Finally found a CW9 with a trigger I like!

[2tango2]

I had posted a little while ago that I was in the market for a CW9 to go with my CW380. The issue I was having was finding a CW9 that had a trigger that was the same as my CW380. All the ones I had been trying seemed a bit lighter and felt like they fired as an afterthought when the trigger reach full travel

Well out today on my usual weekend LGS in the area rounds ( we have a new Bass Pro Shops to add to the mix now as well ) and on my last stop the LGS had a used CW9 for 299. Asked to look at it and the trigger is the same as my CW380 though just a tad different ( will explain below). Came with a 7 and 8 round mag

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/02/be6eju5e.jpg



It is in decent shape. There are a couple of marks on the slide if you look really hard but really not noticeable. I gave it a good cleaning with MPro 7 and lubed it with Rand CLP


Couple of questions for those more familiar with Kahrs than myself. The serial # starts with EJ4. Any ideas on the age of this gun? Also I have noticed 2 things that I didn't notice while in the shop. While pulling the trigger there is a click right before the "firmer" part of the trigger pull takes place. I compared it to my CW380 and there is no click. Is this something Kahr would fix and I wonder if they honor warranties on used guns? Secondly the slide stop pin seems too large lol.... I need a screwdriver to leverage it out and really needs some extra elbow grease to re insert

Other than that I'm thrilled to have found a CW9 with a trigger pull/release that I like. The feed ramp is like a mirror so the previous owner must have done a nice job on it


Really interested to hear any ideas on the age of the gun and the click in the pull


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[codegeek]

I doubt Kahr would fix the trigger if it ain't broken. It is possible the pistol has the reduced springs from Galloway.

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[Tslepebull]

Sounds like you got a real deal. The second magazine is $32 or so and it sounds like somebody else has bought the ammo for the break-in. Personally, I always try to purchase used just for that reason. My EH series was new in 2012 so I would suspect 2011 production on yours. The tight slide stop just means it hasn't been taken down very often. My CW9 is still tighter than my new CW380. I got nothing on the click. If it goes off every time don't fret about it.

[DavidR]

Good deal. The slide stop is tight on my CW9 which has been taken down about 6 times. It has loosened up but I still use a screwdriver to leverage it out.


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[kerby9mm]

I have always heard a click on any gun whether it is a hammer or a striker fired gun. When my mk didn't click the striker assembly had to be replaced. Have you checked to see if there is a firing pin/ not trying to be funny it should have a click.

[2tango2]

I have always heard a click on any gun whether it is a hammer or a striker fired gun. When my mk didn't click the striker assembly had to be replaced. Have you checked to see if there is a firing pin/ not trying to be funny it should have a click.


The click I'm talking about is not the actual firing of the gun.....it is when you start to feel the take up in the trigger

Broke gun down and can see it is a little wire pin for lack if a better word along the right hand side if the gun tv at is clicking off the frame when trigger is pulled. If I put pressure on it with a finger while firing I don't hear noise. I'll try to get a pic of it. Another member here described the same issue to me and Kahr fixed it

[jocko]

sounds like it is the trigger bar spring. can u put a tad of grease right there and see if that settles things down. I doubt if kahr will address it, and if u can see the issue, then more than likely u can fix it to.

[2tango2]

Should I put the grease right where I see the spring sticking up?

[AnnieO]

Yes, give it a try. My CW9 and PM9 both have a faint click that I believe originated from the trigger bar area. In both cases I applied some high temp grease (the red kind) and alas, both are now completely silent. YMMV, but both of mine run like tops, always have. Just yesterday I put another flawless 100 rounds down range in the CW9. Good luck.

[CJB]

There are a few things can go click as you pull the trigger.

Think of this - the trigger bar is pulling the striker rearward, and the recoil spring assembly is pushing the slide (with striker in it) forward. The two springs will interact, and its not uncommon to have just a wee bit of slide movement as the trigger is pulled. This can alter the relationship of the cam to the striker, or striker block, and/or alter the relationship of the trigger bar to the cam and/or frame. All those parts are interconnected and under spring stress, so when one moves... it can shift things a little.

Trigger bar spring... shoot it and that will become a non issue.

One thing I'm delving into is the stricker block and cam relationship... seems we got some cams that lift too high or maybe some striker blocks that are too long or some slides whose striker block cutout is too shallow.

Whats going on - is the cam lifts the block, and then tops out the parts, pressing the slide upward. At that point, with the trigger to the rear fully, you cannot easily cycle the slide. I'm not sure what the proper correction is - it may be just a simple cam alteration, or it may be relieving the inside of the striker block. The slide is too comlex to do any home alteration on in that cutout.

The more I look at this issue - it could be a reason we have triggers that when pulled rearward do nothing. Imagine a striker block with crud under it, it tops out prematurely, and the trigger is limited in its travel because of that.

Mental note - always make sure there is full movement of the striker block.

[2tango2]

I have some TW25 grease, I'll try that Annie. Did you put it right where you can see the top of the trigger spring?

The click is def coming from there. If I look down at it you can see the top of the spring traveling rearward for just a fraction and then it releases and clicks or flicks forward. This is where click is coming from

I want to take the panel off the right side and see if something as simple as taking it off and back on fixes it. What size Torx is this?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/03/mu3a5asu.jpg


Also noticed this on my slide stop spring. I wonder if this is why so much pressure on slide stop pin inserting and taking out. Does this look right?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/03/une3azy4.jpg


Ran a box of Federal Champion through it today no issues. 1 failure to feed with a box of Blazer Aluminum. Tullamo Brassmaxx was fine until the last round in every mag. It would not feed the last round except for once or twice. Some rounds would not even load no matter what. I attribute it more to the ammo than gun

I will say that the CW9 does snap more than my Shield, m&p 9c or my XDS 9.

The trigger feels heavier than my CW380 and not as smooth. I shot the 380 more accurately than the CW9 as well

The click does bug me a bit so hopefully I can get it cleared up. A Talon grip is also being ordered for it! Youch lol


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[jocko]

size 6 torx. that little half moon in part of the trigger bar. really not a spring. What I think could be happeing is and u should. take that side plate off. easy done, nuttin is gonna fall out and u will see a curcly cue spring that has a loop in it that the trigger bar slides on. this has been before a place where one feels a click. as there could be a ruff spot on the trgger bar. Just put some TW254 (whch is MO the best grease u can ever buy) on that area where that little spring rides uder that trigger bar. and that back area showing that half moon, I always put TW25 there. U might also look at the slide where that little half moon rides in and see if there is a ruff spot on that slide. If so, just smooth it off and ur good to go.

Your slide stop spring is perfect. don't fokk with it. but again I put a dab of grease on that spring on the tip and the back side where the pin hole opening is. Helps the release to go in easier..

IMO I see nuttin wrong with your gun and I would bet even in time that click will dissappear as thing wear in more smoother, but u can enhance those areas easily.

In looking at that half moon part on the trigger bar, is that grease on the half moon or is that some ruffness? If it is ruffness, then it cold be coming right from that area. Just gently file that ruffness down and smooth it up and grease it. Ut not huring a thing. U can do it all with the trigger bar in place, as u can't take that bar out easily, so don't try it.. It looks ruff at the top, kinda like turned over metal..

[2tango2]

Thanks Jocko! At harbor freight getting some stuff now :)

[AnnieO]

Jocko is right on, as usual. I'd be shocked if your "click" persists after following his recommended protocol. Way back when I applied the grease to both of mine the click was immediately and permanently solved, never to be heard again.

[RRP]

If you shoot enough, the click goes away. In fact, so does the sound of song birds and crickets, the purr of the cat, and the whine of your wife.

[2tango2]

Added some grease there and it didn't seem to help. I made a You Tube vid that I'll post in a new thread. I didn't detect any rough areas on the slide itself Im not sure how many rounds are through the gun as a I bought it used so no ideahow long click has been there. I did examine the trigger bar spring after I removed that panel. I will explain my findings in my new thread