BEWARE of Idiot Scratches on polymer frame when reassembling your pistol!

[kahrinca]

I was distracted and wasn't thinking 1911 reassembly - ended up placing nasty-looking scratches on my new PM9. So, beware!!! It's just like a 1911 in that sense!

Is there a 'tried and true', proven DIY remedy to eliminate or reduce these scratches now that they exist on my pistol's polymer frame?

I'd better watch 'Brain Games' entire season again because this was definitely a 'brain' failure! :der:

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/KAHR%20IDIOT%20SCRATCH%201_zps1wrhauvy.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/KAHR%20IDIOT%20SCRATCH%201_zps1wrhauvy.jpg.html)


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/KAHR%20IDIOT%20SCRATCH%202_zpshukcsy8d.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/KAHR%20IDIOT%20SCRATCH%202_zpshukcsy8d.jpg.html)

[jocko]

consider it a quick identification mark. IMO it is no big deal either. It u use the weapon enough, it will show TLC marks. Its a tool, not a show gun, and personally when u wrote this I was looking at the slide for a scrach so I bypassed right past that scratch. Ur OK. Just sayin

[kahrinca]

Jocko-

You must've gone past the odometer limit for posts. I now see that you have 194 posts! Well...there it is! Or, perhaps I now know what you mean by 'Perpetual New Guy'! :)

I appreciate that jocko and I do give a lot of weight to your posts, even though you do not seem to acknowledge my compliments. You are probably too humble...

Nevertheless, I am looking for a direct answer to my question. What doesn't bother some people may bother others, at least for now with a new pistol.

I am a bit perturbed (at myself) for this occurrence, inasmuch as I really can't stand idiot scratches and I even made a YT video showing proper reassembly of a 1911 to avoid the same. I just didn't make the connection between the 1911 and the Kahr- 'brain failure'.

[O'Dell]

It doesn't look as bad as it would on the metal frame of a 1911, and believe me, I've done my share of those over the years. No one is more conscious of the appearance of their pistols than I am, but it's not bad, and I wouldn't worry about it.

[OldFatGuy]

Mine is worse. I thought everyone did that!?!?

[kahrinca]

Appreciate the sentiments, but at the risk of sounding harsh, I am asking for a remedy.

[kerby9mm]

On my mk's the slide stops go straight in. They have never even been that far down on the frame. Are the polymer guns different for reinserting the slide stop?

[Bawanna]

If you got a bead blaster or have access to one, that might be worth a shot.

Any sanding would probably make it stand out worse than it is.

I honestly don't know if a bead blaster or sand blaster would do anything or just bounce off but it might help camouflage it a bit.

Very fine stippling with a wood burner but you'd probably have to come up with a pattern or something and do both sides as again it would stick out worse than the scratch.

[kahrinca]

On my mk's the slide stops go straight in. They have never even been that far down on the frame. Are the polymer guns different for reinserting the slide stop?

Manual instructs to initially insert left side of stop half-way with right side at the 4 o'clock position and then rotate (counter-clockwise) to 3 o'clock, e.g., straight in. So, it is indeed different.

[kahrinca]

If you got a bead blaster or have access to one, that might be worth a shot.

Any sanding would probably make it stand out worse than it is.

I honestly don't know if a bead blaster or sand blaster would do anything or just bounce off but it might help camouflage it a bit.

Very fine stippling with a wood burner but you'd probably have to come up with a pattern or something and do both sides as again it would stick out worse than the scratch.

Thanks for comments. I am not so equipped, though, nor have access or know-how to blast.

I was thinking of heating the frame with a hair dryer or heat gun as if doing a FrogLube treatment and then rubbing the area over. But I am concerned about making it worse, a valid point, as I have worsened things in the past on other projects.

Perhaps someone will chime in with a sure-fire remedy, if one exists.

[kahrinca]

Comments appreciated:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dH1iyrMKSU

[ltxi]

PlastX works great for smooth shiny surfaces. Been using it for years. For what you want, not so much/don't at all think so. As others have said, anything you try to do to fix this will very most likely make matters worse. Understand your frustration but this is one of those best to just live with it thingys.

[happypuppy]

http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU

This is what I use in motorcycle plastics

[b4uqzme]

Thinking out of the box here because I doubt you will come up with a good solution. What if you went to the local used car lot and asked to talk to the guy who does their vinyl interior repairs? They are trained to match the color and the texture of plastic surfaces. He might be able to fix it reasonably or tell you how to do it.

[yqtszhj]

Thinking out of the box here because I doubt you will come up with a good solution. What if you went to the local used car lot and asked to talk to the guy who does their vinyl interior repairs? They are trained to match the color and the texture of plastic surfaces. He might be able to fix it reasonably or tell you how to do it.
Now that is a slick idea. Very good.

[deadeye]

If you find a solution, let me know what it is. Mine isn't as deep as yours but it is there.

[kahrinca]

PlastX works great for smooth shiny surfaces. Been using it for years. For what you want, not so much/don't at all think so. As others have said, anything you try to do to fix this will very most likely make matters worse. Understand your frustration but this is one of those best to just live with it thingys.

Thanks for your input. Will not get the PlastX for now, and will not do anything at all for the time being. But I remain open to reading other comments.

Saving grace may be that I don't see myself selling this gun for a long while, if at all, so cosmetics are not as important as in the past where I usually end up selling most of my handguns years later.

And it's not really noticed unless gun is placed on its right side on a flat surface and one looks up at it from below the trigger guard, as in the photos without flash, above.

Below is how it looks with flash and high contrast- kind of 'ugly-nasty', worse than in normal light.

Since I am a left-handed shooter, I don't look in the area all that much unless I am taking gun down. Later, and after this photo, I applied a black Sharpie to the area and it looked worse, so I removed it.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/f0dc4e92-af4a-4421-a051-981486371a71_zpsqnlm9su6.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/f0dc4e92-af4a-4421-a051-981486371a71_zpsqnlm9su6.jpg.html)

[kahrinca]

Thinking out of the box here because I doubt you will come up with a good solution. What if you went to the local used car lot and asked to talk to the guy who does their vinyl interior repairs? They are trained to match the color and the texture of plastic surfaces. He might be able to fix it reasonably or tell you how to do it.

Something to consider, but this isn't vinyl. But I may do that and show a photo depicting the scratches and mention that it's a hard polymer.

[Armybrat]

Your scratches don't look bad, IMO. You oughta see the one along the bottom edge of my CW45 slide where the stop left a 2" mark when I reassembled it the first time several years ago.

[berettabone]

Must be tough to be a gun owner, and have all pristine firearms.......................................... ...some of mine are, and some aren't..............................they do get marks on them, which means they are being used. If you don't use them, and just sit and stare at them, might be time to sell them, or get a slingshot............:o

[Armybrat]

Well, do ya think it's a little late to buff out one of my '51 Navies?

http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/dd81594ed61dbf0d46b96ecfeb3d1c3f823ddbd.jpg

[kahrinca]

Must be tough to be a gun owner, and have all pristine firearms.......................................... ...some of mine are, and some aren't..............................they do get marks on them, which means they are being used. If you don't use them, and just sit and stare at them, might be time to sell them, or get a slingshot............:o

I like them without marks or scratches for aesthetic reasons. I take pride in that and always think of resale down the road. I tired of my CW9 after 5 years and did not shoot it all that much so it was time for a change and I sold it. That gun had become 100% reliable and was in excellent cosmetic condition.

[kahrinca]

Well, do ya think it's a little late to buff out one of my '51 Navies?

http://images.yuku.com/image/jpeg/dd81594ed61dbf0d46b96ecfeb3d1c3f823ddbd.jpg

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I would never want such a firearm unless it were valuable for investment purposes.

[Armybrat]

I like the history such an old gun conveys. Somehow an antique that spent its life in a town clerk's sock drawer doesn't say much to me. I don't buy guns for investments anyway, plus that one was given to me.

But yes, a new gun is one to avoid getting dings & scratches on, like you would a new car to keep it looking as good as possible as long as possible.

[muggsy]

Nothing that I know of will remove a deep scratch from polymer and anything that you try to do to remove the scratch will just draw attention to it. It isn't necessary to hold the slide stop against the frame when turning the slide stop from 4 to 3 0'clock before pushing it in. It's only necessary that the slide stop pin be properly located within the kidney shaped hole. That prevents scratching the gun during reassembly. Consider the scratch a character mark. It won't affect how the gun shoots in the least.

[kahrinca]

Nothing that I know of will remove a deep scratch from polymer and anything that you try to do to remove the scratch will just draw attention to it. It isn't necessary to hold the slide stop against the frame when turning the slide stop from 4 to 3 0'clock before pushing it in. It's only necessary that the slide stop pin be properly located within the kidney shaped hole. That prevents scratching the gun during reassembly. Consider the scratch a character mark. It won't affect how the gun shoots in the least.

It might've been better if the owner's manual and 'proper prep of a new kahr' did away with the 4 o'clock suggestion. Perhaps it was included to ensure that the slide stop spring becomes situated above that landing on the stop.

Live and learn...

You may well be correct about scratch removal with these polymer frames. I will just live with it and move on, unless there is a surefire DIY remedy that works. It appears NOT. Haven't really found much to be of benefit here or while doing a Google Search.

I'll admit that I've been tempted to place a heat gun over the frame, while on 'high'- go to 2:15 of the video below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7vS6F8EHxI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7vS6F8EHxI)

According to the video, it is supposed to cure the plastic/polymer and help with scratches by not completely eradicating them but returning them to original color, making them less noticeable.

But I hesitate to do so based on other DIY remedies (on firearms) where condition had worsened, and made me even more upset. In this case, the scratch area is very close to the slide stop spring and its holder- would not fare well if that area melts. Then I'd really go nuts and probably suffer my first seizure if not coronary...:(

But wonder if anyone here has tried this method on a polymer frame?

In any event, thanks for your comments.

[gb6491]

If you got a bead blaster or have access to one, that might be worth a shot.

Any sanding would probably make it stand out worse than it is.

I honestly don't know if a bead blaster or sand blaster would do anything or just bounce off but it might help camouflage it a bit.

Very fine stippling with a wood burner but you'd probably have to come up with a pattern or something and do both sides as again it would stick out worse than the scratch.
It's been my experience that Bawanna is correct on all accounts.
Stippling will cover up that up.
Sanding: It seems that polymer has a "skin" where it was in contact with the mold, hence the slight shine/satin finish: sanding will definitely cut through that "skin" leaving you with a much flatter appearance.
Bead blasting can "camouflage" scrapes and bruises on polymer, but again you will have a much duller finish, so I think it best to blast the entire frame.
That's what I did to this P250 frame (actually, the whole gun has been blasted as this was a nitron coated slide)
http://i58.tinypic.com/2nm0in8.jpg
Now, with that all said, let me share this with you. BTW, This is not a "how to" just what I did, so proceed at your own risk.
It's hard (impossible?) to match the polymer finish as it comes from the mold, but I've had some luck blending scratches on/in polymer frames with the surrounding area.
Here's a S&W Shield that I sanded down the trigger guard and then blended the sanded area:
http://i46.tinypic.com/23jjxpu.jpg
The technique I use needs some finesse, a striking instrument, 80 grit sand paper (other grits could be tried as well), and a green scouring pad.
I'd advocate practicing technique on any similar plastic that would be suitable. I think it easier to explain what I do with a video and had thought to use a polymer kitchen knife handle to illustrate, but noticed that there was a small gouge on the front of my CW9's dust cover. Here's what I did:
uZtsM3y2DnY
Before
http://i62.tinypic.com/5cg943.jpg
After(not perfect, but IMO, better
http://i62.tinypic.com/qzqazo.jpg
Regards,
Greg

[kahrinca]

Thanks, GREG!

I will try to learn about your method but unable to view the video because it's listed as 'Private'.

[gb6491]

Thanks, Gary. I will try to learn about your method but unable to view the video because it's listed as 'Private'.
It should be published now.
Regards,
Greg

[Bawanna]

That's brilliant GB. Super idea and it worked quite nicely.

I couldn't help but think of a wood pecker when you had the hammer on hi speed. I laughed some.

We done as usual. I have a couple spots I might have to try that treatment on myself.

[Bawanna]

I'm partial to 51 Navy's myself.

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hopke5/DSCN6226_zpsfgtaxalc.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/hopke5/media/DSCN6226_zpsfgtaxalc.jpg.html)

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hopke5/DSCN6225_zps9qjgwbiz.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/hopke5/media/DSCN6225_zps9qjgwbiz.jpg.html)

[kahrinca]

CAVEAT: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Placed a hair dryer on 'high' in the area. Heated up the frame and then rubbed in circular fashion with finger or Q-tip or microfiber cloth. It did not eradicate the scratch but it may look better. Going to wait for frame to cool off before assembling slide and taking a photo.

Later...

I think the heat gun may work better, but run the risk of changing frame shape and structure.

Results with hair DRYER, dependent upon camera angle, light source, direction and its harshness:

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/DSC_4024_zpsg37vpvs3.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/DSC_4024_zpsg37vpvs3.jpg.html)


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/DSC_4027_zpsi04zzumr.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/DSC_4027_zpsi04zzumr.jpg.html)


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/DSC_4029_zpszimtjuyn.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/DSC_4029_zpszimtjuyn.jpg.html)


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/DSC_4026_zpsoocizuyx.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/DSC_4026_zpsoocizuyx.jpg.html)


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/DSC_4024_zpsdo7x1kbo.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/DSC_4024_zpsdo7x1kbo.jpg.html)

[Bobshouse]

I'm partial to 51 Navy's myself.

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hopke5/DSCN6226_zpsfgtaxalc.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/hopke5/media/DSCN6226_zpsfgtaxalc.jpg.html)

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hopke5/DSCN6225_zps9qjgwbiz.jpg (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/hopke5/media/DSCN6225_zps9qjgwbiz.jpg.html)

Nice one there. Looks like you need a reblue job though...kinda spotty, but I guess that could be expected on such an old gun. :)

[Bawanna]

Actually its color case hardened at the factory and it's never been shot. It's genuine Colt but probably made in the 60's a modern repro. It too was given to me, I felt very lucky to get it.

[Armybrat]

CAVEAT: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Placed a hair dryer on 'high' in the area. Heated up the frame and then rubbed in circular fashion with finger or Q-tip or microfiber cloth. It did not eradicate the scratch but it may look better. Going to wait for frame to cool off before assembling slide and taking a photo.

Later...

I think the heat gun may work better, but run the risk of changing frame shape and structure.

Results with hair DRYER, dependent upon camera angle, light source, direction and its harshness:


That is a nice job you did there - the scratch isn't noticeable to me.

Those PM9s are neat little guns.


Actually its color case hardened at the factory and it's never been shot. It's genuine Colt but probably made in the 60's a modern repro. It too was given to me, I felt very lucky to get it.
Bought mine new in 1974 - it hasn't been fired either. They are really purdy black powder hoglegs:

http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w349/ScoPro/2-4-11snowguns006.jpg

[kahrinca]

Check out my Decal grip that curled up due to the heat. That heat gun is a risky fix. Got the idea from this YT video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7vS6F8EHxI

I tried it, my gun seems okay but I will test it at range.

It would be less risky to use the hair dryer. The heat gun fix did not eradicate the idiot scratch completely, but it's better. It conforms to the color of the polymer and indeed is less noticeable. The photos pick up what normal lighting conditions and the eye do not notice. I will likely forget about this matter soon, so I am happy about it. I hope that it did not mess the gun up!

I'm done with this annoyance.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/DSC_4041_zpsvgmh53i9.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/DSC_4041_zpsvgmh53i9.jpg.html)


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/DSC_4041_zpsz6egt4xl.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/DSC_4041_zpsz6egt4xl.jpg.html)


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/DSC_4040_zps2nctp3ct.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/DSC_4040_zps2nctp3ct.jpg.html)

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/DSC_4050_zpsgclo6xsj.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/DSC_4050_zpsgclo6xsj.jpg.html)

[TheTman]

I wouldn't have messed with it to begin with, it didn't look that bad to me. But then again it's not my gun. I suppose it's like that first scratch on a New Car, You see it 10 times bigger than it is, and you know it just ruins the looks of the car, and most other people won't even notice it. It looks like you did a pretty good job of minimizing it's appearance and not making it stand out worse. Good Job!

[kahrinca]

Thank you, TMan! I needed that! :)

[Ronni3_J]

Ive got the same mark on my CW9. Doesnt bother me but to each his own

[kahrinca]

Ive got the same mark on my CW9. Doesnt bother me but to each his own
Brand new gun, top of line, waiting a long time to finally get one. It's expensive, also.

Additionally, I really can't stand idiot scratches. They stick out like a sore thumb and ruin the appearance of the firearm. That is just my own subjective feeling about it.

I even did a YouTube video on how to avoid idiot scratches on one's 1911. Guess that I just didn't make the connection to the Kahr as being susceptible. My 'bad'...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[Ronni3_J]

Ive got lots of expensive "top of the line" tools that have wear marks, scratches, etc. I use my tools so those marks dont bother me one bit. If I was trying to keep it mint that is a different story. I see my firearm like my work tools, they get used hard

[kahrinca]

Some people don't care how their cars look. Others may care a lot about how their car looks .

I don't look at my guns merely as tools to be run hard. That is your perogative. You won't find me owning a Glock for that very reason. They're too ugly to own.

As was said, 'to each his own'.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[muggsy]

That's brilliant GB. Super idea and it worked quite nicely.

I couldn't help but think of a wood pecker when you had the hammer on hi speed. I laughed some.

We done as usual. I have a couple spots I might have to try that treatment on myself.

That film wasn't shown at high speed. That's Greg's regular speed. Greg comes from the "get 'er done" school of gunsmithing. :)

[Bawanna]

He does a damn fine job of it too. Love most everything he's accomplished and he's directly responsible for many of my addictions and trouble I get into as well. Got good taste.

[Bobshouse]

You won't find me owning a Glock for that very reason. They're too ugly to own.

Oh boy, you hit a nerve there. Take a look at my glock, won't see no "idiot" scratch there.

http://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=JN.tZmU4WyOaioUizqXrtXlcQ&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0

[kahrinca]

Thought my comment about Glock might get a reaction! ;)

Have a nice day!

[berettabone]

Thought my comment about Glock might get a reaction! ;)

Have a nice day!
:p
Nothing that hasn't been said before........................................and agreed to.............................

[Bobshouse]

Thought my comment about Glock might get a reaction! ;)

Have a nice day!

Appreciate the post though. I've been neglecting my Glock since I got my Kahr p380, so I decided to pull it out of the safe and give'r a shine with the Renaissance Wax/Polish I just got in.

I can't believe how thick that gun felt in my hand...and its a SF model!

[O'Dell]

Oh boy, you hit a nerve there. Take a look at my glock, won't see no "idiot" scratch there.

http://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=JN.tZmU4WyOaioUizqXrtXlcQ&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0

You might want to put a scratch or two on it - it might improve the looks. :cool:

[kahrinca]

Oh boy, you hit a nerve there. Take a look at my glock, won't see no "idiot" scratch there.

http://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=JN.tZmU4WyOaioUizqXrtXlcQ&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0


One-of-a-kind cool. Just hope that you don't ever fire it in anger-the inscription on the muzzle might adversely reflect on your intent!

[kahrinca]

I was planning to go to the range Thursday to see if my PM9 was harmed by the heat gun, but I could not wait that long.

So I went out this afternoon to find out....

Shot Federal Champion Aluminum (50) and WWB (50) plus 7 of the HST 124gr.

Was greatly​ relieved and happy to see that all 107 rounds shot without incident of any kind! That certainly put my mind at ease. Was concerned that I might have messed up the firearm.

[O'Dell]

Your repair looks pretty good, Kahrinca. I own a company that repairs auto interiors and we do something similar. I use a heat gun with two settings, 500 and 800 degrees. Usually 500 is enough. I also have texture pads with many different patterns, so I can put the original pattern back once the material has softened. Generally, I work with soft vinyl, but sometimes I have to repair hard plastic. It takes a lot of practice to do it right, and I think you did great on your first attempt.

[kahrinca]

Your repair looks pretty good, Kahrinca. I own a company that repairs auto interiors and we do something similar. I use a heat gun with two settings, 500 and 800 degrees. Usually 500 is enough. I also have texture pads with many different patterns, so I can put the original pattern back once the material has softened. Generally, I work with soft vinyl, but sometimes I have to repair hard plastic. It takes a lot of practice to do it right, and I think you did great on your first attempt.


Thank you for the kind words. I can only ascribe it to 'beginners luck'. It's by no means perfect but it is satisfactory.

If I had to do over again I would have set my heat gun to the lower setting. I think it was a bit too much to have it on high and I shouldn't have taken the YT video I found literally: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7vS6F8EHxI . I think it's a pretty good video as far as YT is concerned, and he addresses the issue of scratches starting at 2:15.

[Baklash]

Well I certainly learned something from these posts. Karhinca, nice job. And that hammering sandpaper was novel indeed. Just one of the reasons I like this forum. Now.........let me see what I can do with that same little mark on my cw9 that I thought would be there forever.

[kahrinca]

Don't confuse my method with Greg's sanding/tapping.

I used heat gun remedy, nothing else, though I initially started with a hair dryer.

Recommend heat gun on 'low' setting. On high setting singed grips a bit as too hot and may damage the firearm.

I subsequently went to 'low' a couple of times over the past days. I am truly done this time and pleased!

Be careful and don't expose to the heat for too long. Do incrementally as prudence dictates. Do so at own risk to the firearm!

Today's photos:

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/KAHR%20HEAT%20GUN_zpsdvfwpkuh.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/KAHR%20HEAT%20GUN_zpsdvfwpkuh.jpg.html)


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x225/brentfoto/312b862e-866a-4705-8184-e9fe839ba816_zps8zfgrcgl.jpg (http://s187.photobucket.com/user/brentfoto/media/312b862e-866a-4705-8184-e9fe839ba816_zps8zfgrcgl.jpg.html)

[Bobshouse]

Great job. Can you get that grip tape off?

[kahrinca]

Great job. Can you get that grip tape off?

I would think so without difficulty. Just waiting on some new grip tape that I ordered.

The ones depicted are Decal Rubber Grip tape-they give quite a bit more traction than Talon rubber- a bit much for my liking...ordered some 'Traction' rubber grip tape (less costly than either Decal or Talon), should arrive in a few days. For a change, I just wanted something other than Talons.

[OvalNut]

I'm an idiot too, have the exact same mark on my PM9 from repeated disassembly/cleaning/reassembly, because I shoot it regularly and maintain it. It is a fantastic gun, shoots wonderfully and I never thought about trying to fuss with the scratch. It just is. From my perspective there is nothing wrong with it. I put it in the same league as wear marks from a holster, or that little bit of shine you get on the mag release button or slide release lever, from repeated use.


Tim

[kahrinca]

I'm an idiot too, have the exact same mark on my PM9 from repeated disassembly/cleaning/reassembly, because I shoot it regularly and maintain it. It is a fantastic gun, shoots wonderfully and I never thought about trying to fuss with the scratch. It just is. From my perspective there is nothing wrong with it. I put it in the same league as wear marks from a holster, or that little bit of shine you get on the mag release button or slide release lever, from repeated use.
Tim

Well, I started this thread due to frustration with myself for messing up the appearance of a NEW PM9. Perhaps I may not have felt this way if gun were purchased used in the same condition. But it wasn't, and I wanted to see if there were a remedy. That's all.

And I found a remedy that seemed to work pretty well, and may also be of benefit to others similarly situated who feel the same. I don't need to justify why I feel this way, just as those who could not care less don't need to justify why they feel the way they do about it, either.

That's the way it is for me, and for you. We each have our viewpoints, I respect yours, you apparently don't respect mine. That's fine.. the thread is about obtaining a way to eliminate or reduce unattractive scratch marks on the frame for those who share my views, and not to debate the propriety of my viewpoint.