Kahr polymer framed guns not firing when cold *UPDATED* Kahr fixed it.

[richholland]

There is a thread here: http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=15635
that describes the phenomena, but I think the discussion really belongs in the tech forum.

Summary: Some polymer framed Kahr pistols experience a consistent, repeatable malfunction when the gun is cold (sub 37 degrees F; exact temperature varies by instance).

Description of Malfunction: When the gun is cold, pulling the trigger to the rear does not immediately release the striker. There is typically a long delay (more than 1 second) before the striker falls; and the delay can sometimes be reduced by exerting extra pressure on the trigger after it is pulled completely to the rear.

Potential Causes Already Ruled Out:
Dirty gun - others conducting this experiment have performed it with a clean gun.
Gummed-up lubricant - others conducting this experiment have removed all lubricant and run it dry
Dirty / improperly lubed striker channel - others conducting this experiment have disassembled and thoroughly cleaned the striker channel. Results are the same.
Broken gun from misuse of previous owner - results are the same on a P9 purchased new from dealer

PLEASE HELP:
You can help by running the 'freezer experiment.'
Load snap caps and put the gun in the freezer compartment of your kitchen refrigerator / freezer for 20-30 minutes.
Take gun out of freezer and pull the trigger. Observe whether the gun operates as normal, or if there is a long delay between trigger pull and the release of the striker.

Reply to this thread and report your results.

Thanks for your help.

UPDATE 2/11:
I conducted several more tests, and incorporated some of the suggestions I received in this thread. Unfortunately, no matter what I do, I get the same results. When the gun is cold, the striker does not fall as expected when the trigger is pulled to the rear.

I called Kahr and they gave me an RMA # and a pre-paid shipping label. I will update more after I get the gun back.

UPDATE 2/25
I got the gun back today. On the tech worksheet, under "Action Taken," it says: "Reworked trigger. Lubed test fired good."

I put it in the freezer for 25 minutes, and it works perfect! :)

Also, I might be imagining it, but it seems like the trigger is a bit smoother overall.

I took it apart, and it seems like all the original parts . . . but it wasn't obvious to me what they did to fix it. . . . But it is fixed!!

[Ae35]

Last month, when it was 19 degrees, I shot my Kahr for the second time, I'd already put 200 fmj. through it a couple of weeks before, when it was 29 degrees, no failures and NO slow fire, the striker worked normal !!! Only today on the 364th total round, did I have any kind of failure, and that was a failure to lock back the slide on the last round , follower front leg broke off, gun still ran with out any FTF's or FTE's after that. Unless there's some moisture in the channel that's frozen, I can't understand what would cause the striker to move slowly in cold weather.

[richholland]

Last month, when it was 19 degrees, I shot my Kahr for the second time, I'd already put 200 fmj. through it a couple of weeks before, when it was 29 degrees, no failures and NO slow fire, the striker worked normal !!! Only today on the 364th total round, did I have any kind of failure, and that was a failure to lock back the slide on the last round , follower front leg broke off, gun still ran with out any FTF's or FTE's after that. Unless there's some moisture in the channel that's frozen, I can't understand what would cause the striker to move slowly in cold weather.

The striker isn't moving slowly. Instead, there is a long delay before the striker falls. When it does fall, it falls at the normal pace.

It is like something is keeping the striker pulled back to the rear - like a misalignment in the cocking cam or something like that.

[Ae35]

No delays here when it was cold ! Sorry.

[Armybrat]

Well, I live in central Texas so am not worried about my CW45 malfunctioning because of cold weather.

:p

[Bill K]

I wasn't aware that could be a problem with Kahr polymers. Hey, a plus for those of us that pocket carry our Kahrs... shouldn't have to worry about the issue should a situation arise. :)

[kerby9mm]

Using what little common sense that I possess the system is mechanical not hydralic and I'm pretty sure there is no battery. As you pull the trigger back the cam pulls the striker back until such time the cam then let's the striker go and the striker spring does the rest. Could it be the cold weather thing is just a coincidence with some other malfunction?

[jocko]

I wasn't aware that could be a problem with Kahr polymers. Hey, a plus for those of us that pocket carry our Kahrs... shouldn't have to worry about the issue should a situation arise. :)

thats why I always have my hands in my pockets, u know to keep my GUN warm :D

[richholland]

I wasn't aware that could be a problem with Kahr polymers. Hey, a plus for those of us that pocket carry our Kahrs... shouldn't have to worry about the issue should a situation arise. :)

But surely you can see my concern. If my wife wants to carry the Kahr in a shoulder bag when it is below 40 degrees outside, then, really, we won't be able to trust it.

[yqtszhj]

I'm going to go out on a limb here but I know this for a fact. When I shoot my CW45 in the heat of summer, if I leave it in the sun while while loading magazines or whatever, the trigger breaks later, almost all the way to the back. There is some small change (expansion of polymer by fractions of an inch, .02 inch to be exact) when really hot from sitting in the sun.

It caused me trigger reset problems at first but I was able to smooth it out (c0cking cam and trigger bar by operating it) and the problem stopped. Your issue may be just the opposite.

Keep your gun warm and there shouldn't be a problem. I guess I wouldn't make my freezer a gun safe.

[richholland]

Keep your gun warm and there shouldn't be a problem. I guess I wouldn't make my freezer a gun safe.

This means that if I ever have to leave the gun in the trunk, because I'm going to an off limits area, I know I can't trust the gun until it has had plenty of time to warm up.

Or, if I want to carry it in a bag or pack of some sort, and it is cold outside, forget it.

I have plenty of guns, but I have never had one that was temperature sensitive.

If I can't trust it 100% of the time, that is the same as not being able to trust it at all.

My point for this thread, however, was to have a technical discussion, so I appreciate your comments about what happened to yours in the heat.

[BucketBack]

I wasn't aware that could be a problem with Kahr polymers. Hey, a plus for those of us that pocket carry our Kahrs... shouldn't have to worry about the issue should a situation arise. :)

I was pocket carrying my CW9 the other day in my Carhart coat pocket.

While roof raking the 14" of snow off, I was covered head to toe with my pockets filled up also. I didn't realize it until later since I was having so much fun.

After 4 hours or so of work, the Kahr was incased in snow and a little ice formed from my body heat.

Guess what, it fired just fine, the same as my Glock did during a similar test the year before.

I prefer the Kahr for ladder climbing and roof raking, it rides closer to the body than the block Glock and the 12' + rake handle doesn't hand up on the Kahr as often as the G-Lock

[Rubb]

30 minute freezer test of a 2009 PM9 resulted in no change in function.

[jocko]

This means that if I ever have to leave the gun in the trunk, because I'm going to an off limits area, I know I can't trust the gun until it has had plenty of time to warm up.

Or, if I want to carry it in a bag or pack of some sort, and it is cold outside, forget it.

I have plenty of guns, but I have never had one that was temperature sensitive.

If I can't trust it 100% of the time, that is the same as not being able to trust it at all.

My point for this thread, however, was to have a technical discussion, so I appreciate your comments about what happened to yours in the heat.

possably ur gun might have an issue,as u can see fromsome of the posts. they areOK in cold weather..

[richholland]

30 minute freezer test of a 2009 PM9 resulted in no change in function.

Great. Thanks for doing this.

[richholland]

possably ur gun might have an issue,as u can see fromsome of the posts. they areOK in cold weather..

Yes, that is what I am thinking. If only a very few people have this problem, then there is (most likely) something wrong with our guns.

[jocko]

I have no clue as to how u think kahr will know how to fix that. I think I wouold more than likely tell them when it get s32 degrees the gun ceases to function correctly. Forget about the freezer thing.. Keep us informed.

[JohnJak]

Mobil 1 5w-40w.:)

[certified106]

Left mine in the freezer for an hour...... no delay or failure.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

[yqtszhj]

I have no clue as to how u think kahr will know how to fix that. I think I wouold more than likely tell them when it get s32 degrees the gun ceases to function correctly. Forget about the freezer thing.. Keep us informed.

I'm with Jocko. Plus if you carried OWB walking through the woods in the winter you'd have the same issue.

Does anyone know if the trigger is mounted/fixed to the metal frame that is encased in the polymer? I'm thinking it would be by the pin that holds in the trigger.

[jocko]

no it is not. the only metal part that is in the gu is the front two long slide rails which is a one peace unit. The rest of the gun is pure polymer, no internal frame structure..

[gb6491]

no it is not. the only metal part that is in the gu is the front two long slide rails which is a one peace unit. The rest of the gun is pure polymer, no internal frame structure..
Say man, you forgot the rear rails insert groove thang:hippie:

[jocko]

I knew that after I posted it to. ur right. I guess I was really trying to answer the trigger pin thing to him..

[richholland]

Thanks all.

Yes, I'm not going to tell them about the freezer, since that was only a test after the problem came up in the "real world."

I initially noticed it after I retrieved my gun from the trunk of my car and wanted to have some practice on the trigger with snap caps.

The bottom line is that below about 37 degrees, the gun does not function.

[gb6491]

...The bottom line is that below about 37 degrees, the gun does not function.
That's talking your particular gun correct?

When you say "There is typically a long delay (more than 1 second) before the striker falls; and the delay can sometimes be reduced by exerting extra pressure on the trigger after it is pulled completely to the rear.". are you saying the delay occurs when the trigger is pulled and released or pulled and held back? Though not knowing which, I thought I'd contribute to your data base by seeing if my triggers operated normally, so I stuck my two "CW" series pistols in the freezer and promptly forgot about them for about three hours. Once I remembered they were in there (OK, I was looking for a frozen fruit bar), I tried the trigger on both and they worked without issue (both launched a Bic pen skyward).

However, I did notice that the slide on the CW 45 felt a little sluggish when cycling it. I'll not name the lube I used because I haven't had reason to test it further until today, though I will say I use it on my Remington 11-48 and noticed it was sluggish several weeks ago when temps were down on an early morning quail hunt. This leads me to believe that lube type or cleanliness shouldn't be ruled out just yet.
In regards to:
Dirty gun - others conducting this experiment have performed it with a clean gun.
Gummed-up lubricant - others conducting this experiment have removed all lubricant and run it dry
Dirty / improperly lubed striker channel - others conducting this experiment have disassembled and thoroughly cleaned the striker channel. Results are the same.
Did any of these folks remove the side plate? Perhaps there is gunk under it that inhibits the trigger bar when cold, maybe there's a clearance issue?
I'd like to suggest removing the side plate and repeating the test.
Regards,
Greg

[richholland]

That's talking your particular gun correct?

When you say "There is typically a long delay (more than 1 second) before the striker falls; and the delay can sometimes be reduced by exerting extra pressure on the trigger after it is pulled completely to the rear.". are you saying the delay occurs when the trigger is pulled and released or pulled and held back? Though not knowing which, I thought I'd contribute to your data base by seeing if my triggers operated normally, so I stuck my two "CW" series pistols in the freezer and promptly forgot about them for about three hours. Once I remembered they were in there (OK, I was looking for a frozen fruit bar), I tried the trigger on both and they worked without issue (both launched a Bic pen skyward).

However, I did notice that the slide on the CW 45 felt a little sluggish when cycling it. I'll not name the lube I used because I haven't had reason to test it further until today, though I will say I use it on my Remington 11-48 and noticed it was sluggish several weeks ago when temps were down on an early morning quail hunt. This leads me to believe that lube type or cleanliness shouldn't be ruled out just yet.
In regards to:
Dirty gun - others conducting this experiment have performed it with a clean gun.
Gummed-up lubricant - others conducting this experiment have removed all lubricant and run it dry
Dirty / improperly lubed striker channel - others conducting this experiment have disassembled and thoroughly cleaned the striker channel. Results are the same.
Did any of these folks remove the side plate? Perhaps there is gunk under it that inhibits the trigger bar when cold, maybe there's a clearance issue?
I'd like to suggest removing the side plate and repeating the test.
Regards,
Greg

Thanks, Greg.

Yes, I'm talking about my gun . . . although a guy in the other thread described exactly the same thing, and another guy described the same symptoms, but did not go into details about how/when/why.

I pull the trigger all the way to the rear and hold it; there is a delay; and then the striker falls. It seems to me that the harder I pull on the trigger after it is all the way back, the shorter the delay. But since I have no way to get hard data on this, and since the trigger does not actually move any further when I am pulling harder, this part of it might just be in my mind.

When the gun is room temperature, there is a slight over travel to the trigger - meaning, the "cocking cam" (as Kahr calls it) continues to rotate after it releases the striker. It is possible that when the gun is cold, there is something hampering the movement of the cam; such that the trigger and bar move through their normal motion, but the mechanism binds and prevents the cam from moving through its normal range of motion. Then at some point, the stress on the system from the trigger being pulled and held overcomes the binding on the cam that allows it to move through the remainder of its normal rotation.

This theory is supported by the fact that I do feel a slight binding/resistance near the final portion of the trigger travel when the gun is cold.

Of course, as you suggest, the binding might be taking place on the trigger bar itself, underneath the side plate.

I have not removed the side plate - this is the only thing I have not disassembled. What size Torx is that? I'll do it and see what happens. However, I suspect that since there are three of us on the forum that have the identical problem, gunk is most likely not the issue.

[jocko]

I think it is a #6 torx harbor freight sells a cheapo set that also included the #5 torx which fits the P380.

jSo that side plate screw is either a 5 or a 6 Torx for sure.:Amflag2:

[richholland]

I think it is a #6 torx harbor freight sells a cheapo set that also included the #5 torx which fits the P380.

jSo that side plate screw is either a 5 or a 6 Torx for sure.:Amflag2:
It's a #5.

[Flincher]

I live in North Dakota and shoot outdoors all year. If the sun is shining and the wind aint blowin, even 0 degrees is decent. I've never had a gun issue the I could say was weather related due to temps. However, just as you use thinner oil in you car in the winter, maybe the use of grease could be a culprit. When it's real cold, I'll use thinner oil like Rem-oil.

[jocko]

My buddy's semi auto shotgun frooze up one hard winter while waterfowl hunting in the blowing snow. It can happen,not sure anything is fool proof. Lubricants today play a big part of propper or impropper reliability.

I choose not to put my PMJ9 through all the enduraced type tests.I have carried it for over 5years and all I can assume is that when I need it, that it will not let me down.

hujmm , I wonder why engine heaters areso so popular in canada????? Just sayin:Amflag2:

[Scoundrel]

One hour in the freezer.
1 snap cap in the chamber, 5 in the magazine.

Pulled it out, pulled the trigger. Click!
Racked the slide and pulled the trigger again. Click!
Kept doing that until I ran out of snap caps. Clicked every time.

My CM9 functions fine cold.
I have about 4K rounds through it.

[richholland]

One hour in the freezer.
1 snap cap in the chamber, 5 in the magazine.

Pulled it out, pulled the trigger. Click!
Racked the slide and pulled the trigger again. Click!
Kept doing that until I ran out of snap caps. Clicked every time.

My CM9 functions fine cold.
I have about 4K rounds through it.

Thanks for your feedback. I want to be able to trust my gun in the cold weather, just like you do.

As I said in my update in the OP, Kahr is going to take my gun and see what they can do to fix it.

The main reason for this thread was to see if others were having the same problem (so far, there are three of us on this forum that do have this problem), and if so, how widespread it is.

It seems fairly clear to me that this is a rare thing to happen; but that there is something in their design or manufacturing process that allows for this possibility.

[jocko]

not necessiarly, there ius just sumpin not right in ur gun, doesn't mean it is a design defect or it would show up in most allof them. Kahr will get u right.

There is always a possability in everything. A possability the next time u pull the trigger u get a dead primer...

[richholland]

not necessiarly, there ius just sumpin not right in ur gun, doesn't mean it is a design defect or it would show up in most allof them. Kahr will get u right.

There is always a possability in everything. A possability the next time u pull the trigger u get a dead primer...

Yeah, I understand. I'm not blaming Kahr or saying that something is bad at all. No matter what the brand is, manufacturing processes aren't perfect, and so there is a chance for something to go wrong. But with three of us with exactly the same problem, that tells me that this is one of the problems that could possibly come up.

Like you said, there is always the possibility of something going wrong; but when the same thing goes wrong in the same way on three different guns, that tells us something.

Hopefully, someone who never thought of this before will see this thread and check their gun to make sure they don't have the same problem. If they do find they have this problem, they can get it fixed. If not, then they will be even more confident with their gun.

[Scoundrel]

No matter what the brand is, manufacturing processes aren't perfect, and so there is a chance for something to go wrong. But with three of us with exactly the same problem, that tells me that this is one of the problems that could possibly come up.

Like you said, there is always the possibility of something going wrong; but when the same thing goes wrong in the same way on three different guns, that tells us something.

I have to agree that with three different guns, there's an increased chance that something went wrong with the manufacturing process.

I understand wanting to send it back to Kahr and get it back working flawlessly as soon as possible.
But the geek/tinkerer in me wants to know why it happened, so it's too bad we won't get the chance to help you dissect the problem.

I know you said other people took apart their striker channel and looked around in there, but I'd have done my own.

[richholland]

I have to agree that with three different guns, there's an increased chance that something went wrong with the manufacturing process.

I understand wanting to send it back to Kahr and get it back working flawlessly as soon as possible.
But the geek/tinkerer in me wants to know why it happened, so it's too bad we won't get the chance to help you dissect the problem.

I know you said other people took apart their striker channel and looked around in there, but I'd have done my own.

I took everything apart on mine, and then put it back together . . . several times. I couldn't find anything that looked wrong.

I'm also a "tinkerer" - I have an engineering degree, and I come by it honestly. But it is frustrating to have it apart and look at everything and not be able to tell what is wrong.

[KKing]

I'm in just to find out what Kahr says is wrong. Out of curiosity, I did the freezer test as well with Snap Caps, functioned as it should

[BucketBack]

I already posted my good success with my CW9 and cold in this thread . :o

[richholland]

Thanks, BucketBack & KKing.

I'll post an update when I get the gun back. I'm getting ready to ship it off this afternoon.

[newCW45guy]

Thanks, BucketBack & KKing.

I'll post an update when I get the gun back. I'm getting ready to ship it off this afternoon.

Please let me know the outcome. I just experienced the same issue with my CW45.

As it warms it starts firing and as it warms more trigger travel to firing gets shorter and shorter.

[newCW45guy]

I took everything apart on mine, and then put it back together . . . several times. I couldn't find anything that looked wrong.

I'm also a "tinkerer" - I have an engineering degree, and I come by it honestly. But it is frustrating to have it apart and look at everything and not be able to tell what is wrong.

I noticed something on my gun. There is no overtravel after the bang point. Seems like there should be some. The Kahr patent video seems to show a slight overtravel.

Can any of you check for trigger overtravel after the striker is released?

Anyway I sprayed the frame internals with Brakleen today to get rid any lubricant. Cold soaked 11 degrees F even the loaded mag was harder to remove rather than falling free. Frame does indeed shrink.

Striker did release but it took at least 3x the usual pressure at full travel (rest of the travel was normal). Like I had to stress something to get it to fire.

Guessing either the trigger or transfer bar is bottoming out on something. Possibly something as minor as those pesky plastic chips we often find.

I hate to have to remove the side plate as that means removing my traction grips :32: but it appears that will be the first place I have to look for binding.

I'm not thinking this is something out of line to expect the gun to fire. i.e. my gun was in my car while I was at work something a lot of people do and if there was something happening in the parking lot or on the way home I want it to fire like normal.

[richholland]

I had the side plate off on mine. I was hoping to see something, but didn't.

I agree that it seems like the trigger is "bottoming out" on something.

[Scoundrel]

I had to try it like 10 times to be sure, but after the break there is just the tiniest little bit of trigger movement. Had to brace my thumb on the trigger guard for stiffness and use a finger on the other side to push the trigger back, because when it breaks, of course it wants to snap the rest of the way back. It really is a small movement.

[newCW45guy]

Thanks... I think we've identified a possible problem. Frame shrinks closing the distance on the transfer bar (unlike a lot of sear/hammer fired guns it moves forward) and it no longer travels enough to release the striker.

My gun has zero overtravel at room temp. It probably should have a bit. And if you have overtravel it's probably not going to be an issue.

I was thinking about ordering a trigger pull guage to make a video to prove the point but they all top out at 10-12lbs. My trigger when cold is for sure more than that.

Thinking I have to call Kahr....

[richholland]

Thanks... I think we've identified a possible problem. Frame shrinks closing the distance on the transfer bar (unlike a lot of sear/hammer fired guns it moves forward) and it no longer travels enough to release the striker.

My gun has zero overtravel at room temp. It probably should have a bit. And if you have overtravel it's probably not going to be an issue.

I was thinking about ordering a trigger pull guage to make a video to prove the point but they all top out at 10-12lbs. My trigger when cold is for sure more than that.

Thinking I have to call Kahr....

I think you are right.

[BucketBack]

Can you measure some points on the frame when it's warm, then remeasure the same points when cold?

[richholland]

UPDATE 2/25
I got the gun back today. On the tech worksheet, under "Action Taken," it says: "Reworked trigger. Lubed test fired good."

I put it in the freezer for 25 minutes, and it works perfect! :)

Also, I might be imagining it, but it seems like the trigger is a bit smoother overall.

I took it apart, and it seems like all the original parts . . . but it wasn't obvious to me what they did to fix it. . . . But it is fixed!!

[certified106]

Awesome!! Sounds like they made it right for you.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

[MikeyKahr]

Great news, now go shoot it while it is still cold!

[yqtszhj]

That's good news. I bet they polished everything up.

[voodoo54]

I fired over 200 rounds with my CW40 with my wife at Knob Creek Range last february in 20 degree weather with no issues. Pistol shot flawlessly. If your having issues talk to Kahr.

[Nashvillejeff]

I registered on this forum to specifically address your issue to say I have this problem as well. You are not alone. I bought a new CW40 last year. This month, the gun was in the glove box for a couple days on the farm. Pulled out to shoot for some DAO practice. It would not fire. Took two fingers to pull trigger hard enough to release striker. It was average of 35 degrees out. It fires properly now that the temperature warmed up. The gun will be returned, supposedly fixed, and sold. I keep all my equipment clean and operable. It is not user error.

[Pointblank]

Sounds like the wrong lube or too much lube issue to me.

[cz9]

UPDATE 2/25
I got the gun back today. On the tech worksheet, under "Action Taken," it says: "Reworked trigger. Lubed test fired good."

I put it in the freezer for 25 minutes, and it works perfect! :)

Also, I might be imagining it, but it seems like the trigger is a bit smoother overall.

I took it apart, and it seems like all the original parts . . . but it wasn't obvious to me what they did to fix it. . . . But it is fixed!!

I had the same exact problem, sent it in free of charge, and Kahr reworked the trigger. It works fine in below freezing weather now. They had it back to me in less than a week. Thanks, Kahr, and thanks Rich for posting.

[rocketgeezer]

Picked up a PM9 about a month ago, the gun was new unfired, at first it seem to be touchy with ammo it would feed and eject fine but light primer stricks seemed to be a issue, until I realized I had batch of crap ammo, I figured this out after the same ammo would not fire in my RI or Glocks, in the middle of this "testing" the recoil spring came apart, normaly at this point the gun would have been sold or traded, but I really like the little gun, E-mail Kahr, explained what was going on, sent me a replacement recoil assy, no charge, now with 500+ rds down the pipe, its full time carry, great little gun, and Kahrs cust service is above all others I have delt with,...........oh and as to this particular thread it sat in the freezer overnight loaded and cocked pulled it out the next morning and emptied the mag with no issue

[GlockShok]

I am so sick of people blaming this issue on lube. Unless you use some of that varnished camel spit that people had in the 70's, then there should be no issue with a self preservation tool not functioning.
The problem is related to the overall dimensions of the frame and the plastics tendency to shrink in cold weather. Most polymer pistols are injection molded of a relatively inconsistent mix of recycled material. This can cause some size fluctuations and some batches may have a tendency to shrink or swell more than usual in extreme temperatures. The top front of the triggers surface is being impeded by a part of the shrunken plastic frame. This is why squeezing extremely hard usually causes the seized striker to finally fall - because the plastic surface flexes just enough under the force of the already bottomed out trigger surface. This is not an unheard of issue. It effects all types of Kahr's polymer framed guns. The easy fix is to remove the trigger and sand a few thousandths of an inch of metal off of that top/front/flat surface. It allows some trigger over-travel and fixes the issue permanently. That trigger is a real fu'er to get back in the gun however and will probably cause a rise in both your blood pressure and the increased likelihood of you consuming large quantities of alcoholic beverages and tobacco products.
These guns are tiny. That is a very good thing. BUT.... this leaves less room for inconsistencies in the manufacturing process. Check your gun. If it doesn't function below freezing and you don't want the frustration of fixing it yourself then give Kahr a call, tell them what the problem is and how you are aware of the issue causing it, ask nicely for a return label, and Kahr's well regarded customer service should take care of everything.

[muggsy]

I've noticed that I have a severe shrinkage problem in cold weather or when I go into the pool. :)

[tony k]

I've noticed that I have a severe shrinkage problem in cold weather or when I go into the pool. :)

That's called "Sport Mode" ;) . It also results in delays in "releasing" the "striker." A little fluff and buff will fix the problem. I don't recommend filing off any part of this trigger. Not even just a few thousandths

[Tilos]

yep, these guns are tiny...
I'm thinking a "carry gun" will be about 98.6 degrees when in use, regardless of what the outside temperature is.
Now a range gun is something different.
jmo
:D

[GlockShok]

It's a $15 part if you were to grind off too much material. There is no safety issue with the modification. Or you can wait three weeks for Kahr to fix it and be out of a carry piece. That seems like a fantastic idea.

[muggsy]

It's a $15 part if you were to grind off too much material. There is no safety issue with the modification. Or you can wait three weeks for Kahr to fix it and be out of a carry piece. That seems like a fantastic idea.

I don't recommend that anyone rework a trigger except for Kahr Arms, or a qualified gunsmith. Anything more than field stripping the gun can void your 5 year warranty. Tampering with the trigger can set you up for a liability lawsuit and a lifetime of regret. The trigger on a Kahr pistol should break well before the trigger contacts the frame and Kahr triggers do have considerable overtravel. They aren't target pistols. If your trigger isn't functioning properly it deserves the attention of Kahr Arms. Many of the fixes found on this web are band-aid fixes. They rectify the problem without addressing the true cause. All of us have paid a good dollar for our guns and the guns shouldn't have to be jury rigged to make them work properly. That's my opinion and I believe that Kahr Arms would concur. If you can't be without a gun for a few weeks you don't own enough guns.