PM40 replacing PF9

[peashooter]

I sold my KelTec PF9 about a month ago. I finally gave up on trying to get along with that long trigger pull. I've been carrying my S&W 40 Shield some. It's a fine gun, much better trigger, but it's a bit bulkier than I'm used to for concealed carry.

I tried a PM40 at a gun show this weekend. First time I've even had a Kahr in my hands. It's almost as compact as the PF9, and the trigger pull on it seems to be much better than the PF9, so I bought it. I got it all cleaned and lubed, and I hope to get it to the range this week to start checking it out as a carry piece. I'll see how it does with some of my reloads.

But there's a bonus. The PM40 fits in all my old PF9 holsters just perfect!

[O'Dell]

I sold my PF9 6 or 7 years ago and bought my first Kahr, a CW9. My problem with the KT was that it was very ammo finicky. Since then I have had six more Kahrs, and have been 100% satisfied with every one of them. I don't reload, and have never had any problems with Kahrs and factory ammo, but you might want to hold off on your reloads until the pistol is broken in. I used factory FMJ's on all my Kahrs for the first 100 rounds or so. Kahrs tend to be very tight at first, and may need some rounds to loosen them up a bit.

[peashooter]

My reloads are relatively mild FMJ, maybe 700 fps, pretty similar to WWB. You think that would be a problem?

[O'Dell]

I think Kahrs like relatively hot loads, especially when new, to fully compress the new stiff recoil spring and insure a full cycle. That's the reason they don't recommend "sling shotting" a new pistol, and suggest using the slide release and not limp wristing a new Kahr. The spring wears in fairly rapidly, and after that, weaker loads can be used successfully. Some people have had trouble with WWB and American Eagle ammo early on, because they are not strong loads. Personally, I haven't had any problems with 9mm, 40, and 45 Kahrs during break in, but a few have.

[b4uqzme]

+1

That's good advice from O'Dell. You probably won't have issue with the reloads in time but it's best to break your new gun in with factory ammo. If for no other reason than to eliminate that variable.

[garyb]

My reloads are relatively mild FMJ, maybe 700 fps, pretty similar to WWB. You think that would be a problem?

I reload very light for my PM40 too....5.4 to 5.5gr of Longshot under a 165gr FMJ. 6gr works fine too. I recently picked up 180gr FMJ's but have not tried them out yet because my reloader is all set up for the 5.5gr with 165's. I believe the Kahr is going to like the 180's better with a little less powder. Some folks complain about the PM40 being an obnoxious bulldog, but I've really liked the 40. It has a lot of range as far as being nice to shoot on the range with reloads, to being a real power house for SD with factory SD ammo. The CTL is a great addition for carry.

Check the prep thread and do it. Clean it, polish the feed ramp and Rack the slide a few hundred times to loosen it up. Give it a few hundred rounds to break in. Be patient with it at first. If you break it in properly, it will be an amazing performer for you. Good luck with it.

[garyb]

I think Kahrs like relatively hot loads, especially when new, to fully compress the new stiff recoil spring and insure a full cycle. That's the reason they don't recommend "sling shotting" a new pistol, and suggest using the slide release and not limp wristing a new Kahr. The spring wears in fairly rapidly, and after that, weaker loads can be used successfully. Some people have had trouble with WWB and American Eagle ammo early on, because they are not strong loads. Personally, I haven't had any problems with 9mm, 40, and 45 Kahrs during break in, but a few have.

I agree with O'Dell too. I did not mention this in my prior reply to this thread, but I'd break that spring in with food factory ammo or heavier loads before going to light puffy loads. My point was that it will (eventually) shoot the puffy loads very nicely, once broken in. Good point O'Dell. I am glad I read through your post to correct the confusion I may have put out there accidentally.

[garyb]

+1

That's good advice from O'Dell. You probably won't have issue with the reloads in time but it's best to break your new gun in with factory ammo. If for no other reason than to eliminate that variable.

Absolutely agree....and once I read this, I remember doing the same thing with my new PM40. I did the Jocko prep then I shot up about 500 rounds of Win white box. I never had one problem. Then I starting reloading puffy loads. I still shoot Win White box sometimes too, but I prefer my reloads. The Win White box more closely resembles SD ammo, so I shoot it to be practiced up on the heavier muzzle flip.

The only problem I have ever had with my PM40 was when I used brass shot from Glock unsupported barrel. The chamber is so tight, that any small bulge in the brass will not feed and you will get a very hard jam in the chamber that is difficult to eject. There is a prior thread about this with photos of showing Glock unsupported fired brass bulge, so beware of this when you load for your PM40. (If you can't find it, let me know and I will post the pics again in this thread.) The tolerances are very tight on this gun and it does not have the slop of some other guns.

Now I sort through my brass and select brass that has no bulge caused by Glocks. I even pull the barrel and hand fit each reload individually into the chamber of the barrel to be sure it will fit properly...with no bulge. I do not do this with the barrel in the gun for obvious reasons (in my home). It seems more prudent to simply pull out the barrel and hand fit each reload to be sure it will fit smoothly into the chamber...without any binding from a bulge. Seems like an unnecessary extra step, but it prevents jams on the range, now that I know what causes them. Just an FYI to reloaders for the PM40.

[garyb]

I found the photos of the bulged brass from an unsupported Glock. I posted these again so that you know what to look for when you start loading for your new PM40. Being aware of this issue and sorting these brass out of your PM ammo, will prevent hard feed jams. My Hornady LNL resizing die does not take this bulge out, due to the location of it on the brass. You may have a resizing die that will correct this bulge. I have heard such dies exist, but I found it just as easy to sort out this brass and use it in my S&W M&P40 which takes a slightly heavier load (6gr of Longshot under 165gr FMJ's).
Just an FYI to you new PM40 reloaders.

[peashooter]

There does seem to be more roughness and friction in the slide than I'm used to. I'm keeping it out next to me on the desk, and every few minutes, I pick it up and work the slide some.

I hate to shoot up all my factory ammo. It's so danged hard to find right now. If my current crop of reloads give me a problem, I'll just have to load up some hotter ones.