New Lakeline Striker - New Springs - Holy Cow!

[Chaplain]

After a broken striker event (see other thread) I ordered, and rejoiced to receive, a Lakeline LLC striker. Nice Part. Solves problems.

When installed the Lakeline striker I also installed a new striker spring. All was good.

The recoil springs I ordered from Kahr with the striker springs were on backorder. So I waited...expectantly....and they finally came. HOLY INCREDIBLE SPRING STRENGTH. I really struggled to get a new set in. WOW!. My thumb still hurts! In the loading procedure the slide really slams home now. At this point my wife will never be able to pull the slide back. I plan a trip to the range soon - just to see what the new springs are like.

By-the-way, The new springs are considerably longer than the set I took out. The same was the case with the previously replaced striker spring.

[dsk]

I had trouble putting in the new recoil springs as well, and left the slide locked open overnight. The next morning I disassembled the pistol, and the springs were the same length as the old ones and much easier to put back in. All the springs in this pistol take a set fairly quickly.

[Redfish]

My PM 40 eats them. 500 rounds max and the gun starts slapping the inside of my hand. New spring cures it immediately. I've had two that felt normal, as in not difficult to install but not worn out either, and one that took me almost 20 min to get in the gun. Then the slide refused to lock open. After repeatedly racking it, which was not easy, I got it to lock. Left it locked for a week. Worked ok after that and wore out in the usual amount of time. Last one was installed by Kahr while working on another problem. The diameter of the retaining cap at the front of the assembly was such that it barely fit in the hole in the front of the slide. It had to be wiggled to get it to go through and then it would stick on the outside. I have a photo of the spring in the slide with a gap between the rear end of the spring assembly and it's seat under the barrel. Not sure whose gun they made it for but it wasn't mine. What's amazing is that it would still shoot without a hiccup. Either the cap or the hole in the slide has since worn from shooting and now slips through without a struggle. Not sure which one. Guess I'll find out next spring change.
Don

[Chaplain]

Today I got to the range. New Springs 'shot in' pretty quickly. After a couple of mags working the slide was normal. The Lakeline LLC striker still worked flawlessly. I have been dry firing. And, I have not cleaned out the striker channel since the first trip to the range with it. I think I have about 300 rounds now, 100 with fresh recoil springs. I did not perceive any need to change springs. I just did so because I did not know how long the originals had be in there (how many rounds).

My P380 has always performed flawlessly with Hornady Critical Defense ammo. There have been some stove pipes and some failures to feed with other ammo. Improving my grip has really reduced that. But I've never had a problem with good ammo.

Also, since I put in the a replacement striker from Kahr (after the first one broke) and after I put in the Lakeline LLC striker in, I have had no hint of light strikes. (I also put a fresh striker spring in with the new striker). I am really really happy with the Lakeline LLC striker. It seems to work great. It worked great with the older recoil springs and works great with the new springs.

As others have predicted, the new recoil springs are now normal, after 100 rounds.

[SlowBurn]

A trick with new recoil springs: its easier get the slide to the locked open state if you insert an EMPTY mag. Don't have to worry about the slide lock. The lock back feature holds it open. All you have to concentrate on is pulling the slide and pushing the grip.
Gets easier pretty fast, especially after a trip to the firing range.

[tkarl]

Brand New CW380 owner here -- my first Kahr. Got it just 2 days ago. I have not shot my CW380 yet. I had seen several videos about the gun, and expected initially stiff springs. I was STILL unprepared! My first field strip took about 20 minutes of excruciating work to get the gun back together, and I was tired out afterwards. I've left the slide locked back. The next time I did a field strip, it went smoothly. Also, I can lock the slide back more easily now.

I will say this: Compared to other guns I have, my Kahr seems to have almost no spring force when the slide nears closing -- and I'm betting that this is why Kahr wants us to chamber a round by using the slide release. Thoughts?

[Bobshouse]

You know, while Kahr does a magnificent job at miniaturizing gun parts, they fail miserably at springs. To make the p380 and the other 380 series (along with most of their small models) viable they would have to miniaturize the springs...to a degree. I showed a friend my P380 and he couldn't even rack the slide back to ensure the weapon was clear before looking it over.

[topgun1953]

I will say this: Compared to other guns I have, my Kahr seems to have almost no spring force when the slide nears closing -- and I'm betting that this is why Kahr wants us to chamber a round by using the slide release. Thoughts?

I'm not sure if that is why, but Kahr seems to have a lot of variation in the 380's springs strength. When I sent mine in for its last striker replacement (I say last because now I have a Lakeline striker), Kahr replaced the slide, barrel, striker and recoil springs. I didn't ask why. Well the springs would barely put the thing into battery! New? I immediately just ordered new ones...now the thing slams shut like I believe it should. Note, and someone correct me if I'm wrong. The striker is partially tensioned when the gun is in battery, so the recoil spring is working against that force. Also if you have a round chambered and a mag inserted, there is usually some friction with the top round causing some force against the recoil spring. Take out the mag and you see the difference.

[muggsy]

Kahr wants you to use the slide stop, because many shooters have a tendency to ride the slide and that doesn't work. Failures to go into battery occur. Jams occur. Done properly you should be able to rack the slide just like any other gun once your through the break-in period.

[dsk]

I will say this: Compared to other guns I have, my Kahr seems to have almost no spring force when the slide nears closing -- and I'm betting that this is why Kahr wants us to chamber a round by using the slide release. Thoughts?

Mine is the same way, and I'm sure everyone else's is as well. I think the lack of strong tension at the end of the slide travel likely contributes to the occasional failures to fully chamber, and in my case is likely contributing to the light primer strikes once my pistol gets dirty. I wish Kahr would redesign these pistols somehow and come up with a captive recoil spring assembly similar to the Glock 42. Little .380 pistols like these are going to be pretty heavily sprung but my Kahr seems to go through springs faster that I do clean shirts.

[shrekfingers]

An tactical firearms instructor once showed me that most people try to actuate the slide incorrectly. They try pulling the side back and most times have the weapon extended out at half or sometimes full length where their arms are the weakest. He showed us to hold the weapon at solar plexus height, hands about a foot from the chest or closer and push the gun instead of pulling the slide. More surface area to push on and more strength in the arms pushing than pulling.

My wife could not pull the Kahr slide back until we practiced the pushing and not pulling, now she can activate it easily, after seeing it work for her, I cant argue with his nugget of info.

[covey582]

New CW380 owner. Put 100 rounds through with only one failure to extract (about 75 rounds into the 100) when my wife was trying the gun (she fired 6 ... the second failed to extract) ... we thought it likely was a limp wrist situation for that one round. Otherwise the gun is smooth and love the trigger. Reassembly after cleaning causes the only "why did they design it THIS way??" moment. That is, reinstalling the recoil rod and springs. The open end of both springs are prone to sliding out of the forward recoil rod hole before the rod can be pushed forward and slide in place. Any CW380 operators know of any technique to not have that happen? The spring reassembly is as bad as what you find on Kel Tecs (I've had two) -- certainly unexpected on a Kahr (with the Kahr reputation for excellence.) IMHO, reinstalling the recoil rod + springs is ridiculous on the CW380.

[Bobshouse]

Welcome to the forum. No real secret here, but what works for me is to have the open ends together facing the barrel (to the top) when assembling. Less of a chance for them to stick through while your wrestling with the guiderod.

[tricker]

Twist the springs like your loseing them as you install