S&W Highway Patrolman

[JohnR]

I was shopping for a Smith K-frame but this called my name. It appears to be made in 1978, but it needs a little TLC. The cylinder gets tight about 3-4 rounds into shooting, but never in dry fire. The ejector rod isn't loose. But when open, the cylinder does shift a tiny bit front to back. I scrubbed it good, so maybe it was just dirty. Oh, and the cylinder gap is like zero.

Where does one go to fix such things?

[Bawanna]

I'm not certain but seems like I've heard S&W is good about fixing up stuff such as this.
Kind of an upgrade or recondition thing.
Zero cylinder gap is not good, I suspect the culprit is in the ejector assembly inside the cylinder but could be other things.

Fine looking gun, it deserves to be fixed up.

[RRP]

Have you shot it since scrubbing? Does the cylinder still drag?

[CJB]

I "think" that S&W used to mark the last few digits of the serial number under the star. Make sure they're matching.

Then... with the cylinder closed, and a scrupulously clean pistol, is there front back endplay. There ought to be some, just a little.

My guess is that the end of the crane (internally) has worn a bit, mushroomed a little perhaps. Three fixes. Replace the crane (too expensive!), shim it internally (washers sold on Brownells site) or stretch it (with the right tool).

Forget replace.

Shim washers used to be available in .001 through .004 thicknesses. If you have proper head space, (aka rim clearance) with the cylinder held back, and at the same time have ok cylinder gap, the shims work fine.

Alternately, there is a tool set sold to stretch the crane. You get inserts of various sizes that fit the inside diameter of the crane, and a tool that looks like a pipe cutter but... which has a rather wide (and dull) "blade". Basically you roll the end of the crane in the tool, and it displaces metal, making the overall length a bit greater. Since we're talking about only a few .001's of an inch, its ok to do.

However, if the gaps front and back are not right, then....you gotta make the back gap right using the above methods, allowing about .004 for dirt. Then you gotta trim the back of the barrel with a facing tool, also available from Brownells.

And... are you sure you're just not getting unburnt powder between the star and the cylinder? Common on reloads.

Since it dry fires ok, I'm going to assume (aaak!) that the alignment is good, and its just a matter of correcting spacing caused by firing of many heavy loads.

You can take it to a smithy...he may want to face the back of the crane and then put in shims - easiest thing to do. And, its user correctable in long term use. The downside is if you take off the crane to do a really good clean up job, you may lose a shim washer, so... you gotta pay attention and fiddle with things a bit more than a non shimmed crane. Or you can just add shims and not face the crane if it doesn't look all beat up on the end. Typically, they mushroom a bit... but are even.

Hope that helps!

[jeepster09]

The model 28 is a great gun if that is what it is. I have had several and regret selling them.

[JohnR]

28-2, yes. I haven't shot it since cleaning. When I say zero cylinder space, I can't see daylight through it. I haven't measured anything. I can't see any markings under the star.

If sending it to the mothership is a good option I may do that. I've heard mixed reviews of their CS, so I don't know what to expect, time or money wise.

[Scarywoody]

My Ruger SP101 suffered fro the same issues. I took a nail file to the forcing cone edge and removed a bunch of carbon build up. Cleared up he problem.

[RRP]

Before sending it to S&W, I would go talk to this guy (http://www.gunsmithsinc.com/contact/). He's in your neighborhood.

[JohnR]

Awesome, a reputable smith so close by? I will pay him a visit.

[Tilos]

Check for bullet jump tying up the cylinder, as you mentioned it getting tight after 3-4 rounds.
I know, a long shot guess,
:p











a "long shot" :rolleyes:

[OvalNut]

Not a functionally related comment, but I LOVE that blued steel look. I prefer semi-autos over revolvers, yet, Man that sure looks nice! I bet it will be fun to shoot too when you get it sorted out.


Tim

[Longitude Zero]

Send it in to S&W and they will make it good as new for a reasonable fee.

[JohnR]

How long does that take?

[Longitude Zero]

How long does that take?

It depends upon their backlog and what you want done. Give them a call to check out the timeline.

[Barth]

Yup, I bought a used 65-3 with the same type of issues.
Any old school revolver gunsmith can tune it up on the cheap.
I think I paid $35 bucks - LOL.
Now it's nothing but sweet.:cool:
http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r678/barthunderwood/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-08/20150805_151320_001_zpsspm27rw0.jpg

[JohnR]

Two good options. The "old school" part is vital, I know.

[muggsy]

John, you lucky guy. You have a real winner there. Hang onto it. I let mine go and still regret it.

[getsome]

Very nice revolver John...I would definitely call S&W and get a repair shipping ticket and let them fix it....I've had good results with their repair department...My 629 started to have trigger issues and they fixed it with a new hammer and trigger for free.....I have a 4506 semi auto .45 and it broke the trigger return spring and again they were great and fixed it for free....Turn around time was longer with the 629 because it was sent back during the Christmas holiday and it was gone about a month but the 4506 was back in about 3 weeks....That's a real nice heavy duty revolver and it may have some cylinder or crane wear which they will take care of.... Always best to let the mother ship take a look especially if it's under warranty....Good luck with it!

[JohnR]

I left it with a smith who seemed to know what he was doing.

In the mean time, I'm still looking at revolvers on Gunbroker. I think I'm becoming a revolver guy!

This was at various distances from 5 to 20 yards with my SP101.

http://www.kahrtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13572&stc=1

[Bawanna]

Fellow face shooter huh?