Kahr Lube Diagram

[johnh]

Here is the Kahr Lube Diagram from over at Glock Talk:

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a466/btowngeorge/KahrLubePoints.jpg
http://kahrtalk.com/members/johnh-albums-kahr-technical-information-picture48-kahr-lubrication-points.jpg

Many thanks to the original creator!

John

Hosted on postimage.org
https://s17.postimg.org/eny9pehqn/lube.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/gfr8kb13f/)

[at_liberty]

I noted that it says all "points" BUT 2, 3, & 5 without elaborating later. Those look to me to be points where I would use grease like Shooter's Choice in the syringe pack.

The other inference would be that one is using a Q-tip except at 2, 3, & 5. :confused:

[ripley16]

I noted that it says all "points" BUT 2, 3, & 5 without elaborating later. Those look to me to be points where I would use grease like Shooter's Choice in the syringe pack.

The other inference would be that one is using a Q-tip except at 2, 3, & 5. :confused:

I've always taken this to infer that using something larger, say a cleaning patch, works better on the "big" parts. Many people use patches to do the whole job.

I always use a tiny bit of TW25b on the areas where oil is prone to migrate or under higher stresses.

The chart is overall a terrific aide, especially for the novice shooter or new Kahr owner IMHO.

[jocko]

Love TW25, for me just har dto beat that lube, it doesn't run and stay right there..

[kramm]

Great info. Made a copy and I'll keep it with the instruction manual.

[bigmacque]

Has anybody alerted the mod's that the picture has disappeared?

[Riccardo]

Luckily I downloaded it and can repost!

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a466/btowngeorge/KahrLubePoints.jpg

[n11]

Luckily I downloaded it and can repost!
And I'll use my firs post on this forum to say thanks for doing that...very helpful.

[jocko]

n11: stick around we have alot more here to show u~!!!

[Bill K]

The two springs on my guide rod (PM9) appear to be captured. Can/should/must the springs be taken off in order to lube the guide rod?

[Bawanna]

The two springs on my guide rod (PM9) appear to be captured. Can/should/must the springs be taken off in order to lube the guide rod?

I'd say definitely NOT. That inner spring is a pain in the back side to get back on and the retainer nut shouldn't be messed with if it's tight and not working loose. Many have had them fall off at range. The gun still runs but you need to get a new one.

At most I'd just put a drop or two of oil on it thru the spring and let it go.

Most only replace the outer spring when the time comes and just leave the inner spring as is.

[jocko]

exactly what Bawanna says is the proper procedure. The outter spring on ur PM9 should slip right off..

[Iron Worker]

Met a guy out in NV desert that raved about his Kahr. All these sensitive lube points. My sig sauer p-229 doesn't require all those lube points. Its been flawless for 18 years.

[JFootin]

Yes, but your Sig isn't nearly as compact as Kahr guns, with all of the machinery occupying minimum space.

[Ressom]

I oiled parts 7 and 8 and this past weekend I disassembled my slide and there was a ton of oil in the firing pin chamber. I think I am now going to oil the corresponding contact points in the frame. And maybe use grease instead of oil.

How does that sound?

[jocko]

best keep any oil outof the striker channel. it ain't gonna rust, use that clean out hole on the bottom of the slide to clean that channel.

[MBFD]

I have a NEW PM9 and my recoil spring has NO nuts to tighten. It would seem that the inner spring that goes through the guide post should have some oil added - yes or no?

[mywytefeet]

Is it okay to skip oiling spot #7 and #8? I am new to Kahrs and this forum. I am a previous GLOCK owner but got sick of the thickness. That being said, I always stuck to the rule of never getting any oil near the firing pin. Wouldn't oiling #7 and #8 cause oil to get on the firing pin? Are oiling these parts absolutely necessary? Thanks!

[gb6491]

I use a dab of grease on those areas (alternately, you could lube the lobes on the cocking cam where they would come into contact with spots 7 and 8). That said you could probably get by without any lube on those spots, but you increase the rate of wear on three parts critical to firing the pistol.
Regards,
Greg

BTW, welcome to the forums:)

[ripley16]

Met a guy out in NV desert that raved about his Kahr. All these sensitive lube points. My sig sauer p-229 doesn't require all those lube points. Its been flawless for 18 years.

Sig recommends the entire gun be rubbed with a oily patch, so in that respect you are correct... the Kahr has points, the Sig has just one BIG point.:cool:

[deanp1964]

an older post - but I'm glad I found it.
Thank you to the OP!

[Mike1948]

I just took apart my brand new PM9 to clean and lube it. The pickup rail surface, number 9 in the lube diagram, shows a great deal of wear, like I would expect to find on a pistol that is one or two years old. Is this normal on a Kahr pistol fresh from the factory? It was not the case on any of the Glocks I have owned.

[sas PM9]

I just took apart my brand new PM9 to clean and lube it. The pickup rail surface, number 9 in the lube diagram, shows a great deal of wear, like I would expect to find on a pistol that is one or two years old. Is this normal on a Kahr pistol fresh from the factory? It was not the case on any of the Glocks I have owned.

Mike:

A brand new PM9 may have been test fired at the factory, but probably not too many rounds.
Makes me wonder about the "brand new" part.
That rail does rub over every round put through the gun, but shouldn't show much "wear".

I have probably 600 rounds through mine and after a cleaning it shows no "wear".

-steve

PS. Pictures would really help.

[pocket pistol]

Great post... Thanks.

[jocko]

I just took apart my brand new PM9 to clean and lube it. The pickup rail surface, number 9 in the lube diagram, shows a great deal of wear, like I would expect to find on a pistol that is one or two years old. Is this normal on a Kahr pistol fresh from the factory? It was not the case on any of the Glocks I have owned.

what ur seeing is that matted finish kahr puts on thier stainless slides and barrel. Your pickup rail is pure stainless, and all it doe sit move the brass casing forward. There really is no wear tere. Ur just seeing fromn the test firing that outter coating coing off. I just polished the hell out ofmy pickup rail and then I with a finger of some gun grease just rub that complete rail (nhterface bar). Ur gun is OK. My rail on y PM9 is 5 years old and 32K+ rounds thorugh it and there just is virtually no wear as stainless trumps brass as far as durability.

Ur ok, just shoot it like u stole it.

[mspiredm3]

Is it just me or is the diagram/pic in the OP not working?

[crazymailman]

Is it just me or is the diagram/pic in the OP not working?

You're right, it's not working, , but scroll down to post #7 and it's there.

[dlhamil]

I'm happy to report (as of 1/26/2012) that I have my first Kahr firearm (a CM9) and thank you too for posting this. I also checked out the other prep tips so will follow/perform all of this before heading to range.

thanks,
David

[East River Guide]

Is it okay to skip oiling spot #7 and #8? I am new to Kahrs and this forum. I am a previous GLOCK owner but got sick of the thickness. That being said, I always stuck to the rule of never getting any oil near the firing pin. Wouldn't oiling #7 and #8 cause oil to get on the firing pin? Are oiling these parts absolutely necessary? Thanks!

I think that is a good question. Glock says not to introduce any lubricants into the striker channel. In the Lenny Magill video the Kahr striker is clearly lubed and Lenny says that is a good thing. I didn't see any kind of plastic channel liner in the Kahr like the Glocks have but the reason Glock says not to oil the channel is to avoid any gunk buildup (and maybe hydraulic friction) which would seem to be applicable to any striker fired gun.

[OldLincoln]

I forgot #7 was even there, it should not be for oil. I put TW25 grease in all placwes it says "coat" and oil those saying oli EXCEPT #7. I do very lightly coat the front side of the striker tab sticking up as the cam works that. But then I also lightly coat the cams.

[Kal0348]

I just bought a CW40 yesterday, and haven't fired it yet. I want to clean and lube it correctly, and am reading some of the threads and posts in this Kahr-Tech section to learn as much as I can about taking care of this pistol.

I have other pistols by other manufacturers, and I really don't care for the way they feel in my hand. At the LGS yesterday I picked up the CW40, and I knew I had to take it home.

I know this thread is about lubing the pistols, and I've been using Hornady One Shot spray lube on my other guns, after blasting away the crud with Gunscrubbber synthetic safe spray.

Will this Hornady lube work ok on my Kahr? I printed a copy of the lube diagram here, and I want to make sure I use the right stuff on my first Kahr.

By the way, I'm having a bear of a time lining up the witness marks to remove and re-install the slide release, and I'm afraid I'm gonna shoot my eye out with the guide rod/spring when trying to re-install after maintenance. Any hints on how to put the pistol back together? My arthritic hands would be eternally grateful.;)

Thanks for your help here.

[jocko]

try ur hornady one shot spray and if it works OK in the gun then stick with it. lots of good lubes out there, so we each have our own desires but they are all better than no lube at all. I am no tn any positon to tell anyone wha tto use or not to use. If it worked in other guns, then why would it not work in a Kahr.???

The witness mark thinbg, in time u will get used to it. The guide rod spring will after a 200 rounds be alot easier to insert to. Give it some time to take it re designed set and u will be OK with it. Ur doing OK..

[JFootin]

Here's what I do to line up the takedown marks:


put a chop stick, pointed end out, between my teeth.
Using both hands to line the marks up, then lean over there and insert the pointy end between the barrel and the breech face, adjusting it up and down until the marks allign.
Use the plastic handle of a screwdriver to push the end of the slide stop pin in on the right side. (This gets easier as the gun gets broken in.)
Slide the screwdriver carefully under the slide stop to nudge it further out. (Use a piece of cloth if you worry about scratching anything.)
Pull the slide stop the rest of the way out by hand.
Grasp the gun with your finger on the trigger, pull the trigger, remove the chop stick and take the slide off by sliding it forward. (If it sticks, it is usually the cocking cams near the back that are holding it. Move the slide back a little bit and play with the trigger until the cams lay down and get out of the way. Then, it will slide right off.)

I have crippled hands. I use a rag to cushion things and to catch the recoil spring if it tries to go flying. Then, I just keep working at it until it goes in. That spring will take a set and get a little easier to handle after you have put a few boxes of ammo thru the gun.

When you are positioning the recoil spring assembly before putting it in, allign the open front end of the spring toward the barrel.

Also, when reassembling the gun be careful to follow the instructions for positioning the slide stop lever as you insert it so that the slide stop spring gets positioned correctly in the groove on top of the lever. (Hold it at 4:00 until half way in, then 3:00 and shove it the rest of the way in.)

[Kal0348]

Thanks for your help. I'm pretty sure that everything's gonna be just fine with my Kahr. All it needs is a little time and some shooting.

I'm gonna try the chop stick thing to get the witness marks in position, and I'm glad that you reminded me about the insertion of the slide stop lever at 4 o'clock for the beginning of insertion, and then at 3 o'clock to push it home.

I really need to re-read the manual carefully a second time. Some manuals of other makers' pistols have 40 pages of warnings and disclaimers, and only 3 pages of really useful information. I guess I got kind of sick and tired of all that, and just figured that no owner's manual was going to be any different. So I just stopped reading the things until I got into some trouble with something on the gun not working.

Thanks again.

[OldLincoln]

I can push my slide stop pin with my trigger finger, so I put pressure on it while racking the slide and it hangs up in the alignments holes. Then pluck the pin out from the left side with the left hand, while relieving slide pressure with the right.

John has it right about reinserting the slide stop pin. Remember the tiny nub of the spring has to go over a notch in the pin housing. If it's right, the lever will have some tension to keep it down. Also, you can see it with a light between the slide and stop lever if okay.

[Fireman489]

Ok, so Im a booger eat'n moron ......I sprayed OIL in the striker clean out hole instead of spraying cleaner in there...... I didnt realize it till AFTER I got home from the range and shot 100 rounds through it. So whats the best course of action for me now ? Should I just re-spray w the break cleaner (or any gun cleaner)? If I do that can I assume I'm "back on track" ? Gun seemed to run pretty smooth for being new....had 2 FTF's but that's it......I was shooting reloads if that makes a difference also.

Thanks
Erich

[Fireman489]

ohh forgot to mention Im shooting the PM9.....

[U.S. Patriot]

I use Weapon Shiled. It's the best lubricant I have found to date. I broke my down and did a normal clean and lube that I do on all my pistols. I had 0 issues out of the box.

[JFootin]

Yeah, blast it real good with brake cleaner. If you have an air blaster, use it to blow it out after the cleaner.

[ptoemmes]

Ok, so Im a booger eat'n moron ......I sprayed OIL in the striker clean out hole instead of spraying cleaner in there...... I didnt realize it till AFTER I got home from the range and shot 100 rounds through it. So whats the best course of action for me now ? Should I just re-spray w the break cleaner (or any gun cleaner)? If I do that can I assume I'm "back on track" ? Gun seemed to run pretty smooth for being new....had 2 FTF's but that's it......I was shooting reloads if that makes a difference also.

Thanks
Erich

I did similar during the initial prep (did not eat any boogers though) of my P45. I had light strikes in the first 200 that were probably attributed to the resultant gunky striker channel.

Now, you can do as other suggested: non chlorinated brake cleaner blast followed by air blasts, shoot another 100 or so, and if no issues you are good to go.

Or...take a deep breath, read, re-read, then re-read again the posts on stripping out the striker for a major cleaning. That's what I did and it also worked. Plus you learn a bit more about your weapon.

Pete

[Blue150]

Several years ago I couldn't find my gun grease but I had an eight ounce tube of dielectric tune up grease out in the garage so I used that. I frankly love the stuff. The only problem is it is transparent in a thin film so it's difficult to tell if you've lubed enough.

I know it doesn't dry out because that's what they use in intermittent wiper controllers and I've opened them up after thirty years and the grease, where not contaminated with thirty years of copper powder and dust, looks like it just came out of the tube. It holds up to water in my fishing reels and stays where it's put. Great stuff.

[streakpi]

Just bought my first Kahr (I'm a S&W M&P / Glock / XD owner)...looking at all the threads to get prep ideas before I hit the range next week. Thank you for putting this thread out there...easy to find...and populated by good advice. I use CLP to clean my guns and Gun Butr to lube them. I'm not an armorer...but I see plenty of "use grease" messages on here...can I simply use my Gun Butr or is the Kahr "special"? Thank you in advance!

[jocko]

use what every works for u. kahrs are no different than other guns. properlyt lubed with any luvbe is gonna be better than not at all. Nothing wrong witht he two products umentiond either. They are good, enjoy ur kahr. and welcome aboard.

[Tinman507]

Use whatever works for you. I ran my CM9 wet during breakin with grease on the rails and inside the slide where the barrel hood seats. Just avoid the striker channel.

[doc540]

It appears that I can duplicate my SlideGlide/1911 routine on our new Kahrs.
http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html

Run'em wet, shoot'em hot

[david8613]

I'm not new to guns but in these parts i am, im reading all this kahr info. it is great for a new kahr owner like myself, its appreciated. my pm 9 was super tight even though it was used between 200 to 300 rounds, I have done the clean, lubed with just oil and racked the slide a whole bunch of times as suggested on this forum but she still feels tight, so today I broke it down again, cleaned her again but this time I used hoppes grease with oil, much better the slide is moving easier now, it seems to me kahrs like grease... i can't wait to take this puppy out for nice a walk...

[streakpi]

I'm not new to guns but in these parts i am, im reading all this kahr info. it is great for a new kahr owner like myself, its appreciated. my pm 9 was super tight even though it was used between 200 to 300 rounds, I have done the clean, lubed with just oil and racked the slide a whole bunch of times as suggested on this forum but she still feels tight, so today I broke it down again, cleaned her again but this time I used hoppes grease with oil, much better the slide is moving easier now, it seems to me kahrs like grease... i can't wait to take this puppy out for nice a walk...

Did you use the Hoppes #9 Gun Grease or something different by them...gotta get some oil this week.

[OldLincoln]

That's what I keep telling folks but the experts don't always agree. One thing to keep in mind is to ignore lube point 7. You should run the striker assembly dry.

[jocko]

mIL-COMM.COM FOR tw25 GREASE IN A SYRINGE.great stuff. Won'trun and with the syringe u can lay a line of TRW25 right dewoninsid eth slide rails without making anymess.

[pitandkahr]

That's what I keep telling folks but the experts don't always agree. One thing to keep in mind is to ignore lube point 7. You should run the striker assembly dry.

Actually, glad I saw this part...I was doing the drop of oil on point 7...I guess I missed that from the previous ton of posts...LOL :D

[david8613]

Did you use the Hoppes #9 Gun Grease or something different by them...gotta get some oil this week.

yep thats what I used, big difference compared to just oil alone, I use ballistol oil, which is pretty good it's thick, but my pm9 likes grease. it's so much smoother now and easier to rack, less resistance even though you can still feel there is a very powerful spring in there.

[pitandkahr]

Mine like Tetra Gun Grease. Actually all of my guns like that stuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dustypuddle]

Johna I want to really thank you for the lubeing of the gun.I'm a new cm9 owner and have 300 plus rounds and this was the first guide to get me to do it right.
Thanks again

[Gangplank]

Hmmf... Just picked up a used TP9. Didn't come with the manual. It was fairly dry and a bit dirty so I sat down today and did a field strip and cleaning.

Read some here, and I looked at the lube diagram and watched a couple vids online. I guess I didn't see the part about not oiling the striker parts until after spraying everything down with remoil to clean it. Let things sit to soak and wiped it all down really well. I used a thin layer of gun lube grease on the places listed on the pic. put it together and worked the slide and trigger a few times. Took it back apart and wiped it all down again to remove excess grease.

So my question now is should I shoot it in its current condition or break it down and use break cleaner on the striker channel and/or the trigger guts first? A friend who shoots berettas said he runs his guns on tge wetter side. Are Kahrs meant to run on the dry side except the rails?

[Gangplank]

By the way I use CLP break free on inside of the barrel. Everywhere else gets Remoil and lube points get Montana extreme gun grease.

[Gangplank]

Just read the Kahr manual online:

Cleaning & Lubrication
Before the initial shooting of the new KAHR Pistol, the pistol should be disassembled following the instructions in this manual and cleaned with a commercial gun cleaning solvent. After each shooting session, the cleaning process should be repeated to remove firing residue from the inside and outside of the Barrel, Slide, Frame and Magazine.

Once cleaned, all parts should be lightly lubricated with a commercial gun lubricant. Follow solvent and lubricant manufacturer’s instructions.

The handgun should be kept clean and properly lubricated at all times. Lubricants can evaporate over time. Therefore, lightly lubricate the hand- gun once a month whether or not it has been fired. Be sure your handgun is FULLY UNLOADED (Magazine removed and chamber empty) before performing any cleaning or main- tenance.

[skiflydive]

Hmmf... Just picked up a used TP9. Didn't come with the manual. It was fairly dry and a bit dirty so I sat down today and did a field strip and cleaning.

Read some here, and I looked at the lube diagram and watched a couple vids online. I guess I didn't see the part about not oiling the striker parts until after spraying everything down with remoil to clean it. Let things sit to soak and wiped it all down really well. I used a thin layer of gun lube grease on the places listed on the pic. put it together and worked the slide and trigger a few times. Took it back apart and wiped it all down again to remove excess grease.

So my question now is should I shoot it in its current condition or break it down and use break cleaner on the striker channel and/or the trigger guts first? A friend who shoots berettas said he runs his guns on tge wetter side. Are Kahrs meant to run on the dry side except the rails?

I'd blow out the striker channel with brake cleaner and leave the rest alone until the next cleaning if it were me.

[Gangplank]

I was thinking the same. A short blast but where exactly to spray it? Watched the detail strip video just now. Whoa that's a lot of small parts in a crammed area.

[skiflydive]

I was thinking the same. A short blast but where exactly to spray it? Watched the detail strip video just now. Whoa that's a lot of small parts in a crammed area.

In the picture of the lube points you posted earlier, pull 7 back as far as you can with a fingernail and using the tube that comes with the brake cleaner give it a good squirt in the striker hole in the breech face and the hole by the lower arrow for # 9

[EssArTee4]

So i had a few questions on this thread, updated the original photo with my questions for easier clarification.

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb439/Essartee4/KahrLubePoints2_zpsc21d9ffe.jpg

[wyntrout]

DON'T spray any lube into the hole in the underside of the slide. This attracts debris from firing and can cause the striker pin to not move freely enough to fire the primer.

Pulling the striker back while spraying the NON-CHLORINATED Brake cleaner through the hole and the striker pin hole in the breech face allows some of the possible debris to be blown out the back. The striker should remain free of lubricant.

The two rear tabs on the frame at the rear rails and a little grease or oil there is nice. The polymer rails are just guides and need no lubricant. There is some "wearing in" and possible buildup there of plastic that might need careful trimming.

The front rails are embedded in the frame and should be lightly greased or lubed. I place a bead of Tetra grease in the grooves on the front of the slide to rub off onto the rails, too.

Wynn:)

[XDGenerate]

These are all my favorite lube-spots on any pistol! Thanks for the diagram.

[ozkahr]

A search has not turned up an answer to this question.

The Kahr Lube Diagram shows to lubricate the two anterior guide rails (points #10). That's great on the PM9 shown. But the MK9 doesn't have those rails.

Should one just skip lube points #10, or is there another area on the frame that should be lubed in place of those anterior guide rails?

Maybe I'm over-thinking this. but I would rather ask a stupid question than damage my MK9.

Thanks for the help.

[man1nboat]

I use very little oil and a rust preventative spray

[dgunnut01]

It looks like the diagram is no longer available in through the link. Can anyone post this for a new to be Kahr owner?

[b4uqzme]

^^^ darn that photobucket!

[b4uqzme]

Here ya go.

[dgunnut01]

Here ya go.

Thank you sir!

[oldjarhead]

Would Enos "slide glide " light red grease be okay on the slide rails, and the two frame rails in the lower part?

[Bawanna]

It's fine and dandy to me, I use grease on my rails. I was using TW25 but couldn't find it for awhile so using something else, can't remember.

Light grease being the magic word I guess.

[Vinikahr]

Ahhh, an older post glad I look around to refresh my memory. :target: