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View Full Version : list of tools needed for detail strip of slide, please



hedgehog
09-06-2010, 02:35 PM
thanks!

wyntrout
09-06-2010, 02:46 PM
Okay here is the real deal... the pdf file over at GlockTalk:

for this: File Type: pdf Kahr Detail Strip Slide Assembly.pdf (790.3 KB, 1668 views)

go here and download!

http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=308824&page=3

I've made some posts and have more pictures. I'll try to add those here, shortly.

Wynn:)

wyntrout
09-06-2010, 02:59 PM
Here are my pictures. I have some text or instructions that are handy, as soon as I run those down.

Here's the post with my tips and experience with stripping the slide:

http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=3295&highlight=strip+slide (http://kahrtalk.com/p-cw-series-pistols/3075-p380-light-primer-strike.html#post32968)

I took my P380 and PM45 slides apart last night for the first time. It's easy with the instructions on this forum and there's a link to a pdf file on GlockTalk.
Make the "C" clamp out of a coat hanger and
put the long arm in front of the striker hole/breech face while compressing the striker spring and guide with a screwdriver,
then slip the small end of the clamp over the guide's head to hold the assembly in while getting the back plate off.

Use a small jeweler screw driver to push the back plate pin for removal. It takes something stout.

Just watch those little parts -- the striker spring and guide, AND the extractor parts -- there are four parts to the extractor assembly, including the pin in the back that holds the back plate on, after that, moving forward in the extractor "tunnel", is the spring, then the tension pin with different ends that presses against the ejector. Check out the diagram and see how those things go together.

The ejector rotates in and forward for removal. The other three parts are put in from the rear hole with the slant cut on the extractors pin against the extractor. The striker safety block has to be in place before sticking those extractor parts back in. There's a cutout or notch on the outside of the safety block for the extractor parts to get by the block. The extractor train then holds the safety block in place.

This is probably more than you wanted for now, but I just did this and had a bit of fun thinking I had vacuumed some of the ejector parts up while using it to suck the debris from the slide -- not a good idea. The extractor fell and I heard it and found it using an extension magnet pickup tool, but I thought the other stuff was in the vacuum, so I cut open the bag and went through it carefully with strong magnets, without success, so I checked the slide and the rear three parts were still inside the channel or tunnel.
I straightened a large paperclip and used that to poke those out from the front to the rear. Assemble those three parts from the rear, after the extractor is in place and the striker safety block is in place, with the slanted end of the pin inward to rest on the extractor correctly.

I used 400-grit sandpaper -- the finest I had on hand -- to lightly go over the striker and check for any burrs or sharp edges, and then polished them with a Dremel-Like Tool (DLT).

Once you've done this successfully it's no longer a scary operation... with regard to the little parts. I thought that I would never do that, but I was having problems with possible light strikes in the PM45. It could have been the ammo, though. But I removed suspicions by checking those striker parts and it's housing carefully for debris or burrs.


Wynn:D

ripley16
09-06-2010, 03:53 PM
Like Wynn, I use a jeweler's srewdriver and the homemade gizmo to capture and hold the guide rod and spring. Wear eye protection. The tiny screwdriver does two things...it pulls the guide rod forward enough to slip the gizmo between the back plate and the guide rod and it is used to depress the spring in the extractor assembly to release the back plate. The gizmo works well in disassembly and makes reassembly a snap.

First, the two tools. Next, the gizmo in action. If your guide rod has the little rubber gasket on the end, just toss it. It is impossible to put back on. I wonder how Kahr does it.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/ripley16/Kahrtool002.jpghttp://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/ripley16/Kahrtool001.jpg

wyntrout
09-06-2010, 04:00 PM
Dang! It took about an hour to round up all of my stuff. I'm making bookmarks so that I don't have to work so hard! I used about the tiniest jeweler's screw driver to push the outer part of the backplate retaining pin in. It has to be small enough and sturdy enough for the job. The largest screwdriver in the jeweler set was good for depressing the striker guide and spring... only 4 tools: large paperclip, piece of "custom-fashioned" coat hanger, and the two screwdrivers... piece of cake! :D <sproing!!> Oh, sh*t!

Wynn:D

ripley16
09-06-2010, 04:46 PM
... only 4 tools: large paperclip, piece of "custom-fashioned" coat hanger, and the two screwdrivers...
Wynn:D

What's the paper clip for?

wyntrout
09-06-2010, 05:54 PM
I used that to poke the extractor pin/spring/pin out from front to the rear. I thought that I had lost some stuff.:D
Pliers help with the "C" clamp, too.
Wynn:)

hedgehog
09-06-2010, 06:33 PM
why is the coat hanger bent in two places ? im not sure I understand the bend at the breech face area

oh i think i get it now. I've seen some people place the slide stop lever in there as well.

hedgehog
09-06-2010, 06:35 PM
400 grit seems very coarse for that, I think I would start with 800 and go up to 2000, then polish

wyntrout
09-06-2010, 06:37 PM
When you're making it and after the first use, it's pretty obvious. To start, you want the long end just in front of the breech face by a quarter inch or so. Then after you pry the guide and spring down far enough to push the other end in on top of the guide, you just push down on the "elbow" at the top of the long arm and it pulls the guide and spring down and holds them in place.
Oh, you need one for each size gun, if you hadn't figured that out, but one coat hanger is a small sacrifice.:D

400 grit?
Well, shoot, that's what I had on hand. I was mainly using it to feel for any drag. I didn't get carried away sanding... that's what the DLT is for... polishing, anyhow. Now I have up to 1,200 grit on hand, but it's kind of slow at removing stuff.:D
Wynn:)