CM9 rear slide plate removal

[drw]

I bought a used CM9 slide and could not get the back plate off to clean the firing pin channel. I could not get the rod in the small extractor hole to push down to remove the back plate. I assumed the extractor hole was clogged with dirt so I soaked the whole slide in mineral spirits over night. Still could not get the pin to depress to remove the back plate. I then pushed the front extractor pin back into the hole and removed the extractor. I then removed the front extractor pin but the spring would not come out. I finally shot penetrating oil into the hole tapped the slide on a block of wood and he spring came out. The rear plate came out but there was no rear extractor pin in the hole. I assumed someone removed it and never replaced it. When I had my small punch in the hole, it was going into the spring and not depressing it. I am going to have to buy the new rear extractor pin.

[yqtszhj]

Could be the person before you lost it. I can't remember if the front or rear pin is the smallest.

Just out of curiosity, did you have any fail to extract issues with that pin missing?

[drw]

Could be the person before you lost it. I can't remember if the front or rear pin is the smallest.

Just out of curiosity, did you have any fail to extract issues with that pin missing?


I have never used the slide. It is the smaller pin at the back under the back plate that is missing.
I bought the slide to shoot cast lead bullets and have not used it as of yet.

[Bobshouse]

It's that rear extractor rod that holds the backplate on. You say that you removed the extractor first somehow, before removing the backplate?

[finpro]

I have never done this, but, out of curiosity, I tried to move the pin holding the extractor rearward by inserting a tiny screwdriver between the pin and the extractor. While I did not remove the extractor, it was clearly so easy that it would not have been difficult. This might be a good alternative way to remove the back plate, if some problem arose.

[drw]

It's that rear extractor rod that holds the backplate on. You say that you removed the extractor first somehow, before removing the backplate?

Yes, I did remover the extractor before taking off the back plate. Just push the front extractor pin up into the channel and flip the extractor out.......and I did not have any upper extractor pin in the hole....just the spring and the lower larger extractor rod.

I did use the ripley coat hanger spring detent to hold the striker rod/spring in place while I was trying to punch the extractor pin from under the back plate.

[Bawanna]

I have never done this, but, out of curiosity, I tried to move the pin holding the extractor rearward by inserting a tiny screwdriver between the pin and the extractor. While I did not remove the extractor, it was clearly so easy that it would not have been difficult. This might be a good alternative way to remove the back plate, if some problem arose.

I had that exact same thought. That would take all the pressure off the extractor chain. Still have to catch the striker but that would be much easier as you wouldn't have to focus so much on pushing the pin down to slide the cover off.
We'd best patent this procedure right quick, might be onto something.

[gb6491]

..... I am going to have to buy the new rear extractor pin.
If you have the tools (a measuring device, a file and a Dremel tool...possibly a 1/8" drill bit) it wouldn't be difficult to make one.
The rear pin from my CW9 measures .126" in diameter and .453" in length. The pin is slightly chamfered on both ends.
https://s1.postimg.org/403ex7w5lb/pin.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
An 1/8 drill bit measures .125" in diameter. I found a Dremel bit with a shaft that has a .126" diameter. Once cut to length, I believe either would make a satisfactory replacement for the rear extractor pin. A chamfer could be done on the cut ends by putting the piece in the Dremel tool's chuck and filing the bevel as the piece turns. Slightly rounding the edges would probably be just as effective as a chamfer.
Regards,
Greg

[yqtszhj]

I had that exact same thought. That would take all the pressure off the extractor chain. Still have to catch the striker but that would be much easier as you wouldn't have to focus so much on pushing the pin down to slide the cover off.
We'd best patent this procedure right quick, might be onto something.

Now known as the "drw Process".

hows that sound?

[yqtszhj]

If you have the tools (a measuring device, a file and a Dremel tool...possibly a 1/8" drill bit) it wouldn't be difficult to make one.
The rear pin from my CW9 measures .126" in diameter and .453" in length. The pin is slightly chamfered on both ends.
https://s1.postimg.org/403ex7w5lb/pin.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
An 1/8 drill bit measures .125" in diameter. I found a Dremel bit with a shaft that has a .126" diameter. Once cut to length, I believe either would make a satisfactory replacement for the rear extractor pin. A chamfer could be done on the cut ends by putting the piece in the Dremel tool's chuck and filing the bevel as the piece turns. Slightly rounding the edges would probably be just as effective as a chamfer.
Regards,
Greg

Greg never ceases to amaze me. Thats a nifty, fast, and money saving idea.

[Bawanna]

I'll second that. That's an incredible smart solution.
I got a whole drawer full of used up dremel bits.

[drw]

Thanks for the info Greg. I ordered two from Kahr yesterday as I needed to order some recoil springs and a few other parts.

[skiflydive]

If you have the tools (a measuring device, a file and a Dremel tool...possibly a 1/8" drill bit) it wouldn't be difficult to make one.
The rear pin from my CW9 measures .126" in diameter and .453" in length. The pin is slightly chamfered on both ends.

An 1/8 drill bit measures .125" in diameter. I found a Dremel bit with a shaft that has a .126" diameter. Once cut to length, I believe either would make a satisfactory replacement for the rear extractor pin. A chamfer could be done on the cut ends by putting the piece in the Dremel tool's chuck and filing the bevel as the piece turns. Slightly rounding the edges would probably be just as effective as a chamfer.
Regards,
Greg

There's a potential issue with this though. In my P380 the total stack of the back pin, the spring, and the front pin is 1.878" (with no compression of the spring.) The total in my CW380 is 1.913. Not much difference BUT, in the P the back pin is .520" and the CW it's .439. The spring is .648 in the P and .764 in the CW. I'm wondering if it makes sense to cut the back pin length to make the total stack something in that 1.878-1.913 range? BTW I was having extractor issues in the CW380 and reduced the back pin length .020 to reduce the spring tension a little. It runs fine now.

[gb6491]

There's a potential issue with this though. In my P380 the total stack of the back pin, the spring, and the front pin is 1.878" (with no compression of the spring.) The total in my CW380 is 1.913. Not much difference BUT, in the P the back pin is .520" and the CW it's .439. The spring is .648 in the P and .764 in the CW. I'm wondering if it makes sense to cut the back pin length to make the total stack something in that 1.878-1.913 range? BTW I was having extractor issues in the CW380 and reduced the back pin length .020 to reduce the spring tension a little. It runs fine now.
skiflydive,
It's good that you brought that up :)
I remember a member writing that he had done as you have, shortening the rear pin, to get his CW45 working correctly.
By making your own rear pins: you can experiment to see what works best in your own particular pistol.
Regards,
Greg

[drw]

skiflydive,
It's good that you brought that up :)
I remember a member writing that he had done as you have, shortening the rear pin, to get his CW45 working correctly.
By making your own rear pins: you can experiment to see what works best in your own particular pistol.
Regards,
Greg

I never thought of this.....I have been experimenting with filing the extractor.....will give this a try... thanks

[zuidema16]

Ok I tried removing the extractor then the pin and the spring.
That went well however the pin in the back plate will not move.
Lite tapping does no good...am I screwed? Used cm9 functions
Perfect or did.

[topgun1953]

If you are trying to depress the pin through the opening in the back plate, look closely at the opening. The hole that extends to the pin is smaller than the opening in the plate. Greg posted some pictures around here somewhere.

[gb6491]

If you are trying to depress the pin through the opening in the back plate, look closely at the opening. The hole that extends to the pin is smaller than the opening in the plate. Greg posted some pictures around here somewhere.
Thanks for remembering that Topgun1953!
http://i61.tinypic.com/i77wv7.jpg
Regards,
Greg

[yqtszhj]

I want to be Greg when I grow up. Live near the desert, have a cool old jeep, be a master tinkerer, and the ability to post a pictorial explanation at the speed of a bullet.