K9 stainless finish, resistance to the elements?

[andy_760901]

Hey guys.

Just curious as to how the stainless version of the K9 holds up against sweat and everyday carry?
I am used to glocks where it is not really a concern. The walther pps finish also seems to hold up well.

How have your K9's faired with regular carry. Has anyone refinished theirs. And if so what coating or process did you use. Or perhaps it is not neccesary?

I will want to carry my K9 and a good resistant finish is almost a prerequisite for this for me...
Gun will ride in a leather IWB Milt Sparks Versa Max 2, which has a body shield.
Please share your experiance ?

[Ed M]

Don't own a K9, but I sometimes carry an MK9. Identical, materials - wise.

I've had zero problems with rust, but I use a very good CLP that does well in corrosion protection tests (FrogLube).

Some people hate the stuff, but I've been using it for over 5 years now with zero problems. My Kahrs really seem to like it, and they show little to no wear.

I see no need to switch to something else when what I'm doing, and how I use it works so well.

Pick something that scores high in corrosion prevention tests, use it regularly when wiping your gun down after carrying it, and you should be fine.

Make sure you take the grip panels off occasionally to check for corrosion, and wipe under them, and inside the mag well.

Here's a decent article on corrosion preventing lubricants:

http://www.guncleaningtips.com/the-best-gun-clps-corrosion-and-lubrication-tests/

[Cokeman]

My MK9 has never had a problem either. It’s my most carried.

[finpro]

Neither my K9 nor my previous MK9 and MK40 have ever shown problems from carry. A carry weapon should be inspected regularly. Being stainless, I doubt you would ever have a surface problem that could not be remedied by appropriate cleaning.

[Bawanna]

Rust is neglect. Use motor oil off your dipstick, it'll work just fine. The point is as finpro so eloquently nailed, inspect regularly.

Glad that Frog LUbe is working for you Ed. I've never used it on any of my guns. (praise the lord). A few officers here including one detective who I think used it on every gun he had, plus the door hinges on his car and the screen door on the back of his house solved that for me.

Most guns including his high end sniper rifle became sluggish. His hunting shotgun refused to discharge first round but did fire the second time and he got the bird.
Spent a lot of time cleaning that stuff out of all his guns. I'll use super glue before I touch that stuff.

I don't understand it. He did every thing by the book, got the pre frog lube kit. Warmed the parts as they suggest. Applied, let it set, everything they said.
Must have to live in areas where it never gets below 75 degrees or something.

I've heard many just sing the praises of it, but far more who found that it turned adhesive. Oh well, that's my view on Frog LUbe.

[berettabone]

I use a Pachmayr grip sleeve on my MK, and pocket carry it for the most part. I did notice a while back, when removing the grips for cleaning, a couple of small spots of orange. I now keep a super thin film of oil underneath the grips. I don't think it will become an issue.

[Ed M]

Colonel - I sort of remember you saying that detective used other lubes in conjunction with FrogLube. That's a definite no no. FrogLube mixed with petroleum based lubes makes a sticky brown goo that really mucks things up. If you use FrogLube, you have to resist the urge to use ANY other lube or petroleum solvent on that gun. No Hoppes #9, no grease - nothing but FrogLube.

Also, you have to really strip any previously used lube out of the gun COMPLETELY. The non-chorinated brake cleaner many of us use for our Kahrs does this better than anything else. FrogLube solvent pretty much sucks unless you use an ultrasonic cleaner.

There also was a formula change for FrogLube about 5 years ago. The original paste formulation hardened up to a solid form at room temperature. I could see this being a problem at sub-zero temps if it was applied in excess.

The new paste formula isn't much thicker than the liquid formulation of FrogLube now. I only use the paste formula for the initial treatment, and wipe off any remainder after everything cools down. Thereafter, I only use the liquid as one would use any other CLP. I run my Kahrs fairly wet, and have never had an issue with anything gumming up in extreme cold. It gets pretty chilly in Pennsyltucky in the winter too.

I don't usually leave my guns locked in my car "safe", but sometimes have no choice where carrying isn't legal (ie courthouse), or when travelling to a shooting range. Never a problem, even when carrying my range bags/guns in the back of my truck under a tonneau cover.

I have no reason to sing the praises of any gun cleaning product. If it gave me problems, I'd ditch it in a heartbeat. I just say what works for me, and so far, FrogLube has performed perfectly in the manner I use it. None of my frogs rust or squeak. ;)

[Bawanna]

That's what I don't understand. This guy is extremely obsessive compulsive. He reads and researches and does his homework when he's not rearranging the pencils in his pencil drawer.

Originally he wanted to try it specifically for our new motorcycle cops. Wanted to treat their glocks with it being out in the rain and cold all the time.

Followed the directions to the letter. Others have good luck with the stuff but I know a few here on the forum that had the same results he had.

I didn't realize he'd done most all his guns, sniper rifle, work and hunting shotgun.
He did his Colt Rail Gun 45 1911. I spent hours cleaning the stuff out of it. He even put it on the safety plunger spring and tube. He's compulsive.

All sticky and gooey. Far as I know he used the liquid after the initial application. I'll ask again tomorrow, maybe he was using other stuff.

His thought was maybe it was ok for people that clean their guns all the time but not to leave them for any length of time.

Haven't figured it out yet.

[ripley16]

Eezox, a dry lube and decent cleaner, has been shown to prevent rust very well. I use it on all of my guns, so far with great results. It's simple and inexpensive to apply each time you clean your pistol.

[RonW]

I've daily carried my K9 for two yrs now and it looks the same as the day I got it. Now IMHO, I feel as far as lubes go, many ppl over think it. I've been using Rem-oil since the 80's and NONE of my firearms show any rust or abnormal wear & tear.

[Bawanna]

RonW gets the BINGO for today! I have guys here that want to jump on every new trend that comes down the pike.

The old stuff works and has done so for a long long time. The trick is to use it once in awhile. Inspect, clean and lube once in awhile even if you don't shoot.

I took enough lint and junk out of a deputies little Walther PPK he used for a back up in an ankle holster to knit a pair of lederhosen. He couldn't figure out why it didn't run smooth.

Over thinking seems to be a trend these days, like political correctness. Leave my statues alone!!!

[berettabone]

Over the years I've used Rem oil, Hoppes oil, Singer sewing machine oil, and a bit of white grease. It's all good. I wish I had a stake in all of the expensive lubes for handguns. I'd be rich for sure, and I've never seen any of them work as well as plain old oil.

[kenemoore]

I am with the Colonel, if you clean lube often. What you use doesn't matter a whole lot.

My dad used 3n1 oil on all his firearms. He only had 4, and he used them often. Never had a speck of rust or a malfunction.
Me, myself, I use Super Lube grease, and Royal Purple Synthetic ATF. No problems. I have friends that swear by other stuff.

So...I think..it really doesn't matter. Shoot'em, clean'm, and lube 'um. Repeat often, no problems.