9mm primer pocket variances

[dkmatthews]

Just finished cleaning, decapping and priming 500 pieces of 9mm brass.

Over the course of the last couple of hours, I made some observations and wanted to share/compare with the experiences of the others 'round here.

Many different brands in the 500 pieces, including


Aguila
Blazer
Federal
PMC
Privi Partisan (PPU)
Sellier & Bellot
Winchester



So, out of this assortment, I noticed during decapping that the PPU and Aguila seemed to require significantly more force to decap and size than any of the others. I was using my Lyman T-mag II press for decapping & resizing.

For priming, I use a Lee hand primer with Federal small magnum pistol primers. I found the PPU and Aguila required more force to seat the primer, just like before. However, the S&B also required more force and almost as much as the PPU and Aguila.

For what it's worth, the Blazer seemed to have the "loosest" brass, if that makes sense. For decapping/resizing and for priming, the Blazer required almost no force at all. The primers slide in so easy it makes me scared that they're going to fall out of the Blazer brass.

Has anyone else seen this kind of variance from one brand to another? I'm hoping there's nothing to be concerned about, here.

[jocko]

now u know not all brass,aluminum , steel casing are alike. load um up and sjust shoot um like u stole it..

[muggsy]

There is nothing to be concerned about. I prime with a lee priming tool and prefer the brass that requires less pressure to seat the primers. I've never had a primer fall out.

[MW surveyor]

Nothing to see here, move along, move along.

Nah, its normal to have some differences between manufactures.

[dkmatthews]

Nothing to see here, move along, move along.

Nah, its normal to have some differences between manufactures.

Sorry for posting about a non-issue.

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[Ikeo74]

Sorry for posting about a non-issue.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Wait a minute here. This IS an issue, but one that can be corrected. Let me help you. Cases that were manufactured with the primers being "staked", or "crimped" into the case with a factory crimp require different re-priming technique.

Steller and Beloit is one that I reload. The primers are crimped in. The other brands you mentioned probably are too. When you de-prime them it takes more force to eject the spent primer. Now that is only half the problem. You have to use a primer pocket reaming tool to remove the old crimp from the primer pocket. They are a cutting tool made for this purpose only and are mostly hand tools. They are like a screwdriver but with a reamer instead of a blade. They come in small primer size and Large primer size. So it you load both size cases you will need both sizes. Ream the hole 2 or 3 revolutions with the tool and it will remove the old crimp by cutting away the crimped brass. Then you can reload them with ease just like the non-crimped brands. So it is something to be concerned about and has to be addressed to reload those cases. I have been reloading 40 years. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/501588/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-small

[muggsy]

Crimped primer pockets can also swagged to remove the crimp. I was under the impression that crimped primer pockets are usually found only in military ammunition, but I could be wrong. I've only been reloading since 1975.

[Ikeo74]

Crimped primer pockets can also swagged to remove the crimp. I was under the impression that crimped primer pockets are usually found only in military ammunition, but I could be wrong. I've only been reloading since 1975.
If you ever loaded S&B cases and re-primed with the Lee Hand Primer, you had to have run into some cases that you couldn't get the primmer to go in without crushing the primer. Many of the Foreign Manufactured Ammo Brands are still crimped in.

[MW surveyor]

Sorry for posting about a non-issue.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 4 Beta


Hey, that was supposed to be a joke. :ohmy:

[muggsy]

If you ever loaded S&B cases and re-primed with the Lee Hand Primer, you had to have run into some cases that you couldn't get the primmer to go in without crushing the primer. Many of the Foreign Manufactured Ammo Brands are still crimped in.

I've never reloaded S&B brass. I haven't run into the problem with PMC, Blazer, Remington, Winchester, Speer or CCI.

[AIRret]

Haven't reloaded S&B but we have some tumbled, I'll have to pay close attention if we use that bunch for reloading.
After cleaning the brass I separate them by manufacturer, which hopefully will make any differences really stand out.

[CC Hoosier]

I know loose pockets can be a problem in revolvers. The new primer may back out a bit after firing stopping the cylinder from revolving any further.

[CJB]

Mugs is right, and I'll add there could be sealer too.

US ammo is usually not crimped at the primer, except for miltiary stuff.

However.... I've seen WWB that has been crimped on .45ACP, and seen that in years past as well as recently. I think I have some still, that I got about two years ago, that has a crimp.

Foreign ammo... you can't tell what they're doing half the time.

You can iron out the crimp or you can cut out the crimp, as it only effects the mouth of the pocket.

[AIRret]

Sorry for posting about a non-issue.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

When it comes to reloading there are no irrelevant questions.

You can't be tooooooooo careful!

[garyb]

I've never reloaded S&B brass. I haven't run into the problem with PMC, Blazer, Remington, Winchester, Speer or CCI.



That was exactly what I was going to say. Have not reloaded S&B, but have not had any issues with Rem, Win, Feds, etc...

[garyb]

When it comes to reloading there are no irrelevant questions.

You can't be tooooooooo careful!



Great point AIRret!

[garyb]

Haven't reloaded S&B but we have some tumbled, I'll have to pay close attention if we use that bunch for reloading.
After cleaning the brass I separate them by manufacturer, which hopefully will make any differences really stand out.



I have not started separating the brass, but I have thought about doing so if I find a manufacturer that loads differently enough from my standard brands (Fed, Win, Rem, etc...) that I suspect a potential problem may arise. Good point and something to think about doing.

[Ikeo74]

Every reloader should own a large and a small primer pocket reamer. (hand model) Ream the S&B and any other stubborn ones and the problem is solved.