PM9 Breaking in Ammo Question

[cigarrodog]

Hello. I'm having shipped 4(50 count) boxes of Blazer Brass 9mm 124Grain FMJ for the break in. Does that sound ok? I was having a tough time sourcing ammo. When I get to the range, I'll look for other types of ammo. I'm sure you all have heard of gunbot.net. It looks like a cool ammo search site. Forgive me, just one more question. I also saw Buffalo Bore 9mm+p(not +p+). Any consensus of opinion on that? Thank you so much.

[Xdmac45]

Blazer is good stuff in my cw9 ,the buffalo ammo should be top notch stuff but I bet cost lot more , I'm using buffalo bore in my 38 smith nothing better IMO .

[CJCM9]

I'm not sure what kahr says about +p in their guns. Most manufactures either recommend no using it or using it sparingly due to excessive wear.

As far as Blazer, that will be fine. I have been using lower quality ammo in mine with no issues. I have been using 115gr and not 124gr. Other than a little more recoil, there should be no issues. I have heard that some people have issues with the slide not fully cycling when using 115gr ammo and when using 124gr, the issue cleared up.

After my second day at the range yesterday, what a great gun and I'm amazed how accurate I can be with it.
Enjoy.

[muggsy]

No manufacturer recommends using +P+, but +P is ok'ed by Kahr. Blazer brass should work just fine for the break-in. I recommend cleaning and lubing the gun after shooting the first 100 rounds. Clean guns run better.

[JimC]

PM9 Breaking in Ammo Question

When firing a semi-auto pistol for the first time, I prefer a full power FMJ round to eliminate any problems stemming from bullet configuration. I also prefer nothing lighter than 124 gr.

The first 100 rds. thru my PM9 when it was new were Win. 124 gr. FMJ NATO spec rounds which are loaded 10% over the industry standard but not quite a +p loading. They were 100% in my PM9. This round has always been good for my in any 9mmx19 pistol new or used.

After that, I fired an assortment of 325 rds. of full power or +p ammo in both FMJ and HP bullet design.

Except for two magazines splitting that day, my PM9 functioned 100% and I considered it broken in.

Range Report (http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7755)

I'm not a big Blazer fan, aluminum or brass cased, but if they work for you, by all means use them.

[CJCM9]

I recommend cleaning and lubing the gun after shooting the first 100 rounds. Clean guns run better.

And definitely clean it VERY well before shooting it. I think Kahr dips the whole jun, including the mags, in motor oil before shipping them.

[berettabone]

I used Fiocchi for my breakin, 115gr................didn't have a problem until I switched over to Blazer at about 150 rds.....had 2 ftf's which I don't consider serious, but I think the Fiocchi is a bit snappier than Blazer, so I attributed the FTF's to that.

[jocko]

Hello. I'm having shipped 4(50 count) boxes of Blazer Brass 9mm 124Grain FMJ for the break in. Does that sound ok? I was having a tough time sourcing ammo. When I get to the range, I'll look for other types of ammo. I'm sure you all have heard of gunbot.net. It looks like a cool ammo search site. Forgive me, just one more question. I also saw Buffalo Bore 9mm+p(not +p+). Any consensus of opinion on that? Thank you so much.

wrongwith blazer brass, many will say nuttin wrong with blazer aluminum either, I would suggest never goin over board on any brand until u hgave tested it in smaller quantites. Some guns are ammo picky. Most all kahrs are not.

+P ammo is perfect for all kahrs, alittle expensive IMO for range fodder but certainly for carry a good way to go. Most here will tell you Golddot 124 hp is very good and most popular to. The only thing with some of the over thecounter range fodder even american made is it tend sto be loaded lighter to cut cost so breaking in a new gun with a new recoil spring COULD possable prohibit slide locking open on the last round. But that soon goes away after 200 rounds. I have shot WWBfrom wal martin 100 pak since I bought my PMJ9 and it works perfect, priced better than any ammo I couldever find to and American made kand brass,although I don't reload anymore. I have shot blazer aluminum and have had zero issues. I have had issue with Tule ammo in my K9 if u can believe that sh!t. My local walmart now seems to be getting a good supply of 9mm ammo every day..
Find the brand of defense ammo that works 100% andis availalbe in ur area and IMO just stick with it, as ur gonna get a dozen different recommendations from this forum and all are good..

Most every khar owner will tellu kahrs are tighter than hell at first, and then add to that new stout recoil springs etc, and u might just get some feed/reliability issues in thge first 200 rounds. This will go away real fast, but if it bothers u, then IMO shoot +P ammo from the git go. They will work the action the way it is designed to be worked. Most all owners will report after a few 100 rounds that they feel like they have a totallydifferent gun. Everything seems to smooth out so nicely with the BANG thing happening. U can sit there and hand rack ur kahr a few hundred times and help it somewhat fro the git go withut the BANG thing happening, but nuttin beats the ol BANG. Just sayin:amflag:

[cigarrodog]

Thanks all.

[340pd]

After cleaning it I would rack the slide a hundred times or so by hand as well as load all your mags and let them sit a day or two before you shoot the gun.

[wyntrout]

I'd say about 20 racks and then SHOOT it for a real break in. Blazer-anything is good. I prefer the 124-grain full-bore ammo and I usually get the aluminum-cased Blazer cheaper in all calibers. The lighter 115-grain stuff doesn't work all pistols hard enough for proper action.

Wynn:)

[muggsy]

And definitely clean it VERY well before shooting it. I think Kahr dips the whole jun, including the mags, in motor oil before shipping them.

+1 Every new gun should be cleaned, inspected and lubed before shooting it for the first time.

[cigarrodog]

Thank you one and all for your responses. I've got my Gun Scrubber, Ballistol, and Militec-1. I've racked and racked like crazy. Just about ready to do the "Bang" as jocko would say. Much appreciation. I wish to also express my deepest appreciation to all those who have served our country; past present, and future.

[gmcjetpilot]

I have heard that some people have issues with the slide not fully cycling
when using 115gr ammo and when using 124gr, the issue cleared up.
Enjoy.I think some people have a misconception about bullet weight, that light
bullet equals less recoil. That is not exactly true. Bullet weight is only one
factor in recoil and how the gun cycles.

1) Newton's Law... For every action there is an opposite and equal reaction.

2) 9mm has max energy by design, and weight of bullet is one factor;
however gun powder is the other factor and max pressure the brass case
is limited to.

3) I load my own 9mm Ammo. When you load lighter bullets you use
MORE powder, and they can have higher muzzle velocities than ammo
with heavier bullets. Muzzle energy is a function of bullet Wt. and velocity.

4) Due to limits of the ammo brass to not exceed max pressure, you
must lower the amount of powder you use with heavier bullets. There is a
trade off and limits. Brass can suffer overpressure and it will cause cycle
issues in your gun.

5) 115Gr ammo can have MORE muzzle velocity than 124Gr bullet and
muzzle energy. See #1 above, recoil is equal and opposite of muzzle
energy, minus what the gun absorbs by it's weight times accelerating
backwards (recoil/flip) and cycling the guns mechanism.

6) If you allow the gun to MOVE too much, "limp wrist" it, energy that
would go into the machine (gun) to cycle the mechanism is wasted. You
have to hold a pistol firmly so energy can be used by the gun to cycle.

Bottom line you can't look at 90Gr, 115Gr, 124Gr or 135Gr 9mm ammo
and say the lighter weight ammo has less energy.... you have to look at
the energy out the muzzle. In general a lower weight bullet gets more
propellant (gun powder) and can have significantly higher velocities.

[muggsy]

I think some people have a misconception about bullet weight, that light
bullet equals less recoil. That is not exactly true. Bullet weight is only one
factor in recoil and how the gun cycles.

1) Newton's Law... For every action there is an opposite and equal reaction.

2) 9mm has max energy by design, and weight of bullet is one factor;
however gun powder is the other factor and max pressure the brass case
is limited to.

3) I load my own 9mm Ammo. When you load lighter bullets you use
MORE powder, and they can have higher muzzle velocities than ammo
with heavier bullets. Muzzle energy is a function of bullet Wt. and velocity.

4) Due to limits of the ammo brass to not exceed max pressure, you
must lower the amount of powder you use with heavier bullets. There is a
trade off and limits. Brass can suffer overpressure and it will cause cycle
issues in your gun.

5) 115Gr ammo can have MORE muzzle velocity than 124Gr bullet and
muzzle energy. See #1 above, recoil is equal and opposite of muzzle
energy, minus what the gun absorbs by it's weight times accelerating
backwards (recoil/flip) and cycling the guns mechanism.

6) If you allow the gun to MOVE too much, "limp wrist" it, energy that
would go into the machine (gun) to cycle the mechanism is wasted. You
have to hold a pistol firmly so energy can be used by the gun to cycle.

Bottom line you can't look at 90Gr, 115Gr, 124Gr or 135Gr 9mm ammo
and say the lighter weight ammo has less energy.... you have to look at
the energy out the muzzle. In general a lower weight bullet gets more
propellant (gun powder) and can have significantly higher velocities.

+1 What gicjetpilot said. Couldn't agree more. You can't argue physics.