a couple gunsmithing/metalworking questions

[hedgehog]

who can perform checkering to my T9 ? Im liking the "golf ball" or "lizard scale" checkering. Im aware roger's precision does it, but hes not taking any new orders. I have access to a milling machine, how difficult is this type of procedure?

also, what's typical used to "melt" or "round" a slide and frame? I feel like with the right tools I could definitely accomplish this, I worked in autobody for a few years and I'm aware its a totally different thing, but I feel I have a knack for it.

If anyone can chime in here, I would appreciate it.

[HotRod31]

DISCLAIMER.....I AM NOT A GUNSMITH, JUST A HOBBYIST

I use flap disc (avalible at Home Depot etc.)on a 4-1/2" grinder for heavy removal,follow up with hand files & sandpaper rolls on a die grinder,& finish with 800 grit sand paper or scotch brite pad, then polish if you like. Just go slow, if you have body shop experiance you should be OK.

Later, Mark

[hedgehog]

thats what i figured hot-rod. but this seems to be some huge secret or something. I've asked on several forums and NO ONE seems to know how this action occurs.

[Bawanna]

I think mostly it's fear of taking a grinder to your shiney new gun that you just paid big bucks for. There's a certain piece of mind in sending it to someone who allegedly has experience in grinding on shiney new guns.
I use to be this way alot myself. I've found that a little research and some serious thinking (thats the painful part for me) makes lots of things possible to do ourselves.
Obviously the guys that do it all the time and have all the right tools and stuff get it done faster and perhaps even better but what one man can do another can do. Given enough time and pieces to work on.
I too am in search of a front strap checkering or stipple. I've come close to giving it a whirl but I'm still in the heavy research and thinking mode on that.

[jlottmc]

Your auto body finish experience will serve you well. Just go slow like the other poster said. If you're like me, then use a machine whenever possible. I tend to be rather heavy handed.

[hedgehog]

honestly I was just thinking about using my CP mini d/a sander starting around 180 grit and then slowly sanding out all my scratches at the end using progressively finer paper, then having it sent someone to be bead-blasted so it will once again have the "matte" finish.

I ain't skurred. I wast just kinda looking to get as much info as possible for partaking on such a journey.

[Bawanna]

Your doin your homework and making a plan. No need to be skured. I usually am but sometimes I gotta do what I gotta do.
I think your plan will work.
I'm building up my courage to do a Copper & Black polish job on my PM45. I think I can, I think I can, I think I can. Maybe not as good as him but we'll give er a go none the less.

[hedgehog]

found this today guys:
Blindhogg custom gunworks (http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmith/dehorning.html) has a few pics

[HotRod31]

Here's a couple pic's of my K9 mods.

Pic #1 I like the tapererd slide of the cw's. I think it makes holstering easier,& looks better IMO. Also melted the frame a little

Pic #2 the pronounced corners on the rear or the frame was uncomfortable on my thumb knuckle so I rounded them

It is sort of a work in progress I'll show the best mod when my grips come in.

Later, Mark

[hedgehog]

You, Mark, are a modern-day miracle

My t9 has a super square and pointy slide, it's almost sharp in the front. Do i have to use a file or can i start with this "emery paper" (i've never used it before in bodywork)

any tips of technique or what grits to use ?

[HotRod31]

I started with 80 grit flapdisc (these disc cut fast, I suggest you practice with some scrap) & worked my way down from there.The file helps keep it flat. You can use a DA sander if that is what you have. I carry this gun so I am not worried about small scratches or polishing it, I went over it with a scotch brite pad when I was finished. I also beveled my mag well, here is a crappy pic.

Later, Mark

[hedgehog]

i was thinkin about the mag well idea too. which color scotch pad(s) ? does the scotch pad bring it bacl to a matte finish? is it very obvious where you've worked on it?

[HotRod31]

I used some maroon pads that I had laying around (was using to scuff some paint pryer to painting) If you spend enuff time on it you can blend it in so it is not noticeable. To get a true matte finish it would need to be blasted, but repeated holstering would probably polish some of it back out?

Later, Mark