P380 Has 2 Different Recoil Spring Guides?

[XCO]

I just picked up my first Kahr. It's a used Black P380 with CT Laser. Gun felt fine in the store, slide was nice, trigger was nice. Bought it and brought it home.

Went to clean it before going to the range and found that the end of the recoil spring guide had about half of it chipped off. I called Kahr (btw- worst customer service I've ever dealt with - what an attitude - if this guy worked for me I would have fired him on the spot) and they said I would need to buy a new guide as the warranty was not transferable.

Anyways, I went to look up the part that I'd need and there is a Recoil Spring for the P380 Part number 006P38 for $3.30, and for the Black P380 there is a different part number 006P38D for $14.30. What is the difference between the 2 that accounts for the $11 price difference? Anyone know? Are they interchangeable?

Thanks.

[gb6491]

I just picked up my first Kahr. It's a used Black P380 with CT Laser. Gun felt fine in the store, slide was nice, trigger was nice. Bought it and brought it home.

Went to clean it before going to the range and found that the end of the recoil spring guide had about half of it chipped off. I called Kahr (btw- worst customer service I've ever dealt with - what an attitude - if this guy worked for me I would have fired him on the spot) and they said I would need to buy a new guide as the warranty was not transferable.

Anyways, I went to look up the part that I'd need and there is a Recoil Spring for the P380 Part number 006P38 for $3.30, and for the Black P380 there is a different part number 006P38D for $14.30. What is the difference between the 2 that accounts for the $11 price difference? Anyone know? Are they interchangeable?

Thanks.
I've no idea about the price differential or first hand experience in regards to if they are interchangeable. However, I suspect they are interchangeable and I'd go with the $3.30 dollar one (that's what in my P380).
Regards,
Greg

[SlowBurn]

You're talking about the recoil spring guide, not the actual springs. My guess is the guide is finished in black to match the pistol. So if you get the standard guide it would work fine but you'd have a spot under the barrel that doesn't match the black finish of the rest of the pistol.

BTW I'd have a word with the store about this issue.

[b4uqzme]

I'm curious too...but I'd recommend you take Greg's advice. FWIW Midway sells that part for $3.99. If you have any other stuff to buy you could save on shipping. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/744968/kahr-recoil-spring-guide-rod-kahr-p380

[Alfonse]

The only functional difference (not counting color) I am aware of is between the CW380 and P380. The CW380 guide rod is slightly longer, about .050". The P380 does not have the taper at the end of the barrel like the CW380 and thus the CW380 barrel and guide rod is a bit longer.

[XCO]

I did take it back to the dealer yesterday. They ordered the new guide rod and new springs for it, so I can't complain too much. I was just wondering about the discrepancy in the 2 different guide rods. So I guess the one in the standard P380 (with the silver slide) has a silver (or stainless) guide rod or a blued one, and the black P380 has a black one?

I guess I'll find out when he gets the parts in, and I have a feeling that he'll be re-ordering the black one.

Another question - is this a typical failure or should I be looking elsewhere in the gun to see why this part failed?

Thanks

[Alfonse]

A photo would help, but I've never heard of the end being "chipped" off. If it was just the finish, the DLC coating, I suppose that is possible though I've never heard of that either.

The steel that Kahr uses in guide rods seems too ductile to chip under most circumstances. Gouge maybe, but not chip.

[gb6491]

There was a member that had the flange/button split on one some years back: http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?15401-top-of-guide-rod-broke-off-my-p380

[Alfonse]

Interesting how that guide rod broke. But, as rare as that seems to be, not interesting enough to spend much time on.

I did make the flanges on our accessory parts a bit thicker but did not think there had been any problems. The P380 part is in process of being built.

[gb6491]

Interesting how that guide rod broke. But, as rare as that seems to be, not interesting enough to spend much time on.

I did make the flanges on our accessory parts a bit thicker but did not think there had been any problems. The P380 part is in process of being built.
I agree, very rare occurrence and not something I would worry about.
Regards,
Greg

[XCO]

I didn't take a pic, but it looked exactly like the picture in the link above. Guess I won't worry about it.

Dealer has the gun now - should get it back next week. There are going to install the rod and new springs then test fire it.

As long as it shoots, I'm happy.

[XCO]

Got my P380 back today - the guide rod and springs have been replaced. I then took it to the range with 2 boxes of HPR - 1 box of 100g FMJ, and 1 box of 90g JHP. Had a few times when on the first round the slide would not go all of the way forward and would need a little push to go fully into battery. This happened a few times, maybe 3 or 4 (both style bullets). I would have thought that the new springs would be putting even greater pressure to push the slide forward. BTW, I was releasing the slide using the lever only.

Also, something I noticed is that even when empty and with the slide fully forward it is much easier to manually push it rearward (just pushing it back about 1/4 inch), it comes back forward, but other guns I own you really can't push the slide back easily. I checked a few other new ones they had on the shelf and they kinda felt the same. Is this a break-in thing that will go away?

[DavidR]

It didn't go away on my CW380 and a trip back to Kahr didn't fix it.


Dave

[Short Bus]

Got my P380 back today - the guide rod and springs have been replaced. I then took it to the range with 2 boxes of HPR - 1 box of 100g FMJ, and 1 box of 90g JHP. Had a few times when on the first round the slide would not go all of the way forward and would need a little push to go fully into battery. This happened a few times, maybe 3 or 4 (both style bullets). I would have thought that the new springs would be putting even greater pressure to push the slide forward. BTW, I was releasing the slide using the lever only.

Also, something I noticed is that even when empty and with the slide fully forward it is much easier to manually push it rearward (just pushing it back about 1/4 inch), it comes back forward, but other guns I own you really can't push the slide back easily. I checked a few other new ones they had on the shelf and they kinda felt the same. Is this a break-in thing that will go away?

I had the same issue, I fixed it by polishing the chamber and following this thread. http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?26232-Found-solution-to-FTF-and-failure-to-return-to-battery-on-CW-380