How difficult is it to replace a trigger bar on a CW9.

[2tango2]

My CW9 has a notch or divot on the trigger bar that creates a clicking noise whenever I pull the trigger. It happens when the trigger bar spring slides across the bar. I can see it and feel it with my finger nail

I wrote Kahr and Ian replied with an email apologizing for the trouble I'm having. Gave me an RMA number and a link on where to send gun.....no paid mailing label etc

I replied asking if this was something covered under warranty or not. My serial number starts with EJ so not sure if still in warranty or not.


If they aren't going to cover it it seems more economical to buy the parts and do it myself providing it isn't a bear to do. I seem to recall someone stating to be careful with the trigger bar as if it comes off the trigger it is really hard to get back in place.


Thoughts?


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[2tango2]

Ok Ian replied it will be a warranty repair providing that no outside work has been done on it. ( which it hasn't)

However no return label was provided....I've never returned anything to Kahr for repair but is it normal to have to pay for shipping on a repair?


I asked for a pre paid label, I guess I see what he says


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[Bawanna]

Shipping isn't part of the warranty although often times they do cover the shipping. If he declines to send a shipping label, you might have your local shop mail it for you. They can ship much cheaper than an individual.
More options.

[gb6491]

The length of the trigger bar that the spring rides on is accessible after removing the side plate. If it were my pistol, I'd be inclined to remove the side plate and address the issue (file/sand/polish/whatever it takes) without removing the trigger bar.
http://i62.tinypic.com/xf6b6h.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2rzxgmh.jpg
Regards,
Greg

[2tango2]

Thank you for the diagram...I'd love to be able to sand, polish or whatever the trigger bar except I think it is a little divot as opposed to a burr....see in your first pic......right to the left of where the trigger bar spring rests on the bar? You can see a little recessed spot or divot.....that's what I believe is on the underside of the bar causing the click. I'm afraid if I try to file etc and not successful that Kahr will deny any warranty claim...

30 something to ship myself back to them is tough to swallow especially when I got a good price on the gun in the first place


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[gb6491]

Thank you for the diagram...I'd love to be able to sand, polish or whatever the trigger bar except I think it is a little divot as opposed to a burr....see in your first pic......right to the left of where the trigger bar spring rests on the bar? You can see a little recessed spot or divot.....that's what I believe is on the underside of the bar causing the click. I'm afraid if I try to file etc and not successful that Kahr will deny any warranty claim...

30 something to ship myself back to them is tough to swallow especially when I got a good price on the gun in the first place


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I understand your concern about voiding the warranty.
So, I'm not try to convince you to do otherwise, but as your issue is a "clicking noise" it may not be necessary to completely remove the divot
A light polish to break the edges of the divot might be enough to make the noise go away. The spring is going to shine that area up anyway, so a little polishing would not be that visible. You could try applying a little grease to the area to see if the noise goes away. Tweaking the spring a bit might help as well.

I've had to send firearms back to various makers for repair. Some provided shipping labels, others didn't. My local shop will ship something I bought from them if I don't get a label. For any others, I've paid out of pocket and as you know FedEx and UPS policy is shipment via their expensive, over night services.

Regards,
Greg

[2tango2]

I understand your concern about voiding the warranty.
So, I'm not try to convince you to do otherwise, but as your issue is a "clicking noise" it may not be necessary to completely remove the divot
A light polish to break the edges of the divot might be enough to make the noise go away. The spring is going to shine that area up anyway, so a little polishing would not be that visible. You could try applying a little grease to the area to see if the noise goes away. Tweaking the spring a bit might help as well.

I've had to send firearms back to various makers for repair. Some provided shipping labels, others didn't. My local shop will ship something I bought from them if I don't get a label. For any others, I've paid out of pocket and as you know FedEx and UPS policy is shipment via their expensive, over night services.

Regards,
Greg
Thanks for your reply and advice

Take a look at these pics and maybe you can see what I mean

The first pic is with no pressure on the trigger and the bottom of the trigger bar spring resting in an area of the bar before it transitions or slides when the trigger is pulled. What happens when you pull the trigger is it catches on the bar and makes a clicking noise. You can see in the 2nd and 3rd pic on the difference or change in surface on the bottom of the trigger bar. I just don't see how this could be polished out

To me I think a new trigger bar is needed and it just doesn't sit well with me having to spend 30 bucks to send it back for a warranty repair. No other manufacturer makes you pay to send back an item for warranty work afaik.

I wondering if sending these pics to Ian may sway him for a prepaid label....maybe not....

Thoughts on the pics ?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/10/ymyre2en.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/10/ma3ameru.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/10/e9y9unu8.jpg

[berettabone]

Looks like it could be polished out easily with a dremmel.......................small soft cone tip, and some rouge.................................

[2tango2]

Looks like it could be polished out easily with a dremmel.......................small soft cone tip, and some rouge.................................
Which part? The lower part to right or higher part to left?

Sorry to sound like such a novice. I haven't used the Dremel all that much so it would be new to me as funny as that sounds or weak lol

[yqtszhj]

You dont really want to take out the trigger bar. Been there done that. It can be done but its some work. Take a piece of 600 or 1000 grit sand paper and polish by hand where the spring rubs. That will do it without a dremel. That fine of grit will put a shiny finish on it and not remove material. I did that to a cw45 on a lot of metal to metal surfaces and its SMOOTH!

[Bawanna]

Somebody confirm for me but I don't think the spring itself is difficult to take out and reinstall. Note how it is oriented and it's just a matter of depressing the top curve, clearing the bar and lifting it out. The bottom sits in a groove with a hole for the end to drop into.

Greg or somebody that's had one out tell me if I'm right or wrong.

[BEARDOG]

You are correct Col.B. Its real easy to remove the spring. I have had mine in and out of the CM45 3-4 times now getting my issue worked out.

[yqtszhj]

Exactly as beardog and B-Man said. Comes out easy.

[2tango2]

I found out it was easy to take in and out without meaning to lol


Here is a short vid. You can see the trigger bar spring starts to catch ever so slightly before it clicks and releases




(http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6jIi6hz88uU&feature=youtu.be)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jIi6hz88uU&feature=youtu.be&app=desktop

[gb6491]

I found out it was easy to take in and out without meaning to lol


Here is a short vid. You can see the trigger bar spring starts to catch ever so slightly before it clicks and releases




(http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6jIi6hz88uU&feature=youtu.be)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jIi6hz88uU&feature=youtu.be&app=desktop
I was going to suggest just polishing the edges of the trigger bar at this spot:
http://i59.tinypic.com/30lmmps.jpg
However, after watching your video it occurred to me that you might be able to resolve this by tweaking the spring slightly.
My thought is that you bend the spring is a manner that changes where the end that lifts the trigger bar engages the trigger bar with the trigger forward. Here's a snapshot from your video to illustrate a possible bend (in red) that would position the spring's end past the problem area (red arrow) with the trigger forward.
http://i61.tinypic.com/2urmkvs.jpg
My major concern with bending the spring in this manner is making sure that the spring's end does not go past the large step at the rear of the trigger bar when the trigger is fully to the rear.
Regards,
Greg


Edit: I just saw that BEARDOG had already suggested doing the spring thing in another thread...darn, I'm slow.

[2tango2]

Your concern is well founded. I did previously tweak the spring a bit as you illustrated and the first shot I took it slid off the back end effectively ending that range session lol. The spring has quite a bit of tension and doesn't move too easily. Seems like everytime I try to move it just a bit it pops back

[gb6491]

Your concern is well founded. I did previously tweak the spring a bit as you illustrated and the first shot I took it slid off the back end effectively ending that range session lol. The spring has quite a bit of tension and doesn't move too easily. Seems like everytime I try to move it just a bit it pops back
I'd smooth that spot on the trigger bar down then. A little careful work on the edges there probably wouldn't look much different from what the spring has already done to the bar.
Regards,
Greg

[yqtszhj]

Greg has now been given the status of photo instruction Guru. :amflag:

[2tango2]

He sure does make it easy :)

[2tango2]

I'm going to buy an Arkansas stone from Midway as I did use the 400 and 600 paper and while it helped, it isn't as good as I'd like

What is the max height of a stone I can get and still get it comfortably in the spot I need to? Is 1/4 inch too tall? I see they have this one bit I think it might not fit

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/16/eja8e4ed.jpg

This one is a bit more but thinner

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/16/gage3a8y.jpg

Never used a stone before......tips?

[gb6491]

I'm going to buy an Arkansas stone from Midway as I did use the 400 and 600 paper and while it helped, it isn't as good as I'd like

What is the max height of a stone I can get and still get it comfortably in the spot I need to? Is 1/4 inch too tall? I see they have this one bit I think it might not fit....

Never used a stone before......tips?
I hardly use "stones" anymore (the exception being Japanese water stones for sharpening knives).
For all other uses, I like EZE-LAP hones (get mine on eBay):
http://i58.tinypic.com/rj4f1t.jpg
http://eze-lap.com/hunting_fishing_outdoor_use/hone-stone/
..or diamond files:
http://i58.tinypic.com/14ndyjp.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/vsdl09.jpg
http://www.amazon.com/PIECE-MEDIUM-SIZE-DIAMOND-FILES/dp/B000UCREE8

For what you are doing, use the stone (or what ever you get) like you would an emery board on your fingernails. Natural stones work better with a little cutting oil or water (depending upon stone type) applied to the stone's surface. For this type work, you can usually do without the oil on a synthetic stone. Diamond hones/files work as they come.

Speaking of emery boards, they would probably work for what you need to do.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ELIO0A
see photo with color/grade chart here: http://knifeforums.com/forums/showtopic.php?tid/884787/
...even the drug store/grocery store/department store variety would be worth a try.

Regards,
Greg