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Harrylee
02-16-2017, 03:07 PM
Well here I go again, I am curious about a lot of things and sometimes I do things just to see how it’s done. So anyway my buddy and me were sitting in my shop last week and came up on the discussion about reloads and smoke. Well we have 3 factors 1 the wax on the bullet, 2 the powder itself and 3 is the lead vaporizing? Well twist my arm (OK I’ll go to the range and take some footage) the hardest part was doing a crash course in video editing. Had it almost done a few times when the computer would crash, pushing this old computer to it’s limits. So got a little smarter and saved every step of the way and got it done. Well hope you guys like it
HEY DOWNTOWNV that range look familiar?
I think I did a little better in this video than the first, still stumbled a few times(hey I’m a rookie actor):)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C63DizM6N1o

downtownv
02-16-2017, 05:25 PM
Why, Yes! I destroyed a target there!
We need to go there again, when the weather gets a bit warmer.

yqtszhj
02-16-2017, 07:44 PM
Coated and JRN seemed less smoky. Those JRN seemed to give more muzzle flash too. Do you know if there was any chrono difference in the different last 3 loads?

Harrylee
02-16-2017, 08:06 PM
Now the 231 I didn’t have my own load data for, went strictly off the books for that. I do have a problem with the reloading info in the books, one book says one thing and another will give a completely different load. So I pick the middle road and load a few at a time then chrono them and see what way to go. Did see more muzzle flash with the 231 than others, did have faster powders and slower powders but the 231 gave the biggest flash. Then again they all have different base quantities

Tilos
02-16-2017, 08:15 PM
Great test/vid
About the same results has I have experienced, and the reason I switched from traditional lubed cast bullets to coated cast or swaged bullets.
The gun stays way cleaner, the lube doesn't collect in the dies, and I'm not handling lead.
The coating varies from maker to maker, with some being glossy and some flat, and some (the flat/Blue Bullets) the coating ends up on you hands just by handling to re-load.
Could be more toxic than lead, but who knows.
:D

gb6491
02-16-2017, 09:19 PM
Excellent video Harrylee, thank you for the time and effort involved with making it happen. :cool:
My buddy and I were just discussing this the other day after he mentioned he had gone completely to Berry's bullets. He used to use some lead bullets that would really smoke a place up... I have to say I miss those sometimes... the smoke lingering had an old west saloon shoot out feel to it and the cursing from other folks shooting was kind of humorous.
Regards,
Greg

340pd
02-17-2017, 04:54 PM
Good video. I get to experience this in real time a couple of times per week as an RSO. I stopped using lead years ago and did try some coated bullets but went back to plated for all my calibers.

Figure a way to come up with an accurate powder burn test.

At the end of the day when cleanup time comes you wouldn't believe the amount of unburned powder we sweep up on the first 10 feet of floor.

Harrylee
02-18-2017, 02:47 PM
Yeah know what you mean about the powder residue. I see it at the range too, now is the faster powder better, or the ball powder better then there are two basic types of modern smokeless powder: single and double base. Single-base smokeless powder is made from nitrocellulose. Double-base smokeless powder is a combination of nitrocellulose and nitroglycerin. A lot of combs and to find the best is hard. Gonna try a few more tests and see if I can figure something. When I do I’ll put it up.

yqtszhj
02-18-2017, 04:58 PM
This is good stuff and a good thread. Can't say there aren't some sharp folks on this forum.

Does anyone see Harrylee as a youth like this?

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/97/7f/a2/977fa24b973f676a823f7df3f1bc1f23.jpg

And Harrylee's garage looking like this? Greg's cant be far behind either. I'm envious.

https://uncgbls.files.wordpress.com/2015/02/rotwang.jpg?w=500&h=330

Tilos
02-18-2017, 05:23 PM
Yeah know what you mean about the powder residue. I see it at the range too, now is the faster powder better, or the ball powder better then there are two basic types of modern smokeless powder: single and double base. Single-base smokeless powder is made from nitrocellulose. Double-base smokeless powder is a combination of nitrocellulose and nitroglycerin. A lot of combs and to find the best is hard. Gonna try a few more tests and see if I can figure something. When I do I’ll put it up.

Yea, I've taken a close look at some of those leftover flakes and some look brownish, like the black coating stuff had burned off and the inert flake material was all that was left.

And another thing...

I have been using up a bunch of older large pistol primers from different mfg.'ers and noticed I get more "unburnt" powder flakes with some brands compared to CCI.
Same bullet/powder(HP-38)/load/brass/gun.
Has anyone else experienced this??
I have some magnum primers that I might try to see what stuff is left behind, for giggles.
:D

Harrylee
02-18-2017, 06:29 PM
Aw yqtszhj, almost got the picture right except I had a white beard even at a young age:D .

(From the Speer Manual #10

Magnum Primers

Magnum primers contain a greater amount and/or slightly different explosive mix than is used in standard primers. On ignition, magnum primers give longer burning, hotter flames. Their use is recommended for (1) any ammunition that will be used at or below zero degrees F., (2) with most Ball powders and (3) with slow burning rifle powders like MRP and IMR 4831 in very large cases. Magnum pistol primers often will give more uniform velocities in magnum handgun cartridges loaded with large charges or slow powders like 296, 2400 and H-110. Magnum primers may be used with faster burning or easy-to-ignite powders, but normally there will be no advantage in doing so. As when changing other components, it is advisable to reduce powder charge weights on initial loading with magnum primers.)

Notoriously ball powders, are hard to light. Most slow powders are stick and easier to light, so what is the right combination of powder and primer to make the burn follow thru without spiting unburnt powder? Now last batch of primers I got was Winchester WLP which said on the label
(LARGE PISTOL FOR STANDARD OR MAGNUM LOADS) so that a little confusing. I prefer the CCI myself. But I bought 10,000 of the Winchester’s and am almost out of them, does that mean I shoot a lot? So the next time I’m gonna bring some factory loads and film them and watch how much smoke they produce. It’s all a puzzle just got to get the right portions and ingredients without doing any harm. OK enough for now. Oh yqtszhj did get a chicken coop to burn down when I was young a kid (my bad!):(