Esco
12-21-2014, 01:11 PM
(attempt at your own risk) and I will try to be thorough but I don't post this type of thing much...
Originally I wanted to Place a small wide head pin with a knurled shaft in this location but I had no way to drill a straight hole due to the design of the frame.
so I improvised with some .8 mm piano wire, a needle file and a precision watchmakers hand drill :D
Prior to doing this, try and find an object that you can place behind the trigger that is just big enough that it breaks but does not over travel. this will save you allot of time because you can file the trigger for adjustment without fully reassembling the gun over and over again.
I ended up using the rod part of the cheap trigger lock that came with the gun. that was just large enough that the break point was .2 mm past the thickness of that rod on mine. so if the rod did not slide back behind the trigger I knew it would get a clean break when reassembled. each gun may break at a different point so this rod may not work for you or it could end up being perfect.
basically how I did it was drill two holes in the frame in front of the the right side of the trigger and installed my funky U shaped piece of piano wire.
by drilling the holes angled the way shown in the crude sketch, it allows my bent wire piece to hold itself in place.
and by having the top longer than the bottom it makes installation easier.
you just get the top started and push down with the needle nose to get the bottom in and press it home.
(you might have to make several trying to get the perfect fit, but luckily piano wire comes in 3ft length at the Hobby store.)
http://i.imgur.com/sXfXx6w.png
because of the angle needed to get clearance When drilling the holes you need to be careful not to go to far.
if you keep going you will end up punching out through the side of the frame. also I hit no internal steel skeletal parts in this area, so if you don't mark the bit it will be easy to screw up.
I used a drill bit almost the exact thickness as the wire, about .8 mm (it doesn't require a thick wire)
here is a photo of the drilling angle i had to use to clear the bump from the offset feed ramp.
http://i.imgur.com/HvVej3gl.jpg (http://imgur.com/HvVej3g)
after the wire is in place you file the Flat stop on the right side of the trigger to the point where it will break.
http://i.imgur.com/UD03KLpl.jpg (http://imgur.com/UD03KLp)
so far it works very well, it is not spongy and it wont come out on its own during use.
If Kahr molded the frames with a Small hole in that location it would be really easy to pop in a Knurled shaft pin in and adjust the trigger.
but Doubt that will happen though.
Originally I wanted to Place a small wide head pin with a knurled shaft in this location but I had no way to drill a straight hole due to the design of the frame.
so I improvised with some .8 mm piano wire, a needle file and a precision watchmakers hand drill :D
Prior to doing this, try and find an object that you can place behind the trigger that is just big enough that it breaks but does not over travel. this will save you allot of time because you can file the trigger for adjustment without fully reassembling the gun over and over again.
I ended up using the rod part of the cheap trigger lock that came with the gun. that was just large enough that the break point was .2 mm past the thickness of that rod on mine. so if the rod did not slide back behind the trigger I knew it would get a clean break when reassembled. each gun may break at a different point so this rod may not work for you or it could end up being perfect.
basically how I did it was drill two holes in the frame in front of the the right side of the trigger and installed my funky U shaped piece of piano wire.
by drilling the holes angled the way shown in the crude sketch, it allows my bent wire piece to hold itself in place.
and by having the top longer than the bottom it makes installation easier.
you just get the top started and push down with the needle nose to get the bottom in and press it home.
(you might have to make several trying to get the perfect fit, but luckily piano wire comes in 3ft length at the Hobby store.)
http://i.imgur.com/sXfXx6w.png
because of the angle needed to get clearance When drilling the holes you need to be careful not to go to far.
if you keep going you will end up punching out through the side of the frame. also I hit no internal steel skeletal parts in this area, so if you don't mark the bit it will be easy to screw up.
I used a drill bit almost the exact thickness as the wire, about .8 mm (it doesn't require a thick wire)
here is a photo of the drilling angle i had to use to clear the bump from the offset feed ramp.
http://i.imgur.com/HvVej3gl.jpg (http://imgur.com/HvVej3g)
after the wire is in place you file the Flat stop on the right side of the trigger to the point where it will break.
http://i.imgur.com/UD03KLpl.jpg (http://imgur.com/UD03KLp)
so far it works very well, it is not spongy and it wont come out on its own during use.
If Kahr molded the frames with a Small hole in that location it would be really easy to pop in a Knurled shaft pin in and adjust the trigger.
but Doubt that will happen though.