New recoil springs for my P380...PITA!

[allthumbsplusone]

I decided to put some new recoil springs in my used early model p380. Came in promptly from Kahr but the inner spring was about a half inch longer than the old one. Could not get it in place. Called Kahr and they said it was normal and that my short original spring was once that long. Well I gritted my teeth and had it almost in place when it slipped and the spring guide rod shot out glanced off my head and I spent the next half hour looking for it. Found it and with a little different manipulation finally got it together--where it will stay for the next month or 400 rounds, whichever comes first. Beware, wear eye protection and maybe try to put the whole thing together in a big clear bag so when the spring goes flying you wont be searching the house for it :)

[zredwire]

My CW380 was similar. The new springs I ordered were much longer. I finally got them in and locked the slide back for the night. The next day I took the springs back off and they had already taken a set and were almost as short as the ones they replaced.

[allthumbsplusone]

My CW380 was similar. The new springs I ordered were much longer. I finally got them in and locked the slide back for the night. The next day I took the springs back off and they had already taken a set and were almost as short as the ones they replaced.


Thanks for the reply. Great to hear. I was lamenting the fact I may have to wrestle with them for a while. I have replaced the striker spring that was soft with a wolff reduced power spring and the pull is not just about 5 lbs. It ws more in the 4 lbs 6 oz before. Never had any real problems with light strikes but I wanted the trigger pull similar to my pm9 which is just under 5 with the wolff spring. I have my mag springs on order and then all will be good as new. This is all preventative as I have had only 2 misfires with this gun with 4-500 rounds through and various ammo. Both misfires were with Freedom Munitions factory reloads and upon inspection the primer was hit solid but did not fire. I think it was a primer seating issue. I love this gun. I really cannot think of any other I would rather carry.. Tried the Big dot sights but they just seemed too awkward to me. My old thinker cannot put the dot on top of the rear sight instead of between them. The nice thing about the p380 is that it is a natural pointer. At 15 feet I can consistantly group in the kill zone of a silloutte target without aiming, just instinctive point and shoot. Anything farther than that at night and I would be guessing at the target or what is behind it.

[CJB]

REMINDER:

Its not the length of the replacement spring, but, the number of coils. Sometimes Kahr spring replacement (or spares as they say in the UK) are a coil or two extra, and in fact must be trimmed. If the coil count is ok, you're good to go to wrestle and cajole that bad boy into place - and - break in your pistol all over again.

[kwh]

Have not tried it, but read a hint from one of our members. Place new recoil spring over bolt of proper length. Use washer and nut to compress spring for a day or two.

[Bobshouse]

Well I gritted my teeth and had it almost in place when it slipped and the spring guide rod shot out glanced off my head and I spent the next half hour looking for it. :)

Wow, broke another one eh? I'm sure if you call Kahr and explained how you broke the replacement, they will gladly ship another!:p

[CJB]

Have not tried it, but read a hint from one of our members. Place new recoil spring over bolt of proper length. Use washer and nut to compress spring for a day or two.

That method, seriously, will not work well.

Have a look thru Google, and take a look at the metallurgy of springs, especially wire coil springs. I think you'll find, from reputable sources, that springs like a recoil spring need rapid and full compression to achieve their "set" (or flat spot in the wear curve).

My own take on all I came across is to shoot the hottest ammo you can get, for break in, then you can shoot most anything (aka WWB).

[topgun1953]

That method, seriously, will not work well.

Have a look thru Google, and take a look at the metallurgy of springs, especially wire coil springs. I think you'll find, from reputable sources, that springs like a recoil spring need rapid and full compression to achieve their "set" (or flat spot in the wear curve).

My own take on all I came across is to shoot the hottest ammo you can get, for break in, then you can shoot most anything (aka WWB).

dang science and google! Must have been my imagination that the spring was compressed somewhat after the bolt treatment....BTW...its tough to compress the new spring by shooting the hottest ammo you can get if it's still on the kitchen counter because you can't get the bugger in the gun! 😢😢😢. All joking aside though, I use the bolt treatment to just compress it some so it will be easier to install, not achieve their "set"....just sayin.

i lost a recoil spring once. Found it when I shook an artificial tree in the room and it fell to the floor!!😳😳

[CJB]

Well... don't bugger science too much, nor Google. Nor my old brain for that matter, as I first learnt this crap 40+ years ago, and now I gotta go to Google to reactivate the old memory engrams.

The stationary compression "trick" , just like locking the slide back for a few days to a week, will "work" to shorten the spring, to some extent. But, its not effective as the rapid cycling of the spring to full compression.

I do not recall exactly, nor have been able to find online, about the tension during the lifespan of the spring, with one method vs the other. Rapid flexing is the best medicine. Faster than you can "hand rack". Shoot the hottest stuff you can get for break in. You want the most slide velocity you can muster! That will soon get the spring onto its long, rather straight, slope of tension decline, until the spring finally reaches the lower limit of its useful tension. The curve rapidly decreases tension, and then levels off (not really level) until it won't work anymore in that application. By using, flexing the metal, rearranging the structure of the metal under its actual operative conditions, you're getting there via the best route. Other means of reducing tension may result in a shorter life on that sweet (flat) spot of tension.

YMMV, yada yada yada, and my advice is worth the price paid!

[allthumbsplusone]

Well... don't bugger science too much, nor Google. Nor my old brain for that matter, as I first learnt this crap 40+ years ago, and now I gotta go to Google to reactivate the old memory engrams.

The stationary compression "trick" , just like locking the slide back for a few days to a week, will "work" to shorten the spring, to some extent. But, its not effective as the rapid cycling of the spring to full compression.

I do not recall exactly, nor have been able to find online, about the tension during the lifespan of the spring, with one method vs the other. Rapid flexing is the best medicine. Faster than you can "hand rack". Shoot the hottest stuff you can get for break in. You want the most slide velocity you can muster! That will soon get the spring onto its long, rather straight, slope of tension decline, until the spring finally reaches the lower limit of its useful tension. The curve rapidly decreases tension, and then levels off (not really level) until it won't work anymore in that application. By using, flexing the metal, rearranging the structure of the metal under its actual operative conditions, you're getting there via the best route. Other means of reducing tension may result in a shorter life on that sweet (flat) spot of tension.

YMMV, yada yada yada, and my advice is worth the price paid!


Well thanks all for the advise, but this seems to make the most sense. But heck it is just a spring, albeit a pain in the *&%%* one.