PM9 Cleaning Question

[joelotto]

I have PM9 that I would like to clean...but not with any of the CLP products. I have one can of CLP that I tried and its more like an oil. I would like to use something to clean the gun that is more like brake cleaner and only has one job......clean. Once I get it nice and clean....then I will apply Weapon Shield.

So I'm looking for something in a can that I can use to blast away the crud....any ideas. :D:86:

[jocko]

I have PM9 that I would like to clean...but not with any of the CLP products. I have one can of CLP that I tried and its more like an oil. I would like to use something to clean the gun that is more like brake cleaner and only has one job......clean. Once I get it nice and clean....then I will apply Weapon Shield.

So I'm looking for something in a can that I can use to blast away the crud....any ideas. :D:86:

NAPA and ask for the 3M (black can) of non cholorinated high pressure brake cleaner. #08880. sells for under$3 bucks a can and it will not harm polymer and will clean with the high pressure that is in the can also place you never dreamed of. Just remember to reoil and or grease, as this stuff will clean right down to the metal. IT HARMS NOTHING.

I will advise with any spray cleaner, to put on a pair of rubber gloves for these cleaners will just take all the oil out of your hands. error on the side of caution, this goes for any spray cleaner..

[wyntrout]

Use that spray outdoors and wear eye protection while you're shooting into that hole in the slide's striker housing, pull the rear of the striker assembly back to let the crud blow out that way, in addition to the striker pin hole. The temporary discoloration, especially on the DLC finish, cleans off easily with a rag and a bit of oil.
There's tiny bits of copper and or brass that get into everything inside the slide and striker housing.
I took my P380 and PM45 slides apart last night for the first time. It's easy with the instructions on this forum and there's a link to a pdf file on GlockTalk. Make the "C" clamp out of a coat hanger and put the long arm in front of the striker hole/breech face while compressing the striker spring and guide with a screwdriver, then slip the small end of the clamp over the guide's head to hold the assembly in while getting the back plate off. Use a small jeweler screw driver to push the back plate pin for removal. It takes something stout. Just watch those little parts -- the striker spring and guide, AND the extractor parts -- there are four parts to the extractor assembly, including the pin in the back that holds the back plate on, after that, moving forward in the extractor "tunnel", is the spring, then the tension pin with different ends that presses against the ejector. Check out the diagram and see how those things go together. The ejector rotates in and forward for removal. The other three parts are put in from the rear hole with the slant cut on the extractors pin against the extractor. The striker safety block has to be in place before sticking those extractor parts back in. There's a cutout or notch on the outside of the safety block for the extractor parts to get by the block.
This is probably more than you wanted for now, but I just did this and had a bit of fun thinking I had vacuumed some of the ejector parts up while using it to suck the debris from the slide -- not a good idea. The extractor fell and I heard it and found it using an extension magnet pickup tool, but I thought the other stuff was in the vacuum, so I cut open the bag and went through it carefully with strong magnets, without success, so I checked the slide and the rear three parts were still inside the channel or tunnel. I straightened a large paperclip and used that to poke those out from the front to the rear. Assemble those three parts from the rear, after the extractor is in place and the striker safety block is in place, with the slanted end of the pin inward to rest on the extractor correctly.
I used 400-grit sandpaper -- the finest I had on hand -- to lightly go over the striker and check for any burrs or sharp edges, and then polished them with a Dremel-Like Tool (DLT).
Once you've done this successfully it's no longer a scary operation... with regard to the little parts. I thought that I would never do that, but I was having problems with possible light strikes in the PM45. It could have been the ammo, though. But I removed suspicions by checking those striker parts and it's housing carefully for debris or burrs.
Good shooting!
Wynn:D

[Bawanna]

Nicely done Wyn. Your are correct in that it's not nearly so scarey an operation after you've done it. Might be a little tense if you don't do it for a long time but once you've accomplished it you know you can do it again.
I really enjoy the sense of accomplishment and the feeling that I actually know how it all works, correlates with each other and what makes it all tick.
You can read and look at pictures but until you actually hold them parts in your hand or look for them on the floor and play with them its just not as clear.

I've cut open many vacuum bags, don't recall ever finding what I was looking for, usually in some obsure out of the way place but I always find it eventually. Guess it makes it part of the challenge.

Joelotto, you really don't have to do this operation although it certainly doesn't hurt anything. Using the brake cleaner or whatever you wish to use pretty much takes care of that striker channel area. As Wyn noted he had some issues and to his credit this was a good way to try and diagnose those issues.

[wyntrout]

I only had one other brief "scare". While compressing the PM45 striker spring and guide to put the C-clamp over it, the thing got away from me and I saw both parts shoot straight up -- the guide landed on the table and I saw the spring fall toward my range box, where I found it. Whew!
I scalloped the magazine catch on the P380 where the follower seemed to be catching and removed a bit of the slide lock and polished all of that. I hope this cures both pistols of any problems.
Dang! There's a radio announcement about the gun show this weekend. I need to get going. maybe I can swing by the range on the way home.
Later.
Wynn:D

[AFVet]

Cleaning my PM9 right now. I use CLP for the whole process. I spray it with CLP and clean it rather quickly. Then I spray it with CLP again and let it soak. After the soaking, I wipe it down with cotton patches. As the final step, I used a can of compressed air to blast the striker channel and other areas to remove the last of the CLP.

[In-Yo-Grill]

I'd be a little leery of getting that CLP in the striker channel. That combined with crud and brass flakes could be a light strike nightmare.

I use the brake cleaner to blast away the crud on my guns. It makes for a much more thorough clean when it's all said and done. Not to mention that it's a quicker way to clean.

[ripley16]

Just to have a different point of view...

I tend to avoid over complicating the cleaning process. I use several different cleaners, (they all seem to work well), a nylon bristle toothbrush style scrub brush, bore patches, Q-tips, and rags to clean all my guns. Typically these applicators and brushes when combined with a good cleaner remove any soot, dirt, grim or carbon my gun generates.

I avoid brake cleaners as they are geared to remove oil and grease specifically, and I'm of the opinion that metals "season", absorbing needed oils microscopically. In addition, I use Militec-1 conditioner, a product that I believe makes normal clean up go faster and easier, in addition to providing quality lubricious protection. I'm afraid brake cleaners would remove that protection. Using Militec-1, about all any part needs, is to be wiped off with a cloth, like the whole gun was teflon coated... hmmmm.

To finish off the job, any quality lube product will work fine, applied as needed and where needed. I usually use a daub of TW25b to any areas that show constant wear in addition to the oil.

Here is a link to a series of short videos produced by Sig that demonstrate typical pistol maintenace...some of the best I've seen on the internet.
SIG SAUER (http://www.sigsauer.com/CustomerService/MaintenanceGuides.aspx)

[recoilguy]

Nice Video thanks for putting it up! I don't use brake cleaner either, that doesn't mean you can't it just means I don't. I also dont use Mobil 1 oil on my gun either many do. I have used a CLP and weapon sheild and I have jest used a CLP. I too have a few cleaning aides and a can of compressed air. Good luck a clean weapon is a happy one!!!

RCG

[ripley16]

I also dont use Mobil 1 oil on my gun either many do.

I do use synthetic oils, but ones made for firearms. These are at least a better, more appropriate viscosity than most motor oils, IMHO.

[Kahrbon 14]

Never! use Wesson oil, I don't Kahr what Smith tells ya.

[ripley16]

Never! use Wesson oil...

I admit I've been tempted to use bacon grease, just because I love the smell of cooking bacon. :D

[jlottmc]

It tends to congeal, other wise in a minute. Olive oil is the same way.

[getsome]

Not sure but it seems that CLP and rem oil don't get along with each other... I once used both together on a S&W 686 revolver and the thing locked up and wouldnt turn the cylinder....Got a can of jocko's 3M brake cleaner and sprayed it down a couple times and all was well....The two products mixed together seemed to cause a chemical reaction and turned into a gooey sticky mess.....

[jocko]

well that is sure good to know. would not have thought that either. nice report..good info to.