub-sonic ammo when I got my 10/22 a year ago. It's quiet with the Tipton pop bottle patch catcher.

There's another gun show... the larger one this next weekend... the 2nd, so I have that in mind as well as a Glock 19C... maybe.

Wynn:D

[Barth]

Been thinking if picking up a handgun with a threaded barrel, to later tax stamp and suppress. What are people's ( especially Barth's) recommendations for factory guns that you can purchase with the threaded barrel. Looking for something that will be 100% even when suppressed (if that's even an issue).

Looked at the Renington 1911 that comes with the threaded barrel the other day and it got me really thinking about doing it again (assuming they put a stop to them).

Or would I be better of just getting a threaded barrel for whatever gun I choose? I suppose a quiet K9 could be pretty cool....

You can suppress most anything.
But the ammo used really needs to be sub sonic or you're defeating the purpose.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4V6nXUF86sY/Tjd9zFzEcvI/AAAAAAAAA9s/Q3AKWDBNcO0/s1600/hk45ct10.jpg

You can get a HK45C and get a OEM HK threaded HK45CT barrel too. I did.
https://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/thumbnail/photo62/c8/ad/d298b2cf3fe4__1354945277000.jpeg?tw=0&th=720&s=true&rs=falsehttps://www.t-mobilepictures.com/myalbum/thumbnail/photo61/7f/db/11ecc07a1501__1354945772000.jpeg?tw=0&th=720&s=true&rs=false

[Scoundrel]

I bought a Walther P22 with threaded barrel, and I found that it required a lot of modification before it would cycle reliably with sub-sonics, with the suppressor attached. I had to do a lot of smoothing out surfaces, removing material from the breech block so that the hammer did not drag, etc. Knowing this information, I would not make that purchase again.

I also bought a Ruger MK III 22/45 with threaded barrel, and it worked flawlessly out of the box with sub-sonics and the suppressor attached. I was pretty sure it would, because my 22/45 Target model (non-threaded) also worked fine with sub-sonics, with NO suppressor. The suppressor adds back pressure, which helps the bolt cycle properly.

I recently bought a Walther PPQ, but it was not the version that came with a threaded barrel. I bought a threaded barrel for it from Jarvis Custom for $300 shipped. I do not yet have a 9mm suppressor (paperwork is in progress) so I cannot tell you how it works with the suppressor. However, I did take it to the range and ran some sub-sonic 9mm through it, with the threaded barrel attached, with no problems.

There are aftermarket drop-in threaded barrels you can get for various guns, but not as many as you'd think.
Adco Firearms (http://www.adcofirearms.com/shopservices/shop_.cfm?code=1) will extend and thread your existing factory barrel for $155, but they do not offer this for 40 or 45 barrels (too thin). Here's the web page (http://www.adcofirearms.com/shopservices/shop_.cfm?code=1). Scroll all of the way to the bottom for the barrel extension info.

I plan to have a couple of 9mm barrels extended and threaded when my NFA paperwork goes through and the suppressor arrives.

[AC7880]

I would want a Ruger 22/45 lite if I did the threaded barrel/suppressor. http://www.ruger.com/products/2245/index.html

[Scoundrel]

Dunno about the lite thing. Having a fairly heavy pistol reduces muzzle flip. I know it's not much with .22lr, but it's nice to be able to rapid-fire 10 holes into something at 15 yards and get good groups.

[ripley16]

FNH also makes a supressor ready pistol, the FNX-45. Similar to the HK in that it's built to military standards.
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a552/jaydte/AWF%20Gun%20Photos/EADFA862-EDBD-42B4-B5F9-F3BE17D9CD4D-6954-000003835CE0618A.jpg

Any HK USP will accept a drop in threaded barrel. They cost about $250. Don't forget the original... the MK23. A real collectors item now and expensive, but very robust and accurate.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa164/Grayen/HKSuppression.jpg

[jeepster09]

:boink: I am from Minnesota....we are not worthy to own supressor's legally here. Our state knows whats best for us.

[Barth]

I've never owned a suppressor.
Other folks on this forum have more experience than me on that subject.

I would recommend looking at the whole package though.
Lot's of different design suppressors out there.
Find one you like and what guns it will go with.
There are multiple thread patterns with right or left twist too.
The kicker is sights.
A suppressor ready gun has, or you can order, tall sights to see over the can.
Some suppressors, like tombstone style, are designed to use with standard sights.
But even then, on some guns your vision can be obstructed.
Wet/dry and lots of other questions need to be answered before an informed decision can be made.

I was going that direction with my HK45C.
Converting it to a HK45CT and getting a suppressor.
But Obummer changed my priorities.

Good Luck!

[JustinN]

I just assumed they were laying around on the streets down there in Costa Rica, or girls in bikini's were handing them out.....

Yeah, it starts to get a bit over whelming looking at all the options on suppressors. The Ruger SR22 is shipping now with a threaded barrel, and I like that gun more than the Walther P22. I just wasn't sure I wanted a .22, I was thinking a bit heftier, just for the fun of it (plus with more expensive ammo I'd shoot it less and my suppressor might last a bit longer), but at this point, you can't get ammo anyway, so that idea may be moot.

[wyntrout]

A buddy with a company that sells suppressors at the last gun show told me to get the .223 model for a .22LR and use it for both... plus the .223 is sturdier.

Wynn:)

[Scoundrel]

I just assumed they were laying around on the streets down there in Costa Rica, or girls in bikini's were handing them out.....

Yeah, it starts to get a bit over whelming looking at all the options on suppressors. The Ruger SR22 is shipping now with a threaded barrel, and I like that gun more than the Walther P22. I just wasn't sure I wanted a .22, I was thinking a bit heftier, just for the fun of it (plus with more expensive ammo I'd shoot it less and my suppressor might last a bit longer), but at this point, you can't get ammo anyway, so that idea may be moot.

Maybe the folks over at Silencertalk.com can help answer your questions.

One option is to get a 45 or 9mm can with the "standard" 1/2 x 28 threads, and then get yourself TWO suppressor-ready pistols - one 45 or 9mm, and one 22.
You can shoot 22 through a larger suppressor. The down side is that it won't be as quiet as it would with a .22 suppressor, and your larger can gets dirty faster than if you only shoot 45 or 9mm.

The best scenario, if you can afford it, is to get yourself TWO setups - a 22 pistol with a 22 suppressor, and a larger set.

Are you into matching sets? Do you like the Smith & Wesson M&P 9?
If so, you could get the M&P 22 and the M&P 9, and two suppressors.

I've heard good things about the Ruger SR22, and if it had been shipping with a threaded barrel a year ago, I would have gone that route. Now I'm "stuck with" my Walther P22, but I've turned it into a reliable gun, so it's OK. And it "matches" my PPQ.

[Scoundrel]

The one thing I REALLY regretted not learning more about before I bought my first suppressor is what is involved in CLEANING it.

There are many different kinds of baffles inside a suppressor.
Some have a single solid baffle with a bunch of holes in it.
Some have K-shaped baffles that stack.
If the suppressor gets too dirty, the K baffles can be very difficult to remove from the tube.
Some have "clamshell" pieces around the baffles but still inside the tube, to keep the gunkus from making it difficult to remove the baffles from the tube.
Some don't come apart for cleaning, and you have to soak them in nasty chemicals to clean them.

You also want to pay attention to what the baffles are made of.
Some are made of aluminum, some are titanium, and some are stainless steel.
Some suppressors come with a combination of the above - stainless blast baffle, then the rest are aluminum.
Some of the aluminum baffles are anodized, and some are not. The anodization makes them stronger, but the down side is you'll notice how much you are damaging them when cleaning, and might feel bad about that.

When cleaning the aluminum ones, you have to be careful. If you clean them too aggressively, you can damage the baffles, putting scratches in them which then collect gunkus and are harder to clean the next time around. Also, you can't "dip" the aluminum ones because the dip that eats the lead will also eat the aluminum. Putting the aluminum ones in a rock tumbler with stainless steel pins will work, but it will slowly and surely wear down the corners and loosen the tolerances of your baffles.

The recommended method for cleaning aluminum baffles is a "soda blasting" setup, which of course is expensive, requires space to set up, and requires you to wear protective gear while cleaning. And there's still a fair bit of effort involved in the actual work of cleaning - but your delicate baffles will last longer.

The stainless ones are safe to "dip", which is by far the easiest method of cleaning - but you have to be prepared to safely dispose of the used dip. You can also put the stainless ones in a rock tumbler with stainless steel pins without fear of damaging them.
The downside to the stainless ones is that they're heavy.

When I purchased my first one, I did lots of research on weight, level of noise reduction, and ability to take apart for cleaning. Then I bought pretty much the cheapest model out there for my 22. As far as I could tell, they were all pretty quiet, and my local shop had the cheap one in stock, so I went that route.

The manufacturer of my first one (GemTech) offers the ability to upgrade the baffles to stainless. if you sent it to them right away without firing any rounds through it, they'll charge very little for the swap because they can use your old aluminum ones in another unit. If I had known all about the cleaning issues I would have done that straight away.
NOW, if I want stainless baffles for that can, I would have to pay nearly the original purchase price to upgrade to the stainless baffles.
When/if I wear out the baffles too much with my rock tumbler and scraping the remaining crap off with a steel screwdriver, I'll send it in for the stainless baffles.

The stainless baffles weigh more, but I learned what the weight differences was, and experimented by removing some of my aluminum baffles and replacing them with nickels inside the can to simulate the weight of the stainless baffles. I don't have any problem with the extra weight.

For my 2nd suppressor, now fully aware of the difficulties in cleaning, I STILL opted for one that had aluminum baffles (except the blast baffle), being fully aware of the cleaning issues, because it's mainly for shooting 9mm, which is not nearly as dirty as 22.

Just to give you a starting point for research, and not to say that what I bought is the best or anything, here's what I went with:

1. GemTech Outback IID (22, blast baffle is stainless, remaining baffles are non-anodized aluminum).
2. AAC Ti-RANT 9 (9mm, not the "short" model, blast baffle is stainless, remaining baffles are anodized aluminum.
3. Fixed barrel spacer for when I want to attach the Ti-RANT to a 22.

[les strat]

A buddy with a company that sells suppressors at the last gun show told me to get the .223 model for a .22LR and use it for both... plus the .223 is sturdier.

Wynn:)

This is the route I want to go..

Any good brand recommendations?

[Scoundrel]

A buddy with a company that sells suppressors at the last gun show told me to get the .223 model for a .22LR and use it for both... plus the .223 is sturdier.

This is the route I want to go..
Any good brand recommendations?

It is true that a 223 suppressor will be sturdier. I have been warned against shooting 223 through the 9mm can because the extra pressure from the 223 could implode the can - kind of like a muffler backfire in a car. Note: I do not have first-hand experience of this or even a reliable source to quote.

In all cases of shooting a smaller caliber through a larger can, it will not be as efficient as shooting the caliber the can was designed for. However, the difference between 22 and 223 is so small, it would probably be "good enough".

However, here is my argument against doing this:
1. 223 suppressors are going to cost you a LOT more than a 22 suppressor.
2. Most 223 rounds are hypersonic, so you will still make a sonic boom.
3. By the time you reduce the power of a 223 round to make it subsonic, the round loses its effectiveness - so you might as well be shooting a 22 rifle. Subsonic rounds in 223 are expensive, too (even when the ammo market is not crazy).

Rebuttals to this:
1. It's only money, right?
2. The sonic boom will not hurt your ears (I read that on the internet so it must be true), and you still get the other benefits: reduced muzzle blast, muzzle concussion, and muzzle flash. Plus it's harder for someone to tell where the shot came from.
3. Don't shoot subsonic (see #2), or load your own.

So you just have to ask yourself: Is it worthwhile to buy a 223 suppressor at all? That depends on your intended uses, your budget, and your preferences.