Quick PM9 takedown question

[copterdrvr]

Actually, two quick questions:
1. After removing the slidestop pin of my PM9 and pulling the trigger, the slide assembly moves forward and hits some resistance. I'm afraid to push too hard to get the slide to come off the gun. I've taken the pistol apart a couple of times but unfortunately I can't remember having to push so hard and I'm afraid I might screw something up. Is it that hard to push off? The slide of my CW9 seems to come off alot easier.

2. The round "nut" that holds the inner spring on can be turned by hand and has to be "tightened " up occasionally. Should I put some blue Loctite on it? The gun's had about 250 rounds through it and I purchased it new.

Thanks

[deadhead1971]

#1 I think mine has stuck a few times pulling off. Mine has also stuck a few times going back on the slide--hits something and won't slide back. I fiddled with it (touched guide rod and spring) and got it back on. I don't think you have a problem.

#2 They say red loctite is better

See what happened to me :) I had no idea these things came off until....http://kahrtalk.com/kahr-tech/863-confounded-flange.html

[Bawanna]

They dont recommend loctite for polymer. I doubt it would do any good anyhow. I get stuck often during assembly mostly. I make sure the recoil spring and rod are just right, and jiggle the trigger back and forth a tad and when you hold your mouth just right it'll slip past. I don't think you got a problem. I can dissasemble 10 times no problem and think I finally got it figured out and then # 11 I'm stuck and figure my time for a trip back to Kahr has come. I get it eventually.

[jocko]

that is a screw goinginside of a curved washer. It should not be loose but also allit does is hold that little springin place. that sprng must be able to move. I knda doubtifthat screw is loose. BT that being said, if you try to tighten it and go to far (which by the way is also an unknown) you wills trip the threads roight ouf the polymer frame., so if it ain't broke, leave it alone. Locktite willnot hold that screw. Kahr does not recommend locktite. Most locktite discussions also say that locktite willnot cure in polymer.

Crazy glue/super glue will work, if you truly feel it is to loose and possable stripped even. If youi strip it, you are screwed. again IMO if it is not broke don't fix it.

the slide taking off thing goes this way. with the pin out and not a rond in thegun, pull the trigger and it will release the slide, if should slide off with some p[ressure exerted. If it hangs up, release the trigger and then while pulling the slide off pull the trigger. It will come right off. Nothing wrong with your gun IMO, u just have not got that real feel for doing the above.

[wyntrout]

For a good bond, you need to clean the threads on the flange and the guide rod. If they were free of oil and other solvents, you could use the green variety which can be applied AFTER assembly. It is wicked in by capillary action. Red would be the stongest for that bond and require heating to about 500°F to break the bond.
NO Loctite or "Loctite-like" thread sealer should be used on plastic, though. Removal may destroy the plastic... the solvent necessary or the heat required.
I wound up using Permatex Green "penetrating grade" because I couldn't find the Loctite locally and didn't want to pay $10 shipping for 0.2 Fl Oz!
It's similar to Loctite Green, but STRONGER and requires more effort to break the bond than the Loctite version.
Check out my post on this stuff. Some of these things produce "PERMANENT" bonds.

http://kahrtalk.com/kahr-tech/2844-no-loctite-plastic-use.html

Wynn:D

[copterdrvr]

Thanks for the reply guys. The part that I'm referring to is on the end of the captive recoil spring guide of my P9. I'm at work now but I think that the center part of the guide that it screws onto is metal. The part number is 6A on the Kahr parts list and screws onto the left end as shown in the parts breakdown.

[Bawanna]

Thanks for the reply guys. The part that I'm referring to is on the end of the captive recoil spring guide of my P9. I'm at work now but I think that the center part of the guide that it screws onto is metal. The part number is 6A on the Kahr parts list and screws onto the left end as shown in the parts breakdown.

For some reason I thought you were talking about the slide lock spring screw. Reading back I'm clueless why I thought that.
On that recoil spring, loctite the crap out of it. I think Red is the strongest or that permatex stuff that Wynn mentioned. Mine thus far has not worked loose but I've often thought of welding it if it ever did, after reading about a couple falling off here. I know MichaelW's fell off while shooting also.
I'll try to read more careful like in the future. Feel like I brought an elephant gun to a squirrel hunt. Boy am I dumb........

[jocko]

for some reason i thought you were talking about the slide lock spring screw. Reading back i'm clueless why i thought that.
On that recoil spring, loctite the crap out of it. I think red is the strongest or that permatex stuff that wynn mentioned. Mine thus far has not worked loose but i've often thought of welding it if it ever did, after reading about a couple falling off here. I know michaelw's fell off while shooting also.
I'll try to read more careful like in the future. Feel like i brought an elephant gun to a squirrel hunt. Boy am i dumb........

is right, locktite that dude on.

[Popeye]

Red loctite hold up to heat better also.

[wyntrout]

Bawanna' says:
"Feel like I brought an elephant gun to a squirrel hunt. Boy am I dumb......."
That's okay. It's better to have more than you think that you'll need, than to be under-gunned... unless you're wanting to actually eat the danged tree-rat.:eek:
Wynn:D

[Bawanna]

How'd you get the picture of my gun bearer?

[wyntrout]

I guess that one would be hard to use on tree-rats. You would need a good anti-aircraft mount for THAT "squirrel-gun". Elevating that and trying to withstand the recoil would require a very heavy mount... a metal one. I tried to compute the energy of one of the standard rounds for that and came out with something in the area of 38,000 foot-pounds. WooHoo!:w00t:
Wynn:D

[Bawanna]

I only use it on my BIG power chair. No fun to shoot up, so I just blow the base of the tree out, then blast the tree rat when its on the ground. Gotta be wicked quick.
Thought about taking the setup to the fair in a couple weeks here but they's probably question my open carry rights on something like that.
Don't fear the gun. People should get used to it............
I'm peaceable, just don't rile me.

[Bawanna]

"I tried to compute the energy of one of the standard rounds for that and came out with something in the area of 38,000 foot-pounds. WooHoo!"

Is that at the muzzle? Wonder how much I lose at say 4,000 yards? If I shorten the barrel a half inch would I lose very much foot-pounds and throw my extreme spread off. I figure for defense purposes, 1/2" groups at 4,000 ain't too much to ask with a mount an all........

[wyntrout]

Muzzle velocity and here's some firing videos at YouTube:

YouTube - How to shoot a Lahti (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rV170xEEgw&NR=1)

Wynn:D

[Seahawk60]

Just clean/de-grease everything well and use red thread locker. It's not like you'll ever need to take it apart again. The captured inner spring will last a loooong time. Just change the outer spring and you'll be fine.

When/IF the guide rod/inner spring needs to be replaced, the whole assembly for a PM9 is only like $15 from Kahr. Hardly a "budget buster". Heck, if you ask nicely, they might even send you two complete "updated" new guide rod/spring assemblies for free. They did it for me. Based on over 2000 rounds on the original set, which was still going strong but retired to the parts bin, I should be set for life! :cool: