Got My R1 Back From Remington (Warranty Work)

[CC Hoosier]

I sent my R1 back to Remington for feeding problems. These are the things they fixed:

1. Broken Firing Pin Plunger Lever (replaced)
2.New Barrel Bushing (It was binding)
3.Tightened Loose Plunger Tube
4. Replaced Recoil Spring
5. Stoned and cleaned trigger slot (I mentioned a slightly "gritty" trigger pull on repair order)

From reading on 1911 forums, Remington has had issues with FP Plunger Levers as do Colts and others. After I become literate with 1911's 70's and 80's series, I'll modify my Remington R1 with better FP Safety Assemblies or convert it back to a 70's series using a shim. >>> http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/frame-parts/frame-hardware/fillers/tj-s-1911-series-80-to-series-70-conversion-shims-prod13121.aspx

This stuff is all new to me, but from what I gather there are better parts for this assembly that aren't MIM parts. They can all be replaced for 48 bucks>>> http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=CS0003

I will be testing the repair in a couple of weeks. I may have damaged the Plunger Lever when re-assembling it. I'll be aware next time. Any suggestions or comments are all welcome here!

[Bawanna]

I didn't know anybody made a 80 to 70's FP Safety Assembly. Good to know.

I put a wide spur hammer on my R1 prior to shooting it the first time. I had no issues and the trigger is pretty good. My bushing does bind also but only when hand racking the slide. Let the slide down semi easy and it won't go into battery. Just a little shake and it drops in.
I figure it will improve with more rounds. It never balks or fails to go into battery shooting.

I've been carrying it lately every day since it proved itself.

[CC Hoosier]

"I didn't know anybody made a 80 to 70's FP Safety Assembly. Good to know."

From what I gather, the 80's FP Block Safety is just thrown out and the shim is used in its place to keep everything working properly.

[Bawanna]

"I didn't know anybody made a 80 to 70's FP Safety Assembly. Good to know."

From what I gather, the 80's FP Block Safety is just thrown out and the shim is used in its place to keep everything working properly.

That's the way I read it too. Basically just a spacer to keep the sear from shifting etc.

[gb6491]

"I didn't know anybody made a 80 to 70's FP Safety Assembly. Good to know."

From what I gather, the 80's FP Block Safety is just thrown out and the shim is used in its place to keep everything working properly.
That's correct: the shim replaces the levers in the frame while the block and spring are just removed from the slide.

I'm of the opinion that most issues with the FPS levers on the Remington, Colt, other "Series 80" 1911s are caused by folks damaging the lever when installing the slide. If the lever is up, it's possible to push the slide back with enough force to damage the lever or, in extreme cases, shear it off.

I look forward to reading your range report on the repaired R1.

Regards,
Greg

[muggsy]

That's the way I read it too. Basically just a spacer to keep the sear from shifting etc.

I could use something to keep my sear from shifting. Unless you've had your sear shift you don't know how painful that can be. Try saying that 3 times fast. :)

[CC Hoosier]

That's correct: the shim replaces the levers in the frame while the block and spring are just removed from the slide.

I'm of the opinion that most issues with the FPS levers on the Remington, Colt, other "Series 80" 1911s are caused by folks damaging the lever when installing the slide. If the lever is up, it's possible to push the slide back with enough force to damage the lever or, in extreme cases, shear it off.

I look forward to reading your range report on the repaired R1.

Regards,
Greg

Hey Greg! I haven't been back for awhile to give a report because I've been too busy getting frustrated with my new Remington R1. I'm the type of person that becomes totally obsessed UNTIL the gun is working flawlessly. That means besides going to work and sleeping my mind is on making my guns work PERFECTLY. So I research until I come up with a "possible" and "feasible" solution to the problem. My Kahr CM9 and Glock 27 are sooo boring now because they have been both 100% reliable out of the box!

After getting my R1 back from Remington, I took it to the range shooting my same old 185 SWC's. The first mag was 100% FTF. They fed into the chamber BUT the slide fell a 1/4" inch short of full battery. I had to pound the slide forward in order to get it home so it would fire. Again, the last round laid on top the mag with the slide locked back as well. I turned around and left for home. I wasn't about to shoot 200 rounds like that!

I began taking things into my own hands. I found out the new bushing they put on was ALSO binding the barrel. After researching, I found out that many 1911's barrels actually flare at the muzzle a couple thousands of an inch for a tight lockdown and accuracy. Therein lies my "main" problem with this gun. Either the barrel OR the bushing MUST be fit to one another! My barrel was being "gouged" by the over-tight bushing! My inexperienced brain began to think what I could do to correct this problem with the limited tools at hand.

1) I owned nothing to alter the ID of the bushing, but in the garage I found 600 grit sandpaper next to my cordless drill. BINGO! I took some cheese cloth I use to clean my guns and wrapped it around a 3/8 '' bit then crammed it into the chamber of my barrel. I then braced the drill in one hand while wrapping the sandpaper tightly around the barrel in the other and sanded until the bushing fell freely down the entire barrel including the muzzle. That slide has NEVER worked so smoothly before!

2) I was now after TOTAL smoothness. I began racking the slide very slowly trying to find the tiniest bit of resistance or friction then finding out why and where the problem was. The hammer was also riding the slide. There could be a couple of reasons for this, but again using ONLY the tools at hand, I decided to sand and polish the hammer where it was coming in contact with the slide. BINGO! I did not take off all the material needed to stop the hammer from riding the slide because it would have been an 1/8 ''. I did take off at least a 32nd, however then polished it.

4) I then lightly polished the top of the disconnector.

5) I polished the feed ramp removing ALL horizontal machine marks.

6) I worked up enough nerve to disassemble down to the extractor to adjust the tension. It also was too tight.

7) I ordered 1000 200 grain Lead Round Nose Boolits

I just came back from the range after shooting 150 rounds of handloads---50 with 4.5 grains of Green Dot and 100 with 7 grains of LONGSHOT with an OAL of 1.190 - 1.220. I AM ECSTATIC! The Remington R1 just proved to be as reliable and SMOOTHER than my Kahr or Glock. I LOVE SHOOTING THIS GUN! For the 1st time since I had purchased this gun, it is 100% RELIABLE and a PLEASURE to shoot!

I also have installed Pierce Finger Grips and Remington Panels : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044XL3SM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Together, they thickened the grip beautifully and comfortably.

NEXT: Skeletonized trigger and hammer with a beavertail grip safety!!!!!!!!!!!! YIPPEE!!!!!!!!!!!! ;)

[b4uqzme]

Thanks for the tips CCH. I have a 1911 that could benefit from some "smoothing". Glad she's running so well for you now.

[Buzzard45]

Happy to hear your R1 is running good. My R1 Enhanced has been smooth as silk from day one, and with the 70 conversion, so is the reassembly.

[CC Hoosier]

Thanks for the tips CCH. I have a 1911 that could benefit from some "smoothing". Glad she's running so well for you now.

Not a problem. I've learned plenty from the good folks here...a lot of knowledgeable handgunners here ar KahrTalk and great bunch of guys!!!

[CC Hoosier]

Happy to hear your R1 is running good. My R1 Enhanced has been smooth as silk from day one, and with the 70 conversion, so is the reassembly.

I'm thinking of converting my R1 to 70, myself. Mine will be looking closer to the Enhanced model when I'm done with it. I was one of the unlucky few who got a "bad" gun. 2 buddies bought an R1 after me without any problems. If it'll shoot 185 grain SWC's, it'll shoot anything. I'll be testing it out again soon with the SWC's. I have learned a lot already about 1911's since mine was less than perfect.

[CC Hoosier]

Happy to hear your R1 is running good. My R1 Enhanced has been smooth as silk from day one, and with the 70 conversion, so is the reassembly.

I'm thinking of converting my R1 to 70, myself. Mine will be looking closer to the Enhanced model when I'm done with it. I was one of the unlucky few who got a "bad" gun. 2 buddies bought an R1 after me without any problems. If it'll shoot 185 grain SWC's, it'll shoot anything. I'll be testing it out again soon with the SWC's. I have learned a lot already about 1911's since mine was less than perfect.

[Bawanna]

I wondered why you didn't just get the Enhanced from the get go. I got the R1 because I didn't want the extras, the beavertail and the trigger. Wanted to have one closer to the originals and I love it.

With just a little better sights than the originals and the ejection port opened just a tad, it's got everything a guy really needs.

[gb6491]

CC Hoosier,
Thanks for the update! I appreciate the time and effort put into that post.
Congrats on getting your R1 running correctly. Your methods might be a little unorthodox (though I understand necessity driven), but you got-er-done.
Please keep us in the loop as you continue to tweak it.
http://oi59.tinypic.com/35d3tld.jpg
Regards,
Greg

[CJB]

From reading on 1911 forums, Remington has had issues with FP Plunger Levers as do Colts and others......

This stuff is all new to me, but from what I gather there are better parts for this assembly that aren't MIM parts.....



Hate to break the news, but the firing pin plunger lever is stamped, no MIM or anything else for that matter. Both levers are stamped. I suppose someone could IC or MIM them, but why? They're no different than any other stamping.

I know, if you don't get the order of placement right, you can get a gun that wont go bang - FP fails to unlock because lever fails to lift.

Gritty on Series 80 -
a. FP plunger gritty feeling (hardly ever the levers)
b. Disconnector drag in its recess in the slide (you can round it better, get a better feel)
c. Trigger drag in the slot, but not so likely on a factory trigger, as they're fit rather loose and sloppy in the slot
d. Sear spring drag on disconnector
e. Trigger drag on grip safety

and other stuff, I'm sure!

[CC Hoosier]

I wondered why you didn't just get the Enhanced from the get go. I got the R1 because I didn't want the extras, the beavertail and the trigger. Wanted to have one closer to the originals and I love it.

With just a little better sights than the originals and the ejection port opened just a tad, it's got everything a guy really needs.

That was my original intention. I wanted a 1911 with a good name that didn't break the bank. I wasn't planning on doing anything to it other than shooting it. Once I started reading about how to fix things and all the other possibilities and add-ons, It sort of became my tinker toy. I never had a dremel or a set of punches, but I do now. It's nice just to see how this gun works and how Browning turned pieces of steel into a finely-tuned shooting machine. Pretty amazing really.

[Bawanna]

Excellent way to go about it and your doing it well. Be damn careful with that Dremel though, it's a wonderful machine but I find it just makes it so easy to screw things up really really fast.

It really is amazing. John Moses is my hero.

[CC Hoosier]

CC Hoosier,
Thanks for the update! I appreciate the time and effort put into that post.
Congrats on getting your R1 running correctly. Your methods might be a little unorthodox (though I understand necessity driven), but you got-er-done.
Please keep us in the loop as you continue to tweak it.


http://oi59.tinypic.com/35d3tld.jpg
Regards,
Greg
I'll be sure to do that. "Unorthodox" is the perfect word. Taking material off the hammer face probably wasn't the smartest thing to do. Hardened steel is only hardened on the surface. After a few thousands deep, the steel underneath is normal steel. I can see the imprint of the firing pin sightly when shining a light on the surface. I was planning on changing out the hammer anyway.

[Bawanna]

At Gregs recommendation I put a Auto Ordnance wide spur hammer in mine and I love it. You won't be able to do that if your talking about a beavertail safety though.
It dropped right in on mine and passed all the safety checks with flying colors. Works well.

Wide spur hammer, stag grips, now if I could get it color case hardened I'd feel she's complete.

[CC Hoosier]

At Gregs recommendation I put a Auto Ordnance wide spur hammer in mine and I love it. You won't be able to do that if your talking about a beavertail safety though.
It dropped right in on mine and passed all the safety checks with flying colors. Works well.

Wide spur hammer, stag grips, now if I could get it color case hardened I'd feel she's complete.

I remember seeing your photo. The stag grips with the wide spur hammer give it that Western Look. Very Nice! I'm going to try making mine into a one-of-a-kind Commander-Style. I'm after a 3 1/2 lb crisp trigger pull with an i/8th of an inch movement before it fires. It's close to that now being stock (around a 5-4 !/2 lb slightly gritty pull) I'll probably attempt to work on the existing trigger group first and if I mess it up, I'll purchase an entire competition/match trigger group. I found a Colt black skeletonized beveled hammer I like on Ebay, The Wilson black "drop-in" beavertail that fits the R1 closely and I'm still undecided on the skeletonized trigger (black nylon or silver aluminum). Hopefully, the new hammer won't ride the slide. Does your wide hammer ride the slide at all?

[gb6491]

I'll be sure to do that. "Unorthodox" is the perfect word. Taking material off the hammer face probably wasn't the smartest thing to do. Hardened steel is only hardened on the surface. After a few thousands deep, the steel underneath is normal steel. I can see the imprint of the firing pin sightly when shining a light on the surface. I was planning on changing out the hammer anyway.
Steel can be hardened all the way through or surface/face/case hardened (which is what you you describe). Keep an eye on the hammer, but it's not a bad thing if it's a little softer than the firing pin; being a little softer it's less likely to peen/mushroom the end of the firing pin (which can lead to failures to fire and lost parts).
Regards,
Greg

[CJB]

Colt hammers are generally like an igloo full of eskimos. Crunchy on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside. I have ruined and learned.... in the day.... many Colt hammers gone to my education.

Aftermarket hammers.... in my experience.... are made of tough, but not particularly hard, material.

That is, a file will slide off a Colt hammer's face. But bit and cut a tough hammers face. Colts hammer notches are not hardened, but tough. Aftermarket the same. I think the concern from Colts is the not the hammering of the hammer, but the sliding of the slide on the surface - its abrasive properties.

[CC Hoosier]

Steel can be hardened all the way through or surface/face/case hardened (which is what you you describe). Keep an eye on the hammer, but it's not a bad thing if it's a little softer than the firing pin; being a little softer it's less likely to peen/mushroom the end of the firing pin (which can lead to failures to fire and lost parts).
Regards,
Greg

Hey Greg,

I ordered a black AT! nylon trigger, a Wilson black beavertail safety, and a black beveled skeletonized hammer from Ebay. i took my
1911 down to the bare bones and put it all back together with the help of a step-by-step video. I polished the disconnector, the trigger bow and strut, and leaf spring tip. I'm thinking about getting a sear jig and stones...(a little salty) No parts left over and the trigger feels like I took a pound off the pull. I know some people mentioning shortening the main spring, bending the disconnector leaf spring, and shortening the mag release spring (instead of buying lower-tension springs). I also ordered a trigger pull gauge. I already have the punches, hammer, mini needlenose pliers, 600, 1000, and 1500 sandpaper, a rotary tool with a 220 piece set. I have learned how to adjust and fit the trigger.

185 grain wadcutters are at 98% reliability and 100% on round-nose. I've shot over 1100 rounds through it so far. This gun runs silky smooth. A few dabs of slide grease and the slide floats on the frame.