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View Full Version : Feed Failures with new Kahr CW380



johnchap2
06-25-2016, 12:04 PM
I apologize in advance for the length of this post, but I felt detail on what I have tried and am considering could assist any responders in their recommendations.

Just bought a CW380 and a CM9. Out of the box the CM9 worked flawlessly on first trip to range with 50 rounds through it. OTOH, the CW380 had one feed failure after another, as follows: On each test the first cartridge was chambered without a problem using the lock back lever and fired, but the subsequent rounds in the clip would not fully feed. I think in about 12 or more tries I only had the second round load and fire once, with feed problems with the rest. In other words, at best I might have one or two second rounds feed properly, but then the next one in the clip would jam. The feed problem is that the cartridge would be stuck partially chambered at a slight angle with the slide not fully closing. I was using 3 kinds of ammo [Remington Gold Saber HPJ, Hornady 90 gr XTP, and Winchester 95 gr – and yes I have since read that squared off Win are not recommended because of loading problems], and had 3 new Kahr clips (one 5 rnd came with the gun; one 5 rnd and one 7 rnd bought separately). Problem was present for each of the cartridge/clip combinations.

On close inspection I also noticed that each of the clips would leave tiny scratches on the two upper sides of the brass. Is this normal, or is each clip a bit too tight (pinched) at the top?

I am a fairly strong guy, although I do have a bit of arthritis in both hands. The CM9 was pretty stiff to rack back – much harder than my 1911 – but still doable since the larger slide provides a bigger grip. In general I could not rack the CW380 without using assistance such as a Handi-Racker or similar. My method of loading the CW380 is to load empty clip; use Handi-Racker to lock the slide back; replace empty clip with full clip; and then use lock release to chamber the first round. Never had a problem chambering this first round. While I have read that the smaller guns require a stiffer return spring, what I have with the CW380 is ridiculous, with the CM9's not much better. Making the racking problem even more difficult is the fact that due to the small size of the CW380 there is not much to grab onto.

Using a rather crude methodology I measured the force in pounds required to fully lock back the slides on the CW380, the CM9 and a model 1911. The methodology was to fit a plastic tube around the barrel and press the gun with empty clip down on the middle of a bathroom scale until the slide locks back. While the actual values may not be precise, the values for the three guns relative to each other are probably correct. The 1911 needed only about 18 lbs, while the two Kahrs each required about 27 lbs of force, nearly twice the force of the 1911. Is all that extra force really necessary?

One of the previous posts in this section that I read suggested that one of the possible causes of feed problems is that the cartridge being used was not powerful enough to force the slide fully back, thus causing the misfeed, and that a more powerful cartridge might overcome this problem. Sounded plausible to me, especially since chambering from the locked back position always worked in my tests with the CW380, and the fact that the return spring was so stiff. Since the force required to lock back both Kahrs measured the same, perhaps it is simply the more powerful 9mm cartridge that prevented feed problems in the CM9. I would appreciate some knowledgeable opinions on this, and perhaps recommendations re more powerful cartridges. Think +P cartridges would overcome the problem? In looking at a .380 ballistics chart it appears that the 3 cartridges I tested have a muzzle energy of 200 ft/lbs or less. Buffalo Bore has a number of .380 cartridges above 250 ft/lbs. Is Buffalo Bore worth a serious test? Of course, buying something special like Buffalo Bore adds significantly to the cost of breaking in the gun and future practice. The gun cannot currently be "broken in" with the ammo I have given the failure rate.

Possibly relevant/related experience – Nearly 50 years ago I bought a .22 LR S&W model Mod 61-2 which had a reputation for bad feeds – a reputation that I did not know about when I bought it. The cure for me was to use high velocity cartridges and not the standard LR. The standard LR would jam repeatedly while the HV LR very seldom jammed.

If the theory of needing a more powerful cartridge to force full racking is true, loading the gun with a single cartridge (with the cartridges I am testing) before firing might/should result in the slide not being locked back on the empty clip; at least some of the time. Unfortunately this did not occur to me while I was at the range where I could have easily and quickly run this single cartridge test several times to test the theory. Too bad because this would have been an easy theory to test out at the range, and I do not live in an area where I could simply go out into my yard to test things by firing few rounds.

Am also looking for some other suggestions that I can try. No, I did not disassemble the gun and clean it, but visually inspecting it showed it was reasonably clean with no excessive oil. Certainly as good as or better than it might ordinarily be if and when I ever feel comfortable putting it into service.
In any case, next week I will be visiting the dealer from where it was purchased to get his advice and hopefully some action on the issue, but I would like some input from this website before going there.

PS: for what it might be worth, with the slide locked and pistol facing down cartridges will simply fall into the chamber with ease; no binding or rubbing.
Also, per one suggestion on this Kahr website, I have been storing the guns with the slide locked open to hopefully reduce over time the level of effort required to rack the slides.

Alfonse
06-25-2016, 12:49 PM
The CW380 requires a stiffer grip than the CM9. Have somebody else shoot it first to see if it is a grip issue. I had thousands of rounds through a PM9 and my grip was initially not working with the CW380. Yes, the springs do need to be that stiff, or they don't feed correctly. Welcome, folks here will help get it figured out.

johnchap2
06-25-2016, 01:43 PM
Thanks for the tip. I learned about "stiff grip" a couple of years ago, and it helped in stopping some feeding problems with my 1911. Except for the 1911 and a competition .22 I have always used revolvers (will fire virtually anything that can loaded into the cylinder and basically can't jam) and allowed them to rock up a bit to diminish the recoil; especially with the larger calibers. Of course, that softer holding can cause problems with semi-autos. And with the new CM9 I had no problems since I was using about the same grip as I had with the 1911. But it simply did not occur to me to pay extra attention to my gripping with the CW380 when it was misfeeding. It will be great if this cures my feeding problem (as opposed to the overeating one [grin]).

kwh
06-25-2016, 01:45 PM
With my CW380, it was not so much how tightly I squeezed the grip but more about that I had to have an absolutely straight wrist. My reasoning is that such a small pistol needs an "unmovable" force directly behind it to allow the slide to fully cycle. For me straight wrist was more important than "limp" wrist.

Alfonse
06-25-2016, 02:36 PM
I have big hands so the little 380 was rocking around in my palm even though the PM9 was fine.

marshal kane
06-25-2016, 03:21 PM
Your comment on the magazines leaving "tiny scratches on the two upper sides of the brass" would indicate to me that the inner feed lips on the magazines have burrs. Smooth feed lips on magazines do not scratch cartridges. Also burrs create resistance to cartridges from being smoothly slid out of the magazine on their way to the chamber ramp. In addition, burrs create resistance which drains the slide's energy to chamber rounds. I initially had feed/chambering problems with my new P9 and traced it back to burrs on the inner feed lips of all three new magazines. If your cartridge cases exhibit signs of scratches, you need to smooth out the magazine's inner feed lips. Start by depressing the magazine follower, then lock the follower out by inserting something like a nail through the magazine's inspection hole above the follower. Take a hardened steel rod, like the end of a drill bit and rub the inner edge of the feed lips until smooth. When the feed lips are smooth, remove the nail from the magazine and load a fresh round. Push the round out of the magazine with your thumb and check the case for scratches. Repeat the rubbing as necessary. This cured the feed/chambering problems with my P9. You may have other problems with your new Kahrs, but this is as good as any place to start.

If you don't eliminate this possible source of trouble, with lots of shooting the magazine feed lips will eventually smooth itself out but in the meantime your feed/chambering problems will just continue until it happens.

dustnchips
06-25-2016, 03:25 PM
First, find the sticky that has the prep information for the Khars. Follow that then lube per the other sticky. Rack the slide at least 200 times. Now it is ready for the range. I usually rack the slide by gripping with my off hand reaching over the slide. My thumb I'll be along the slide on my body side and the fingers away from my body. Pull it in close to your body so that you will have more leverage. After a few hundred rounds it will loosen up a little, but never anywhere near your 1911. I had 10 problems my first 100 rounds with my CW380 which I had racked 200 times. I took it home and prepped and lubed and have not had one failure since. Once you get it running you will love it.

dustnchips
06-25-2016, 03:30 PM
The stickies I mentioned are found in the New Member area.

RolandD
06-25-2016, 07:42 PM
Yes, follow the new Kahr prep as outlined in the sticky mentioned above. Smooth out the lips in your mags. Leave the mags loaded and the slide locked back until it begins to run right, and work on your grip. Rack the slide over and over.

If you do all those things, you should be good. Also, read up on what ammo people are having the best luck with in their new CW380s.

nmkahrshooter
06-25-2016, 09:00 PM
I purchased my CW380 in May. Working for a LGS I knew about Kahrs. I cleaned gun and lubed it. Purchased 250 rounds of magtec 380 ammo. I did not have one problem with my gun at all. The springs were tight but NO feeding problems. Look at cleaning and lube get some good FMJ ammo and shoot it. I stress clean and lube! Hopefully that will cure the problem if it doesn't i'd give Kahr a call. Hope this helps.

Ronni3_J
06-25-2016, 09:27 PM
My suggestion is to lube the heck out of it, clean the burs on the magazines, and be conscious of your grip. I haven't had any issues with the amo you used, even the flat nosed Winchesters

johnchap2
06-26-2016, 09:02 AM
Thanks. Worked like a charm and got rid of the scratches. Cartridges now load and unload smoothly with less effort. While you did not mention it, I put bits (2 different sizes) into a drill with butt end out, and ran for just a few seconds. I felt using a drill would result in a more even smoothing. Will do the same for my new CM9, although it has not had any feeding problems.

marshal kane
06-26-2016, 09:46 AM
Removing the burrs from the magazine feed lips is often overlooked because it is such an insignificant part of the entire pistol and ultimately just doing a lot of shooting will eventually smooth things out. The Kahr is a small pistol and as such, little things are important to proper functioning. Things like improper grip, limp wristing, weak ammunition, burrs, etc. can all add up to make shooting miserable. The rounds from my P9 magazines come out like greased pigs from a chute and the brass exhibits no scratches at all. It was the cause of my problems during break-in. I've run 2000 rounds through my pistol since then without a single problem. I hope this cures your feed/chambering problems, good luck at your next range session. BTW, thanks for the tip on using the power drill along with the reversed bits.

johnchap2
07-13-2016, 10:43 AM
After having lubed the new gun per forum’s advice and purchased some Remington finally made it to the range to try again, with special attention to firmly holding the gun. This time ran both Remington and Winchester. Much better than my first outing (probably because I was paying strict attention to the way I was holding it), but still many feed problems. I fired about 70+ rounds and had 12-15 feed problems. Most were handled by hitting the rear of the slide to fully seat the cartridge, but a few required removing the mag and pulling back on the slide. I will look again at smoothing the mags (had the same problems with all three mags), but will also call Kahr.
I am really disappointed with this gun. I bought a CM9 at the same time, and after 100| rounds through it not a single glitch. Plus the trigger pull on the CM9 is night and day better than the CW380's, which to me is noticeably longer than the CM9's.

Bawanna
07-13-2016, 10:56 AM
Is the top of the chamber hood getting beat up? Wonder if it's peening? That will cause failures to go fully into battery.

Don't see it hardly ever now days but once in awhile.

dustnchips
07-13-2016, 01:53 PM
The bolt face on my CW380 was rough and I polished it out to. I use 600-900 wet and dry sand paper for such things. I don't know if the bolt face polishing worked or not because I did all of the other prep work at the same time. It has run flawlessly since then. I hope you cleaned the striker channel as suggested. Junk in there could make the trigger rough. Also the face of the striker where it gets pulled back could be rough. I just generally polish anything that slides over another part.

Harrylee
07-13-2016, 04:00 PM
Just wondering could the Extractor have some sharp edges on it when the round slides up in it. You may just want to take a look at that next time, if the rim of the case digs into it may be slowing the cycle rate down and not going into full battery . Just a thought

marshal kane
07-14-2016, 07:29 AM
Along with taking the burrs out of the magazine feed lips, you can also try loading fewer rounds in the magazines. A new Kahr is full of strong springs and until the pistol is broken in and the springs take a set, you may experience the feed problems you're having. Once the springs take a set, go back to fully loading your magazines. Another suggestion is to lock the slide back and leave it that way for about a week. Little pistols have strong recoil springs and leaving the slide locked back will let the recoil spring set faster. Sure wish I was your next door neighbor so I could check out your pistol personally rather than trouble-shoot your problem unseen on a site. You can always send the pistol back to Kahr under warranty and let them take a look at it. Keep us in the loop on what's happening. We haven't run out of ideas yet.