Trigger finger

[shootinbil]

On the inside of my trigger finger I got a blister from shooting CM 9. First time out 200 rounds through it with no problems. Except for my finger. Did this happen to anybody else. Is there a fix?


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[gb6491]

On the inside of my trigger finger I got a blister from shooting CM 9. First time out 200 rounds through it with no problems. Except for my finger. Did this happen to anybody else. Is there a fix?

http://i57.tinypic.com/2nm124j.jpg
....or lightly file/sand/polish the edges of your trigger;)

[muggsy]

You can polish the trigger with a dremel. Shooting gloves are another option.

[b4uqzme]

Guess is depends on where the blister is... your finger is rubbing against what? trigger? part of the frame?

[deadeye]

Finally! A new unique problem with the CM9. Can't help though, over 3000 rounds without a blister of any kind. I would try gb6491's solution. Looks like a sure thing.

[yqtszhj]

I get one on what would be the top of my trigger finger (the top being what's on top when pointing the gun). Mine pinches between the top of the trigger and the frame because I have hands like a gorilla.

Solution: shoot more often to build up a callous. The blister stops happening and you have more fun. Best solution all the way around.

[shootinbil]

It seems the fingers hitting inside the bottom of trigger Guard.


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My Youtube Channel
www.youtube.com/shootinbil

[b4uqzme]

Is there anything rough on that trigger guard that you can sand smooth? Otherwise yq's advice sounds fun! :)

[wyntrout]

I have to put something on my trigger finger some of my Glocks, but not the Kahrs.

You may need to try to put the pad of your finger higher on the trigger and pull back rather than squeezing and letting your finger slide down until it gets to the guard.

Wynn :)

[KCAutoBob]

This reminds me of my old Keltec P-11 trigger blisters.... finally found a replacement trigger to correct the problem, it was really just a simple adjustment to the inside curve of the trigger that made it comfortable for extended practice sessions. Actually probalbly not related to your problem at all, except for the blister.
( That was a cute bandaid, tho...)

[Slvrbak]

Don't put so much of you finger on the trigger use the pad of your finger not the first knuckle
(This Sounds funny )

[Alfonse]

I blame it on an allergic reaction. I have a similar reaction to shovels. :)

[chieffels]

I have the same issue on my CW9. I pinch the bottom of my trigger finger on the guard. Can the trigger guard be heated and reshaped to take out the hump?

[finpro]

I don't know the answer to this last question, but it sounds really risky. It seems likely you would damage the serialized frame. It would be better to work only on the trigger itself. If things went wrong, you could replace the trigger for $15.40 plus some outrageous shipping. I can think of two ways to go and I did one for a similar problem. On an old P9, I removed the trigger and polished the bottom of it to diminish its sharpness and stop pinching finger skin. If it had been necessary, I could have taken some material off the trigger's bottom, but polishing was all it needed. It worked well, but if you are not familiar with how to remove and reinstall the trigger, it might be frustrating and slightly risky.
A less challenging way is to simply work on the trigger while in place. With an unloaded gun, cover the trigger guard and anything else which you do not want to scar with masking tape. Using emery paper of 1000 or more grit, cut a small piece and carefully insert it against the trigger bottom and smooth whatever you find necessary. It will probably not take much polishing to just break a sharp edge which is pinching and you can continually test it. Do this with the pistol cocked to hold the trigger in place. (Did I mention it might be better to do this with the gun unloaded?) Take your time and have fun. You can also polish the front of the trigger in the same way, but I would use a 2000 grit for a high polish to allows some slippage during the trigger press which some think can improve accuracy. You can find the emery paper in auto parts stores or Wal-Mart's auto section, because it is used in auto body work. Good luck.

[chieffels]

Thanks finpro. I'll give it a try with my Dremel.

[finpro]

A Dremel is fine for the trigger front. For the bottom of the trigger where you catch your finger, getting emery paper into the small gap between trigger and trigger guard and working slowly and carefully is safer.

[jocko]

do not head that lower frame....Use the pad of your finger and thats all you want onb the trigger. If you must fokk with that area, take a file and work slowly, remember once you take polymer off, you can't redo it. Unless you have a finer bigger than your big toek, then IMO u are doing sumpin wrong. rind the bottom off the bottom of your trigger finger and try that, if it doesnt work, it will grow back i a week. Just sayin

[Bawanna]

Jocko's been home a couple weeks. All his English and typing learning down south has plumb worn off.
I had to use my decoder ring to get some of this one.

Welcome back Jocko.

[Bills1873]

No matter, still good to hear from the feller!

[1stnamebassist]

I have the same issue with my ct380. My finger rubs on the trigger guard and eventually will start bleeding. Doesn't matter how I pull the trigger, whether its my finger tip, first pad, second pad or the knuckle. My finger is somewhat large and is twisted a bit and curved toward my middle finger a bit. Maybe that has something to do with it.I found by putting a hogue or pachmayr grip sleeve on helps a bit. It fills out the bottom of my hand a bit and changes the angle of attack of my hand and finger. I did take a swiss file and arkansas fine stone and broke the edge of the trigger a bit, but it didn't help at all. Maybe someday I'll order up an extra trigger and grind and polish some off the face near the top of the trigger and blend it in taking less and less as I move down. I think that would help my finger stay on the trigger and keep it from rolling down and onto the trigger guard as it's pulled. But the reality is as long as I only shoot fifty or so rounds it's not an issue. It's the marathon shooting sessions when it becomes an issue.

[finpro]

This doesn't sound like a problem that would have made Mother Teresa weep. Tiny .380s are not really meant for extended range sessions. It is a basic trade-off of their small size and weight, though I know a CT 380 is more shooting oriented than its smaller relatives. If you can shoot 50 rounds without hand damage, you should count yourself lucky. I once had an all steel blowback action .380 that was extremely painful and was amazingly inaccurate.
If you want to pursue this without resorting to finger liposuction, the first thing I would try is a Wolff 5# striker spring. This might change the pull characteristics just enough to make the problem disappear or it might not, but it is a low cost, easy fix, if it works.
If this does not work and, since you sound comfortable using tools, you might work on the trigger surface and shape as you outline. Its tricky to remove and replace a Kahr trigger. Full disclosure: I have never seen a .380 Kahr, but I assume the trigger setup is the same as for larger polymer Kahrs. If possible, try to avoid disassembly and, instead, work on the trigger in place.
I recommend placing the gun in a padded vice held by the slide and, with the polymer surfaces masked by tape, filing the upper trigger flatter and tapering down as you outlined. Filing just the front of the trigger flat opens more finger space with less metal removal and might hold your finger better. I would use a round diamond file like those used for sharpening chainsaws. If you are not too sensitive about the aesthetics, leave the trigger face rough to help hold your finger in place better during the trigger press. Since you are not disassembling the gun, it is easy to remove it from the vice to test periodically, though the real test will be extended range shooting, of course.

[berettabone]

All firearms have their place..................little Kahr's are not for the range. I've never had a finger issue with any firearm, but if I did, and really liked the firearm, I would cut down on the range time, and use a RANGE gun for practice.:o:o

[bugs]

oh contraire, mon amie berettabone, my EDC/Match CM9 has between 3/4000 rnds. fired and counting, all range and match fired,(thank God) with no finger/other issues except the itch for trigger time.

NRA LIFER
IDPA BELEIVER

[berettabone]

oh contraire, mon amie berettabone, my EDC/Match CM9 has between 3/4000 rnds. fired and counting, all range and match fired,(thank God) with no finger/other issues except the itch for trigger time.

NRA LIFER
IDPA BELEIVER Are you shooting at 25 and 50 yds.? I didn't think so...........................mon amie. If you are, you're one of the very few who uses a CM9 for 25 and 50 yds.

[bugs]

never tried 50 yds.;the deepest bay I'm aware of in my area is about 60 ft.,and seldom do the MDs use all of that, as it would be very,very close to breaking the 180 rule. I do routinely practice 41ft. head/57ft. body shots, because new rules allow those distances in a standards (skill)stage; most stages are from 0/20 ft.,18 rnds. max. IMHO,50 yards is beyond the scope of realistic defensive shooting and IMHO is STRICTLY a skill test used in a match situation.

NRA LIFER
IDPA BELEIVER

[Bawanna]

50 yards is time for a rifle in my book. Plenty of time to run or hide in a defensive situation.

For me now days 25 yards is a poke even with a 1911.

[bugs]

I could not agree more !

NRA LIFER
IDPA BELEIVER

[1stnamebassist]

This doesn't sound like a problem that would have made Mother Teresa weep. Tiny .380s are not really meant for extended range sessions. It is a basic trade-off of their small size and weight, though I know a CT 380 is more shooting oriented than its smaller relatives. If you can shoot 50 rounds without hand damage, you should count yourself lucky. I once had an all steel blowback action .380 that was extremely painful and was amazingly inaccurate.
If you want to pursue this without resorting to finger liposuction, the first thing I would try is a Wolff 5# striker spring. This might change the pull characteristics just enough to make the problem disappear or it might not, but it is a low cost, easy fix, if it works.
If this does not work and, since you sound comfortable using tools, you might work on the trigger surface and shape as you outline. Its tricky to remove and replace a Kahr trigger. Full disclosure: I have never seen a .380 Kahr, but I assume the trigger setup is the same as for larger polymer Kahrs. If possible, try to avoid disassembly and, instead, work on the trigger in place.
I recommend placing the gun in a padded vice held by the slide and, with the polymer surfaces masked by tape, filing the upper trigger flatter and tapering down as you outlined. Filing just the front of the trigger flat opens more finger space with less metal removal and might hold your finger better. I would use a round diamond file like those used for sharpening chainsaws. If you are not too sensitive about the aesthetics, leave the trigger face rough to help hold your finger in place better during the trigger press. Since you are not disassembling the gun, it is easy to remove it from the vice to test periodically, though the real test will be extended range shooting, of course.
i find the CT 380 much more shootable than my buddy's Bodyguard. We were at the range Sunday and we put 100 plus rounds through both guns and I guess the grip sleeve as well as Galloway striker spring kit helped as I had no issues with finger cuts or scrapes or booboos or whatever! I do believe in shooting what I carry as much as possible or what I can afford anyway. The CT380 is not a range gun but is a very shootable, fun, accurate gun. I'll probably leave the trigger alone as everything seems ok now. Didn't realize what a pain to remove the trigger can be. Your idea with clamping and using a chainsaw file would be a great way to rework the shape then follow up with a dremel with sanding drums then polish. Now I need to stop obsessing over getting an MK9 or 40. The 9 is pricey but I'm seeing the 40 on sale for less than 500. Never owned a forty or shot one for that matter so probably passing on that would be a good idea. Thanks for the trigger rework idea.

[Ed M]

Now I need to stop obsessing over getting an MK9


Resistance is futile.....


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