Trigger Reset Fail

[Captrigney]

150 rounds at the range today and 4 times the trigger didn't reset. (Pull, no click or bang) Tapped, racked and was good to go.

Is this a software problem (me) or hardware?

The range master suggested perhaps I didn't release the trigger all the way. I'm pretty sure I did. I'm thinking (maybe not so clearly) that I gave it a second try with no click or bang before the tap/rack.

I noticed after cleaning the gun that I had trouble re-assembling the slide to the frame. It seemed to be getting hung up on the front of the guide rod while I was trying to move the slide rearward. Could this have something to do with it perhaps not returning to battery? If it happens again I'll take a closer look at what is going on. In the meantime, is anyone familiar this malfunction?

[jocko]

how about takeing the slide apart and cleaning the striker channel. sometimes some real crud is left in there and it can effect lite strikes/dead trigger. Only u can say if u didn't give the trigger the freedome to reset itself, 4 times out of 150 for break in might be OK but I would give the gun a good cleaning and shoot anutter 150- rounds and watching everything u d and if it reoccurs again, I would email kahr, attn: Jay and state ur case.

[shlike]

150 rounds at the range today and 4 times the trigger didn't reset. (Pull, no click or bang) Tapped, racked and was good to go.

Is this a software problem (me) or hardware?

The range master suggested perhaps I didn't release the trigger all the way. I'm pretty sure I did. I'm thinking (maybe not so clearly) that I gave it a second try with no click or bang before the tap/rack.

I noticed after cleaning the gun that I had trouble re-assembling the slide to the frame. It seemed to be getting hung up on the front of the guide rod while I was trying to move the slide rearward. Could this have something to do with it perhaps not returning to battery? If it happens again I'll take a closer look at what is going on. In the meantime, is anyone familiar this malfunction?

What model Kahr do you have? I will be interested to hear the replies to this thread as I had a similar problem the other day with my CW45. Out of 50+ rounds using standard Federal 230gr. ball, the trigger failed to reset twice. One of the times I released the trigger and it reset after a fraction of a second delay. The other time was as you described. That being said, I shot my CW45 immediately after shooting my M&P 9C where I can ride the trigger reset. On the Kahr the trigger has to be fully released to reset. For that reason I'm going to try it again on my next range trip, paying careful attention to release the trigger all the way. This has not happened before. My CW45 has been pretty much flawless after at least 1000 rounds through it (even before the frame was replaced due to the "short-rail" issue). Also I am meticulous about cleaning the gun after each range trip, and I blow out the slide hole with compressed air each time, although I have not detail-stripped the slide yet.

[jocko]

What model Kahr do you have? I will be interested to hear the replies to this thread as I had a similar problem the other day with my CW45. Out of 50+ rounds using standard Federal 230gr. ball, the trigger failed to reset twice. One of the times I released the trigger and it reset after a fraction of a second delay. The other time was as you described. That being said, I shot my CW45 immediately after shooting my M&P 9C where I can ride the trigger reset. On the Kahr the trigger has to be fully released to reset. For that reason I'm going to try it again on my next range trip, paying careful attention to release the trigger all the way. This has not happened before. My CW45 has been pretty much flawless after at least 1000 rounds through it (even before the frame was replaced due to the "short-rail" issue). Also I am meticulous about cleaning the gun after each range trip, and I blow out the slide hole with compressed air each time, although I have not detail-stripped the slide yet.


If ur using that slide hole to clean the striker channel and spraying some cleaner i tha thold, I would think that channel is spiffyt clean. Keep an eye on wat ur describing. A 1000 round sshould have been more than enough to get the quyirks out.. Not sayiang user error, I would hope it is though, It is so har dofr kahr to f9ix sumpin that fokks up twicein so many rounds. . Ur ammo should have no bearing on that either. Only takes a 1/4" opf slide travel to cock that striker... Hopefully ur riding the trigger ..

[Antarius]

What cleaner do you guys use in the striker hole? I use Hoppes #9 aerosol.

[deadeye]

Aerosol brake cleaner. Non-chlorinated. My striker channel stays as clean as Pelosi's conscience.

[Antarius]

Ohhhh good idea.

[shlike]

What cleaner do you guys use in the striker hole? I use Hoppes #9 aerosol.

I just use "air in a can", the same thing used for cleaning computer keyboards, etc. As an aside, I was astonished when I had to show ID at Walmart to purchase this product. Why on earth would compressed air in a can require ID??? Come to find out that teens like to "huff" the aerosol to get high so it's like a controlled substance???!!!

[Antarius]

I just use "air in a can", the same thing used for cleaning computer keyboards, etc. As an aside, I was astonished when I had to show ID at Walmart to purchase this product. Why on earth would compressed air in a can require ID??? Come to find out that teens like to "huff" the aerosol to get high so it's like a controlled substance???!!!

Makes you wonder what asking for an ID will do to prevent me from huffing it. Lol.

[muggsy]

I'd show them my ID and then take a good hit off the can before I left the counter. That would shake 'em up. You wouldn't believe how many times I've been thrown out of Walmart. :)

[89grand]

Aerosol brake cleaner. Non-chlorinated. My striker channel stays as clean as Pelosi's conscience.

That works great, I use it too.

[Captrigney]

What cleaner do you guys use in the striker hole? I use Hoppes #9 aerosol.

Back on topic, I have to think it is user error (mine, of course) that caused the trigger reset fail. I was shooting groups a bit faster than normal so I may have short stroked the reset.

Back off topic: I'm new to strikers. Would Ballistol be a bad product to use in the striker clean-out hole because it is a CLP (L being Lube)? I've been using Break Free Powder Blast aerosol (I believe it is just a C with no L or P) followed by compressed air.

[AH.74]

Stick with the non-chlorinated brake cleaner or gun scrubber. You want something that will dry and leave no residue.

[Antarius]

Back on topic, I have to think it is user error (mine, of course) that caused the trigger reset fail. I was shooting groups a bit faster than normal so I may have short stroked the reset.

Back off topic: I'm new to strikers. Would Ballistol be a bad product to use in the striker clean-out hole because it is a CLP (L being Lube)? I've been using Break Free Powder Blast aerosol (I believe it is just a C with no L or P) followed by compressed air.

use what you like, but just remember in striker channels you never want any kind of LUBRICANT. So if your cleaner is a cleaner and lube, don't use it in the striker channel.


For for what it's worth, in my other guns (fullsize), I've never cleaned the striker channel and I've never had problems in over 20-40k rounds.

These smaller guns have smaller tolerances and since Kahr provides an easy to use cleaning hole, I clean it.

[Joe A.]

Far as I know, all striker fired pistols require the striker channel to be clear of oil, debri, fouling, etc. Most manuals state "no oil in striker channel. That's why most people use non chlorinated brake cleaner to flush channel clear of oil and debri.

Not doing so can cause light strikes on the primer.

[yqtszhj]

Stick with the non-chlorinated brake cleaner or gun scrubber. You want something that will dry and leave no residue.

Use what AH said. Its jocko approved.

[seed]

http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?21904-P45-trigger-bar-sticking-fix&highlight=failure+reset

The above thread is a good read for what probably accounts for this type of failure in many, if not most instances in polymer framed Kahrs. However, I encountered the problem with my MK40, which is steel framed of course. Upon careful examination, I observed that I could recreate the malfunction by not pushing down the tab hard enough...both with the slide removed and with the pistol fully assembled. In the former situation, holding the trigger all the way back, I use my finger nail to push down the tab (and trigger bar) just enough to have it clear the slide (if it was still on), but not enough to trip the dual cam sear/safety deactivator. With the slide still on, I could recreate the problem by deliberately racking the slide just hard enough to push down the tab/trigger bar to clear the slide, without enough force to make it reset the cam. In the latter case, it was much more difficult to cause the malfunction.

My conclusion is that the malfunction was caused by my grip panel screws loosening and allowing the trigger bar to bow, length wise outward, caused by the reset spring pulling it outward, without being blocked by a flush grip panel. This allowed the trigger bar to lean just enough to travel outward...enough to prevent full downward travel of the trigger bar during the cycling and resetting process. My solution is to use Loctite on the grip screws and perhaps get some stiffer grips to remove concern of any flexing or bowing of the superior/posterior portion of the grips themselves during firing (if this can happen at all as they heat up). It also doesn't hurt to keep grease away from the portion of the frame where the tab resides, as it could perhaps be sticky enough to sometimes prevent complete downward travel of the tab/trigger bar. I will test all this on my next range trip.

[Captrigney]

seed: Thank you for the instructional post. My cm9 is new with only 250 rounds through it so I don't see any wear or abnormalities in the areas in your post. However, I have found that I can re-create the malfunction if, with the slide attached, I pull the trigger all the way back and rack the slide while lifting/pulling the rear of the slide upward. It doesn't take much upward force to cause the reset failure. Can anyone else out there cause the malfunction with this method or is it a flaw in my cm9? Could this happen on live fire recoil?

After a closer inspection, perhaps there is some wear on the trigger bar tab. With my fingernail, I can feel that it is peened over some. It also looks like it is worn on the top half. Perhaps this is normal. More experienced eyes may be able to tell me. Here is a link to some photos (I've yet to accumulate enough posts to include photos in my posts).

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u7hs63xj4nh6xgm/2014-12-12%2010.18.54.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fq1t4qhx16rjl8p/IMG_20141212_102128.jpg?dl=0

[seed]

Although in principle the problem is caused for the same reason in both metal and polymer framed Kahrs (incomplete downward travel of the trigger bar), there are differences in the likelihood and also the possibility of the cause...in polymer framed Kahrs, the tab can be trapped between the slide and frame rails, due to the flexibility of the polymer, whereas in steel framed Kahrs, the loosening of the grip screw (specifically the upper right grip screw) and or possibly some give of the plastic grip panel in the tab area (a thin, unsecured area) can cause an allowance for the trigger bar to tilt slightly, thus dissipating downward travel into some lateral travel. The problem is significantly more worrisome for the polymer framed Kahrs as it can be an inherent design flaw that could only be permanently prevented with a slight design change (i.e. perhaps some metal support in the frame for rigidity). With steel framed Kahrs, the problem is less frequent to begin with, is unlikely to damage the trigger bar tab and is perhaps easy enough to prevent with some owner precautions I outlined in my previous post. A design change may be possible by Kahr, but doing so would change the dynamics of the system and possibly make things worse before they get better. A possible change would be an ever so slightly heightened tab, but this could cause geometry problems down below where the dual cams interact with the trigger bar.

I am very interested in people's opinions here about it. Please tell me what you think.

[jocko]

I'd show them my ID and then take a good hit off the can before I left the counter. That would shake 'em up. You wouldn't believe how many times I've been thrown out of Walmart. :)

look at the money u save Muggsys. ur so high all the time and it cost u nadda. coure u could buy that air can and insert it where te sun doesnt shine and it might clear ur brain some to. Just sayin.

[jocko]

One reason ol jocko has recommended the non cholorinated brake cleaner, or any non cholorinated cleaner is that it is about 3 times cheaper than cleaners like gun scrubber that is the same thing only with alittle better perfume in it to make u feel good aobut getting fokked for paying that kind of money. IO any spray cleaner that drys fast is great for the striker chanel. I would say stay away form any lubing or any cleaners that leave an oil film. Keep the channel clean and dry, and that little clean out hole on the bottom front of the slide is just why it is there. It feed directly into the striker channel, so IMO every time u clean ur weapon give that channel a 5 second spray and ur good to go. I in over 32K rounds of my PMJ9 have had the striker channel down one time and that wasto insert the 5# striker spring and at that time I made sure that channel was perfectly clean and clear of any excess gunk left over at kahr. Since then I have used the hole every time I clean my weapon. The channel is supposed to be clean and free of crude when u buy it BUT we don't know that and we do know that many have cleaned and found crapola in there that hindered the striker somewhoat. Just errror on the side of caution.. Keeping poil as much as possable out of the kahrs actions will also keep ur pockets from staining to if u pocket carry. I just don't think u can be TW25 for a super grease on the kahr rails and slide groover. That little visible hump on the back of the triger bar by the right side frame, is a good place to put a dab of that grease to...Just sayin

[jocko]

Back on topic, I have to think it is user error (mine, of course) that caused the trigger reset fail. I was shooting groups a bit faster than normal so I may have short stroked the reset.

Back off topic: I'm new to strikers. Would Ballistol be a bad product to use in the striker clean-out hole because it is a CLP (L being Lube)? I've been using Break Free Powder Blast aerosol (I believe it is just a C with no L or P) followed by compressed air.

I can tellu that if u try to rapid fire a kahr, u better be damn good at giving that triger is due travel or u will get lite strikes. U GOTTA LET UP ON THAT TRIGGER.

[Captrigney]

I can tellu that if u try to rapid fire a kahr, u better be damn good at giving that triger is due travel or u will get lite strikes. U GOTTA LET UP ON THAT TRIGGER.
Rapid fire at my range is anything over 1 round per second. Faster than that and you get an intercom ass chewing. So, I wouldn't say I was rapid firing. I'll have another go at it next week and see what happens.

[seed]

seed: Thank you for the instructional post. My cm9 is new with only 250 rounds through it so I don't see any wear or abnormalities in the areas in your post. However, I have found that I can re-create the malfunction if, with the slide attached, I pull the trigger all the way back and rack the slide while lifting/pulling the rear of the slide upward. It doesn't take much upward force to cause the reset failure. Can anyone else out there cause the malfunction with this method or is it a flaw in my cm9? Could this happen on live fire recoil?

After a closer inspection, perhaps there is some wear on the trigger bar tab. With my fingernail, I can feel that it is peened over some. It also looks like it is worn on the top half. Perhaps this is normal. More experienced eyes may be able to tell me. Here is a link to some photos (I've yet to accumulate enough posts to include photos in my posts).

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u7hs63xj4nh6xgm/2014-12-12%2010.18.54.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fq1t4qhx16rjl8p/IMG_20141212_102128.jpg?dl=0

I think those pictures show evidence of your Kahr experiencing the problem that Dorangolv detailed in his thread, possibly in addition to what you experienced with your testing...or perhaps a combination of the two at the same instance... Perhaps the tab is only slipping beneath the slide rail at the beginning phase of rearward motion, then freeing itself to be pushed down just far enough for clearance, but not enough for dual cam reset. This would explain the lack of total failures that Dorangolv experienced. Personally, I would notify Kahr that you need a new trigger bar and then follow Dorangolv's instructions on how to prevent the problem from starting all over again, damaging your new trigger bar. I feel very confident that you and I (and Dorangolv) have nailed down the cause of failures to reset for our Kahrs, as well as that of many, if not most others experiencing the problem. Good luck and let us know about your progress, as will I with my MK-40 with its related problem.

[Captrigney]

Here is a video of a trigger reset fail with the problem seeming to be that the trigger bar doesn't lift UP after racking rather than not getting pushed down enough: http://youtu.be/h5wFy81mQds

[Antarius]

Or take the trigger bar and bend it slightly upward so it's farther up in the first place?

[sas PM9]

Here is a video of a trigger reset fail with the problem seeming to be that the trigger bar doesn't lift UP after racking rather than not getting pushed down enough: http://youtu.be/h5wFy81mQds

Cap:

Thanks for that video. It helps explain what "his" gun was doing. And it looked to me like the trigger spring has weakened and is not providing enough upward motion in "his" case.
You can take off your side panel and see if the same thing is your problem too. If it is ( or even if it isn't) I would be inclined to call KAHR and request a RMA tag and let them fix it under warranty.

-steve

[Captrigney]

I emailed Jay at Kahr Support. I'll keep you posted.

[jocko]

Or take the trigger bar and bend it slightly upward so it's farther up in the first place?

that trigger bar is a b!tch to ever take out, I would advise against tht for sure If the bar is out of spec, then it needs to go back to kahr, end of story. If the owner fokks itr up thent he gun will come back maybe unfixed by kahr to. They will warranty their guns for this screw ups, not ours.

[Antarius]

that trigger bar is a b!tch to ever take out, I would advise against tht for sure If the bar is out of spec, then it needs to go back to kahr, end of story. If the owner fokks itr up thent he gun will come back maybe unfixed by kahr to. They will warranty their guns for this screw ups, not ours.

Good points.

[Captrigney]

Do me a favor, guys, and take a peek at your trigger bars. Are they worn where they meet the slide?

[shlike]

One reason ol jocko has recommended the non cholorinated brake cleaner, or any non cholorinated cleaner is that it is about 3 times cheaper than cleaners like gun scrubber that is the same thing only with alittle better perfume in it to make u feel good aobut getting fokked for paying that kind of money. IO any spray cleaner that drys fast is great for the striker chanel. I would say stay away form any lubing or any cleaners that leave an oil film. Keep the channel clean and dry, and that little clean out hole on the bottom front of the slide is just why it is there. It feed directly into the striker channel, so IMO every time u clean ur weapon give that channel a 5 second spray and ur good to go. I in over 32K rounds of my PMJ9 have had the striker channel down one time and that wasto insert the 5# striker spring and at that time I made sure that channel was perfectly clean and clear of any excess gunk left over at kahr. Since then I have used the hole every time I clean my weapon. The channel is supposed to be clean and free of crude when u buy it BUT we don't know that and we do know that many have cleaned and found crapola in there that hindered the striker somewhoat. Just errror on the side of caution.. Keeping poil as much as possable out of the kahrs actions will also keep ur pockets from staining to if u pocket carry. I just don't think u can be TW25 for a super grease on the kahr rails and slide groover. That little visible hump on the back of the triger bar by the right side frame, is a good place to put a dab of that grease to...Just sayin

Could someone translate this please??!! I use TW25 on the rails and slide "groover", and would like to know if Jocko is saying that this is good or bad?

[89grand]

I think it was supposed to read "I just don't think you can beat TW25 for a super grease...".

I use synthetic wheel bearing grease on mine.

[jocko]

I think it was supposed to read "I just don't think you can beat TW25 for a super grease...".

I use synthetic wheel bearing grease on mine.


that is what I meant to sayu. TW25 is usede by our military in many of their auto weapons. great stuff, wont run, either.

[shlike]

that is what I meant to sayu. TW25 is usede by our military in many of their auto weapons. great stuff, wont run, either.

I agree. I always use TW25 grease on rails and slide surfaces. Oil on the other parts. A thin bead of TW25 stays put, doesn't drip and is more durable between cleanings.

[addictedhealer]

Do me a favor, guys, and take a peek at your trigger bars. Are they worn where they meet the slide?

Mine is, I removed everything from my slide and frame and gave a mirror polish on all the bits. Smooth as it gets. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/c5c0133a3e8e5be64e9fab4a70832eb9.jpg

[Antarius]

Yes mine has a wear mark.

[muggsy]

Could someone translate this please??!! I use TW25 on the rails and slide "groover", and would like to know if Jocko is saying that this is good or bad?

It's apparent that someone neglected to send out a Jocko decoder ring to you. I'll have Bawanna send one to you buy pony express from his mountain retreat in the Great North West.

[seed]

Here is a video of a trigger reset fail with the problem seeming to be that the trigger bar doesn't lift UP after racking rather than not getting pushed down enough: http://youtu.be/h5wFy81mQds

Whoa.... You forgot to keep the trigger depressed, simulating what would happen during firing:

1 You pull the trigger, the striker is released and hits the primer to detonate the primer, etc.
2 The recoil impulse causes the slide to go back, which pushes down on the tab, at first in the dug-out ramped curve area and then the underside of the slide rail (bottom most part of the slide)
3 This causes the trigger bar to disengage the dual cams, which reset.
4 The slide goes back forward and the bottom of the striker tang is engaged by the trigger cam and the trigger is reset.
5 You release the trigger and pull it again.

In the video, if you kept the trigger pressed during your manual slide pull, the gun would have attempted to do all these things. But since you didn't keep the trigger depressed, the dual cams did not rotate to allow re-engagement with the tang. Pushing up or medially on the trigger bar after the fact caused the trigger bar to disengage the cams, which then rotated. I'm guessing that the cam just barely touches the tang in this case, causing an unusual pull, because it has to overcome the striker spring tension from a non-half-cocked position. I'm also guessing that it probably isn't very good to do this as the tolerances can become affected, due to unusual stresses. But I have to look to confirm these suspicions, so don't quote me on that yet.

Bottom line though is that the video makes an error which is crucial towards understanding or misunderstanding what is happening.

[Captrigney]

seed,

So there's no misunderstanding, the video is not mine, but just one I found online with a similar problem. Could be apples and oranges.

Your chain of events is exactly what I have deduced should happen from my own inspection after I began having the reset failure.

My experience in trying to re-create the failure is that after #2 (while keeping the trigger pulled and exerting some upward pull on the rear of the slide while racking), #3 through #5 does not occur. I'm thinking that with the worn trigger bar, there may be just enough slop in that area to occasionally not function properly.

Now, perhaps all CM9's will fail to reset if the rear of the slide is pulled up while racking and that in actual live fire this upward force would not occur. I don't know but would like to. If any curious Kahr owners out there would like to experiment, I would be interest in the results.

If my CM9 is not unusual in that regard, then perhaps it is the shooter that is the cause. I would be nice to figure it out, though. I appreciate all the help from this forum.

[seed]

You are not committing any errors, so don't let anyone tell you so. I remember the days before the forums and all the nonsense that used to be spewed about alleged user-error or ammo related stuff causing problems. Well it only got worse when the forums came...but it also got better. You just have to swim through all the nonsense to find the currents of truths and likelihoods. There are a lot of knowledgeable people on the boards and youtube...but a ton more idiots as well. Kahrs are not complicated by any stretch. I'm no expert, but I can deduce things pretty well, especially with the aid of knowledgeable posters like yourself and what's his name (the OP from that other thread). To sum up my opinion (and that's all it is), your trigger bar tab is getting partially trapped and the drag is preventing the trigger bar from dropping forcefully enough to complete the downward trajectory, necessary to reset the dual cams...sometimes. In conclusion, I would open up a conversation with the OP of that other thread and pick his brain. He laid it out very well in his thread, but it would be a good idea to get his input on your particular problem. He seems to know his stuff on the matter. Just click on the link I pasted in my first post on this thread.

[seed]

Mine is, I removed everything from my slide and frame and gave a mirror polish on all the bits. Smooth as it gets. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/c5c0133a3e8e5be64e9fab4a70832eb9.jpg

Impressive! I need to do this very thing on my PM9. I can't do it on my MK-40 as it is now cerakoted.

[Captrigney]

To sum up my opinion (and that's all it is), your trigger bar tab is getting partially trapped and the drag is preventing the trigger bar from dropping forcefully enough to complete the downward trajectory, necessary to reset the dual cams.

After re-reading the other post you supplied, I pretty sure this is indeed the issue. The only way the outside of the TB could be worn on the outside is if it was being caught inside the slide. I'll likely send it back to Kahr for a new trigger bar before trying to smith it myself.

Thanks again.

[jocko]

Impressive! I need to do this very thing on my PM9. I can't do it on my MK-40 as it is now cerakoted.

smooth is always good. nice job, time will hopefully tell to..

[Tilos]

Mine is, I removed everything from my slide and frame and gave a mirror polish on all the bits. Smooth as it gets. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/c5c0133a3e8e5be64e9fab4a70832eb9.jpg
Just so you know, those parts are shiny, not smooth.
There's a difference
:D

[jocko]

Just so you know, those parts are shiny, not smooth.
There's a difference
:D


Pont, SET, GAME, MATCH.

[muggsy]

The top of Old Muggsy's head is shiney and smooth. :)

[seed]

The top of Old Muggsy's head is shiney and smooth. :)

I'm guessing you have no failures to feed... Double snare, cymbal! Thank you! I'll be here all week!

[seed]

One thing I was thinking about in regards to that video Captrigney linked. Retracting the slide should have reset the trigger, but it didn't. The cams should have been in the correct position, no matter what to re-engage the striker tang. His problem is totally different from that we experienced while firing. I'm going to have to investigate his issue further.

[TheLastDaze]

Pont, SET, GAME, MATCH.
at this point I'd be happy to know what a 'pont' is..... :p

I went through this same scenario on my last range trip, gun failed to reset around 3 times of 60 or so... shell was ejected, round was chambered, gun was not reset..

I have yet to investigate the matter nor take the gun to the range again to try and mimic the situation....

I posted a thread about it with no help, I will tag this thread for reference

[Captrigney]

Range Report: 200 rounds - Too many reset fails to count. Definitely not user error. She's heading back to Kahr for service.

[yqtszhj]

Range Report: 200 rounds - Too many reset fails to count. Definitely not user error. She's heading back to Kahr for service.

I didnt see what your gun was, 9, 40, or 45. Anyway i bet they rework your trigger bar. Had a problem with my cw45 but fixed it myself. Hope you got free shipping on your return. My trigger bar was a couple of thousands out of spec in my opinion. I only had issues when it was hot before but its 100% good now. Let us know how it goes.

[Captrigney]

I didnt see what your gun was, 9, 40, or 45. Anyway i bet they rework your trigger bar. Had a problem with my cw45 but fixed it myself. Hope you got free shipping on your return. My trigger bar was a couple of thousands out of spec in my opinion. I only had issues when it was hot before but its 100% good now. Let us know how it goes.

http://www.kahrtalk.com/image.php?u=3427&dateline=1415847788 (http://www.kahrtalk.com/member.php?3427-yqtszhj)yqtszhj (http://www.kahrtalk.com/member.php?3427-yqtszhj) ,
It's a CM9. I had thought that maybe heat might matter but it failed right from the get-go today. They sent a prepaid label without my having to ask. I'm looking forward to 100% good. I'm just getting used to carrying and it has surprised me how uneasy it feels to not know if it is going to go bang - and how uneasy it will feel while I'm without it.

[yqtszhj]

They'll fix it. Hang in there.

[b4uqzme]

They'll fix it. Hang in there.

+1.

[seed]

I didnt see what your gun was, 9, 40, or 45. Anyway i bet they rework your trigger bar. Had a problem with my cw45 but fixed it myself. Hope you got free shipping on your return. My trigger bar was a couple of thousands out of spec in my opinion. I only had issues when it was hot before but its 100% good now. Let us know how it goes.

What exactly did you do to fix your CW45?

[seed]

Range Report: 200 rounds - Too many reset fails to count. Definitely not user error. She's heading back to Kahr for service.

Sorry to hear that. I never had that many failures to reset. In fact, I only had one in my MK40. I think it has everything to do with the fact that it is a nonpliable metal frame that makes it less likely to have the problem. But it of course is not immune. I tightened and loctited the grip screws and shot about 150 rounds through it with no problems. I don't think I'm out of the woods yet though. I'm guessing that a breaking in (smoothing the surfaces through use) of the recently cerakoted cams and trigger bar (along with the rest of the gun) is probably helpful as well. I have to take my PM-9 next for some hardcore testing next. I will report on that trip after it happens.

[yqtszhj]

What exactly did you do to fix your CW45?

Check out post #71 on this thread and you'll see what i did.

http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?1612-CW45-(and-other-poly-45)-issues-and-fixes&p=169924#post169924

Its a long read but theres lots of good info in this whole thread thanks to Greg too.

[Captrigney]

UPDATE:

After many failures to reset the trigger, I contacted Kahr service. I emailed Jay, who was recommended on this forum. He sent me a RM number as well as a return shipping label. I sent the CM9 back on Christmas Eve and it was delivered with a new trigger bar on New Year's Eve. A pretty good turn around, I'd say. Perhaps mentioning this forum helped grease the skids a bit.

Yesterday was my first chance to try it out at the range and it went 100 for 100 with no problems. I'd give Kahr a Five Star customer service rating.

Though you don't want things to go wrong with your new product, sometimes sh!t happens. As long as it doesn't turn to diarrhea, I can accept it as long as the company stands behind their product and makes it right. Kahr made it right and I'm a happy camper.

Thank you Jay and Ian.