Ultrasonic case cleaning

[muggsy]

How many of you are using an ultrasonic case cleaner and what brand of cleaning fluid are you using in it? Being from the stone age I'm still using a tumbler. Any tips and tricks would be appreciated.

[garyb]

I've been looking into them too, but still using my tumbler. I see there are a number of manufacturer solutions out there for brass cleaning. I have not been able to justify the expense and I "think" I will continue to find it easier to use the tumbler material vs spilling the liquids when I put them away. I don't really have the space to leave the liquid medium out all the time. I hear they work well on removing stains on the brass.

[muggsy]

My LGS owner is heavy into reloading and uses an ultrasonic cleaner on brass and for giving gun parts a thorough cleaning. He claims it saves him time and a lot of manual labor. Of course he sells ultrasonic cleaners, so he might be just a tad prejudice. :)

[RRP]

Of course he sells ultrasonic cleaners, so he might be just a tad prejudice. :)

And which model does he recommend?

[techiede44]

I have and like the Hornady Magnum cleaner... chose it a couple of years ago due to its capacity, 2 transducers, heater and long run times.


It's the only case cleaner that I use.

[mr surveyor]

when I took up reloading three years ago I was determined not to have a tumbler. I didn't want to find space to store it or the media. I remembered having a small ultrasonic tub bought in 1983 for cleaning my drafting table ink pens that I haven't used since AutoCAD completely took over my map making needs in 1994. I dug it out along with the granulated cleaning solution (no ammonia) and gave it a try on some pretty grungy brass that I had already deprimed. Was amazed that only 15-20 minutes would do the necessary cleaning, but 30 minutes to an hour would completely clean out the inside, the primer pocket .... every surface. Over the first year of using it I also found that plain old cheap white vinegar, mixed 50/50 with tap water and a couple drops of dishwashing soap did just as well or better than my old "pen cleaning solution". I've about got all my money's worth out of that one, and will probably be on the hunt for another in the next year. Still have no need for the corn cob machine. They may polish up the outside, but that just don't get the grit out of the primer pocket/flash hole or the inside of the case most of the time. Now, the "pin tumbler" sounds like a really good idea to me. I may check that out next.

JD

[muggsy]

My LGS has the Hornady, but he'll sell you anything that you want. I've heard that the water, vinegar and dish washing soap mix out cleans most of the commercial cleaners. I made a primer pocket cleaner out of an old surplus fan motor by placing a collet on the shaft that holds a primer pocket brush. It's faster than cleaning the pockets manually, but still time consuming and it takes up work space. An ultrasonic cleaners sounds like the way to go and I can see one in my future.

[Bob T]

All very interesting. I've been using a tumbler since the '90s, but have been thinking about changing to an ultrasonic unit.

How much should one expect to spend to get a decent unit?
And how do you remove the liquid cleaner from the brass, or do you not have to?

[garyb]

I can see where the ultrasonic cleaners have the advantage of cleaning out the inside of the brass and primer pockets better than a tumbler AND working faster. Good points. Purchasing an ultrasonic cleaner may be something for me to consider in the future. I guess I should start looking into this more closely.

[DLButler]

I have used an Ultrasonic cleaner since I started reloading about 3 years ago. I have a cleaner I got from Harbor freight and use Lyman Sonic cleaner for the solution. The machine is exactly the same as the one Lyman puts their name on but is cheaper to buy. I can run a couple hundred thru the bath in about 10 minutes, rinse with tap water and then use a blow dryer to speed the drying process while the next batch is cleaning. I just did a quick Google and Optics Planet is selling a Lyman package of the machine and 2 bottles of Lyman Sonic for $115. The solution lasts a long time. I make up about a half gallon at a time and can clean thousands with that amount. You mix it at between 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce per 20 ounces of water. Mine always come out looking good and the entire process per batch is less than 15 minutes.

[garyb]

I have used an Ultrasonic cleaner since I started reloading about 3 years ago. I have a cleaner I got from Harbor freight and use Lyman Sonic cleaner for the solution. The machine is exactly the same as the one Lyman puts their name on but is cheaper to buy. I can run a couple hundred thru the bath in about 10 minutes, rinse with tap water and then use a blow dryer to speed the drying process while the next batch is cleaning. I just did a quick Google and Optics Planet is selling a Lyman package of the machine and 2 bottles of Lyman Sonic for $115. The solution lasts a long time. I make up about a half gallon at a time and can clean thousands with that amount. You mix it at between 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce per 20 ounces of water. Mine always come out looking good and the entire process per batch is less than 15 minutes.


Good info...Thanks for your post. I'm always looking to learn anything new and useful from someone. It is very refreshing. No one knows it all, but I get especially tired of folks who throw out emotional garbage without anything solid to back it up. This was helpful info and Thanks again.

[Bob T]

I have used an Ultrasonic cleaner since I started reloading about 3 years ago. I have a cleaner I got from Harbor freight and use Lyman Sonic cleaner for the solution. The machine is exactly the same as the one Lyman puts their name on but is cheaper to buy. I can run a couple hundred thru the bath in about 10 minutes, rinse with tap water and then use a blow dryer to speed the drying process while the next batch is cleaning. I just did a quick Google and Optics Planet is selling a Lyman package of the machine and 2 bottles of Lyman Sonic for $115. The solution lasts a long time. I make up about a half gallon at a time and can clean thousands with that amount. You mix it at between 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce per 20 ounces of water. Mine always come out looking good and the entire process per batch is less than 15 minutes.

Very good info....Thanks!:)

[RRP]

I have used an Ultrasonic cleaner since I started reloading about 3 years ago. I have a cleaner I got from Harbor freight and use Lyman Sonic cleaner for the solution. The machine is exactly the same as the one Lyman puts their name on but is cheaper to buy. I can run a couple hundred thru the bath in about 10 minutes, rinse with tap water and then use a blow dryer to speed the drying process while the next batch is cleaning. I just did a quick Google and Optics Planet is selling a Lyman package of the machine and 2 bottles of Lyman Sonic for $115. The solution lasts a long time. I make up about a half gallon at a time and can clean thousands with that amount. You mix it at between 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce per 20 ounces of water. Mine always come out looking good and the entire process per batch is less than 15 minutes.

So I took your advice and visited the Harbor Freight site. The Ultrasonic Cleaner is currently on sale for $82.99. After applying a 25% discount code, good today only, I paid $62.24 (plus shipping of $6.99) for this unit.

Good deal. Thank you!

PS: Discount code is 56060818

[mr surveyor]

one thing to add .... if your brass isn't too grungy to run through the sizing die (with decapper) first, you're good to go on flushing the primer pocket/flash hole in the U/S cleaner. When I started loading .30-30's, and wanting to thoroughly clean that brass, I bought a universal decapping die and have since been using that to deprime all my brass before "washing". I've noticed that my sizing dies don't get quite as dirty now.

[Bob T]

one thing to add .... if your brass isn't too grungy to run through the sizing die (with decapper) first, you're good to go on flushing the primer pocket/flash hole in the U/S cleaner. When I started loading .30-30's, and wanting to thoroughly clean that brass, I bought a universal decapping die and have since been using that to deprime all my brass before "washing". I've noticed that my sizing dies don't get quite as dirty now.

Good idea. Right now I run my brass through the tumbler before sizing/decapping to keep the dies clean, but then I have to clean the primer pocket afterwards.

[garyb]

one thing to add .... if your brass isn't too grungy to run through the sizing die (with decapper) first, you're good to go on flushing the primer pocket/flash hole in the U/S cleaner. When I started loading .30-30's, and wanting to thoroughly clean that brass, I bought a universal decapping die and have since been using that to deprime all my brass before "washing". I've noticed that my sizing dies don't get quite as dirty now.

Excellent point Mr Surveyor. I could do this on my LNL AP press on the first station prior to cleaning the brass. Which brings up a question. Currently I am only loading 40 cal. Soon to reload 380. I do not reload for rifle (yet). I do not deprime my 40's before I tumble. I have not had any problems reloading the 40's this way. However, perhaps there is some advantage to depriming my 40's before I tumble them? Curious what folks have to say about this...again keeping in mind that I don't deprime before tumbling now and I have had no problems. Thanks for the input.

[Bob T]

Excellent point Mr Surveyor. I could do this on my LNL AP press on the first station prior to cleaning the brass. Which brings up a question. Currently I am only loading 40 cal. Soon to reload 380. I do not reload for rifle (yet). I do not deprime my 40's before I tumble. I have not had any problems reloading the 40's this way. However, perhaps there is some advantage to depriming my 40's before I tumble them? Curious what folks have to say about this...again keeping in mind that I don't deprime before tumbling now and I have had no problems. Thanks for the input.

I don't think it makes much difference when using a standard tumbler. If I tumble my brass after depriming the primer pocket still needs to be cleaned. But looking ahead to an ultrasonic cleaner, I understand that will clean the pocket.

[muggsy]

Been doing a lot of research on the subject. A home made cleaner that out performs the brand name products can be made using four parts water, one part vinegar and a tsp of dish washing liquid. Since vinegar is acidic some suggest a rinse cycle in water with baking soda added to neutralize the acid. Also if you're tired of paying $5 a pound for tumbling media go to your local pet supply and buy bird or reptile litter. It's the same exact product, but it costs just a dollar a pound. You can rejuvenate your media by adding a cap full of liquid car polish to it. Nu finish was recommended. Adding a package of .177 BBs to the media will also improve its performance. Who'da thunk it?

[garyb]

Good reference on the cleaner. I'll remember to come back to your post when I do get my ultrasonic unit. Liquid car polish in the tumbler media is good info too. Currently using up the liquid supplied with my media purchase. Thanks.

[downtownv]

I have used an Ultrasonic cleaner since I started reloading about 3 years ago. I have a cleaner I got from Harbor freight and use Lyman Sonic cleaner for the solution. The machine is exactly the same as the one Lyman puts their name on but is cheaper to buy. I can run a couple hundred thru the bath in about 10 minutes, rinse with tap water and then use a blow dryer to speed the drying process while the next batch is cleaning. I just did a quick Google and Optics Planet is selling a Lyman package of the machine and 2 bottles of Lyman Sonic for $115. The solution lasts a long time. I make up about a half gallon at a time and can clean thousands with that amount. You mix it at between 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce per 20 ounces of water. Mine always come out looking good and the entire process per batch is less than 15 minutes.
Son of a Gun! They are identical!

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lyman-Turbo-Sonic-2500-Ultrasonic-Case-Cleaner-110-Volt-7631700-New-/360819605887?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item540286417f

I did the fluid conversions, IDENTICAL
Plus theres a 25% off coupon!

Now that that's a game changer getting one tomorrow....
How do you know when the cleaning fluid needs changing?
How long do you run it for?

Can you spread them out (rinsed( on a cookie sheet at 200 degrees to dry them?

[downtownv]

Been doing a lot of research on the subject. A home made cleaner that out performs the brand name products can be made using four parts water, one part vinegar and a tsp of dish washing liquid. Since vinegar is acidic some suggest a rinse cycle in water with baking soda added to neutralize the acid. Also if you're tired of paying $5 a pound for tumbling media go to your local pet supply and buy bird or reptile litter. It's the same exact product, but it costs just a dollar a pound. You can rejuvenate your media by adding a cap full of liquid car polish to it. Nu finish was recommended. Adding a package of .177 BBs to the media will also improve its performance. Who'da thunk it?


Muggsy who knew you'd have such an intriguing post with the simple U/S cleaning Question?
Glad you hit on it!

[garyb]

He's obviously been cleaning up his act.

[muggsy]

Son of a Gun! They are identical!

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lyman-Turbo-Sonic-2500-Ultrasonic-Case-Cleaner-110-Volt-7631700-New-/360819605887?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item540286417f

I did the fluid conversions, IDENTICAL
Plus theres a 25% off coupon!

Now that that's a game changer getting one tomorrow....
How do you know when the cleaning fluid needs changing?
How long do you run it for?

Can you spread them out (rinsed( on a cookie sheet at 200 degrees to dry them?

I was told that you change the fluid when it gets dirty. Hell, even I could have figured that one out. Here's another tip that I haven't tried. You can purchase a lingerie bag at Bed Bath and Beyond. It's a zippered mesh bag that the ladies used to wash their unmentionables. You can hang it inside of the dish washer and run your brass through a wash and rinse cycle. I'm thinking of trying it the next time Mrs. Muggsy is out shopping. I'm told that it works in a top loading clothes washer, too. I'm telling you this is getting way too, easy.

[garyb]

Cool. Let me know how it works and I won't let the brass out of the bag to Mrs. Muggsy...pun intended. Wouldn't it be great if that worked. Can you imagine if the bag ripped.... Whoops! I'd be willing to bet that if I told my wife I was thinking about trying the dish washer or washing machine for my brass OR buying a $85 ultrasonic cleaner, she might even order it for me....Hmmmm. You are doing good homework Muggsy!

[downtownv]

You can purchase a lingerie bag at Bed Bath and Beyond. It's a zippered mesh bag that the ladies used to wash their unmentionables.

I bought a 2 pack of these at wally world as I sweep up my brass theres a lot of dirt with it, so I toss the swept brass into one of these mash bags churn it up a bit; dirt gone, brass ready for the tumbler err should I say my new Ultrasonic....;)

[DLButler]

Downtown, I have never tried drying in the oven. The hair dryer is probably faster because the air is moving.

I have tried the vinegar mix when I first started but
1) The vinegar would clean but you needed a second solution ( I think baking soda to stop the acid) and a third to shine.
2) The normal U/S solution is a one pass system.
3) I use Lee Carbide dies and don't seem to have a problem with the decapper/sizer getting dirty. I do all of my loads on a single stage Lee press.

[Bawanna]

I do not deprime before tumbling. The primer pockets just get clogged up with media.

I do deprime if I do the ultra sonic. I tried a small unit my wife has for jewelry, she didn't like it much, said it didn't work. I found she was just using water which isn't gonna do much.

i really don't like messing with the wet, handling it, drying it, waiting etc.
Since I use a progressive there's really no provision for cleaning the primer pocket which I always used to do with my single stage. I've been thinking of just depriming a whole bunch, doing the ultra sonic thing and then feeding the progressive. Might just do that every 3rd or 4th loading.

Even without cleaning the pockets I've not had any ignition issues but I like to know they are clean.

[muggsy]

Muggsy who knew you'd have such an intriguing post with the simple U/S cleaning Question?
Glad you hit on it!

I'm full of surprises downtownv. Sometimes I even surprise myself. And Jocko tells me that surprises isn't the only thing that I'm full of. Why, you ain't seen nothin yet.

[DJK11]

About the tumbling media; if you use walnut shells pick it up from HF at $25 for a 25 lb. box.
www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-coarse-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92150.html

[mr surveyor]

I don't wait for a reloading session to do my brass mantainence. After a range trip my spent brass gets deprimed and tossed into the u/s cleaner to run while I'm cleaning up the guns. When I'm done with the guns, I rinse off the brass in plain old tap water (the acetic acid in vinegar ain't that strong), then i9f I want it "bright" for some silly reason I'll dump it into another coffee can with Birchwood Casey's Brass Case cleaner for a couple of minutes, then rinse it again - with plain water. The BC cleaner is a mild phosphoric acid that will shin brass up, but isn't necessary.

Soaking a big batch of brass in the vinegar solution for a day or so takes off most of the crud, but doesn't compare to the 20-30 minutes in a u/s cleaner. Another good soak that seems to be very popular is citric acid (unsweetened lemon Kool-Aid is a known substitute) that's supposed to be on the grocery shelf in the canning section .... never found it myself. Also the dishwashing stuff called "Lema-Shine" (sp) is supposed to be composed mostly of citric acid and said to be a very efficient brass cleaner. I've just been happy with the cheap jugs of white vinegar and dishwashing liquid, so haven't really gone searching for anything else.

Since my brass gets cleaned long before I need it, the next day or so after it's thoroughly dried on an old towel, it gets run through the sizing die and the expander die and boxed up .... sometimes it gets primed as well. I never have cans, bags or boxes of dirty brass. It's all clean, sized and flaired (usually primed) ready for powder and bullets when I decide what I want to load. Reloading day for me is really nothing more than dropping powder and seating/crimping bullets. Between the 5 calibers I load for, there's always a couple thousand pieces of brass ready for powder and bullets.:)

[downtownv]

I'm full of surprises downtownv. Sometimes I even surprise myself. And Jocko tells me that surprises isn't the only thing that I'm full of. Why, you ain't seen nothin yet.


Please show us that trick where you touch your eyebrows with your tongue!


No really, this is a great thread.... Thank you.

[downtownv]

I have 5 gal buckets of brass ready to reload, so I'm never in an urgent need for the newly cleaned stuff. I would assume any moisture would be problem in the reloading process.
Heel i make Venison Jerky at 200 degrees or less, and that extracts 99% of the liquid from the meat....

[downtownv]

I was using a single stage de-primer (Lee) to save some of the messiness from stage 1 on my Dillon progressive press. Then found that it was a PIA to de-prime 500-1000 cases and i wasn't re-tumbling, just putting them through the 4 stage loading process anyhow.

[downtownv]

Does any one tumble their finished rounds?
I put them through a separate corn cob media tumble....

[Tinman507]

We use corn cobs differently here in the sticks

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KmdyG-UF5w0/TwhWUjEaqxI/AAAAAAAANkM/g0ZCn6hrba4/100_0745_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800

[muggsy]

The acid in the vinegar isn't strong and it won't harm the brass, but it can cause the brass to become discolored. I always rinse my brass to maintain the shine. The brass will dry in about two hours in an oven set to 150 degrees.

Rifle brass can be sauteed in butter to avoid the necessity of lubing cases. A little garlic or onions seasoned to taste. Pam is a great nonstick lubricant and a good substitute for case lube. (Just kidding about the sauteed brass and Pam. Some people will believe anything.) :)

[garyb]

Funny! Reloaders do some crazy $%1t. Better without the onions.

[downtownv]

Hmmmm brass infused with garlic and onions, sautéed in butter! :hungry::hungry::hungry:

[downtownv]

Funny! Reloaders do some crazy $%1t. Better without the onions.
If you talk to non gun people they would think we're crazy for making ammo!:der:

[muggsy]

Aren't we?

[downtownv]

Un official Lab report:
So I grabbed a u/s from Harbor Freight. Took a coffee can full on my already "Dillon tumbled" brass and ran it for 3 min then 8 min w/heat and cleaner.
No marked improvement. Next test will be a full can of fired/dirty brass see if that cleans up like the tumbled...

[mr surveyor]

why only 3 minutes and 8 minutes? Do you "tumble" for only 3 and 8 minutes? Give it at least 15-20 minutes to see noticeable results. I let mine go sometimes for an hour before I remember to shut it off, and do that anyway for brass I get from friends that's old enough when they finally shoot it there looks like black shellac in the primer pockets. The really grungy brass takes a bit more time anyway.

[garyb]

Aren't we?

Probably so.

[muggsy]

About the tumbling media; if you use walnut shells pick it up from HF at $25 for a 25 lb. box.
www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-coarse-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92150.html

Another good tip. This post is on a roll.

[muggsy]

why only 3 minutes and 8 minutes? Do you "tumble" for only 3 and 8 minutes? Give it at least 15-20 minutes to see noticeable results. I let mine go sometimes for an hour before I remember to shut it off, and do that anyway for brass I get from friends that's old enough when they finally shoot it there looks like black shellac in the primer pockets. The really grungy brass takes a bit more time anyway.

Most USCs Time out at eight minutes. Generally one or two cycles are all that is necessary with once fired brass. The down and dirty brass that Bawanna uses make take more time. :)

[Bawanna]

So your saying I'm a scavenger. I guess I kind of resemble that.

The little unit I tried timed out several times on me too. I think that kind of turned me off on it. I suspect a larger unit would help immensely.

I'm also again thinking about the old Thumblers tumbler I used to have. it was like a drum with a bunch of wing nuts, not to be confused with Kahr nuts. Pain in the backside to load and empty.

But I'm think if I loaded one of those with a vinegar solution and some sort of media it would do a good job. The primer pocket would be the big question. If it doesn't clean that it wouldn't be worth the extra effort.

Also I was shocked how much those tumblers sell for. I gave the one I had to a friend of my moms after I got a vibrator type which works well. Heck it might work with solution too.

[muggsy]

My Thumler's tumbler is working on some .357 brass as we speak. If you're really nice to me I may include you in my will, Bawanna.

[DLButler]

I generally run my US for 1 cycle of 8 minutes, rinse and dry. With the Lyman solution it comes out shiny and clean.

[downtownv]

Back from the dead....
So I bought the model from Harbor freight Chicago tool (Lyman maker)Took my already tumbled brass and they didn't look any better.
Swept up some of my fired brass. the other day and WOW they came out better than my tumbled ones!
I was on the fence to return it but now , it's a keeper!
Question? What gun parts can I throw in there? Can I put the barrel and Slide in or do I need to disassemble any part of the slide?
Thanks for the info.

[muggsy]

I think that you would be safe putting any gun part in the bath, but I'd exercise extreme caution using heat on the polymer parts. Might want to test it on your tooth brush first.

[CJB]

I've got an old...very old, first edition in fact... Lyman Orange tumbler, that still does the job, and I think I've only changed the media in there once since the early 1980's.

Hint: You can soak your cases in most any solvent - acetone, naphtha, etc... to de-grease them, then do a soak in ammonia, and they're bright and shiney and clean and good to go. You really don't need to stir them much at all either. Don't leave 'em in the ammonia too long, as with very strong ammonia there could be erosive effects.

Ammonia gets brass and copper out of barrels, and it will clean up dirty copper. Take a recent penny thats dark, and put it in ammonia. Even a recent, plated, penny will brighten. In fact it takes DAYS or WEEKS to get through the plating on a penny (I know I've tried) with normal household ammonia. But, that penny will be bright in just a short time (overnite).

Just sayin

[DJK11]

Picked up the HF US cleaner and tried the 1-4 vinegar/water/soap concoction. It worked great cleaning brass combined with the tumbler and walnut media.

Then I cleaned, with trepidation, my P380 using the same clean solution. Instant oxidation on the springs and cocking cam. The vinegar was the problem. Water and soap worked great on the other pistols.

[mr surveyor]

I've got an old...very old, first edition in fact... Lyman Orange tumbler, that still does the job, and I think I've only changed the media in there once since the early 1980's.

Hint: You can soak your cases in most any solvent - acetone, naphtha, etc... to de-grease them, then do a soak in ammonia, and they're bright and shiney and clean and good to go. You really don't need to stir them much at all either. Don't leave 'em in the ammonia too long, as with very strong ammonia there could be erosive effects.

Ammonia gets brass and copper out of barrels, and it will clean up dirty copper. Take a recent penny thats dark, and put it in ammonia. Even a recent, plated, penny will brighten. In fact it takes DAYS or WEEKS to get through the plating on a penny (I know I've tried) with normal household ammonia. But, that penny will be bright in just a short time (overnite).

Just sayin

wow.... I have never, ever heard anyone propose the use of ammonia of any kind, or any exposure rate, on brass

if you're comfortable with it, o.k. ...... I don't want ammonia anywhere near my brass

[CJB]

Its not really a big deal with ammonia, which is why I said try it on a copper plated penny and see how long it takes for brand new bottle ammonia to wear away the plating. I long time. Seriously, if you soaked the brass in it, you'd have bright brass before any real sort of change in dimension ever occurred.

On a side note - Two years ago, I rebuilt 26 irrigation controllers for The Floridian golf course. Each controller had 17 circuit boards that were immersable. I set up a heated parts washing tank, filled it with 10 gallons of household ammonia and set to work. Boards got stripped from cabinets, with so many screws I had to use my 1/4 inch drive air ratchet fitted with a long #2 bit. Then they all got soaked in the ammonia while I took everything else apart, washed the cabinets (ant and lizard gunk galore), and painted the metal parts with rust reformer. When the paint was drying, I rinsed the boards in a bucket of cold water from the hose, and blew them dry with air. Set in the sun for 15 minutes, while I was putting the painted parts back in the cabinet, then all the boards got reassembled. There were over 1400 switches that got immersed - all with copper contacts. All were rejuvinated, except one switch. Ditto for ribbon cable connections, and all of those came out perfect. In fact all the copper traces came out great.... everything was darn near like new, and I also put a light layer of conformal coat on the boards as I put 'em back in (it dries almost instantly). No issue with ammonia. Thats where I experiemented with the pennies in hot 105 degree ammonia. Took literally days to erode what amounts to a copper-wash on zinc.

At the gun range, where we did upwards of several million rounds reloaded yearly, ammonia was always tossed into the tumbler to help brighten up the brass quicker than media alone.

It works.

[mr surveyor]

and what about the fact that ammonia reacts with the tin in the copper/tin alloy (brass) on the molecular level. Yep, it will brighten the copper, and brighten the brass ... but I tend to believe the metallurgists that claim it does remove enough of the tin atoms to cause premature hardening of the brass - resulting in case failures.

Like I said Bro, you can use ammonia on your cartridge brass if you want to. I'll just stick to mild non-reactive acids to get my brass clean.

No flaming intended, just my opinions


surv