Kahr K9 question....

[Armorer327]

A little while back I purchased a used K9 S/N BF18XX, with the box and spare magazine. Model number on the box says #K909NC. Trigger feels like it has a lot of travel when compared to my K9 Stainless and my P9. From what I understand this is a K9 with NYPD trigger in it. If this is so, does Kahr still do the Elite trigger modification?

Also is there any way to tell if a K9 from that timeframe was an NYPD issue firearm? Just curious....

[Old No7]

......From what I understand this is a K9 with NYPD trigger in it. If this is so, does Kahr still do the Elite trigger modification?

I believe they still do; you'd have to call to get a quote on shipping, labor and parts. I did mine myself, bought the parts needed for < $30 and with the use of a larger hammer, I finally got the trigger pin to move without scratching the frame. Search back a'ways for my posting about that, as it shows the parts you would need to replace. I will say the Elite trigger is MUCH better than the original NYPD version, and I'm glad I did the conversion.


Also is there any way to tell if a K9 from that timeframe was an NYPD issue firearm? Just curious....

Not that I ever heard/read, but the looooooooooong trigger pull is a clue that it was a possible candidate. One of many, I'm sure...

Old No7

[Armorer327]

Ordered the trigger parts to change out the trigger, we'll see how that goes.....will use a good ball-peen hammer to remove the trigger pin......thanks for the info!

[ripley16]

The price for a trigger conversion used to be $125 plus shipping. Can't find it on their new parts web pages. I've got a K9093NAC, serial number BF 127X, that has an elite trigger upgrade done at the factory. Bought it used in 2009 when the standard K9 trigger was the long pull and only the "Elite" model had the short pull.

[BirdsThaWord]

I highly recommend a cheap press. I got Harbor Freight’ little one. Takes a gazillion pounds to get that pin out. Polish that pin before you go to reinstall it for a bit of an easier time. You can mount the pin in a dremel or drill, as if it was the bit or dremel tip, then wrap polishing cloth around it and let it spin!
While I did not do that trigger job on mine, I will most likely at some point. From what I remember, the removal of some metal at the trigger bar/frame interface is about the toughest, most tedious part of the job. Not looking forward to cutting/shaping/polishing that area with my limited tools! :o

[finpro]

I highly recommend a cheap press. I got Harbor Freight’ little one. Takes a gazillion pounds to get that pin out. Polish that pin before you go to reinstall it for a bit of an easier time. You can mount the pin in a dremel or drill, as if it was the bit or dremel tip, then wrap polishing cloth around it and let it spin!
While I did not do that trigger job on mine, I will most likely at some point. From what I remember, the removal of some metal at the trigger bar/frame interface is about the toughest, most tedious part of the job. Not looking forward to cutting/shaping/polishing that area with my limited tools! :o

I agree with your suggestion of polishing round parts with a drill or Dremel. I have done this numerous times using 2000 grit sand paper and it is completed in seconds leaving a highly polished surface. It is especially good for spring guide rods.

I am not sure exactly what you refer to regarding the "trigger bar/frame interface", but I have had good results by simply removing the trigger bar spring and inserting folded sand paper,with grit side out, between the trigger bar and frame and working the trigger. It is also a good practice to polish the bottom of the trigger bar where its spring rides and to polish any part of the spring that contacts the bar. This requires no more disassembly than removing the slide and trigger bar spring.

[Old No7]

Ordered the trigger parts to change out the trigger, we'll see how that goes.....will use a good ball-peen hammer to remove the trigger pin......thanks for the info!

Here's a few tips...

* Put a layer of blue painters tape on the sides of the frame to protect it when clamped to the bench.

* Use a padded clamp to secure the K9 to the bench (solid wood or a bench block) and be sure there's a hole in block or bench for the pin to go into.

* Clamping it ensures it doesn't bounce, and frees up 1 hand to securely hold the punch on the pin -- with the hammer in other hand.

* Lay down 8 to 10 small strips of masking tape in a "#" pattern, build up the "#" one layer at a time -- leaving a small opening just the size of your punch in the middle of the "#" pattern of tape -- which is centered over the trigger pin.

* Then add some more blue tape for 2" around that # you made -- what you now have is a small "dam" that should help keep the punch from slipping and marring your K9.

( Yeah, I was overprotective when I did all the above -- but I did NOT scratch my gun ! )

( And all that assumes you don't have a press to use... )

* Used a big enough hammer and hit it solidly... My pin was a bugger to remove, until I got it started, then it was OK...

Good luck!

Let us know how this turns our for you -- I'll bet you will be really pleased.

Old No7

[Armorer327]

Thanks for the advice Old No7! Parts arrived from Kahr in a matter of days (that’s saying a lot since I live in Alaska). Install only took me 10 minutes......too easy. Trigger pull is much better now!

[Old No7]

Thanks for the advice Old No7! Parts arrived from Kahr in a matter of days (that’s saying a lot since I live in Alaska). Install only took me 10 minutes......too easy. Trigger pull is much better now!

Congrats -- good for you!

Tight groups.

Old No7

[BirdsThaWord]

I agree with your suggestion of polishing round parts with a drill or Dremel. I have done this numerous times using 2000 grit sand paper and it is completed in seconds leaving a highly polished surface. It is especially good for spring guide rods.

I am not sure exactly what you refer to regarding the "trigger bar/frame interface", but I have had good results by simply removing the trigger bar spring and inserting folded sand paper,with grit side out, between the trigger bar and frame and working the trigger. It is also a good practice to polish the bottom of the trigger bar where its spring rides and to polish any part of the spring that contacts the bar. This requires no more disassembly than removing the slide and trigger bar spring.
I had seen a post (maybe on here) where someone explained how to do the trigger upgrade. In the attached pic, you can see a part of the frame that is shaped like a piece of pie, just forward of the trigger bar reset “hump”. I beleive that area must be cut/reduced to fit the new trigger bar. I will have to do more research before I attempt to do it, but I will eventually. I agree with you on polishing those areas. I used a pencil with an eraser, and little peices of sandpaper, then polishing cloth to get in there. I also polished the outside of that hump, as it rides against the grip.