Recoil spring install

[topgun1953]

Just an idea to help with the installation of new springs that are longer and stiffer than what you are replacing. I was trying to replace the springs in my P380. (While waiting on broken striker fix) and it was just impossible. I finally took a long screw, inserted it through the spring(s), put a nut and washer on the
end and screwed it down until the spring was very compressed. After several hours, voila, good to go.:target:

[muggsy]

I like that suggestion. I never was one for using brute force. I always got a bigger hammer. :)

[kwh]

Another good idea on the forum pages. Wished I had known that a few weeks ago when I replaced the recoil spring on my CW45.

[ulflyer]

Another good idea on the forum pages. Wished I had known that a few weeks ago when I replaced the recoil spring on my CW45.

KWH.... question for you: was your new 45 spring about 1 inch longer than
the old one? The one I ordered from Midway for a P45 is that much longer than my OEM, and so stiff I can't get it in. I'll try the bolt trick but would apprec some feedback.

[RonW]

when i replaced the recoil spring on my CW40, it was at least 1" longer than the stock spring. After 4-6 tries & 15 min of cussing/sweating, I managed to get the spring & recoil rod back in the slide.. After a couple hundred rounds it loosened up considerably & is much easier to reinstall. It is still slightly longer than the original spring though...

[kwh]

Yes all the new springs for the Kahrs are "longer" when new and a bear to get in the first time. My CM9 model is tighter than my CW45.
Once installed keep slide locked open overnight or just shoot it some and spring will be "shorter" and easier to install next time.
There are some pictures somewhere on the forum of before and after spring lengths.
KWH.... question for you: was your new 45 spring about 1 inch longer than
the old one? The one I ordered from Midway for a P45 is that much longer than my OEM, and so stiff I can't get it in. I'll try the bolt trick but would apprec some feedback.

[ulflyer]

Thanks guys for the replys. Makes me feel better; was thinking maybe I had got the wrong spring. I found a long bolt threaded all the way and cranked the spring down completely till it was only about 1` 1/2 inch think. Will leave it that way for few days
before checking it. Curiously, its exactly the same length and number of coils as a 16lb spring I just bought for a 1911 Commander. Might well be diff tensile strength tho.

[kwh]

^Good observation. Wonder if you installed the Kahr spring in the Commander, with the slide back for a day or two, if that would compress the spring enough? Sounds like you are well on your way with the bolt you found. Even so, expect expect a tight fit for the first several times.
Some think the procedure is easier if the forward open cut end of spring faces toward the top of the slide (or away from you as you installing looking at slide upside down).
The recoil/slide pin will probably be difficult to remove the first few times also. I have found it to be much easier to visually index its tab with the slide notch window rather than using the witness marks.

[kwh]

I am impressed at only 4-6 tries. This may be a record.:Amflag2: I would like to hear from anyone who has done it quicker the first time they installed a new Kahr recoil spring
when i replaced the recoil spring on my CW40, it was at least 1" longer than the stock spring. After 4-6 tries & 15 min of cussing/sweating, I managed to get the spring & recoil rod back in the slide.. After a couple hundred rounds it loosened up considerably & is much easier to reinstall. It is still slightly longer than the original spring though...

[ulflyer]

^Good observation. Wonder if you installed the Kahr spring in the Commander, with the slide back for a day or two, if that would compress the spring enough? Sounds like you are well on your way with the bolt you found. Even so, expect expect a tight fit for the first several times.
Some think the procedure is easier if the forward open cut end of spring faces toward the top of the slide (or away from you as you installing looking at slide upside down).
The recoil/slide pin will probably be difficult to remove the first few times also. I have found it to be much easier to visually index its tab with the slide notch window rather than using the witness marks.

Took spring off the bolt the other day and inserted it in without too much trouble. It was definitely tighter then the OEM. Prob was in need of a new one. I'm guessing I had close to 2000 rounds on OEM. Many thanks to all for the suggestions. Have put
the long bolt in my tool box for future use! :)

[JimboTN]

I thought I was going to have to sell my CW40 because I simply couldn't power the spring and rod into position. After several tries I almost gave up when I saw a 1/4" dowel rod in my kit. Inserted it through the hole in the slide and into the spring up to where the rod was. That prevented the spring from contorting during installation and popping into space. MY problem was weak hands and flexing spring. The dowel rod made all the difference in the world and I can now easily reinstall the spring/guide rod so...CW40 stays. Maybe this will help someone else.

[gb6491]

Nice tip Jimbo!http://www.pic4ever.com/images/13.gif

[Bawanna]

I've ejected a few nasty words messing with that spring myself. That indeed is a great tip.
And I have a bunch of dowel already at the bench. Life is good.

Thanks

[JohnBoy]

I'm new on here and have a ( dumb ) question. How do I post a message ? I went to FAQ and I'm more confused than when I started. All help appreciated !

[StevePM9]

Using a long machine screw, nut and couple of washers, works great for giving an initial "set", and easing new spring installations.

I just put new Wolff springs ("20.5 #, Xtra Power") on my new-to-me PM9.

Removing the smaller diameter internal spring was fairly easy. I spaced the sleeve back from the end nut with a "U" shaped
piece of coat hanger wire, and captured the sleeve flange and guide rod flange between soft pine blocks, in a bench vise.

With the sleeve & rod immobilized, the coat hanger wire spacer came out, leaving a work space between end nut and sleeve.
The end nut turned off fairly easily with pliers.

I wrapped old t-shirt around both ends of the RSA, before unwinding the vise, and nothing flew away when the small diameter
spring did it's thing :roll:

But how to get the nut back on, with that new spring?!

Even with the three-day machine screw pre-set, the spring was still way longer than the guide rod--and that small diameter spring, IMO, is stiffer than the outer, larger diameter spring. After conjecturating various Rube Goldberg possibilities, I realized "the pistol will do that." :D

I assembled the pistol with guide rod, small diameter spring, and sleeve. Then, with slide locked back, the threaded tip
of guide rod was exposed, allowing the nut to be threaded on (with thread locker, of course)*.

I re-used the soft pine blocks & vise, to give the nut a bit more torque. Installed the new outer spring without much
drama, and let the thread locker cure for a day and a half. Shot about sixty rounds yesterday, and end nut is still
secure.

* I reckon the nut could be removed, using this method, if a vise wasn't available, if you had some way of preventing the spring guide shaft from rotating. Padded jaw vise grip type pliers might work, but there'd be a risk of marring or bending the guide shaft.
rotating

[ripley16]

This thread begs the question; what is the life of the recoil spring in the various models? Is there a standard or suggested round count published by Kahr? I recall from many years ago that the springs needed replacement fairly often, but my memory is faded. I've been replacing mine somewhere prior to 5000 rounds... all 9mm and medium or large models.

[Bawanna]

I seldom if ever replace recoil springs. I figure the gun will let me know when the spring may need replacing.

[StevePM9]

Not seeing anything on Kahr's site, regarding replacement interval.

In general, the smaller the pistol, the harder the job of the recoil spring(s), and the shorter the service life.
I'm just getting familiar with my first Kahr, a PM9. I'm thinking 1,000 rounds might be a good target, for
a small pistol, like the PM9

[getsome]

Hi Steve, welcome to the forum…..You’re right about small guns needing more maintenance and a good rule of thumb for a little gun you trust your life with using quality springs is around 1500 rounds or so…..Springs are cheap insurance to keep a pistol running trouble free and dependable……I only wish I had 1500 rounds of ammo to wear a spring or two out with…..

[DJK11]

I posted this 10 years ago. RSA from my PM9.

[Belloc]

Working through old threads to learn what I can (recently bought a CW380 and a CM9). Had maybe a dozen failures to return to battery (by just a hair) on the second trip to the range for the .380, so thought new recoil springs might be worth a try, in case my preliminary break-in slide racking was too enthusiastic. Wish I'd seen this thread before putting on the new springs last night. I ended up using a Quick-Grip clamp, between the slide end and the spring guide flange (basically replacing my fingers) to compress the springs. I pushed an obstructing coil out of the way with the tip of a nail through the guide hole, and the guide came right on through. Then the flange can be slide from the pad of the clamp over onto the barrel lug. Just putting another idea out there. And many thanks to everyone for all the great ideas spread throughout these threads.

[SlowBurn]

I want to share a possible solution.
I've replaced recoil springs on P380s and CW380s a number of times over the years. New springs in this gun have always been a major pain the first time, but eventually I was always able to muscle them on using a table top or bookcase shelf. This week was the first time I've tried in a couple of years and I don't know if the new springs are even longer than they used to be or I've gotten weaker (probably) but I just couldn't. Compressing them overnight with a bolt, washer and nut didn't work for me either.
It occurred to me to install ONLY the inner spring which seemed to be the main culprit. It wasn't easy but it was manageable. I then locked the slide back for awhile. When I took it apart and added the outer spring, it went together with only a short struggle. I don't know if I it would have worked had I not already tried to compress the springs, but I have new springs on order for my other copies of this pistol and this time I'll try installing just the inner spring first and report back. Wish I'd thought of it years ago.

UPDATE - New springs arrived and I installed them. But first I did need to compress the inner springs for a short while. There was no way I could get an inner spring installed without doing that. They're sooo long out of the package - about 2x the length of the guide rod. After it had been compressed on a bolt for maybe a 1/2 hour, I was able to install an inner spring, lock the action open, wait 10-15 minutes, take it apart, add the outer spring and get it all together. I did that for 2 CW380s so that's how I plan to proceed with new springs from now on, unless someone comes up with a captive assembly for these pistols.

[sweatyk]

When I replaced the spring on my P9 I noticed the new one was somewhat longer but not doubled like that. I also counted the rings which the original has 19 turns and the replacement has 20. What I did was put a piece of 2x4 in my vise and drilled a hole large enough for a Phillips screwdriver to go through. Slid the spring onto the screwdriver and pushed it through the hole leaning by entire body weight on it to compress. Did it a few times and got it to the point it would work in the pistol.