K9 Trigger Question

[SGT5711]

I have a K9 with the NYPD trigger. I absolutely love this gun. It functions flawlessly and is a real tack driver. Even though I am completely happy with my K9, I'm wondering if I would like it even better with the elite trigger job. It can be sent to Kahr to have the elite trigger installed for $125.00.

Does anyone know what exactly Kahr does to install the elite trigger? I am wondering if I can buy the parts and have my trusted gunsmith perform the work. I thought I might be able to do it cheaper and quicker through my gunsmith. He is awesome and reasonably priced. Thanks.

[jocko]

also consider u gotta pay to sendit in and back to , so if ur smitty is as good as u say,then buy the parts and go for it.Is it worthit? Only u can determine that. If u call spending that money to gain1/8" less trigger travel then go for it. I hve thenypd trigger in my K9 and I would belying if I told u I can tell any differe3nce in my k9 and my PMJ9 with elite trigger. I shoot the K9 much better that is for sure.

It will notbring u a dime more on trade or sell, consider that also..

[b4uqzme]

I have a k40 and an mk9, both with the "elite" trigger and even they are slightly different...but I see that as no problem. I just shoot 'em like I stole 'em.

[SGT5711]

Good points, I forgot to add the $125.00 is for the trigger job and to ship it back. Shipping there would be additional $. Does anyone know what the trigger job entails? Is it only changing a spring? If that is the case, I'm sure my gunsmith could do it for under half the price. Might be worth it if I could do it that cheap.

[b4uqzme]

I could only guess --- a different cam that controls the length of pull? A call to Kahr would be your best bet to answer that question.

[SGT5711]

Good idea, thanks.

[jocko]

Good points, I forgot to add the $125.00 is for the trigger job and to ship it back. Shipping there would be additional $. Does anyone know what the trigger job entails? Is it only changing a spring? If that is the case, I'm sure my gunsmith could do it for under half the price. Might be worth it if I could do it that cheap.

change that I know of. I think it would be a different trigger and trigger bar,Kahr might if they do the job put in a new trigger spring but that spring is just a trigger return, not anything todo with travel. cocking cam is the same..

[FLBri]

It is a different trigger, trigger bar, and cocking cam. All of this relates to how quickly the trigger bar engages the cocking cam. The 'play' between that engagement point is where the added 1/8" of travel is. ON mine, the pull weight is noticeably stronger also... but that is easily changed if I wanted to.

I have 6 (or 7?) Kahrs and one of them is the older trigger. I notice it allot (no offense Jocko) but to be honest .... I'm not shooting matches with it. For it's intended purpose (defense) if I miss by 1/2" I'm still ok! Actually I shoot this gun at the range allot because as I learn trigger control with this gun ... and in .40 cal .... it makes the others like target guns.

[ripley16]

I happen to have a K9 that had the trigger job done, but because it was done by the original owner and not me I can't answer most of your questions. I can say that IMHO the difference between it and my older K9 is quite noticeable. Not only is the trigger shorter, but there is no slop, no creep, no wobble- just a glass smooth, constant pull until it breaks. I have a number of Kahrs and the K9 w/ trigger job, has the best trigger.

Is it worth it? If I intended to carry the gun for protection, I'd do it again, just to have the best gun I could afford. For a range gun... probably not.

[jocko]

I never new the cocking cam waschanged also.. learn sumpin new every day.

[FLBri]

I never new the cocking cam waschanged also.. learn sumpin new every day.

I read that somewhere ... doesn't make it gospel and I could certainly be corrected. Also add the trigger spring to that list.

[FLBri]

I read that somewhere ... doesn't make it gospel and I could certainly be corrected. Also add the trigger spring to that list.
My apologies

after my last post, and thinking about it mechanically, I did some more research. The cam is the same and mechanically that makes sense. The three parts are the Trigger, Trigger spring, and Trigger spacer.

What I would love to find, is a way to "add" material to the end of the trigger bar where it engages the cam. Even in the Elite trigger system there is a certain amount of "take up" before engaging the cam and the NYPD system has even more. If this gap was eliminated the reset would not be shorter ... but the pull length and break point would be. I've been thinking about this for a long time, and haven't come up with any answers using household solutions ... and not being a metal fabricator that's where my limit is. But I LOVE to tinker.

Can anyone think Of a way to permanently fix some rigid sheet metal to extend the blade of the bar closer to the cam? Would epoxy hold up?

[berettabone]

What??????????????????????????????????

[Planedude]

I think Greg has posted up about changing out the trigger parts in the older K9. A quick look for the post came up dry for me but you can search for it. I believe he changed three parts and got a much better trigger.

Then again Greg will most likely be along shortly with an answer. Maybe it's time for someone to do a K9 trigger post and make it a sticky??

I will be doing the trigger group someday in my NYPD trade in K9, but heck, life is busy and the gun shoots great as is...

[Ultona]

It is just 3 things, trigger, spacer, and trigger spring. Cam and bar stay the same. I think all the parts run about $30, so it is much cheaper than sending the gun in if you can do the work. I did mine a few weeks back. You'll need a rather robust hammer and a good quality tapered starter punch with a nice clean flat face to get the darn trigger pin to start moving. Don't grab a used punch unless you stone the face of it to make it nice and square, one with rounded edges will tend to slip off under the hammer blows and scratch your frame. Some say warming the frame or freezing it helps, I warmed mine a little, just be careful not to over heat it. It is tricky to get that spring/spacer assembly into the trigger in the frame and get the pin going through them, but take it slow and it can be done without scratches ect. I love my new Elite trigger, the old NYPD trigger had no definitive stop going forward and the old spacer was plastic and had cracked, so I pretty much had to do something anyway. New spacer is steel.

[Redfish]

I'm missing something here. Why would you want to add to trigger bar. Unless your model works differently from my PM. the trigger bar pulls rather than pushing. Seems like shortening it would be the ticket. Had what I thought was an idea for fixing it. Then looked at the photos of the breakdown and had to edit that out as I was wrong about how bar connects to cam.
My trigger complaint is the hook in the return spring that the trigger bar rides in. I can feel the vibration it makes when I pull the trigger. Tried every kind of lubricant I can think of to make it stop. It makes me wonder how long it will take before the trigger bar saws the end of the spring off.

[jocko]

I'm missing something here. Why would you want to add to trigger bar. Unless your model works differently from my PM. the trigger bar pulls rather than pushing. Seems like shortening it would be the ticket. Had what I thought was an idea for fixing it. Then looked at the photos of the breakdown and had to edit that out as I was wrong about how bar connects to cam.
My trigger complaint is the hook in the return spring that the trigger bar rides in. I can feel the vibration it makes when I pull the trigger. Tried every kind of lubricant I can think of to make it stop. It makes me wonder how long it will take before the trigger bar saws the end of the spring off.

not that trigger bar spring is not gonna get sawed off from use. U can take that side plate off ur kahr to get into that area a tad better and u can in that area where ur feeling some fricition with some 600+ grip paper just smooth it down a tad.

[FLBri]

I'm missing something here. Why would you want to add to trigger bar. Unless your model works differently from my PM. the trigger bar pulls rather than pushing. Seems like shortening it would be the ticket. Had what I thought was an idea for fixing it. Then looked at the photos of the breakdown and had to edit that out as I was wrong about how bar connects to cam.
My trigger complaint is the hook in the return spring that the trigger bar rides in. I can feel the vibration it makes when I pull the trigger. Tried every kind of lubricant I can think of to make it stop. It makes me wonder how long it will take before the trigger bar saws the end of the spring off.

Yes, the trigger bar "pulls" from behind the cam. If you add to the front edge of the blade (on the trigger bar) that contacts the cam, it will decrease, or eliminate the gap between them. This is the place that would be 'added' to ... NOT the bar length. If the gap is eliminated the pull would be shorter and the reset would be the same.

[gb6491]

I think Greg has posted up about changing out the trigger parts in the older K9. A quick look for the post came up dry for me but you can search for it. I believe he changed three parts and got a much better trigger.

Then again Greg will most likely be along shortly with an answer. Maybe it's time for someone to do a K9 trigger post and make it a sticky??

I will be doing the trigger group someday in my NYPD trade in K9, but heck, life is busy and the gun shoots great as is...
Hey, thanks for remembering that (http://www.kahrtalk.com/showpost.php?p=234353&postcount=25) :)


It is just 3 things, trigger, spacer, and trigger spring. Cam and bar stay the same. I think all the parts run about $30, so it is much cheaper than sending the gun in if you can do the work. I did mine a few weeks back. You'll need a rather robust hammer and a good quality tapered starter punch with a nice clean flat face to get the darn trigger pin to start moving. Don't grab a used punch unless you stone the face of it to make it nice and square, one with rounded edges will tend to slip off under the hammer blows and scratch your frame. Some say warming the frame or freezing it helps, I warmed mine a little, just be careful not to over heat it. It is tricky to get that spring/spacer assembly into the trigger in the frame and get the pin going through them, but take it slow and it can be done without scratches ect. I love my new Elite trigger, the old NYPD trigger had no definitive stop going forward and the old spacer was plastic and had cracked, so I pretty much had to do something anyway. New spacer is steel.
+1 on all of what Ultona wrote:yo:
Replacing just the trigger, spacer, and trigger spring with the current Elite equivalents resulted in a much better trigger on my buddy's early K9. The spring would have done the job by itself, but the current spring is too wide for his older trigger. http://www.kahrtalk.com/showpost.php?p=256705&postcount=4
Regards,
Greg

[jocko]

Yes, the trigger bar "pulls" from behind the cam. If you add to the front edge of the blade (on the trigger bar) that contacts the cam, it will decrease, or eliminate the gap between them. This is the place that would be 'added' to ... NOT the bar length. If the gap is eliminated the pull would be shorter and the reset would be the same.

it sure looks like a "jury rig" type of thing if u go messing with actually modifying he trigger bar. I would trust no adhesive, certainlyt a weld would possably weaken the bar itself. Sure sound slike bad scenario's to me:banplease: